[BIBIN004]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Good plan - go ahead.

* With many fake kits in the market, it is difficult to recommend a wiring kit. Good installers usually get the original stuff (like a Scosche kit), but one need not be limited to kits

* For power wiring, one can use teflon-coated multicore cables from Havells or such known brands

* Initially, when you are changing only the speakers, you can use the existing speaker wiring. When you put in the amp, you will have to put in new speaker cables. The installer would have the cable

* To connect the amp to the HU, you will need a pair (or more) of RCA cables. This is critical, since inferior cables - usually with a loosely woven shield - can create havoc with noise. Buy Scosche or such known brand

* Your brand / model choices are good. Just make sure you audition the speakers before buying, so that you get the characteristics that you like - everyone has different tastes

* Do audition other brands too, like Polk, DLS, Rainbow etc.

* Look for an Infinity Kappa 120.9 sub or a Ground Zero sub in the 10-12K range, rather than a <6K sub. Makes a lot of difference if you want to hear really tight, fast bass along with electronic bass in hip hop etc.

Many thanks for your feedback which has helped me decide on most of the bits. So here goes the updated status on my ICE upgrade

HeadUnit Pioneer--AVH-8590 BT-Installed
Front Components--Infinity Kappa 60.11 cs-Sourced
Rear Components--Infinity Kappa 60.11 cs-Sourced
4 Channel Amp--Infinity Kappa 4 Class D-1200W-Sourcing Soon
Mono Amp--Infinity Kappa 4 Class D-800W-Sourcing Soon
Damping--Dynamat Extreme-Sourcing Soon [With Dealer]
Wiring Kit--4G [Striker/Audison/Ground Zero]-Sourcing Soon [With Dealer]
Speaker Wires-- Havells/Finolex -Sourcing Soon [With Dealer]

DEALER/INSTALLER-- Evo, Bangalore - Satya [BlueRaven]

I'm a little confused on the Subwoofer since I'm looking for a tight bass rather than a boom. The one I have shortlisted is Infinity Kappa 120.9w-1400W-12 Inch ,however not sure about the other options which could compliment well with the other setup of Amps etc.

However do you think this is a good choice and it would be great if can provide a feedback if you have auditioned one. Moreover can it be fitted in an enclosure which would fit in the boot of a Fortuner without folding the Last row seats & the Enclosure specifications as well.

[nitinbose]

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

I'm a little confused on the Subwoofer since I'm looking for a tight bass rather than a boom. The one I have shortlisted is Infinity Kappa 120.9w-1400W-12 Inch ,however not sure about the other options which could compliment well with the other setup of Amps etc.

However do you think this is a good choice and it would be great if can provide a feedback if you have auditioned one. Moreover can it be fitted in an enclosure which would fit in the boot of a Fortuner without folding the Last row seats & the Enclosure specifications as well.

Hi Bibin,

I had also fitted a sealed enclosure in the boot of the Fortuner without folding the seats. This does work well but you may need to fold your seats if you have some luggage to place and if it wont fit in your balance space. If space is a real concern you may want to consider a compact subwoofer.

To obtain a tight bass the enclosure has to be sealed with the cross-over set to somewhere around 40-60Hz (this is my observation, others may differ). The enclosure size may be calculated from the respective vendor site or there are several online sites which have enclosure calculators where you input the sub specs and it calculates your enclosure size.

You also need to make sure you set the sub levels to match the components, else you would end up with lots of artificial bass, it would sound like music is coming from somewhere whereas there is "something" else producing the bass.

[BIBIN004]

Originally Posted by nitinbose

Hi Bibin,

I had also fitted a sealed enclosure in the boot of the Fortuner without folding the seats. This does work well but you may need to fold your seats if you have some luggage to place and if it wont fit in your balance space. If space is a real concern you may want to consider a compact subwoofer.

Many thanks for your valuable suggestions. As mentioned above,I'm looking for the Infinity Kappa 120.9. do you think this is a good Sub for a tight bass.Furthermore can I know the Sub you have been using in your Fortuner.

Is there a need for a Power distribution block for the ICE setup .

