[flipsyde]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Sure, you can.

Not sure about your acronyms, but it shouldn't matter if the OE HU in DZire doesn't have Pre-outs. You neither have to solder anything inside the HU, nor is a LOC (Line Output Converter) a bad way of connecting to an amp. In fact, it is the default way of connecting whenever Pre-outs are not available terminated at RCA sockets on the HU. There is no signal degradation, nor any significant noise introduction if one uses a good LOC. Many Amps (unfortunately not the GTO1004) accept Speaker-level inputs - the LOC is built-in.

The main problem I faced when I first went with LOC for the Civic HU was the quality of music. Everything right from vocals to bass felt very muted. And I tried both Audison LOC and the LOC built right into my JBL 75.4 they both really sucked. Especially because I had no equalizer settings or any way to tune the audio to best suit my speaker and my listening.

The next best option would be a DSP from Rockford Fosgate or Audison. I've demoed them both and liked the Audison better. This is an expensive option and in my opinion makes sense only on higher end cars where the in-car entertainment is also hooked up to parking sensors, ECU readouts etc.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by flipsyde

The main problem I faced when I first went with LOC for the Civic HU was the quality of music. Everything right from vocals to bass felt very muted. ...

There must have been something seriously wrong in the way the LOC was connected. Haven't had, or heard someone having, that bad an experience in a long time. Even when the speaker-wire side connection was crudely stripped, twisted and taped!

Originally Posted by flipsyde

... Especially because I had no equalizer settings or any way to tune the audio to best suit my speaker and my listening. ...

Psychosomatic! No remedy for that.

One selects speakers to suit what one listens to, not tune the audio to suit the speakers. That would be putting the cart before the horse!!!

Originally Posted by flipsyde

... The next best option would be a DSP ...

I agree that is the best option - to remove the OE bias. BUT ... even the DSP would have to be connected via an LOC (or would have one built-in). And, at around 8-10x the cost of an LOC, a DSP is not at the top of the mind for most people with OE HUs without Pre-out - no matter what advantage it gets to the table.

[flipsyde]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

There must have been something seriously wrong in the way the LOC was connected. Haven't had, or heard someone having, that bad an experience in a long time. Even when the speaker-wire side connection was crudely stripped, twisted and taped!

Psychosomatic! No remedy for that.

One selects speakers to suit what one listens to, not tune the audio to suit the speakers. That would be putting the cart before the horse!!!

I agree that is the best option - to remove the OE bias. BUT ... even the DSP would have to be connected via an LOC (or would have one built-in). And, at around 8-10x the cost of an LOC, a DSP is not at the top of the mind for most people with OE HUs without Pre-out - no matter what advantage it gets to the table.

I am positive about the connections being right. We checked and double checked. The HU was greatly reducing bass when we pumped up the volume. Honestly it sounded just ok at low volumes but certainly not worth the trouble of upgrading to new speakers and an amp just to stick to LOCs.

You seem to have gotten me wrong. I meant the HU seems to alter its output (reduced bass) as we increase the volume to protect the OE speakers which were now replaced. A Pioneer HU (which is what I'm running now) give a uniform output throughout my listening range.

I have, like many others, auditioned a few speakers before I narrowed down to Boston Components for its price and warm sounding nature. When I speak of tuning the audio for it to sound right I expressly mean the use of an equalizer, graphic or otherwise, to make my music sound better to my ears from my speakers.

I wouldn't dismiss a DSP purely based on cost alone. In fact I would recommend it to someone happy with the inputs on their stock HU but want to upgrade everything else. Audison Bit Ten which costs 18k or so is very powerful when it come to getting the sound you want from the speakers and yet costs less than a Double DIN HU.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by flipsyde

I am positive about the connections being right. We checked and double checked. ...

I still doubt it, but that is me!

Originally Posted by flipsyde

... The HU was greatly reducing bass when we pumped up the volume. ...

It would - that is the classical definition of LOUDNESS function. No brainer when you consider speakers of limited abilities. The same profiled output will sound far better on decent speakers.

Originally Posted by flipsyde

... You seem to have gotten me wrong. I meant the HU seems to alter its output ...

No, my friend, I haven't. I wrote "OE bias" for that.

Originally Posted by flipsyde

... When I speak of tuning the audio for it to sound right I expressly mean the use of an equalizer, graphic or otherwise, to make my music sound better to my ears from my speakers. ...

Slight difference between what you do and what I do. I audition with ALL TONE CONTROLS FLAT. If I like it, I buy it. Goes for anything - speakers, HU, amp, et al.

After buying I don't fiddle with it further to bring it to my liking - as there is a likelihood that I will miss completely what the original music recording was meant to convey to me. Beyond the natural capabilities of the system components, I don't add a personal listening bias to it, because that would be akin to changing the words of a poem to suit my personal preference. That seems to be a preferred method for you, and that is where we are different.

Originally Posted by flipsyde

... I wouldn't dismiss a DSP purely based on cost alone. ... Audison Bit Ten which costs 18k or so is very powerful when it come to getting the sound you want from the speakers and yet costs less than a Double DIN HU.

LOL that is, well, different reasoning.
a. An LOC costs 2K - far cry from 18K for DSP. That is clinching logic for most (please read up on the other threads on the economic preferences that members have here)!
b. If one replaces the OE HU with an after-market HU, the DSP is obviated in most cases, since most HUs have more than decent capabilities even for TA. And most serious listeners satisfy themselves with a really good 1DIN HU
c. If one talks about DSP, one has to necessarily specify external amp and decently capable components & coaxes. The internal amp won't cut it. Total investment for going from OE music to decent music would then amount to 35-40K not even considering OE HU change!

[ForeRunner]

Hi Friends,

Last year I brought Infinity Kappa component and coax speakers for my Dzire with a Kappa Four amplifier and a JVC single DIN player(JVC KD-BTP30) from US. I bought Dynamit damping (full pack) too. Last time I didn't have time to go for a proper installer and hence installed the speakers alone with the stock (Nippon) System.

Now I am looking for a decent installer in Chennai. While inquiring I have come across a installer in Royapettah. He is quoting 10,000 Rs for installation (includes the cost of Console, wiring kit and harness) plus 4000 Rs for dampening in front doors. The damping material is a local brand.

Since I am going to upgrade my car in a year, I preserve the dynamit full pack for the new car.

Kindly advice whether the above quote is reasonable or not.

And is it possible to fix the JVC single DIN player somewhere else without touching the stock system? As the player has an inbuilt Blue Tooth option hearing music is easy through iPhone pairing.

Thanks in advance.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by ForeRunner

... I have come across a installer in Royapettah. He is quoting 10,000 Rs for installation (includes the cost of Console, wiring kit and harness) plus 4000 Rs for dampening in front doors. The damping material is a local brand. ...

"includes the cost of Console": What is "Console" referring to here? If he means Adapter to mount the JVC HU instead of the stock HU, check with the Spares dept. of your Service Center.

In any case the person seems to be asking for too much. The Harness adapter costs 100, a decent wiring kit ~2K (you can actually use Finolex or similar for power, and get good RCA cables for about 400 each).

Damping 4K for just 2 doors is too much (that also for 'local' damping, which would actually be China-made), since 4doors + boot lid would cost you about 5K.

Originally Posted by ForeRunner

... And is it possible to fix the JVC single DIN player somewhere else without touching the stock system? ...

You can either keep it in the glove compartment, or mount it with brackets below the glove compartment. Access is likely to be a bit difficult in either case - as compared to mounting in the console. Since only one unit can be connected to the harness at a time, the stock HU will be dummy.