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Originally Posted by prabuddhadg Hey Doc, my answer to that will surely end up being biased. I have spent so many years on drop handlebars and so little time on flat straight handlebars, that whenever I now try out MTB's or basic straight bars, I feel extremely uncomfortable.
Having said that, I would argue that on one hand with a straight bar, you have a few different positions on a straight bar to hold on to, basically to provide some variations to your palms and wrists. On the other hand, the bull horn bar gives you four positions, the ends of the bars where the brakes are fitted, the portions of the bar parallel to your bike frame, the curves where your palms can rest and the straight portion on two sides of the stem.
Of course, with bar end extenders a straight bar can offer more variations.
On rough terrain, a wide bar may be better for minute steering control. In heavy traffic, a narrow bar will get through more gaps.
By the way, the bull horns that I use (Deda make) are shaped like the top of the drop handlebar combined with the brake hoods. I had once considered cutting up a drop bar to make bull horns, but that created a bigger curve. Not a dealbreaker, of course, just a matter of personal preference. Even I love tinkering with my bicycles. |
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Originally Posted by graaja The narrower drop bars have an advantage. The narrow width of the drop bar gives a smaller profile against wind which significantly reduces drag. When doing bike fit, they set the width of the drop bar (yes, they change the handle bard to suit the rider) to the shoulder width so that your shoulders do not open up against the wind. So, if you are into long rides where yo expect severe head winds, a narrower drop bar gives you an advantage.
Also, as prabuddhadg has mentioned, a proper drop bar provides multiple hand positions so that you can keep changing the positions to relieve stress on the same muscle groups. |
Thanks for those great inputs guys. I'm sure the drop bar on my roadie will be all you guys claim it to be. But I'm currently still fixated on my flat bar hybrid.
I'm a bit confused with one part of your post Prabuddha.
Where you say a flat bar with bar end extenders will possibly have more positions than the bullhorn bar?
Shouldn't they be exactly the same, just that the bullhorn is a single piece?
You can change the tilt of the horns by rotating the bar on the stem clamp. On the flat bar you can do the same. Or you can adjust each barend angle individually as well.
I guess the big advantage I saw in the bullhorn bars I saw recently in Geneva was the curved corners. Those would be more comfortable to rest the base of your palms on - against the pad of the thumb ... As the thumb either hooked around the outside or the inside of the horn (that's actually two different hand positions, with subtle difference in pressure points).
In the flat bar with bar end extenders, that's my go to cruising position, as I have my bar set quite low, as the frame is small, and it gives me a good driving aero position (at least, my body has adapted to it). Only thing is, the sharp round end of the bar, and the overlapping clamping ring of the bar end provide a sharp edge which bites into the flesh if the palm over distance, even with padded gloves.
I've found a workaround which is a foam tube cover over the bar ends, which I've cut at the ends of the clamps so that they can slide over and under it and give some extra cushioning.
Another option I've not yet tried is taping around that sharp corner edge. Though I've been told that drop bar bartape will just get cut there.
Hope you guys get what I'm describing without a specific foto to point out the exact offending region.
Cheers, Doc
P.S. I prefer narrower bars too Graaja. My urban bar on the ACT has barely an inch of unused space on either side after barends, grips, brake/shifter, computer/light, and center clamp. As a result of which the default hand position described above is more comfortable for longer, than the hands straight on top of the actual grips (I use that only as a change relief).