I decided that, time permitting, I'll try and shed light on various inquires / misperceptions etc, even if very old, for the sake of the overall knowledge-base here in the forums:
Quote:
Originally Posted by sudev
What I could not fathom is why clutch cover be replaced? (#23) This is just a bell housing and unless damaged due to some very creative driving over stones or bad handling in service nothing should happen to this. Am I wrong in assuming that this is the bell housing? |
Yes. "Cover" is another way of naming the
pressure plate, which is generally replaced along with the friction disc. Only odd thing in this case is that according to the invoice it cost less than the disc, opposite of normal!
Quote:
Originally Posted by anandpadhye Thanks Sudev.
BTW, before I take the car back to Hyundai, I tried to check the clearance between the brake pad and brake disk myself - I tried to insert my business card between the disk and the pad - it does not go through!
Is this normal?
Also, tried to see if the brake caliper moves when I apply and release brake - no, there is no movement. Does this mean Tucson has fixed brake caliper with 2 pistons? |
As someone else noted, by design clearance on any hydraulic disc brake caliper is practically nil and movement will not generally be perceptible - discs are not like drum brakes in this regard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sudev The slight change in drift direction on acceleration, steady and de-acceleration can also be due to differential(s). Very much pronounced in front wheel drive cars. |
This torque-steer is observable in many higher-powered FWD's in particular, BUT more often when wheels are slightly turned.
In a straight line, and in this case (as I think the owner eventually discovered), it would be more commonly caused by one or more worn suspension components, either tie-rod ends or control arm bushings. When torque is applied dynamically, these naturally deflect and change the static alignment settings. No use doing alignments where worn components are there, and a GOOD alignment shop has ways of checking all these beforehand and making corresponding recommendations if needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sudev I do not how far this is correct but I was told by a owner of a Tuscon that after a long speed drive on a highway not to shut off the engine immediately but to let it idle for a minute or so ...something to do with turbo spin down and excess oil seeping in to inlet manifold resulting in a "cough" of smoke at the next start. |
Good advice but not exactly the right explanation. Turbos get hot and idling helps them cool down before the oil/water cooling stops circulating at shutdown. Without this procedure, yes, the center bearing gets "coked" with carbon and can begin to seize or otherwise damage the bearing and seal. Once the seal goes bad, it indeed leaks oil into the intake tract, creating bluish smoke out the tailpipe, when worse then continually, not only at startup.
Modern VW's and some other cars have an auxiliary electric water pump, that along with the radiator cooling fans keeps running some minutes after shutdown till sufficiently cooled, thus preventing this problem - a pretty smart idea.
Quote:
Originally Posted by anandpadhye Of course, if it's a case of emergency braking with an intention of coming to a complete halt, I would downshift to 2nd and keep the clutch pressed as well |
Once the clutch is pressed the gear position is somewhat irrelevant, so might be better off to keep both hands on the wheel and focus on maximum control in tricky avoidance manoeuvres. When it's all over / hopefully past can select whichever gear seems appropriate at leisure.
Regards,
-Eric
PS came across the thread as I'm searching for a good all-rounder... Really wish they'd continued the Tucson (Native American name pronounced Too-San, btw) till maybe 2012-15, as such they might have had better parts supply and support as an affordable pre-owned option.