[i_m_anaconda]

I will soon be getting delivery of my SV CVT Honda City. The only thing that I hate about this car is the 3.5'' music system. I was talking to a gentleman at accessory shop near my place and he told me that I can upgrade the OEM system without loosing ability to use steering mounted controls. He mentioned some aftermarket interface that could be fitted to make steering mounted controls work.

Guru's can you suggest if such things exists and are safe to be fitted.

Any impact on warranty?

[navin]

Most after market products (especially the better brands) are safe for fitment. If you ask Honda they will claim the warranty will be voided. Chances are that they might not even realise or care that an after market product has been fitted. Just make sure no wires are cut and spliced and that the installer uses standard plug in connectors.

After all if your clutch fails what does a steering harness have to do with it's function. Still dealers are within their rights to claim "void warranty".

So in short, yes, a well made, properly installed product is safe; yes, this prodcut can theoretically void your warranty and you need to be aware of that risk; but many dealers may not care or realise that the after market product is infact NOT OEM.

My wife's 2009 City has a ton of audio hardware as also my 2012 Camry and my mom's 2006 City and all our previous cars. Not once has any dealer claimed a void warranty despite seeing a plethora of amplifers, processors, after market HUs, and speakers of various sizes in plain sight.

By that logic an aftermarket fitment of upgraded tyres should void warranty on suspensions, an aftger market fitment of upgraded headlights should void all electrical warranty, etc.. the law is in the dealer's favour but most dealers are more practical than the law.

[malgudi]

Originally Posted by i_m_anaconda

I will soon be getting delivery of my SV CVT Honda City. The only thing that I hate about this car is the 3.5'' music system. I was talking to a gentleman at accessory shop near my place and he told me that I can upgrade the OEM system without loosing ability to use steering mounted controls. He mentioned some aftermarket interface that could be fitted to make steering mounted controls work.

Guru's can you suggest if such things exists and are safe to be fitted.

There are interface devices which allow you to retain the steering mounted controls. Having said that let me put a different thought process here. I too have a honda city SVMT with the 3.5" music system and thinking of upgrade.

Consider the below (I am thinking of going down this route)
1. Use a 7" tab (samsung/Nexus). I get atleast 32 to 64 GB of storage space for music
2. Pair this with the OEM music system via bluetooth (No additional interface required for steering controls)
3. Upgrade speakers with components.

Advantage of Tab is I would also be able add OBD interface to it, pair a reverse camera to it, use GPS, and also have wireless connectivity (wifi/SIM) at my disposal. TAB can be carried home and used there as well (Double purpose) & I would not void any warranty as well

[harry10]

Good thread. I was thinking of starting something similar as i will be getting the delivery next month of my SV model city. Wasn't satisfied at all with the sound during my TD.

Kindly, do update here as and when you do any upgrade in the music system.

[Rocketscience]

I'm thinking of upgrading my car's audio system as soon i get the delivery , this is what i've planned :

1-I've taken out front components from my previous car (JBL Power Series {which by the way = Infinity Kappa} - used them for 3 years and having heard a lot of high end car audio systems and home audio speakers from B&W,Paradigm,KEF i can say that they are a very decent 6.5/10 overall and provide decent level of mid bass.

2-I've also taken out rear 6X9 (Power Series) and i want to know if they can be fitted in the rear parcel tray of the car by cutting something , is this advisable?

or

Alternatively (for now) , i can shift the front components of the car (which are way better than the rear ones) to the rear and connect them with front channel of the audio system (which i've heard is more powerful than the rear one).

3-Connect a Hi/Lo converter with the rear channel of the audio system and use a 4 channel amp to drive the front components and the subwoofer (Infinity 1220se which i've already purchased from Snapdeal)

Now my Budget is no more than 10k (can be extended but i prefer not to) for the 4 channel amp (JBL or Bull audio or anything) , the installation and damping.
So i need your advice and comments on this , i want a nice compromise between SQ and SPL.
The JBLs provide decent SQ for their price , the efficient and ported Infinity sub would provide SPL without being overly boomy and would compensate for the limited power it'll be fed by a low end amplifier.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

... 2-I've also taken out rear 6X9 (Power Series) and i want to know if they can be fitted in the rear parcel tray of the car by cutting something , is this advisable? ...