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

... I'm looking for a tight bass rather than a boom. The one I have shortlisted is Infinity Kappa 120.9w-1400W-12 Inch ...

Go for it! Very few other subs can do better at that price. Get a smaller-than-normal box made - 0.7-0.75 cft. The usual readymade boxes are 0.95-1.1 cft. The smaller box would fit in Fortuner boot.

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

... However do you think this is a good choice and it would be great if can provide a feedback if you have auditioned one ...

I am using one!

Originally Posted by nitinbose

... with the cross-over set to somewhere around 40-60Hz (this is my observation, others may differ). ...

Perhaps you should try it yourself before making that suggestion. The bass instruments will start sounding funny on low notes, as you would have suppressed the first harmonic, but not the higher harmonics. There would be a hole between 50-90Hz, since the average round mid-bass doesn't go lower efficiently below 80. One doesn't need to be an audiophile to detect that.

The practical LPF crossover setting range is 60-250Hz, even though most amps are settable 32-320Hz. The ideal LPF XO point is 80Hz if one has round mid-basses / coaxes, and the range people play with is 60-120Hz. The higher one sets the LPF, the more the front image gets pulled backward. For the front components, the best is HPF at 80, if at all one wants to set HPF. If one has 6x9 ovals, one sets LPF somewhere 60-80 for the channel going to sub, and HPF at 60-80 for the 6x9 ovals (or no HPF if driven by HU).

[Traveller Nayak]

I need help from the gurus to know if I can get a remote for the in car entertainment system of my Fortuner? It is a 2013 make and the entertainment system is factory fitted.

I searched through the posts looking for guidance on this topic but I wasn't able to locate one. Apologies in advance if there has been a discussion on this. I am a newbie and still going through the learning process.

May be this is too simple an issue and the short answer is 'yes there is'.

I am not a techie and I haven’t yet asked around in car accessory shops.

I am facing an acute need for a remote as co passengers would want to change FM stations frequently and this is not helpful to me as I am driving.

Any guidance will be really helpful.

[DerAlte]

Check the manual that came with your car - most probably there isn't a provision for one. Very few, if at all, OE systems come with a remote - since the preference is for steering wheel buttons. Unless the system is a standard make like Kenwood or Pioneer etc., you will not find an aftermarket remote for it.

[nitinbose]

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

Furthermore can I know the Sub you have been using in your Fortuner.

Is there a need for a Power distribution block for the ICE setup .

The sub I had is the Polk Audio MM 1240.

It would be a good idea to have a power distribution block so that you may draw a single cable from the car power supply and then distribute to the different amplifiers. Drawing a single cables makes work easier.

[BIBIN004]

Originally Posted by nitinbose

The sub I had is the Polk Audio MM 1240.

It would be a good idea to have a power distribution block so that you may draw a single cable from the car power supply and then distribute to the different amplifiers. Drawing a single cables makes work easier.

Thanks Nitin, If you don't mind, can you please post some pics of the Sub in the trunk of the Fortuner, just to get an idea of how it would look like from different angles with the third row present.

[nitinbose]

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

Thanks Nitin, If you don't mind, can you please post some pics of the Sub in the trunk of the Fortuner, just to get an idea of how it would look like from different angles with the third row present.

You can read about it here: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/suvs-m...rtuner-10.html

[BIBIN004]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Good plan - go ahead.

The Audio components have finally arrived from different sources and it's all ready to go into the Big Boy pretty soon.

SETUP

HeadUnit--Pioneer AVH-8590 BT
Front Components--Infinity Kappa 60.11 cs -270W - 90W RMS
Rear Components--Infinity Kappa 60.11 cs -270W - 90W RMS

4 Channel Amp--Infinity Kappa 4 Class D -1200W

4-Ohm Power Output-125W x 4 less than 1% THD + N
2-Ohm Power Output-150W x 4 less than 1% THD + N

Mono Amp--Infinity Kappa 4 Class D -1600W

4-Ohm Power Output-500W x 1 less than 1% THD + N
2-Ohm Power Output-800W x 1 less than 1% THD + N

Sub Woofer-- Infinity Kappa 120.9W -1400W - 350W RMS

There are a couple of doubts regarding some of the additional components since I have just heard about these components from different forums but not sure whether/how these would be helpful in the ICE setup on my Fortuner.

