[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shipnil

But I do see a disc on the chain ring. Not sure if is called dork disc. Why do you need it on front chain ring if you advise to remove it from cassette?

Good point. Aesthetics I guess. Look at the condition of the dork disc. And look at the chain guard. The chain guard merges with the crank. And is rigidly fitted. The dork disc is (was) an eyesore. Used to rattle and was loosely press fitted. And most importantly, the dork disc touches the moving freewheel biggest cog on the inside at some points, however minutely, lightly. The chain guard does not touch the moving chain at all.

But above all, it just looks better, cleaner, more mechanical, sans dork disc.

[ssjr0498]

Pardon me for my ignorance, but why not use something like a Putoline tech chain? If it works magic on motor bikes, would it not on bikes?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shipnil

But I do see a disc on the chain ring. Not sure if is called dork disc. Why do you need it on front chain ring if you advise to remove it from cassette?

OT: Post some photos of your ACT 110 Shipnil. I have never seen it. And for ages we have been discussing our bikes.

Cheers, Doc

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by ssjr0498

Pardon me for my ignorance, but why not use something like a Putoline tech chain? If it works magic on motor bikes, would it not on bikes?

Most motorcycle chain lubes are of a heavier viscosity, because motorcycle chains are heavier, move faster and a very light oil will just disappear in no time.

Bicycle chain lubes are probably of a lighter viscosity, i think. I have NEVER used bicycle specific lube apart from squirt wax which is not a traditional dino oil lube anyway.

That said, i went online and looked up bicycle forums and many many people are using their existing motorcycle lubes for their bikes. So there is no problem.

This putoline seems interesting. Will be good to see what all the ingredients are. If there is even a trace of dino oil there, your bike chain will look greasy and filthy in no time - which is precisely what all of us here are trying to avoid by going the wax route.

Safety sheet https://www.putoline.com/en/catalogu...ch-chain/1766/

Contains a bunch of hydrocarbons
a compound of hydrogen and carbon, such as any of those which are the chief components of petroleum and natural gas.

All dino based motorcycle lubes will make your bicycle chain look like a dead rag in a single ride.

[aneezan]

How does normal sewing oil work as a lubricant? I have seen many local mechanics use this and even recommend this as a good alternative to the more expensive lubes. It is less viscous than motorcycle oil. Suggestions?

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by aneezan

How does normal sewing oil work as a lubricant? I have seen many local mechanics use this and even recommend this as a good alternative to the more expensive lubes. It is less viscous than motorcycle oil. Suggestions?

Will be okay I guess, but will still attract dirt and grit. This kind of oil is probably best suited to lube cables etc. But I would just throw the cables away and install new ones every year or whatever.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by aneezan

How does normal sewing oil work as a lubricant? I have seen many local mechanics use this and even recommend this as a good alternative to the more expensive lubes. It is less viscous than motorcycle oil. Suggestions?

Used it extensively for years on Metal Monster (my Top Gear) and Blue (my ACT).

Till Singer stopped making it/stopped getting it in the market.

Tried some other alternatives. Did not like them. Around that time started using purpose built cycle lubes.

[shipnil]

Originally Posted by ebonho

OT: Post some photos of your ACT 110 Shipnil. I have never seen it. And for ages we have been discussing our bikes.

Cheers, Doc

Doc, your ACT110 is very well maintained, pampered bike which sees a lot of usage. In my case, the usage went down when I bought roadie 3 years back. For fitness/longer rides I use roadie while the ACT110 is used mostly to run errands around neighborhood. I maintain her enough that she wouldn't break down but I don't think she is in a condition where I can post pictures.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shipnil

Doc, your ACT110 is very well maintained, pampered bike which sees a lot of usage. In my case, the usage went down when I bought roadie 3 years back. For fitness/longer rides I use roadie while the ACT110 is used mostly to run errands around neighborhood. I maintain her enough that she wouldn't break down but I don't think she is in a condition where I can post pictures.

Which color one do you have?

I'm going to be sending vb-san a big list of posts to migrate soon for a Ownership / General ACT 110 thread soon, and I must warn you there are quite a few posts that are yours in that. Ninja and Bugatti too. As well as Aravind. Of course the bulk are mine because I can't stop talking about this little gem. Lol

While doing a search, I found many ACT posts in the 2015 time period, and was surprised to see that most of them were pretty negative.

[Stribog]

Absolute noobie who just got into cycling - like total noob, only do 30 km runs 2, 3 times a week.

My cycle is a very basic Mach City Munich 21 gear.

What is the basic cleaning regimen I should follow for this? My dealer gave me sewing machine oil and told me to spray it on weekly, it seems very dodgy to me, so what is the best cleaning, oiling regimen.

Note, I will never cycle in the rain (at least not now), and it is only dry conditions.

