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Tools for a DIYer
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https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do-yourself/88566-tools-diyer-135.html)
Quote:
Originally Posted by govigov
(Post 4576518)
What price did you guys buy the dremel 3000? Looks like leo got 3000-15 while R2D2 got 3000-1/25. |
The 3000 1/25 was about Rs 1K off IIRC during the lightning deal. The main advantage of the kit being the 225 flex shaft and the Dremel holder.
I had ordered an extra flex shaft tool but returned it when I realised the "1" in the 1/25 referred to the flexi tool. I am also keeping an eye on the Dremel 4xxx series stupid:
Quote:
Originally Posted by govigov
(Post 4576518)
What price did you guys buy the dremel 3000? Looks like leo got 3000-15 while R2D2 got 3000-1/25. |
I got the Dremel 3000 and the Flexi Shaft for Rs. 6500.
I didn't opt for the 3000 1/25 kit as it wasn't being sold by Cloudtail when I saw, and I somehow don't trust other sellers. Hence I ordered both items separately.
R2D2 Sir was busy when I told him about the sale, he got delayed and that actually benefitted him. By the time he ordered, the 1/25 kit was back in sale from Cloudtail and he got for Rs. 6100 IIRC.
Regards
Shashi
I'm looking to buy a drill to primarily drill masonry walls, some wood and maybe hard plastics. Any good suggestions?
There is a huge list of things which my wife wants to do at home and have been pending for lack of a drill. Better I get to it before it becomes a full blown crisis. :D
Also, I have seen a device in Home Depot in US which detects studs, electrical wires, plastics and metals behind the wall. This helps to know what's under the wall before drilling it. Anything similar and good available here? I found few on AliExpress but don't want to trust them (yet).
Any inputs appreciated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yieldway17
(Post 4576637)
I'm looking to buy a drill to primarily drill masonry walls, some wood and maybe hard plastics. Any good suggestions? |
Get a Bosch or B&D 550 or 600W hammer drill kit. I prefer mains power drills as cordless drills have batteries that deteriorate over time even if not used. This is from personal experience. If you choose a cordless buy a Li-ion only, not NiCd which are cheaper.
For e.g:
Bosch GSB 600 RE 13mm 600 Watt Smart Drill Kit Quote:
Also, I have seen a device in Home Depot in US which detects studs, electrical wires, plastics and metals behind the wall. This helps to know what's under the wall before drilling it. Anything similar and good available here? I found few on AliExpress but don't want to trust them (yet).
|
You may be referring to this?
Taparia MDT-81 Multi Purpose Digital Line Tester
Guys, I do small home improvement jobs using a drill and 5 mm masonry drill bit. So my knowledge is limited about bit sizes. Now I want to install a TV mount. There is no documentation. I have screws that are 7 mm wide and 5 cm long. The PVC wall plug came with it has number 10 marked on it. It is 10 mm wide. So what size drill bit do I need to buy?
Like Taparia for hand tools, do we have any recommended brand for drill bits?
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipnil
(Post 4576728)
Like Taparia for hand tools, do we have any recommended brand for drill bits? |
Addison drill bits. Should be available in the local hardware shops.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipnil
(Post 4576728)
It is 10 mm wide. So what size drill bit do I need to buy? Like Taparia for hand tools, do we have any recommended brand for drill bits? |
Yes, you need to buy a 10 mm drill bit.
However, if possible also buy a drill bit that is sized 1 mm more (size 11 mm) so the hole made is large enough for the rawl plug to fit snugly into the wall. You may need to tap them into the wall with a hammer. Make sure the hole is deep enough for the screw to fit flush with the wall. It is important as it will bear the weight of the TV.
Buy Addison, B&D or Bosch bits. Addison is prefered. Be sure to get a masonry drill bit.
How large and heavy is the TV you want to wall mount? Normally TV wall mount brackets use metal expansion bolts. They are driven into the wall where an outer jacket expands and grips the inside of the hole giving a very secure hold. At least the ones installed at my home do. In fact, even AC outdoor units are wall mounted with this type of fastener.
Consult a TV installation professional if required.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yieldway17
(Post 4576764)
Thanks for the recommendation. I’m looking for non-cordless ones too, will check Bosch 600 and 550W products. |
Make sure you buy a hammer drill. The hammer function can be switched on and off as required.
Quote:
No, this is a voltage drop line tester. What I was looking for is something like in below link.
|
Prettyia TS79 3 in 1 Stud Finder
or if you have the budget:
Bosch GMS120 Professional Detector
Quote:
Originally Posted by R2D2
(Post 4576776)
Buy Addison, B&D or Bosch bits. Addison is prefered. Be sure to get a masonry drill bit.