It would be really great if can you please help clear this confusion for me with some recommended brand names and estimated cost for the same.

A. Power Distribution Block
B. Hi - Low Input Converter
C. Remote Bass Control
D. Capacitors

Regarding the Subwoofer, do you recommend having a polyfill/acoustical foam [which would be better] in the Subwoofer would help in any regard.

Thanks once again for all the time & effort

[saurabh0110]

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

The Audio components have finally arrived from different sources and it's all ready to go into the Big Boy pretty soon.

SETUP

It would be really great if can you please help clear this confusion for me with some recommended brand names and estimated cost for the same.

A. Power Distribution Block
B. Hi - Low Input Converter
C. Remote Bass Control
D. Capacitors

Regarding the Subwoofer, do you recommend having a polyfill/acoustical foam [which would be better] in the Subwoofer would help in any regard.

Thanks once again for all the time & effort

A) Since you are using 2 amplifiers you might want to take a look at Rockford Fosgate Power Distribution Block which is for around 20$ which is not a bad deal
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rockford-Fos...-/390667368144

or you might not need the distribution block at all. You are using both high power amps and you need fuse boxes for both that will come as a part if you buy a 4AWG kit (get bull audio 4AWG if you havn't yet purchased one, its good quality and extremely VFM, if you want a better brand then go for AIV). So for both the fuse boxes you have to buy 2 kits and you get a power cable long enough with the kit to reach the amp from your battery. So why go for a block at all? I think you can connect both the amps directly to your battery.

Also please note that if you are still willing to use the block. You will need a 2 Gauge wire from your battery till your block so that the power further gets distributed to the two 4 gauge cables. This 2 Gauge cable will cost you even more.

I am using a JBL GT-X646 (4 Channel Amp) + JBL GTO 501-EZ (Monoblock) both using focal 8AWG kits, connected directly from the stock battery of a diesel fluidic verna and there have been no complaints.

B) I am assuming that your HU has 4 Pre amp outs and you need 2 more of those to connect the HU to the monoblock. Try the Rockford Rosgate 2 channel high-low convertor.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rf-hlc

In case your HU has 2 pre amp outs. You can go for a 4 channel converter

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rf-hlc4


C) Excellent idea to get a remote bass knob. Get a JBL GTO RBC (Remote Bass Control)

http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/pro...GTO-RBC_JBL_US

Please note that this is not available in the indian market, i am on a lookout for 1 too and i read while researching on the internet that this bass knob is compatible with JBL GTO series amp and infinity kappa's but JBL's official website doesn't mention it. Kindly confirm the compatibility before you purchase one.

D) You may or may not need a capacitor. Best way to find out is to get the rest of the setup completed first and then during the test run, turn on the headlights and the cabin lights inside the car and see if they fluctuate when there is a bass drop.

Also try and notice if there is delay in the bass from the sub when compared to the speakers, or if you feel that the sound from the sub and the speakers are not coordinated and the sub feels lazy and lagging behind. That is a good time to decide if you need a capacitor or not.

I have spent time researching and saw people were also looking at upgrading their stock battery then getting a capacitor and solved the problem for many and was more efficient. However if your'e still looking for a capacitor

Try 2 X 1 Farad Capacitors (1 for each amp)

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rfc1

or go for a single 2 Farad Capacitor

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rfc2d


Whatever works out more for you.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

... There are a couple of doubts regarding some of the additional components since I have just heard about these components from different forums but not sure whether/how these would be helpful in the ICE setup on my Fortuner.
...
A. Power Distribution Block ...

Optional. Since you have 2 amps, you should take 2 separate 12V wires to them from the battery, each with it's individual fuse. Some installers use the same screw location on the battery clamp.

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

... B. Hi - Low Input Converter ...

Not required. Your HU has Pre-outs which are connected to the Amps using RCA cables.

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

... C. Remote Bass Control ...

There is one for $60, but that is for the other Infinity amps. The Kappa doesn't seem to have a provision for the same. In a well tuned system you wouldn't need one, since it will play the low bass the way it was meant to be heard. You will need one if you are jacking up the bass too much, or playing music that has loud droning bass (hip-hop, for example) which your passengers may find disturbing.

