Team-BHP - Tools for a DIYer
Team-BHP

Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
-   DIY - Do it yourself (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do-yourself/)
-   -   Tools for a DIYer (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do-yourself/88566-tools-diyer-65.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaguar (Post 3687055)
Guys, what is the best glue available for plastic?

The latch for my car's armrest is broken and Hyundai will only repair the entire assembly for some 7k :Frustrati I tried using feviquick but it is not strong enough.

Hello, Could you please post a pic of the broken part. Many a times I try to recreate such small broken plastic parts with think sheets of Aluminium or MS lying around in my tool box itself. Those parts outlive the gadget where it is installed. You may give this method a try. Still, a picture would be good to suggest some alternative.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajaypjayaraj (Post 3687203)
Try Epoxy resin glue with hardener (Dual component type). Hardener will be in separate tube which you have to mix as per the quantity you need. I don't know where you could find it in India. If you could find it, those will be the best.

Ask for Araldite.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilangop (Post 3687269)
Ask for Araldite.

Thanks. Just checked and found that araldite has many double component epoxy based adhesives. Nowadays I think many stores sell the single tube ones like quick fix. It would be better to find the double tube epoxy based one. Those should do the job better. Adding a supporting material would add to the bonding strength like you said.

Epoxy adhesives work extremely well with plastic but there are a few prerequisites - the bonding surfaces have to be cleaned thoroughly and the two parts have to be held together for a while using strong clamps (like crocodile clips) until the glue dries. Unlike cyanoacrylate adhesives like Fevikwik which bonds in an instant.

I'd recommend Araldite going by my experience.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilangop (Post 3687269)
Hello, Could you please post a pic of the broken part. Many a times I try to recreate such small broken plastic parts with think sheets of Aluminium or MS lying around in my tool box itself. Those parts outlive the gadget where it is installed. You may give this method a try. Still, a picture would be good to suggest some alternative.

Ask for Araldite.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajaypjayaraj (Post 3687328)
Thanks. Just checked and found that araldite has many double component epoxy based adhesives. Nowadays I think many stores sell the single tube ones like quick fix. It would be better to find the double tube epoxy based one. Those should do the job better. Adding a supporting material would add to the bonding strength like you said.

I have used Araldite (the regular 2 part resin+hardener version) to fix a broken metal mount for my ORVM a year ago and its still going great. If it works wonders on metal, don't see a reason why it wouldn't work on plastic!

As Gannu said, clean and rough up the surface, preferably with a 100grit sandpaper of the area which will be applied with araldite.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaguar (Post 3687055)
Guys, what is the best glue available for plastic?

Have you tried Araldite Klar. You get it in Hardware shops. Small pack cost Rs. 32. You have two tubes, you have to mix both in similar quantity wait for 30 sec and apply it to surface. Hold it for a minute.

Mix the Araldite tubes on a piece of cardboard with the help of a toothpick.Join the two cleaned surfaces with a thin coat of Araldite mixture. Do not use too much of the epoxy - just a light coat. Hold the two broken pieces together with tape, or string or some fixture and make sure that it is not moved for at least 24 hrs. If possible, place it beside a 60W lamp-this will cure the epoxy. After 24 hrs. mix some more of the Araldite and make a thin film all around the crack. Again use very little or it will drip while drying. Wait again for 24 hrs.Now you can use the item with confidence.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom (Post 3687132)
I use something called UHU Allplast

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajaypjayaraj (Post 3687328)
It would be better to find the double tube epoxy based one. Those should do the job better. Adding a supporting material would add to the bonding strength like you said.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RaguHolla (Post 3687376)
Have you tried Araldite Klar.

Quote:

Originally Posted by techiecal (Post 3687382)
Mix the Araldite tubes on a piece of cardboard with the help of a toothpick....Now you can use the item with confidence.

