[Aroy]

Originally Posted by mayankk

Guys, I have a 150 odd bits auto specific toolbox.
It was in a plastic case with depressions to hold the bits.
I tend to keep it in the car, but found that the tools bounced around, and now the inner lining has lost its shape.
the tools just rattle around.
Can anyone suggest a replacement box?
something that will keep the tools in place and stop them from rattling?

These are the options for rejuvenating your old box

- Put a couple of layers of very thin foam at the bottom and top of the tools. That will reduce the rattling

- coat the inner lining with rubber glue and then stick small rubber/foam inserts into each depression. As each depression is separate, you can adjust the thickness of lining for each tool.

The idea is to keep each piece compressed with rubber like material between the box bottom and the lid.

[CrackedHead]

Originally Posted by mayankk

Can anyone suggest a replacement box?
something that will keep the tools in place and stop them from rattling?

Just stuff the box with waste cloth or a thermocole sheet cut to the correct size. That should stop the rattling.

[mayankk]

Yeah ,that is doable ,but I was thinking more along the lines of some sorta box designed to be kept in a car.
Thanks guys.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Horrible boradband problems somehow made this post appear four times, but after editing, the other three disappeared :(. Trying again! ...


I have a very old socket set, but it still has its insert. It is not accurately enough made to keep the sockets in their right place. After several decades of rearanging them every time I moved the box, I thought of using Bluetack to keep them in place.

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by mayankk

Yeah ,that is doable ,but I was thinking more along the lines of some sorta box designed to be kept in a car.
Thanks guys.

There is a pour / spray on foam available, that would be just right for the situation. I have seen that on Discovery turbo.

But I also remember seeing similar thing in Industrial hardware shop in Bangalore.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

... thought of using Bluetack to keep them in place.

What is 'Bluetack'? Is that a (popular) brand for a common material, or is it a material by itself? Even I have a similar problem with the moulded sheet plastic insert in my 25-year old China-made socket set, which has cracked.

[mayankk]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

What is 'Bluetack'? Is that a (popular) brand for a common material, or is it a material by itself? Even I have a similar problem with the moulded sheet plastic insert in my 25-year old China-made socket set, which has cracked.

I assumed it to be like plastiscine, but more refined.
see here:
Genuine Bostick BLU-TACK Acoustic Putty/Adhesive | eBay

[Thad E Ginathom]

...BLU Tack, yes. Never rely on my spelling!

[mohang_j]

Does anybody has any contacts for autodarkening welding helmets. Thinking of buying one.

[drsingh]

Guys,I need help from members who work on bikes.
I have acquired a RE BULLET and had it serviced and brought to running condition.
It was in storage and is rusty.
I intend to take apart the bike. Work on finishing up and touching up the paint and put it together.
after having searched I clearly don't know what all tools I would require.
I am a handyman kinda Guy and buy tools as I need them.
Can somebody list,or provide links to tools needed.

Ring vs open spanners or mixed.?
I really just want to buy stuff I need of good quality and not tool sets!

Thanks!

[DerAlte]

Since you are not doing anything on the engine / gearbox, the tool you will require the most would be the 12/13mm open/ring spanner. Best is to get a set of open spanners in mm sizes (not inches), and a couple of ring spanners in the most used sizes. A good ratchet set is also a good option instead of the ring.

[drsingh]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Since you are not doing anything on the engine / gearbox, the tool you will require the most would be the 12/13mm open/ring spanner. Best is to get a set of open spanners in mm sizes (not inches), and a couple of ring spanners in the most used sizes. A good ratchet set is also a good option instead of the ring.

Thanks for the quick reply.
I am putting together a list :
1.open spanner set
2.ring spanner 12/13
3.soft face hammer (for exhaust and hammering out wheel nuts)
4.wd 40 or zorrik
5.nylon cable ties
6.electrical tape
7.vaseline
8.cotton rags
9.dolomite powder
10.canned black paint
11.sand paper/steel wool
12.grease (what ño. do I need? For lubrication of chain and wheel)
13.t-bar with needed sockets
14.I own screwdrivers,hammers,small and large adjustable wrenches,pliers,wire stripper,hacksaw, cutters.


