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-   -   Fiat Palio Stile Multijet: 196,000 km, 9 years & 8 months up! EDIT: Sold to a Palio lover! (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-term-ownership-reviews/56553-fiat-palio-stile-multijet-196-000-km-9-years-8-months-up-edit-sold-palio-lover-22.html)

The Lower arm has arrived and both mechanic and Mr Sharma have called me to let me know its there. I agree Fiat has a lousy way with parts but the service support from the ex-Elegant now Him guys makes it much better to live with.

This brings me to another thing Vipul Singh mentioned:"Things go wrong in this car but they give ample warning". All parts replacements have given me few thousand kilometres to identify / diagnose and wait for parts. The car has never stood except when the battery refused to start when hot.

Touch wood!

Got the lower arm replaced. In the process of replacement, realised that the jack lever had not been stolen but had been put under the spare wheel (which wasn't even secured). Both had been rattling away merrily all this while. Of course, the two cleaning clothes still stand stolen (unless they are also in an inaccessible place).

Today's experience at Him was better. The Service Advisor Lokesh Sharma is co-operative and he's the person to speak to in case Mr O P Sharma is not present. All said and done, a thumbs up to Him Motors from my side.

Customers are not allowed in the workshop, but one can climb the steps to first floor and take an occasional sneak peek.

Because of the noisy suspension, I had forgotten the feeling of going flat-out over bad patches at 60+ kph speeds. Pure nirvana.

Also, I think its been 2,500 km since synthetic oil has been put in the engine and I find the engine more eager to revv. 1800-3000 RPM somehow seems more easy than earlier. I am almost sure it is the synthetic oil, given the enthusiasm the revv counter shows even with the AC on.

Touch Wood, I am happy again. That's what Fiats do.

Is there a problem if old mineral oil is just drained (no flushing) and synthetic oil then put in? In my last visit to TASS for an oil change, the technician had claimed to have put Selenia (without my prior consent). The SA and the job card too had no clue about what actually went in. I was finally billed for mineral 15w40 oil.

One more question - should the viscosity of diesel engine oil be high or low?

There seem to be two schools of thought on this. While it is preferred that the engine is flushed properly before putting in synthetic oil instead of mineral, it is also advised that old engines should not be flushed (they have deposits over a long time which, if removed, can increase the tolerance / gaps between moving parts. That's what I understand, maybe I am wrong).

I did not go for any flushing, simply switched to synthetic oil (at 70,000 km my engine was old and you are aware of the circumstances when I moved to synthetic, Elegant was closing down) I let the mechanic who handles my car (Raju) just change it when he said no flushing required. I know he does not read T-BHP threads but for once, I trusted my instincts.

An interesting thing in Elegant is that Mr Sharma actually encourages each mechanic "to know a particular car" and let's him do it. In the process, the customer and mechanic both develop a relationship and the mechanic remembers what was done on the car when. While I have seen ASCs allowing SAs to develop relationships with customers, Elegant and now Him Motors actually let "one mechanic" for my car happen. This of course, does not include AC and electricals. It is a good practice and the mechanic fixed with me over the past two years is familiar with my car, Bubby's car, Bruiser's car and so on. Similarly, another guy Rafiq handles many other cars and so on.

If they have put Selenia, then make sure you don't switch back to mineral oil. With the Linea and GP around, I believe getting Selenia (or an equivalent oil from outside) should not be too difficult. You can easily maintain an oil change interval of 10,000 km with Selenia or any other synthetic oil. (Exactly what I intend to do. Sharmaji has even said I can stretch that diesel filter to 20,000 km instead of 15,000 km).

See the price they charged you. If it is in the region of Rs 800-1000 per litre, it is Selenia. If it is below Rs 500/- per litre, its mineral oil (unless the people at your TASS charged you wrongly w.r.t. the oil they used).

low or high as compared to what? I suppose 'optimum' viscosity and 'stable' viscosity at all operating temperatures is the idea behind engine oil. An engine oil should be viscous enough to stick to the sides of the engine but should not be so viscous to hamper the movement of the parts. Most importantly, it should retain its properties through the entire range of temperatures the engine is subjected to. I have very little knowledge of these things, please check in the synthetic / mineral oil thread.

So we are back at Him Motors with a rattling noise from the front suspension which was suspiciously similar to the sounds made by the faulty lower arm. The left lower arm giving way in about the same time as the right seemed logical so brought the car over to Him Motors, expecting another lower arm replacement.

It is, however, the caliper pin this time. There is a pair lying in the other outlet of the workshop which will be sourced in a day or two. I hope it is only one pair that is problematic and not both (the sound does seem to be coming only from the left side).

The car is otherwise doing fine. It was serviced at 70,000 km and the RHS lower arm was changed at around 73,000 km. Currently I am running at 76,000 km. The synthetic oil seems to be doing fine as well (heck, I was running mineral oil for 7,500 km, the synthetic has only done 6,000 km).

That's all for now. Hope to get the no more issues till the 80,000 km service.

Can you please explain this statement?

When the car was under warranty, I was changing mineral oil at 7,500 km intervals. I have since shifted to an interval of 5,000 km after warranty expiry and finally shifted to synthetic oil for the 70,000 km service and intend to keep a 10,000 km between oil change..

I merely meant that if mineral oil could last without issues for 7,500 km, synthetic oil should not have problems after 6,000 km.

That's right. I too own a Palio MJD. done 51000 odd km. When I asked for synthetic oil during last service at TASS, I was advised against it. Which brand do you use and do you really see any improvement in the working of engine in terms of smoothness/rev etc.? Any perceptible change in FE? I was told to stick to the diesel filter replacement at every 15000 km. The price of diesel filter is soaring day by day.