How large and heavy is the TV you want to wall mount? Normally TV wall mount brackets use metal expansion bolts. They are driven into the wall where an outer jacket expands and grips the inside of the hole giving a very secure hold. At least the ones installed at my home do. In fact, even AC outdoor units are wall mounted with this type of fastener. |
Thanks R2D2 for the detailed explanation! That really helps.
The TV is not very heavy. I think about 7 kg. I am going to mount it using a swivel mount, which weighs about 4 kg. As this was purchased separately, the free installation would not have covered it. Also, I have had a bad experience of professional installation with Aquaguard RO, when the whole unit came down. The installation done by me afterwards is much better as it going great for last 5 years.
Yes, I remember fastners. In fact now I recall, long back, I had installed one water geyser (with water, weight about 18 kg) with fastners. I think I used 10 mm bit. Need to find that drill bit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipnil
(Post 4576799)
The TV is not very heavy. I think about 7 kg. I am going to mount it using a swivel mount, which weighs about 4 kg. |
If it's just 7 Kgs then the screws should suffice.
Quote:
Yes, I remember fastners. In fact now I recall, long back, I had installed one water geyser (with water, weight about 18 kg) with fastners. I think I used 10 mm bit. Need to find that drill bit.
|
Those expansion bolts are also called anchor bolts. They can support heck of a lot of weight compared to plain screws.
That old drill bit - make sure it's a masonry bit. Metal or wood bits can break when used with a hammer drill. The hammer function makes it much easier and quicker to drill holes into masonry. Of course, it makes a heck of a racket too. :)
Good luck with the DIY project. :thumbs up
Ordinary twist drills will not get far into masonry and are likely to be ruined when trying. The insert in the tip of a masonry bit is something very hard like carbide.
Biggest hint for drilling a hole in a wall and getting it on the right place is to centre-punch first. Otherwise the drill is likely to spin off. Go slow and steady. Use a slow motor speed: just fast enough will do fine.
You do have to push. If you are up a ladder, make sure the ergonomics allow. Make the job easy and safe!
I bought the Bosch GSB 10 RE. That is good enough for most home drilling (I also have a fifty year old Wolf 13mm heavy duty drill, but that is relegated to really heavy duty drilling). Time was when the drill shank had the same diameter as the tip - 10mm for 10mm and 13mm for 13mm. Now a days due to demand by amateurs most of masonry drill bits of larger size come with 10mm shank, so a larger drill is not needed.
I have a large collection of masonry drill bits - 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 16mm amd 20mm both normal length (about 100mm) as well as long ones between 200mm and 300mm length. What I found was that the most used sizes are
6mm & 8mm dia, 100mm long
12mm dia and 200mm long
The former for routine drilling into walls - plugs and anchor bolts, while the latter for drilling through the wall. In some instances where the wall is old (10" + plaster) I use bits that are 300mm long, but that is rare as modern walls are mainly 150mm thick.
If you have a market where building contractors buy stuff - drills, saws, marble cutters etc, you will find Chinese Masonry bits. These are good enough for home use and will cost half to one third of established brands. This is one area where Chinese stuff is excellent.
I thought a torque spanner / wrench from Amazon. It has a torque rating of 28-210 nm. This is kept permanently in my car, to be used in an emergency in case of a puncture. Sometimes it becomes very tiresome to remove / fix a puncture in hot climate. This can be helpful in those times.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruzbehxyz
(Post 4577405)
Sometimes it becomes very tiresome to remove / fix a puncture in hot climate. This can be helpful in those times. |
Not to sound like a killjoy but you are using a wrong tool for the job. i.e. loosening the wheel nut/bolt. A long pipe (2-3 feet) will do that job for you. Insert the pipe into the stock wheel wrench and it'll give you more than adequate leverage to loosen a hard nut.
A torque wrench should NOT be used for loosening fasteners as a really tight nut/bolt will affect the accuracy of the tool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gannu_1
(Post 4577420)
A torque wrench should NOT be used for loosening fasteners as a really tight nut/bolt will affect the accuracy of the tool. |
Thanks for your input. I appreciate it. However please note I have a Ford Endeavour and the wheel nuts are prone to get swollen with time and normal spanners slip when the nuts are required to be opened. So you have to either cut the nuts or use some other tight/loose spanner. This has been reported by many owners and some have got stuck on highways and remote places as well. I believe this problem is there in Ecosport as well. On the other hand, I am also carrying 10 spare wheel nuts in the car as an added safety measure.
Besides this, the torque spanner can also be used to tighten all the wheel nuts exactly to the required amount of torque, which is 135nm in case of the Endeavour. I know 99.99% of tyrewallas and owners use hand spanners + use a pipe and/or leg to tighten further. I don't like it that way and prefer to tighten exactly with the required amount of torque. This even "marginally" effects the wear and tear of the tyre.
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