- is there some chemical solution or recipe to dip nuts and bolts? To remove oxidation and rust?
- I came across chrome paint (canned) .is it of any use?
- can canned paint be polished on? Or will it just come off?
- can I use vaseline to lubricate nuts and bolts or is it a bad idea?
- is locktite or similar solution necessary for assembling the bike?
-I've noticed some hairpin like metal pins locking the screws on wheels.what are they called?
-can I spray canned paint on the exhaust bend? And chromed silencer? Or do I need to sand off the chrome?

Thanks in advance!
Hoping for quick replies from the DIY community!

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by drsingh

7.vaseline

I used to use petroleum jelly for battery terminals , later used thick wheel bearing grease ( High melting point ) for the same purpose , but nowadays the new gen batteries hardly need such things .

9.dolomite powder

this is new to me ,can you explain the purpose ?

12.grease (what ño. do I need? For lubrication of chain and wheel)

There are two types commonly used 1) Multi purpose 2 ) wheel bearing , third is less known /available - chassis grease
Keep a small grease gun , with multi purpose grease
Also I used to ( & still do ) clean the chain throughly with kerosene , blow the remains out by pressurised air , hang it for few hours to let it completely dry of Kerosene & then dip it in molten grease over night , wipe & fit on bike .
For normal running use SAE 40 grade engine oil to lubricate every 1000 km

- is there some chemical solution or recipe to dip nuts and bolts? To remove oxidation and rust?

Try Phospheting chemicals

- can I use vaseline to lubricate nuts and bolts or is it a bad idea?

Try chassis grease

Thanks in advance!
Hoping for quick replies from the DIY community!

Have left some room for others to answer your other queries , Ohh you forgot one important thing , keep 12 v 10 watt test bulb along with long wires in the kit , it helps sorting out electrical problems .

BTW check this link >>http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-te...ls-thread.html Might be Interesting for you .

Sudarshan

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

... Try Phospheting chemicals ...

Best would be to dismantle the leader pipe and the silencer and get it chrome plated at an industrial chrome plating unit. Painting pipes that get really hot is not correct.

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

... keep 12 v 10 watt test bulb along with long wires in the kit , it helps sorting out electrical problems ...

Good idea, though I am not sure about the voltage - used to be 6V earlier. Best is to get a spare tail lamp bulb and a socket, to which you can connect the long wires.

Originally Posted by drsingh

... 13.t-bar with needed sockets
...
- is there some chemical solution or recipe to dip nuts and bolts? To remove oxidation and rust?
- I came across chrome paint (canned) .is it of any use?
- can canned paint be polished on? Or will it just come off?
...
- is locktite or similar solution necessary for assembling the bike?
-I've noticed some hairpin like metal pins locking the screws on wheels.what are they called?
-can I spray canned paint on the exhaust bend? And chromed silencer? Or do I need to sand off the chrome? ...

* A ratchet set would give you more mechanical advantage and flexibility than the t-rod
* WD40 works well on rusted nuts & bolts
* Chrome paint is no good, the end result is ugly. Better to get it chrome plated
* Canned paint works like any other sprayed paint if sprayed on a well-prepared dry surface. Once it dries, one can use wet emery paper to polish it and prepare for another coat. A good glossy surface needs multiple coats with polishing between coats, with a final transparent gloss coat, which is then wax-polished to high gloss. Canned paint is not economical for large surfaces though - a good paint shop will do it for far less, and do a better job
* Don't use loctite, unless you are sure you won't need to open it again. Lock washers, the split ring or star type, are good enough to hold nuts in place
* The 'hairpin' like thingy is a 'cotter pin', 'hairpin cotter pin' or 'R-pin'. This prevents the nut from coming out completely - in situations where the nut coming out can lead to a catastrophe
* Don't use spray paint on the exhaust components - the organic part will slowly char into an unsightly messy surface. Get the parts chromed

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Good idea, though I am not sure about the voltage - used to be 6V earlier.

This mainly depends on the battery / system voltage .
Also one cant use a 6v test bulb on 12 v systems but a 12 v can be used on 6 v
yes using tail Lamp socket is a worth Idea

here is a pic of test bulb I use
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-te...ml#post2076758

* Don't use loctite, unless you are sure you won't need to open it again.

They have a range of products , will post the brochure here ,Yes Loctite can be used but need to choose the correct application ( product )

Sudarshan