Sure, go ahead. Might need MDF adapters to raise the 6x9 speaker frame if the parcel shelf has provisions only for round.

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

... shift the front components of the car (which are way better than the rear ones) to the rear and connect them with front channel of the audio system (which i've heard is more powerful than the rear one). ...

No, the amp ratings are the same. Where did you hear that "more powerful than the rear one" bit from?

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

... 3-Connect a Hi/Lo converter with the rear channel of the audio system and use a 4 channel amp to drive the front components and the subwoofer (Infinity 1220se which i've already purchased from Snapdeal) ...

Correct, but please connect the Converter to the Front AND Rear speaker output channels of the HU. With this arrangement your Fader function is maintained - in case rear seat passengers complain about the sub loudness, you would just need to Fade to front to reduce it.

The rear speakers (6x9 coaxes) should be driven from the HU.

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

... Now my Budget is no more than 10k (can be extended but i prefer not to) for the 4 channel amp (JBL or Bull audio or anything) , the installation and damping. ...

Try the Kenwood M846 amp (~6K).

Damping will cost you ~5K. Use domestic wiring cables like Finolex, Havells etc. for the power wiring. Don't scrimp on the RCA cables from Converter to the amp - buy a good pair.

[Rocketscience]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Sure, go ahead. Might need MDF adapters to raise the 6x9 speaker frame if the parcel shelf has provisions only for round.

The reason i asked this was the rear parcel tray of Honda City has no provision for any speakers and i'll have to get the metal thing cut for the same , the boot release wire and stuff are bolted to that same area and would probably have to be relocated to fit in the 6X9s

Originally Posted by DerAlte

No, the amp ratings are the same. Where did you hear that "more powerful than the rear one" bit from?

The front speakers being more powerful than the rear one is written in team BHP's official review.
The H.U providing more power bit i read on a random website , the reason i believed this apparently stupid thing was my rear 6x9's performing way worse than my front components in my i20 , they were both power series and although the rear one was a co-axial it performed a little better (more midbass ,loudness) than my front components when i auditioned them , but in my car they sounded almost lifeless and not much better than the stock speakers on the rear , i got the wiring checked twice but no luck.

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Try the Kenwood M846 amp (~6K).

I've heard a lot about Bullaudio PA 4.200 , its power handling capabilities and its heat efficiency , no idea what this costs though , i might just consider this if its ~10K , would add a monoblock amplifier in the future,but i think this amplifier should perform the task well for the time being.
What's your take on this?
Also what do you think about the infinity 1220se , from what i've observed you don't seem to be a big fan of ported enclosures but this thing sounded adequately tight and pretty loud in my friend's car , since my car would be doing daily rounds to the college , SPL is of a bit of a importance but having read a lot about infinity kappa on this forum i'm starting to feel wrong about my decision and since the subwoofer is still unopened i might just trade this for kappa series if the car accessory guy agrees.
But will this thing provide more SPL in a sealed box than mine in the ported one?
and wont the basic 4 channel amp i'll initially be using to power them be inadequate for them?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

... in my car they sounded almost lifeless and not much better than the stock speakers on the rear , i got the wiring checked twice but no luck. ...

2 possible reasons:
* Wired out of phase
* Too large a gap between parcel tray and surrounding

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

... I've heard a lot about Bullaudio PA 4.200 , its power handling capabilities and its heat efficiency ...

If you are going by numbers, you may be disappointed. There is more to amps than absolute numbers. Listen to the amps in installations first, with your own music.

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

... from what i've observed you don't seem to be a big fan of ported enclosures but this thing sounded adequately tight and pretty loud in my friend's car ...

I am not a fan of *anything*. If it sounds right for my ears, I go with it. Everyone has different tastes, which is why we always recommend a serious audition with your own music.

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

... i might just trade this for kappa series if the car accessory guy agrees.
But will this thing provide more SPL in a sealed box than mine in the ported one? ...

Yes, the Kappa is a better sub. But, no, in a sealed box it won't be louder than any sub in a ported box. It will only be faster and have better bass fidelity. The Kappa can also be fitted in a ported box - check the data sheet online for the box and port sizes.

