Team-BHP - The DSLR Thread

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Hi,

I am planing to replace my Panasonic FZ35 Pro zoom-er Camera with the DSLR. I have shortlisted 3 DSLR Cameras as stated below:

1) Nikon D3100
2) Canon T1i (500D)
3) Canon T2i(550D)

I need features which are similar to my FZ35 with at-least HD (1280x720) video recording like the FZ35. I am replacing FZ35 due to noise in image quality..otherwise its the best pro zoom-er camera.

I normally capture home function party, macro, party and landscapes. Will the kit(18-55mm) lens be able to captured sharp and clear picture or should i buy Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 VC?

Kindly help me select the right DSLR and proper lens for above requirement.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gurudatta Nayak (Post 2238297)

.....
I normally capture home function party, macro, party and landscapes. Will the kit(18-55mm) lens be able to captured sharp and clear picture or should i buy Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 VC?...

You need to consider the MFT/EVIL cameras!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gurudatta Nayak (Post 2238297)

Hi,

I am planing to replace my Panasonic FZ35 Pro zoom-er Camera with the DSLR. I have shortlisted 3 DSLR Cameras as stated below:

1) Nikon D3100
2) Canon T1i (500D)
3) Canon T2i(550D)

Also check out the Pentax k-x

Quote:

I need features which are similar to my FZ35 with at-least HD (1280x720) video recording like the FZ35. I am replacing FZ35 due to noise in image quality..otherwise its the best pro zoom-er camera.

I normally capture home function party, macro, party and landscapes. Will the kit(18-55mm) lens be able to captured sharp and clear picture or should i buy Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 VC?

Kindly help me select the right DSLR and proper lens for above requirement.

Video recording in DSLR heats up the sensor, so this should not be used for too long (that is what I have heard). It is fine for 5-10 minutes at a go, and in any case an overheat automatic warning is there in most cams.

Going by Video quality, I guess 550D would be the best. Also check the 600D if you're willing to wait (it is in preorder, IIRC).

Regarding lens - I doubt that this lens would be able to do everything you want, but you do need a fast lens which this is. The kit lens will not perform as well in low light.

In addition, you might want to consider some lens in the 55-135 zoom range to capture close-ups etc. This can probably be purchased later.

Better to decide on the camera system (Canon/Nikon/Pentax etc) and then post lens queries. Also for amateur photography, any of the above systems are great.

Quote:

Originally Posted by W.A.G.7 (Post 2233659)

Now just two more questions, how are Sony α DSLRs? I mean I haven't heard of anyone using Sony DSLR's but there must be someone out there who has used them. Canon and Nikon names seem to be synonymous with the DSLRs, atleast in India. And to add a twist to it, there now the DSLT technology, so has anyone seen or used sony α 33 or α 55? The reviews are average for sony α55 DSLT on dpreview.com.

Read this review on Sony Alpha A55 by National Geographic Photographer Ben Horton. :)

Nat Geo Shooter Ben Horton Reviews the Sony A55*|*Photocine News

@abhinavm,
Thanks, your post does put things in perspective. However, before launching a product I would expect some information on an impending release. But then, as you have pointed out there is nothing fundamentally new.

@Ricky,
I am a novice on a DSLR itself. It is better therefore that I take advice from you. :)

What is MFT?

EVIL Camera's will be similar to my Panasonic FZ35.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkr2k2 (Post 2238312)

You need to consider the MFT/EVIL cameras!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gurudatta Nayak (Post 2238626)

What is MFT?

MFT = Micro Four Thirds. These are EVIL cameras as well.
EVIL = Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens. Sensor sizes can be different under these.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gurudatta Nayak (Post 2238626)

EVIL Camera's will be similar to my Panasonic FZ35.

Two questions:
1. What is the size of the sensor on the FZ35?
2. Can you change lenses on your FZ35?

:) I guess you know where I am going.

hi all,while buying a 70-300 which feature is important IS or USM? i mean image stabilizer or Faster autofocus?

Quote:

Originally Posted by joshguy (Post 2239608)

hi all,while buying a 70-300 which feature is important IS or USM? i mean image stabilizer or Faster autofocus?

For action shots, USM will help. While the IS helps you take pics with less shake at considerably lower shutter speeds than non-IS lenses!!

Choose according to your requirement. If you have the moolah by a lens with both USM and IS!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by joshguy (Post 2239608)

hi all,while buying a 70-300 which feature is important IS or USM? i mean image stabilizer or Faster autofocus?

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkr2k2 (Post 2239661)

Apart from what already stated, USM lens has very low motor whine/noise as well which become critical while shooting in the wild. A little extra noise can scare away an animal/bird.

BTW what have you shortlisted?

Quote:

Originally Posted by joshguy (Post 2239608)

hi all,while buying a 70-300 which feature is important IS or USM? i mean image stabilizer or Faster autofocus?

Either both or none and thats why lens manufacturer make them that way.
Canon IS USM , Sigma OS HSM go hand in hand for telephoto these days.