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

... D. Capacitors ...

You don't need any. Save the money and buy better RCA cables and speaker wires.

Originally Posted by BIBIN004

... Regarding the Subwoofer, do you recommend having a polyfill/acoustical foam [which would be better] in the Subwoofer would help in any regard. ...

Polyfill. It breaks up the resonance in the sub cabinet, and it is cheaper than acoustical foam. Just put a couple of small throw pillows / cushions inside the sub box.

[knganapathy]

Congrats on the upgrade (or impending one if it is still work in progress). Do post some pictures once the fitment is complete. Am particularly keen on understanding what the boot looks like in terms of space once the sub has been fitted.

Happy listening!

[rishin.kalra]

Hi All

I have a T-Fort 2014 AT. I am looking at better sound clarity using the existing Stock Head unit.

Thought of the following:

1. Hertz Energy Series Components
2. Hertz Amp

Now I need some help with the following:

1. How are Hertz components ? I am not able to audition them anywhere.

2. Would you recommend to go for Components in the back too or just the front with Coax (Hertz/ Alpine) in the back ?

3. I am not looking at putting in a woofer, but would like to enjoy my music with good base. (Not Car shattering)

4. Should I go in for
- Alpine Comps or
- Hertz or
- Rockford

5. What amp should I be considering ? Hertz Energy Comps are 80W RMS and the Hertz amps supports 80x4W.

6. Do you recommend changing the Stock HU ?

Would really appreciate your help. I don't want a very expensive system. Looking at a Mid Range System without Woofer with Good Treble and Good Base.

TIA

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by rishin.kalra

... Thought of the following: ...

What was the driving factor for this? There are plenty of makes, so please list your choices only after auditioning. Don't go by brand name, and you will need to account for availability of good After Sales Service.

Originally Posted by rishin.kalra

... 1. How are Hertz components ? I am not able to audition them anywhere. ...

Can be bright / shrill for some. Try Delhi (for example, Driven in EoK), you might be able to audition.

Originally Posted by rishin.kalra

... 2. Would you recommend to go for Components in the back too or just the front with Coax (Hertz/ Alpine) in the back ? ...

Get coaxes in the rear doors.

Unless installed and tuned properly, Components in the rear are a bigger bane than boon. The tweeters will be closer to the driver's seat than the front tweeters, and even though one hears it off-axis, it is enough to pull the front image rearwards.

Originally Posted by rishin.kalra

... 3. I am not looking at putting in a woofer, but would like to enjoy my music with good base. (Not Car shattering) ...

Wrong assumption, probably because you have not heard good equipment and well-tuned installations. Good bass is *never* "Car shattering". The sub should always be tuned in a way that you can detect it's absence rather than presence. If you don't put a sub, you are not hearing some of the original music content, and how it was meant to be heard - a part of it would be missing. And it really doesn't cost much to get that.

Also, almost none of the components would give you the bass that you are expecting, because of size and capability limitations.

Please remember that the usual installers' modus operandi of getting "jhin chak sound" to impress you is to crank up bass and treble. When auditioning, make sure all audio controls such as EQ, Bass, Treble etc. are set to 0, so that you can listen to unadulterated natural reproduction of the system components.

Originally Posted by rishin.kalra

... 4. Should I go in for ...

First check availability, then audition, and only then shortlist brands. You are not considering DLS, Infinity, JBL, Focal, Bull, Morel, Boston, Rainbow, etc. which would fit your criteria of cost.

Originally Posted by rishin.kalra

... 5. What amp should I be considering ? Hertz Energy Comps are 80W RMS and the Hertz amps supports 80x4W. ...

Forget numbers. They are there to mislead you. And it is not necessary that a costlier / more 'powerful' amp makes better music than a lower cost / power one. Recommendations at this level by dealers are usually driven by margin for the dealer (or what the dealer has), and not technical or musical competence.

Originally Posted by rishin.kalra

... 6. Do you recommend changing the Stock HU ? ...

Not necessary if it has all functionality that you need.