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

... and wont the basic 4 channel amp i'll initially be using to power them be inadequate for them?

It should. I drive my Kappa sub with 150W rms max.

I don't play music for people outside the car to listen to - I play it enjoy it myself. I doubt if more than 100W is ever pushed into the sub (that also for hip hop etc.). Even then, I have been told that the music was audible outside the car (on occasions that I have cranked up the volume) with the windows rolled up.

[Rocketscience]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

I don't play music for people outside the car to listen to - I play it enjoy it myself. I doubt if more than 100W is ever pushed into the sub (that also for hip hop etc.). Even then, I have been told that the music was audible outside the car (on occasions that I have cranked up the volume) with the windows rolled up.

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

The reason i asked this was the rear parcel tray of Honda City has no provision for any speakers and i'll have to get the metal thing cut for the same , the boot release wire and stuff are bolted to that same area and would probably have to be relocated to fit in the 6X9s

Thanks for your advice sir , but do you recommend getting the metal sheet at the back (which is a part of the chassis) cut to install 6X9s in them? Would there be any negative impact to anything to do so? is it possible to reallocate all the boot release wires elsewhere to fit in the 6X9s?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

... do you recommend getting the metal sheet at the back (which is a part of the chassis) cut to install 6X9s in them? Would there be any negative impact to anything to do so? is it possible to reallocate all the boot release wires elsewhere to fit in the 6X9s?

Sure, no probem, installers have been doing it from a long time. Cutting 2 oval holes will no weaken the parcel shelf, since it is not a loaded structural member. Funny that Honda has not provided oval/round cutouts with a lip already.

If you can post a picture of the underside of the parcel shelf, it will help us visualize the problem of relocating the boot release wires and suggest a solution.

[Rocketscience]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Sure, no probem, installers have been doing it from a long time. Cutting 2 oval holes will no weaken the parcel shelf, since it is not a loaded structural member. Funny that Honda has not provided oval/round cutouts with a lip already.

If you can post a picture of the underside of the parcel shelf, it will help us visualize the problem of relocating the boot release wires and suggest a solution.

Thanks once again , then finally i'm going for JBL power series components in the front and ovals at the back , infinity 1220se and i'll make the choice of amplifier when i audition one , will post the pictures of the boot when i get the delivery of the car but i trust your word completely for the ovals in the rear part and would get all this done soon after the delivery.

[deepakv]

Trying to decide between one of the 2 options for my planned VX CVT purchase:

1 - Keep existing 2x2 components in the 4 doors, and add ovals on the parcel shelf as suggested above
2 - Swap the front stock components into the back door (as theyre better sounding by far), and add new JBL components with a dedicated crossover in the front door + add an amp to all 4 components.

Mainly listen to electronic music (trance, deep house, techno) and a bit of alternative rock. Any suggestions?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by deepakv

... 1 - Keep existing 2x2 components in the 4 doors, and add ovals on the parcel shelf as suggested above
2 - Swap the front stock components into the back door (as theyre better sounding by far)...

Could you please clarify
- What are "2x2 components"?
- Does "existing" mean you already have them?
- If so, what make / model are they?

In any case, mounting components in the rear doors is not advisable. It spoils the front image. Nor do these components produce bass comparable to 6x9 ovals.

Are you sure the new car will come with 'components' in front?

[shamanth]

Originally Posted by deepakv

1 - Keep existing 2x2 components in the 4 doors, and add ovals on the parcel shelf as suggested above

Don't think you get components with stock, these are just plain speakers of 10-20w.

[deepakv]

Apologies for any confusion - the V/VX variants come with 4 speakers & 4 tweeters in the doors (OEM fitment) - these i thought are pseudo-component speakers as they do not have a dedicated crossover e.g. like my existing Zen's JBL GTOs. Anyway, they front speakers sound decent but the rear sound is not satisfactory judging from the test drive VX variant - i was looking to spend about 10k to spruce up the bass & overall sound in the car - my guess is this means adding ovals on the parcel tray & an amp for the "pseudo components" in the doors?