[halfbytecode]

Originally Posted by AMG Power

The Rapid and Vento are made at VW's Chakan plant and since they share the same assembly line, there are limitations to bringing in major changes. Skoda could not even bring in the Rapid notchback (which is how it is sold in globally) because of this limitation.

It would be far more complex to bring in changes to the sheet metal shop and as such would not be attempted.

I think there has been some misunderstanding. My previous post was not about differences between Vento and Rapid. I was merely referring to the sheet metal changes between the launch models and the cars manufactured later, with an example from around the time when Rapid was launched.

In the beginning of my previous post, I did say the changes do universally apply, and are not restricted to one of these cars.

To conclude, I would like to emphasize that this information is from a credible source, supplemented with the noticeable differences in person (also to a number of other people, independently).

[Gannu_1]

Originally Posted by McLaren Rulez

Did you check if the weighbridge was zeroed correctly before you moved your car onto it?

Originally Posted by graaja

This could be a simple offset error. Did you check if the scale was showing zero before parking the car on the scale?

Nope. I didn't check this. I'll definitely get it checked next weekend when I go home. The place is very close.

Originally Posted by McLaren Rulez

The other point to check is whether your four tyres were all entirely within the weighing area.

Yep, the four tires were within the metallic platform but parked in the transverse direction at the center not the longitudinal direction i.e. not the way the trucks would usually park; perpendicular to that.

Originally Posted by abhishek46

Hi Gannu,

I have a few queries, which I know only you can answer!

Not true. There are several others who are well versed with the car.

Originally Posted by abhishek46

- My car was fitted with a Hopeless RCD 030 system by dealership from Day1. How easy it is to upgrade it to a Aftermarket 2 Din HU?

Mostly plug and play. Almost all aftermarket units are bundled with the necessary adapter cables to convert the stock connectors on the harness to suit the HU's connector.

Originally Posted by abhishek46

- The MID today displays only DTE, Time and Odo. Is it possible to change the DTE to some thing else, like Avg Fuel Efficiency/Temp?

Does your RHS stalk come with the up/down and OK/RESET buttons?

Originally Posted by abhishek46

On a side note, I read in one of your earlier posts that you were planning to fabricate a sump guard for your car. Were you successful in doing that?

Unfortunately, not yet. I do plan to execute it sometime. The only time consuming activity here is to go to a garage, raise the car on the lift and do a mock-up of how the supports for the sump guard would be. It has to be bolted to the main frame below the chassis.

[abhishek46]

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

Does your RHS stalk come with the up/down and OK/RESET buttons?

Thanks Gannu.

The RHS stalk does not have the OK/Reset & Up/Down.
Any other way to change the MID? Can this be done by using the OBD etc?

[Gannu_1]

Originally Posted by abhishek46

The RHS stalk does not have the OK/Reset & Up/Down.

That's the issue. You need to have the stalk with these buttons or the steering with the relevant buttons.

Originally Posted by abhishek46

Any other way to change the MID? Can this be done by using the OBD etc?

Nope. The only way to cycle through the different options in the MID is using the stalk/steering buttons.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Aaargh.... Why do they always forget to reset the service indicator!


Is there any user-possible trick to do this, or must it be plugged into the OCD box (or whatever it's called )?

[Gannu_1]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Is there any user-possible trick to do this, or must it be plugged into the OCD box (or whatever it's called )?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZK6Y72mdPE

[Thad E Ginathom]

Thank you!

I'm not quite sure how, because it seemed to need a couple of tries, but it is back to normal. Would you believe I find all this stuff rather complicated on this car? Perhaps it is a good thing that I don't have one of the more sophisticated displays!

[sunilsoft]

Hi Gannu Bhai,

While installing the cruise control, I had wired the rls to pin 24 of T73b connector and have taken the current input from the fusebox +12v permanent. I have taken ground from the reading light.

I am facing the problem with the vcds coding.
I went to central electronics->Long Coding helper>Byte 8 -> Enabled rls installed
RLS Didn't work.

I went to group 8 of measure blocks but it says not installed.
help

[antardaksh]

Originally Posted by sunilsoft

I am facing the problem with the vcds coding.
I went to central electronics->Long Coding helper>Byte 8 -> Enabled rls installed
RLS Didn't work.

Hi,

Could you please post following section from VCDS, is RLS listed in this section?

"Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) "

Regards.

[sunilsoft]

Originally Posted by antardaksh

Hi,

Could you please post following section from VCDS, is RLS listed in this section?

"Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) "

Regards.

Yes it is listed. I am attaching the pictures as well.

In the last screenshot there is an option of Rain Sensor Function Active. When I check this one.
The dial on the wiper stalk acts as a sensor but the rls doesn't work.

Is Group 8 inside the measuring block the right one where I could see if the rain sensor is active?