Thanks for your responses. I will try Araldite and get back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilangop (Post 3687269)
Hello, Could you please post a pic of the broken part. Many a times I try to recreate such small broken plastic parts with think sheets of Aluminium or MS lying around in my tool box itself. Those parts outlive the gadget where it is installed. You may give this method a try. Still, a picture would be good to suggest some alternative.

Ask for Araldite.

Will post a pic. These are the times I wish I had a 3d printer. The part is a small plastic and can easily be recreated if one had the resources.

Is there a standard ISI or BSI code for standard electrical installations in India?

A handbook like the American Electrical Code?

If yes where can I access it from (govt. Website, published handbooks)

If no, is there a compact handbook for reference in the Indian context?

Thanks in advance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by drsingh (Post 3686075)
Where can I find end connectors like these? And what crimping tool do I need to use these?

Attachment 1360904

You need to buy a D Sub Crimping tool and like others said its available in major eletrical shops who are dealing with cables and sockets. But mostly they have only for thicker cables. Recently I bought one from Ebay but yet to test it as the sockets are on the way from Aliexpress:)

Here's the link from Ebay
http://www.ebay.in/itm/Network-Termi...item3cf7375990

Tools for a DIYer-d-sub-crimping-tool.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by sajjt (Post 3687988)

You need to buy a D Sub Crimping tool and like others said its available in major eletrical shops who are dealing with cables and sockets. But mostly they have only for thicker cables. Recently I bought one from Ebay but yet to test it as the sockets are on the way from Aliexpress:)

Here's the link from Ebay
http://www.ebay.in/itm/Network-Termi...item3cf7375990

Looking forward to your feedback on these. :)

Would appreciate if you could share the aliexpress link too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sajjt (Post 3687988)
You need to buy a D Sub Crimping tool and like others said its available in major eletrical shops who are dealing with cables and sockets. But mostly they have only for thicker cables. Recently I bought one from Ebay but yet to test it as the sockets are on the way from Aliexpress:)

Here's the link from Ebay
http://www.ebay.in/itm/Network-Termi...item3cf7375990

Attachment 1361619

I have seen both the sockets and the crimping tool in a few shops in Nehru Place. These were in shops which sell connectors, and other small components - fans, cable ties etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by drsingh (Post 3687845)
Is there a standard ISI or BSI code for standard electrical installations in India?

A handbook like the American Electrical Code?

If yes where can I access it from (govt. Website, published handbooks)

If no, is there a compact handbook for reference in the Indian context?

Thanks in advance.

Anybody? No DIY electricians on board? :)

So I just received the Bosch GSB 13 RE impact drill. I plugged it in to see the variable speed thing works and to my surprise I saw sparking inside the drill and there was a burning smell also.

Everytime I run it there are sparks. I'm a first time drill user so is this normal or do I have a bad drill? Sparking happens only in the drill, it doesn't come out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fine69 (Post 3693461)
So I just received the Bosch GSB 13 RE impact drill. I plugged it in to see the variable speed thing works and to my surprise I saw sparking inside the drill and there was a burning smell also.

Everytime I run it there are sparks. I'm a first time drill user so is this normal or do I have a bad drill? Sparking happens only in the drill, it doesn't come out.

Minor sparks inside the drill should be fine. The spark happens at the contact points of carbon brushes. I see sparks in my new Cordless drill, but no sparks in my old Black n Decker impact drill. So I guess once the brushes are well seated, the sparks might disappear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fine69 (Post 3693461)
So I just received the Bosch GSB 13 RE impact drill. I plugged it in to see the variable speed thing works and to my surprise I saw sparking inside the drill and there was a burning smell also.

Everytime I run it there are sparks. I'm a first time drill user so is this normal or do I have a bad drill? Sparking happens only in the drill, it doesn't come out.

Its normal at higher speeds. This happens near the bush as stated by holyghost and I have observed it in both my GSB 13 RE as well as my Skil 550. Since the shaft of the motor is not connected permanently the bushes keep rubbing the shaft while providing current to it. In this process sparks or an Arc of electricity is produced which increases as you run it at higher speed.


All times are GMT +5.5. The time now is 22:32.