Edit - https://www.amazon.in/dp/B08XNC8B6J/...dDbGljaz10cnVl

I was thinking of getting this product. Is this a good one?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Stribog

Absolute noobie who just got into cycling - like total noob, only do 30 km runs 2, 3 times a week.

My cycle is a very basic Mach City Munich 21 gear.

What is the basic cleaning regimen I should follow for this? My dealer gave me sewing machine oil and told me to spray it on weekly, it seems very dodgy to me, so what is the best cleaning, oiling regimen.

Note, I will never cycle in the rain (at least not now), and it is only dry conditions.

Spray/brush diesel/petrol/WD40 on chain and rear sprockets and front chainrings.

Let it soak for 5 minutes. Clean with toothbrush and any broad brush with long stiff bristles (bathroom or clothes washing brushes are best).

Wash with hot water and Vim or any degreaser detergent.

Rinse well with water to get all degreaser residue out.

Let it dry properly.

Lube. Back pedal a few times for lube to spread. Let it stand overnight to penetrate properly.

If a wet lube, wipe off excess on the outside of the chain the next morning before you ride. If a wax based lube, do not ... just ride.

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by Stribog

Edit - https://www.amazon.in/dp/B08XNC8B6J/...dDbGljaz10cnVl

I was thinking of getting this product. Is this a good one?

Read all the reviews carefully and then decide.

Short answer= NO. Use the sewing machine oil until you get a better hang of maintenance.

[narayanang76]

Originally Posted by Stribog

My cycle is a very basic Mach City Munich 21 gear.

What is the basic cleaning regimen I should follow for this? My dealer gave me sewing machine oil and told me to spray it on weekly, it seems very dodgy to me, so what is the best cleaning, oiling regimen.

Edit -

I was thinking of getting this product. Is this a good one?

If you use the right oil, the maintenance and cleaning also becomes relatively easy (also good for environment). I have 2 bikes, one road bike and one MTB both these I clean the drivetrain with Vim dish wash liquid, slightly diluted and use an old tooth brush to clean the chain, cassette and chain rings. After cleaning once it is dry, I apply the lube and that's it.

There are lubes available comparable to the price that you see for that amazon product. Muc-Off lube is the one I use, I have both their dry and wet lubes. They give us cleaning intervals of some 400-500 kms of outdoor riding (my experience). I clean my bikes in my apartment bathroom and the bathroom floor stays relatively clean even after cleaning my bike with these oils (they are also biodegradable).

Sewing machine oil attracts a lot of dirt quickly and you will end up cleaning more, sometimes just after a 2-3 rides and it makes the whole bike, the area dirty as well.

[dragntailonfire]

Got caught in the rain again, day before yesterday, and when I returned home and checked the bike after having breakfast, I noticed this grayish grime sticking on to the rear wheel and brakes.







This is the state of the cloth that I used to wipe it down. This didn’t happen during a previous ride in the rain, so, I am wondering if it is the chain lube (which was applied the previous night), that got splattered on to the rim.



I still can’t get the black grime fully off the rim, where the brake shoes press. The silver finish is dirty now.



Also, this was the design I got on my rain jacket, without the ass saver this time, and looked almost as same as what happened with it.



After a day of rest, took the bike out today. The chain is relatively cleaner looking after a 40kms ride.





Almost 100kms has passed, since the lubing, and I got some black grease on my fingers, after running it over the chain. However, it is dry, and I was able to rub it off easily.



I heard some squeaking during the ride, so the plan is to wipe the outside of the chain clean, with an old rag, and then reapply Squirt in the evening, before tomorrow’s ride.

Cheers.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by dragntailonfire

Got caught in the rain again, day before yesterday, and when I returned home and checked the bike after having breakfast, I noticed this grayish grime sticking on to the rear wheel and brakes.

This is the state of the cloth that I used to wipe it down. This didn’t happen during a previous ride in the rain, so, I am wondering if it is the chain lube (which was applied the previous night), that got splattered on to the rim.

After a day of rest, took the bike out today. The chain is relatively cleaner looking after a 40kms ride.

I heard some squeaking during the ride, so the plan is to wipe the outside of the chain clean, with an old rag, and then reapply Squirt in the evening, before tomorrow’s ride.

Cheers.

That's is VERY light rain splatter bro. I'll take a photo next ride to show you what my jersey looks like. The lower center is solid caked in mud. No isolated splatter discernible!

I don't know about you guys but I'm not getting good results in this heavy rain with Squirt.

I dry cleaned the chain (the cloth photo I posted earlier) and put a dab on each roller and allowed it to stand overnight.

No second application (assuming the second application was only for the first time to load the pins a d rollers after a deep clean).

Last night in the heavy downpour after Dehu (25 km mark) my chain was feeling dry and making the wet grinding noises even before the 50 km turnaround. Not the outright squeaks like when it dries out.

Will apply a second additional layer and try again ....