There was a fault code relating to rls. I have cleared it . But I am pasting the code here:
Friday,18,August,2017,11:01:03:62939
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64)

Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 6R0-937-08x-09.clb
Control Module Part Number: 6R0 937 087 R HW: 6R0 937 087
Component and/or Version: BCM PQ25 H+4 H34 0424
Software Coding: 3AB02BBF08B30000013800007C2B1C900080414F608C000020 0000000000
Work Shop Code: WSC 12345 672 169726
VCID: 4C9782BBEF3ECC7E38B-8019
2 Faults Found:

01520 - Rain and Light Recognition Sensor (G397)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 96
Mileage: 52296 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.03.18
Time: 06:39:49

01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0

[sunilsoft]

Latest AutoScan Shows no errors regards to rls just one fault

Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels: 6N0-909-901-6R.clb
Part No SW: 6N0 909 901 HW: 6R0 937 087
Component: GW-K-CAN TP20 H34 0424
Revision: BF034001
Coding: 002300
Shop #: WSC 12345 672 169726
VCID: F0EFB64B2356489EE43-80A5

1 Fault Found:
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 52071 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.03.14
Time: 02:54:39

[antardaksh]

Originally Posted by sunilsoft

Latest AutoScan Shows no errors regards to rls just one fault

1 Fault Found:
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 52071 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.03.14
Time: 02:54:39

Hi,

I had same error earlier, I will have to check how this was solved. In the mean time you can try to enter old coding from your previous VCDS scan and see if this error is still there.

Although I have a different BCM/RLS please try to change code for RLS to the following and see if it works

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 5K7 955 559 C
Component: XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Coding: 0714DD

Please try to share complete VCDS scan if possible. You can share this through email.


Regards.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by sunilsoft

Latest AutoScan Shows no errors regards to rls just one fault

Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels: 6N0-909-901-6R.clb
Part No SW: 6N0 909 901 HW: 6R0 937 087
Component: GW-K-CAN TP20 H34 0424
Revision: BF034001
Coding: 002300
Shop #: WSC 12345 672 169726
VCID: F0EFB64B2356489EE43-80A5

1 Fault Found:
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 52071 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.03.14
Time: 02:54:39

I had a different problem once, regarding RLS. When I changed the battery, I found the RLS was not functioning. I read the code, and found it to be a different. I tried to write back the correct coding, but the controller always rejected the same code which I had successfully written before. Then I disconnected the battery and connected it back again, and the controller started working as before, and was accepting new codes as well.

So, try to disconnect the battery and connect it again (or disconnect the RLS connector and connect it again).

[Gannu_1]

Some updates:

1. After a drive in the night, I had noticed that the driver side fog lamp intensity was a notch lesser than the other side. Upon inspection, turns out that the LED bulb had dislodged from the socket! I was worried if the socket melted due to the intense heat generated by the bulb.

Luckily it was the plastic tabs of the bulb itself!



The tabs of a halogen bulb are made of metal and those can safely withstand the heat:



But not plastic. I’ll inform the Aliexpress vendor and see what can be done. These bulbs have a 1 year warranty but that won’t help as the replacement plastic ring (which is screwed to the Alu. body of the LED bulb) is going to be plastic anyway. I’ll have to work out some ingenious way of retrofitting a metal ring with tabs salvaged from another bulb.

Good news is I replaced them with a pair of Philips 55W H11 bulbs (stock fog lamp bulbs are H8 35W). Got a set from a shop here in Palakkad. Cost me Rs. 1450.







Top view indicating the difference in notches between H11 (left) and H8 (right) bulbs:



A shot from the car park – H11 bulb (left) and H8 bulb (right):



I was pleasantly surprised at the intensity of the light that these bulbs threw during the return drive from home! Definitely helps during my night drives esp. the Vellore – Chennai stretch where the roads are bad and are being repaved now.

2. I’ve almost dropped the idea of upgrading to 16” wheels for now due to two reasons:

a. The Michelin Primacy 3 ST tires aren’t available in the recommended 205/50 size for the Polo. The P3STs have impressed me so much, I am not looking beyond these for the replacement. They offer some incredible durability (the current set has run for over 66,000 km with just 4 punctures and still have a good life left), offer a great grip in wet conditions and the road noise is bearable.

b. The lower profile of the 205/50 tires affects the ride comfort as suggested by a lot of users who have switched from 15” to 16”. She’s a daily driver and does a 1200 km round trip every fortnight so comfort is of paramount importance.

There’s a long drive coming up in October and I’ll have the current set changed a week before the drive. I just love these tires!

3. I intend to do the MAF sensor cleaning very soon. Will share the feedback here.

That's all for now. Cheers!

[GTO]

To check out Gannu's DIY 105,000 km service, click here.