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You are right. But in most cases, especially in countries where use of dryers is prominent, Front Loading machines are always built to be stackable. It is always noted in installation manual if machine is stackable or not.

You don't even need a matching pair, usually. I've stacked a Bosch on an LG, and previously on a Gorenje-made IFB.

The Bosch stacking kit I bought for our dryer even took the liberty of proclaiming itself compatible with any front load washing machine with a worktop at least 54.4 cm deep.

It came with a set of four incredibly short screws, as well as its own drill bit with a rubber stopper, which physically did not let me drill too deep into the washing machine if I tried. The screws themselves are much shorter than the standard 3 cm worktop, and are not remotely long enough to reach even the uppermost components of the washing machine (like the dispenser housing).

If your washing machine is out of warranty, like ours was at the time, I would recommend taking off the worktop first to be safe (in any case, I can't endorse making holes in your washing machine while it is still in warranty).

When I used to run reliability analysis and testing, we used to specify installation scenarios to choose right standards, right components and most importantly cost. Few common categories are Ground Fixed (All common White goods Commercial grade), Ground moving (Automotive) and Airborne moving (Aerospace) excluding military or ships which are speciality applications. Since, the forces that act on are different and components needs to be chosen accordingly to calculate and test the life and balance the cost.

When you install an active electronic device like Dishwasher, on top of say front loading Wasing machine, the vibrations from running WM at 1000+ rpm may damage some PCBA components like cracking of Electrolytic capacitors on that device. It may create an latent defect and accelerate the failure. Hence the suggestion is to mount as per instructions from manufacturer.

And stackable products like Dryer are typically tested for this installation scenario and has to follow the instructions as ron178 has put it to minimize any impact.

A correction, the faulty tube light was Havells and not Philips Slimline.

After much wandering I bought one Philips Electronic ballast (Philips Sumo extreme) and decided to open up the tube light frame for possible solution. As feared, Philips ballast was too fat to enter the frame. First, I tried to cut extended parts of ballast plastic body. Still it was too fat to enter the frame. So I opened up the plastic casings of the new Philips ballast and Havells old Electronic ballast. With a little effort, I was able to house PCB from Philips ballast to Havells ballast body and secured it using tape. I made the necessary wiring connections and put the renewed ballast in the frame. Checked it once and then put the tube light frame back on the wall. So my problem is solved for now. I would stock couple of Philips Electronic ballasts lest these become difficult to be sourced in future.

The old tube light frame is 50 inches in length, while the LED battens are about 44-45 inches in length.

Just get the wall painted and end your woes. Or get 1 ltr in a similar shade to 'touch up' the exposed area after fitment of smaller tubes. The older tubes consume much more electricity than the new LED ones. A change is best way forward.

Somehow I like the older tube lights as compared to LED lights as these hurt eyes. In my office, we had replaced one of the old tube lights with an LED tube light (Philips Slimline Ultra 20W). Everyone hates it and it is always kept switched off.

Regarding the touch up of newly exposed area after using shorter length tube light: We use Asian Paints Royale Luxury Emulsion, and any experienced painter would be able to confirm that a touch up in Royale even with the same color is distinctly visible, and any touch up needs full repainting of the full wall.

If you know the exact color code, you can do the touch up yourself. No one will notice the new paint. I have done it twice painting parts of the wall. After a few days, even you cannot identify where the old paint ends and new paint begins.

I used the Asian Paints Premium Emulsion and roller to paint. Just make sure you know the color and get the exact color code. Simply asking white/cream/blue will not work.

Thanks. I know a bit about how to paint. In fact, me and my wife had painted 90 percent of our house (interiors) during covid time. This problem of touch up not matching is present only with Royale emulsion. I haven’t faced such issues with other paints. For the leftover 10% area, when the painter was doing it after a year, for a touch up at one place he had to repaint the full wall. It was the same code paint. I do keep a record of codes of colors used for painting.

A solution to both these problems is to go for the dual tube lights which are available from most brands now. Theese have both warm and cool white lights integrated into the same unit, come with a diffuser and are longer than the traditional LED battons.

Hi all, need some suggestions on water softener for my apartment. I am thinking of getting this installed on the main line and was looking at water science with dual filter. Is this a good idea or any other suggestions?

The brand new Kaff motor caught fire at 3AM damaging the kitchen.
Will go for Faber or Sunflame which has served us for decades

Holy Moly. I was finalizing Kaff chimney for my kitchen based on the reviews and value for money pricing. Your post has made me rethink on the product and came well on time.

I will now evaluate Faber, Elica and Glen in that order.

Elica was extremely noisy. Wife couldn't concentrate on cooking, so gave it away.

Hmmm... We got a new KAFF just a few weeks ago.

Most of the Chimneys which I evaluated were of 58 db with a few models from various brands advertising 54db. Are the BLDC ones are silent as claimed by few brands?