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I have a D40 bought used, willing to sell and I would be happy to buy a D70 used against it.

Thanks for the links. I will go through them.

Yes. I need to plan accordingly.

As far as rest of the accessories are concerned , just buy extra batteries , a basic UV filter and a simple tripod. It should suffice for a long time.

D5200 is one generation old, and I would not suggest buying that just to save money.

Get the D3300 as the first DSLR. Instead of spending more money on a body, spend it on lenses, or better still on a trip where you can shoot. The life of a consumer DSLR body is one year and then there is an upgrade.

The reason for getting the D3300 is that it is the latest, but at a lower cost. Fsater processor, faster burst rate and better sensor. If you master it, you will know exactly what you need, if you get tired of DSLR (and more than 90% buyers do), you will have spent less on a whim, that did not come through.

I may be wrong, but isn't the D3xxx beginners series, D5xxx midway and D7xxx high end?

Batteries definitely. With my laziness and memory, I need some backup. :uncontrol

Pardon my ignorance, what does an UV filter do and where does it go?

Thanks again for the info. :thumbs up

Feel free to ask anything , I am no expert but there are a lot of people who can help you make wise choices . UV filter goes in front of your lens. You can attach it by screwing it to the lens. Prevents lens from getting scratched. There are several types of filters available , but don't worry about it now.

Just get a decent filter that fits your kit lens . What cameras do your friends use ? Nikon or Cannon ? Most of my friends use Nikon , so I can share lenses with them, or sometimes they borrow my camera . We found it pretty easier, that way and none of us had to invest hugely on lenses or camera bodies .

Thanks man.

I have been doing research all day on DSLR's in general and how to use them. I checked out D3300 and D5200 and found a very noticeable difference. The ISO rating of D3300 is as follows "ISO in Steps of 1 EV (200 - 6400)" while in D5200 it is "ISO 100-6400". Does the word "Steps" cause any difference here?

Actual usable ISO is around 3200 in both cameras. Too grainy beyond that. So not much difference in terms of low light performance.

EDIT : Nice tool to see performance at various ISO levels:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikon-d3300/11

@satansvalet - between those two, note the ISO 100 vs ISO 200 difference.

Both have ISO 100 (actually these are same camera, features have been "disabled" in D3300 / D3200 due to commercial reasons).

Sorry, but I disagree. What you are describing is incremental, because we are just following the moor's law
With new libraries and 15-18nm technology this will keep happening.

If you want to know innovation... there are very few examples.

For example, removal of mirror in digital, quite and obvious thing to do, which led to the birth of EVIL, is innovation.

Then Panasonic GH4 is innovation , esp with the DFD technique for autofocus. Using existing infrastructure to create something revolutionary.

Another innovation is using materials to make glass hydrophbic and smudge proof.

Then the sony SLT(splitting the beam) was innovation.


Increasing sensor size, pixel density, faster processor... this is incremental change. Just following the moor's law.

We have different opinions on that.

Reason I say it is not incremental is because these advances over 10 years have multiplied capabilities of the camera (DSLRs as well as Mirrorless).

Current sensors from Toshiba/Sony that are used by Nikon/ Canon exceed even Human Eye in terms of light sensitivity. E.g. In low light below 30 µcd/m2 "scotopic" vision that is near color blind for Human eye.

Now, even entry level cameras capture decent images at 1600 ISO and camera like D4s even at 12k ISO.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxHK5OSUXr0 (Take a look at a video in pitch dark 3:30, illumination provided by just one led warning light, at 9:00 by a single candle)

Got a hour or so to test the beast. It is definitely bulky, heavy and noisy [AF], but does its job. A test shot with my humble workhorse, D3100.
Also shot a few birds handheld, including a few BIF. On a faster body, shooting BID would certainly be more fun.

Yes that is true. The differences are mostly in the added conveniences in terms of more physical control options - wheels, buttons and card slots. As far as the images are concerned, there is hardly any discernible differences in the three series at each generation.

The UV filter is a clear glass filter which is screwed on to the front of the lense. Its job in film days was to prevent fogging due to UV component of the light. With digital sensors, its use is to protect the front element from scratches and dirt. It is easier to clean a UV filter than the lense front element.

Please note as the UV filter is in the optical path of the image, a good filter is required. A cheap filter will degrade the image quality due to; amongst others; optically wavy glass, flare due to none or bad coating, bad ring material which may stick to and/or damage the lense filter thread. A VFM brand in India is the Hoya HMC. B+W and Hoya HD are a more expensive, but they have a harder glass and in case of more expensive filters smudge proof coating which ensures that dust, fingerprints and other material do not stick to the surface.