There are some lenses which do not have IS but only USM but mostly macro and short focal length such as Canon 100 F2.8 Macro USM.

Lets see why , USM/HSM means faster Auto Focus , You will need fast AF for something like a moving bird / running kid /pets etc. So for something which is moving fast to frame it better you can not just tighten the clamp of your tripod head and wait for subject to arrive in frame.

This means either hand held or a loosened tripod head which needs very fast shutter speed which in turn means either a very bright day or larger Aperture to keep light metering same or meaning $$$.
So here steps in the IS/OS and you can still shoot with up to three stops lower ( with corresponding change in shutter speed of-course)

You can in fact choose to shoot with small aperture to give high DOF with High shutter speed on a bright sunny day with lens firmly tightened on tripod anticipate the movement to prefocus and click when subject is framed properly and you then you don't need IS and USM if you have skills to do this properly have a lot of patience and don't regret the missed shots.

Now if you have a fast USM AF, wide aperture , High FL and IS it is best of the world but that comes in white color at sky high price :D

Guys, suggest me a telephoto zoom lens and a macro lens. Canon IS only. No Vitamin M for USM.

And how would a 50mm fit here?

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRIV3R (Post 2239739)

Guys, suggest me a telephoto zoom lens and a macro lens. Canon IS only. No Vitamin M for USM.

And how would a 50mm fit here?

The only two budget Canon telephoto lenses are Canon 55-250 IS @10.5 K and next is Canon 70-300 IS USM at around 32K

No vitamin M ? No issues for macro you can still get macros with larger enlargement then dedicated macro but with great difficulty of use.
Forget about a dedicated macro lens and buy a manual extension tube set at around 400-700 rupees , A reverse mount adapter for 350Rs and try various combinations with 50mm lens to get upto 2X macro.

Either your lens should have a full manual aperture setting or you need to set Aperture value then press DOF button and release lens before mounting it on ET or reverse it for macro.

As this is cumbersome I would suggest you but an Old Helios 44-M M42 full manual lens at around 1K rupees or any other manual 50mm Lens for this purpose.

But all this rig is required if you have real interest in taking extreme macros like insects , butterflies etc else forget about it.

A fit all solution is Sigma 70-300 APO DG which is telephoto + a psudo macro 1:2 and next is Sigma 70-300 OS at double the price.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRIV3R (Post 2239739)

Guys, suggest me a telephoto zoom lens and a macro lens. Canon IS only. No Vitamin M for USM.

55-250 IS.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRIV3R (Post 2239739)

And how would a 50mm fit here?

It is a prime lens which on a cropped sensor DSLR body can be used as a Portrait lens. It can be reversed and used as macro lens too!! But I am not sure about the magnification.

EDIT:

Quote:

Originally Posted by amitk26 (Post 2239748)

No vitamin M ?
......... reverse it for macro.

As this is cumboresome I would suggest you but an Old Helios 44-M M42 full manual lens at around 1K rupees or any other manual 50mm Lens for this purpose.

Great suggestion there!!

A must read for beginners into Macro photography(IMO):

Quote:

Originally Posted by hensil

There are different ways to shoot macro pictures. The easiest and least expensive is to add a diopter in front of your existing lens 18-105. This is nothing but a magnifying glass that can be fitted in front of your lens like a filter. The diopter comes in different power to get different magnification. The quality is not got great but still acceptable. There are better diaopter manufactured by Canon and Nikon that gives good quality but the cost is so high that you can buy a dedicated macro lens. This is where a lens like 50mm with large aperture comes handy. You can attach the 50mm in reverse via reversing ring in front of your 18-105 and get good magnification. The 50mm works like a high quality diaopter. The drawback is you get vignette (dark circular band) around the pictures because the back side of the 50mm has a small circular lens.

You can also use 50mm directly in reverse on the camera mount, but here you need to get this reversing mount.

Another option is to use a device (extenders) to move your lens further away from your sensor. The further the lens the closer you can focus. The drawback is you lose infinity focus. That means if you are shooting macro and then if you see an elephant you cannot focus on it until you remove the extender and connect the lens directly to the mount. The amount of magnification depends on the focal length of the lens and the amount of extension. That means if you are using a 50mm lens and the extender is 50mm in length then you get magnification of life size. That is the size of the subject you shoot will fill the size of your sensor.

Then of course you have dedicated macro lens. Macro lens is just like your normal lens but has an extender built in.

In all the above method the best way to focus your subject is not in auto focus (even with the best macro lens) but manually. When reversing the lens you have to focus by moving your camera back and forth. Also to remember that while shooting in macro there is loss of light because the light has to travel a greater distance to reach the sensor due to extensions used. This is not a problem with diaopters. Another big factor to consider is the narrow depth of field you get while shooting macro. To get some depth in focus of your subject you need to stop down (small opening of the aperture) to f/16 or above. For this you need lot of light or use an external flash. Also a tripod is mandatory to keep your camera still.

All the best.

Henry

Source: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...tml#post573176

Thanks amit and kkr2k2. Appreciate your suggestions. :)