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As an alternative, who should I call if I want to have the wiring in an old house inspected? A contractor? An electrical engineer? There has to be someone who inspects and approves electrical installations in commercial buildings /real estate projects?

Little sparking at the point of contact of the brushes/commutator is fine, the intensity of which increases with speed but there should be no burning smell. It is possible that the brushes are worn down. Have it checked or replace the brushes yourself.

Sparks are normal at the contact points. Happens in mixie also, but we don't see it as it is closed in a good looking enclosure. Don't worry. Just use the machine. Mild smell after a good run of the machine is also normal. Don't panic until you don't see heavy fumes like from a cigarette.

Araldite seemed to work until disaster stuck in the form of regular service. I got the car back minus the broken piece. The SA first said he will glue the center console shut permanently :Shockked: but after I stood my ground, he promised me a replacment or alternative. I don't have high hopes and think I'll have to fabricate the part myself. Here is the pic after the araldite fix.

Your best bet would be some experienced electrician. There are licenced electricians authorized by the local electricity board.

Replaced the chuck on my 11 year old drill:







Took 10 minutes to replace the old chuck.

And fixed a pair of clothes hook for hanging utensils and large spoons:



But few spoons had their holes small so wouldn't go. What type of bits should I use for drilling into SS material?

Guys any idea if I can replace the chuck of my current hammer drill with one that comes with a torque limiter or slipping clutch? Is there a way to do it and where can I get a chuck like the ones that come on the cordless guns?

I currently own two hammer drills out of which I want to convert one to the above setup so that I can use it to loosen and tighten nuts, bolts and screws. I am doing it now too but I want the torque to be limited so that the thread isnt damaged due to excess torque. Though I am using it carefully now at a very slow speed, I dont want to create more harm than good.

Since you have to only enlarge the holes you can do it with standard HS Drills at medium speed but be careful and hold the spoon in a vice with some packing as the drill bit might catch.

That looks like a glue job that really ought to have worked! There is plenty of surface area, and the surfaces were probably (should have been) slightly rough.

Is the broken piece permanently lost now, or can you have another go?

Another possibility with plastic parts like this in incorporating reinforcement. You can drill small holes, either side of the join, the right distance apart for a staple, and glue staples in place

That is what I have done here. you can see the line under the glue. Yes, I know, no marks for neatness, or even tidying up here! But, although it would have been good if I have done it neatly, if there is room, a layer of glue around the join helps support it.







You can see a little of the staple sticking out to the left here. Would have been a good idea to do that both sides and fold it over.

The glue is J-B Weld, another two-part epoxy, more like a metal. Stronger than Araldyte.

Tried it with an HSS drill at different speed settings and nothing happened. HSS is a no go with SS.

Then you have to search for a Cobalt Drill bit. Did you use a very sharp HSS? Another easy way would be to enlarge the existing hole with a die grinder since perfect roundness is not required. Do you have a Dremel?

HI Jaguar, Sorry to hear about that. But I am clueless about which part of the car it is. Could you please post a picture of the entire part from a little distance?

Most of the Electricians who do house wiring have (or have access to some one who has) a license for both installation and then certifying the wiring. Contact them.

Alternatively you can contact and insurance house hold agent. They generally know a licensed inspector.

This should help.

http://youtu.be/NtqXlOX_kF4

I used to be a professional driller. Well, to be more accurate, a semi-skilled factory worker and, yes, it was very boring :uncontrol

A good HSS drill should drill stainless, but the task is likely to be both difficult and somewhat dangerous. Not only is the material hard to begin with, but it gets harder as one drills into it. I actually left one job because I had to drill three holes each in 3,000 small Stainless-steel rods, and the prospect was too depressing.

Catching/snatching is very possible, especially trying to enlarge an existing hole. There is also the chance of breaking the drill bit. This is not to be done without eye protection, and preferably full-face protection.

Try... a small file!

I would like your input on the video I just posted above. Basically the premise is to either use lubricant to reduce friction or to periodically cool the drill bit using water. I'm about to attempt something similar.