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-   -   The Damping Material and Sound Deadener Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-entertainment/13307-damping-material-sound-deadener-thread-40.html)

the 150 rs sqft material is almost the same, only difference is, it sells by different names. you can contact gyro for it.

A couple of months back - I found a shop in 28 stocking damping @ 100Rs/ft. It was different from Damping used for doors. I could figure out asphalt layer thicker and hence would have needed more heat than the normal damping to apply. The intented application was said to be for floors and firewall...

Don't remember the shop name was next to SK motors in 28, try that out if has it....

In all the discussion one vital think which appears to me missing is that whatever material you use must be fire retardant. Any soft material put, sprayed, fixed to the car will work by both damping the vibrations, as well as working as a barrier. The only negative thing is the extra weight.

We somehow tend to forget that in the event of a fire (maybe it only happens to others) will it act as tinder, and also will it give out noxious/toxic fumes.

Thanks Rohit, will check it out!Is the shop to the left or to the right of SK motors?

@sgiitk, valid point!

Driven, East of Kailash. On the road from LSR to Nehru Place, its on the side of and behind a fitness equipment showroom.

It's towards the PNB branch...

Hi Harmon, I guess the cost would depend on the product being used. A Dynamat Xtreme door-kit (4 sheets of 12" x 36") costs 6K, & a trunk-kit (5 sheets 18" x 32") costs 9.2K. These are April '08 prices from PTC (Preeti Trading Corporation) - you can try emailing them for '09 prices at, I think, "sales@ptchhifi.com".

The Dynamat Xtreme trunk kit, at 20 sq. ft, should be enough material to cover the entire floor of your trunk, including the spare wheel well. If what you got is only bits & peices, then it does not seem to be worth the 8K you paid for it. And 11K for the doors alone ? That's almost 2 door-kits ! Ensure your "installer" hasn't shortchanged you on the material...

I would like know how would you rate them from 1-10 for what the are build, i.e. Sound Insulation.

Which one would make a difference in the doors?

from what I've seen, sheet for sheet the Dynamat Extreme is the best of the lot available in India. This is why it's the only damping sheet which will see light of day in my car. Expensive though, at over Rs 300 per sq ft. Double the cost of noise kill

Guys, See this

Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction from Second Skin

white_vdi has confirmed that Noisekill (or whatever kill) is available in GYRO for INR 120/SqFt. I am planning to order the same for the Swift. How much qty would I need if I plan to damp all 4 doors and the boot ?

Is there anyone else from Chennai who's interested (Sathee ?). Maybe we could order together :)

Its not noise kill, but some different brand, @120/ft even i am tempted to buy it. I wonder if they ship to Mumbai, any idea ?

I did a thorough search of this thread but did not get specific and cost effective damping solutions for Safari.

I have a Safari Ex and it comes with OE Blaupunkt Mp3 Car audio with 4 laupunkt speakers on 4 doors. The speakers themselves are pretty good and produce decent sound. The problem is there is heavy vibration (on bass) if i increase the volume beyond 20. Now, in Safari the speakers are installed on separate housing on the plastic door covers. My question is this vibration is gue to the plasic door cover or the sheet metal of the door? So if I go for damping, do I need to do it for the cover or door or both? Has any Safari owners did the damping for it and how much did it cost?

Hi, if you're amping your speakers you will get the full benifits of damping, on my Safari I have fabricated MDF speaker rings, which I have mounted to the inner door skin, to do this I angled the rings to suit the speaker pod angle, although this is not necessary you can mount a pair of rings glued together straight, but you will need to cut more of the plastic on the door card off. This in my opinion should be your first step, you get a much crisper sound even with just the HU powering the speakers, then damping should come next, on the Safari I have been advised both inner and outer skin require damping, given the equipment i am using.

Hope this helps....

Now I have a question myself, i am getting my front doors damped on my Safari, probably next week, I am doing both inner and outer skins, I am only doing the fronts for now as they are amped, currently my Genesis profile 4 is doing duty this is rated at 55wrms per channel, I am going to be briging this to 2 channels which will give me 170wrms at hand, so plenty of headroom, my new speakers will handle 120wrms, by time the gains are adjusted will probably not use more than 60wrms. The installer stocks both noise kill and 3 varients of a new damping from sadesigns, he has recomended the premium version from sadesigns. As I am putting large amounts of clean power into my front stage, can anyone advise what difference there is between the products, i have no personal bias, but having seen all four products side by side, i am leaning towards the 140mil/premium variant from sadesigns, this has been quoted at Rs4600 for both doors and both skins, which seems reasonable. Can anyone offer independent advice on this?

Cheers,

Stefan

The outer metal of the Safari doors already has a decent amount of damping (tar-mica based). Road noise leakage and panel resonance are substantially less than other cars south of 10L. A bit more can definitely help.

The real problem is the wide undamped expanses of the FRP door pad. This could use a decent amount of damping material, or careful FG lining on the inside to stiffen the FRP. This itself would cut down the sympathetic vibrations substantially (feels wierd to feel the sound through the elbow).

The angled speaker mounting flange itself is not a problem to need MDF spacers if one is listening at decent volumes. Only if one is mounting 6.5" speakers one has to do some modifications.

Make sure the wires in the door are properly stayed down or glued to the metal with hot-melt. Otherwise, opening the door pad will give you more problems.