Team-BHP - The Official non-auto Image thread

Quote:

Originally Posted by shazikon (Post 439391)

But if i use ISO 100, wont the picture be dark. if i use ISO 100, i would have to use smaller fstops around f3.5 and longer shutter speed?
I am also confused .. why would DOF come here since moon is at infinity. i guess tsk1979 was telling about the having a smaller aperture reducing the exposure.

The exposure value is a combination of ISO/aperture/speed. Keep the camera in aperture priority. At longest setting, what is you max aperture? Use that. Set ISO 100 and see what shutter speed is recommended by your metering. I don't know how partial metering works, mine has spot metering.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellwratH (Post 439323)

shazikon,

Whoa, thats an awesome pic. :), I will have to meet rjstyles and you to get some gyaan on photography as a newbie. Would have gone to Rudra sir, but I still need to do a LOT before I can go n ask for help from him. :)

Hi Hellwrath.. i am also a student.. learning to be a better photographer in what ever little time i get from my schedules. If you really want to understand and learn photgraphy get a DSLR its costly but well worth it, you will be amazed by what more you can do with it. I would be glad to share with you my thoughts but for more complex issues we can always ask Rudra.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Samurai (Post 439353)

This one begs for spot metering. Spot meter the brightest part of the moon and then overexpose by 2 stops. Keep ISO at 100, and aperture at max.

How lower apertures will effect this shot tanveer? The moon obviously is at infinity, so DOF is also at infinity.

Well the moon is a sun lit subject, so if you want to correctly expose the moon you should expose like you were exposing say in early evening.
As for F8 it will effect sharpness because non L glass is not sharp at widest aperture. If you look at the kit lens too at 18mm, you will see that the sharpest spot will be F-8 or F-9. This is called sweet spot
In a 80-210 lens to get any appreciable detail from moon, you will put a 100% crop, so sharpness is very very important

Quote:

Originally Posted by Samurai (Post 439402)

Using in camera metering for moon is not a good idea. I always use manual settings. For example the shot below
Exposure Time0.005s (1/200), Aperturef/8.0, ISO100, Focal Length300mm (480mm in 35mm)

F8 is not the sweet spot of the el cheapo 75-300mm USM III. Its around F10/F11. With that Aperture I can get sharper shots
Another one(Click on image for Exif)

Quote:

Originally Posted by shazikon (Post 439405)

True shazikon, but without an eye for capturing the right thing, there's no point buying a DSLR. Ansel Adams didn't have a DSLR... :D... And right now, I can't afford a DSLR. :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Samurai (Post 439402)

Keep the camera in aperture priority. At longest setting, what is you max aperture? .

The max aperture supported by my camera is f91.. but my lens (tamron 80-210) supports only upto f/5.6 and for this shot i was using the max (smallest opening of aperture) i.e f/5.6. so i would have to set the focal length atleast 3 stops less than max to get the sweet spot??

Quote:

Originally Posted by shazikon (Post 439446)

but my lens (tamron 80-210) supports only upto f/5.6 and for this shot i was using the max (smallest opening of aperture) i.e f/5.6. so i would have to set the focal length atleast 3 stops less than max to get the sweet spot??

Max goes the other way, lower the F value, bigger the aperture. For example, F2.8 is max and F22 is min.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979 (Post 439414)

As for F8 it will effect sharpness because non L glass is not sharp at widest aperture. If you look at the kit lens too at 18mm, you will see that the sharpest spot will be F-8 or F-9. This is called sweet spot
In a 80-210 lens to get any appreciable detail from moon, you will put a 100% crop, so sharpness is very very important

So it is a lens specific thing. I am not familiar with this lens.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979 (Post 439414)

That's because you don't have spot metering, Mr.CanonIsTheBest.rl:

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellwratH (Post 438977)

Regarding the post processing, Do you mean to say like the blue which was fixed by rjstyles was the original color and was misinterpreted by the camera? Please let me know on this one. Thanks.

Original = as seen by naked eye?

you shud not even care about that. with filters and other gadgetry, you can create much better shots than what you can see with naked eye.

so in short, camera can either improve or degrade the image quality depending on your skills. same goes with post processing. I think Rudra said in his posts much earlier somewhere that there is nothing like a perfect shot. you can drastically underexpose a picture and still make it win the contests.

and you are worried about matching the original. :p

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979 (Post 439479)

Well there is partial... Good photographers need only partial.Like canonians. And canon can click ISO 800 shots too so you don't always need the tripod for the moon :p

My long lens has same sharpness along different apertures and FLs. The chart shows in line widths per picture height (LW/PH) which can be taken as a quantity for sharpness.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellwratH (Post 439499)

Err.. My canon does have spot metering. :D

I was referring to dSLR, only 30D and above has Spot metering in Canon.

This photo was taken during my previous trek to Kumara Parvatha. I have trekked to this peak 5 times, am so addicted to the bearuty of this place, that its almost like a pilgrimage every year. the first trek of the season has to be to KP. This shot was taken early in the morning on the way down after camping overnight on the peak. you can see layers upon layers of green covered ranges..