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Verbatim is not an approved card for the D3200 or for most other Nikons I would imagine. Advise you to buy only approved cards (Panasonic, Lexar, Sandisk, Toshiba per the manual) as they guarantee max compatibility and performance with the camera. Out of all these, preferably choose Lexar or SanDisk. They are the best IMO.

Did you format the card in the camera or a PC?

I formatted the card in camera and PC both by now.

What kind of speed you are getting while writing big files to the card from your pc?

And the time you mentioned was for saving raw or jpeg or both?

Always format the card in the camera. Quoting from page 19 of the owners manual - "Memory cards must be formatted before first use or after being formatted in other devices. Format the card as described below."

As CM asks, check the write speeds on your PC with a good card reader. If you are getting slow writes on your PC then the card is definitely a suspect.

What you can do is if you are using RAW+JPG option, use only JPG to speed up writes. A 24 MP camera will generate pretty large files especially RAW.

Is there a possibility of returning this card to your dealer and exchanging it for one of the approved cards? If not, whenever it is possible for you, buy an approved card and use this particular card as a backup.

Remember - stay far away from unapproved brands especially Transcend, Kingston etc.

I think i will have to check the speed first then decide further options.

Any applications for speed testing for mac?

Time mentioned is for jpeg only and will have to check the speed.

Try this Mac App Store - Blackmagic Disk Speed Test

It's free.

Frankly, if the performance of 7-12 secs is for JPG only, that card deserves to be returned to the dealer ASAP.

Thanks for the link.

Pls refer to screen shots.

Left is Lexar Class 4 4GB and Right is Verbatim Class 10 32GB.

This is not a indicative comparison.

You need to compare a Sandisk or Lexar Class 10 32GB with your Verbatim Class 10 32GB.

Card size should be the same as data allocation unit size (cluster size) make a big difference to read and write speeds.

@R2D2: Can you clarify that with an example?

Here you go:

PerformanceTest FAQ - Factors Which May Affect Disk Test Results

And this is also based on my experience on the computer hardware side starting in the early 90s including hardware assembly. This kind of performance impact was very noticeable as the world shifted from FAT/FAT32 to NTFS and other advanced files systems such as HPFS (IBM OS/2) as a result of Windows NT. The cluster sizes reduced from 1K to 512b, (for the small hard disk of the late 90s when a 4GB HDD was considered enormous) and started affecting boot up and read/write times.

I continue to build machines even today as a hobby when I am not working on the software engineering side. :)

PS - Other than the capability to use larger hard disks by NTFS/HPFS and their ilk, one of the main advantages of smaller clusters is lower fragmentation of the HDD plus file system security afforded by the new FS. This was very noticeable as we moved from FAT/FAT32 to NTFS.

I never understood this SD card class funda(4,6,10 etc). common sense tells that higher the class, better(hence faster)

But in reality what matters is the speed figures that the manufacturer shares in the specs

For example, class 10 verbatim SD card would have a speed of 10MB/s and this is very low compared to 30MB/s speed of class 6 SanDisk extreme.

Samsung class 6 SD card specs talk about about 24MB/s

Confusing indeed

Not confusing when you consider that the Class ratings are the minimum write speeds and all mfrs are free to exceed those ratings. Also, the write speeds are under 'standard test' conditions.

Cards can turn out to become substantial investments in terms of cost and format.

That's why it is important to:

a) Check the camera manual for recommended cards and buy only those cards.

b) Buy from reputed and authorised dealers ONLY. There are many fakes cards floating in the market, especially Ebay. See here

Fake SanDisk Ultra II SD cards revealed!

c) Do your home work. Check reviews on the net. For e.g. here:

Rob Galbraith DPI: Nikon D800/D800E

http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/mul...e.asp?cid=6007

This is a list of cards both CF and SD whose performance has been checked on the D800. You can use it draw your own judgements as well. There are performance tables with other cameras in the drop down. Most photographers and Nikon/Canon always recommend Lexar and Sandisk. Other brands are a hit and miss unless approved by the camera mfr.

Hope this helps.

I am looking for a budget telephoto lens for my D 40. I have shortlisted two:
Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro
and
Nikon AF Zoom-Nikkor 70-300mm f/4-5.6G

Among these two, which is better? Is there any other lens I should look at this price point?
Any help\pointers will be much appreciated.

Which Nikon would be an appropriate step-up from a D40: D90, D7000 or D5100? General purpose shooting, better low-light shots being a priority.

Hey! I'm planning to get Canon EF-S 18-200mm lens for my 550D.

Does anyone know where can I get it at the cheapest rate? I've searched online but most of them are very expensive.

It would be great if you guys can tell me about any online shop(Ebay is also fine), or any shop in Delhi where I can get this lens.

PS: I don't mind buying the lens with a USA warranty.