1. I shifted to synthetic oil simply because it would reduce the service interval to once in 10,000 km.

2. I am using Selenia, which TASC provides. If the same 75 HP MJD on the GP can take Selenia at 15,000 km service interval, why can't the Palio MJD?

3. However, shifting to synthetic oil has some other issues (like whether to flush or not flush the engine oil before starting synthetic and the fact that you cannot shift back to a mineral oil after that and so on). Please find out about them from the synthetic oil thread and other places before starting.

4. I was apprehensive about the diesel filter replacement at 15,000 km because that would not coincide with the 10,000 km service interval but Mr Sharma of HIM motors (formerly of Elegant Cars) says you can manage 20,000 km for diesel filter easily. Incidentally, MSIL recommends diesel filter change at every 20,000 km with mineral oil for the Swift Diesel, which is the same engine. So it is a chance I have taken. Diesel filter is changed at 30,000 km on the Figo!

5. The only difference I feel is the slight eagerness to rev from 1500 to 3000 RPM in the engine. Nothing significant otherwise. Mind you, Selenia is semi-synthetic, not fully synthetic oil.

Caliper Pins replaced today and total bill including replacement and checking of all belts (heard some squeaks when cold) Rs 800/-.

The car is silent all over again. Great. :).

Also, after hovering between 18 and 19 kpl since AC usage has reduced, I hit 20.18 kpl in the last filling cycle. This is with some amount of anticipatory driving on my end but still enough acceleration, even upto 3000 RPM wherever required.

Today I failed to find any auto oil dealer in my city who sold (heard of!) Selenia. BTW what is the equivalent of that oil in Castrol etc? The TASS has ready supply of Selenia in 1 litre containers and last inquired, they agreed to sell the 200ml (of 3.2 lt) loose. I have to take the TASS route again.

architect, when should I worry about drive belt, transmission oil and coolant fluid?

Selenia is a Petronas sub-brand and it is almost unheard of in the open market even in Delhi, forget about Guwahati!

Can't say. Once I know the exact grade, it's easy.

If you think it's genuine (check packet) and they're selling across the counter, buy it.

Drive belt is AC / PS belt, no? I don't know. I ask them to check at every service and they say its ok. Gearbox oil was changed at 60,000, I think although I am not sure. Coolant I try and change once a year although this time its been over 15 months. Will change in summer.

Over the last 2-3 weeks, observed some of these issues in the car:
1. Somewhat higher noise levels from the car's wheels / tyres / axles (somewhere) at higher speeds, prominent when you are high speed / low rpm (like 60 kph on 5th gear) on smooth roads.

2. Brake fluid indicator lighting up on hard acceleration or going up steep inclines (nose going up, sensor detects less oil due to tilt of cylinder). Basically this implies reduction in brake / clutch fluid level due to a leak somewhere.

3. "Squench" sounds from the rear once the car stops on braking hard (i.e. when rear end goes up). Typically happens in traffic-jam start stops.

4. Belts making "phat-phat" noises on cold start for first 5 minutes.

5. One fine day, "Check engine" light and "heater warning" light stayed on even after starting the car for a while.

6. ICE stopped playing two days ago.

7. One headlamp bulb fused. I promptly replaced standing by the roadside in the light of the flashlight I carry with me. It is too risky to drive with one headlamp even for a kilometre given the fog in Delhi nowadays. In the process, I fused a parking lamp, but its okay, since I always switch on parking lights in combination with the fog lamps.

Regarding (2) I was not worried so much. It indicated less fluid but the problem wasn't increasing in intensity, so it was a minor leak in a brake cylinder somewhere (or master / slave cylinder).

(1) could mean wheel bearings, or anything related to the wheels / tyres / axles. It could also mean I was ignoring it until the ICE conked off.

Once the ICE conked off, I decided it was time to go to Him Motors. I have already been there twice since last service to replace lower arm and caliper pins.

The source of (3) is the rear axle bushes. The bushes will either have to be replaced or greased. Once that is done, the noise mentioned in (1) will reduce, hopefully, else wheel bearings will have to be checked (AFAIK, they were checked today).

(2) was detected to a leaking cylinder in the rear left wheel. Replaced.

(4) was left as it is. (5) was checked on scanner but no errors recorded. (Faulty sensor? humidity?)

(6) was fixed by the ICE guy. I ended up buying a JBL component system (I have a JBL 6' X 9' and amplifier at the rear) and ordering a new set of seat covers and mats, too. The current seat covers (especially front seats) have started fraying at the edges.

Now I shall wait for the next service at 80,000 to get the rear axle checked. That's another 2,500 km or roughly two months away.

Hmmm, the Italian mistress is demanding a lot of attention this week. Last week, the noise from the rear axle and wheel bearings / tyres (?) was left unattended. Instead of getting all jobs done in one go, I tend to take the car for 1-2 hours and get jobs done on a priority / urgency basis at times. I know this might be irritating for some, but that's how it is with me.

Tomorrow I had to leave for Lansdowne on a work related trip. Decided to check the coolant level. The green fluid was above maximum mark as seen from outside. When I opened the cap, I realised it was just the green coloured staining on the inside of the tank and there was plain water inside which had gone way below minimum mark!

The leak was detected to the point where coolant enters the cylinder. It was not a major leak since there was no overheating (I know its winter, but still).
The coolant was also leaking on to the belt, which is probably why there was the 'phat phat' belt noise on cold start.

One the way to the service station, the check engine light went on again (some sensor detected reduced coolant pressure or malfunctioned due to coolant spilt on it?)!

Have deposited the car at Him Motors and will collect after I come back from Lansdowne. Hope this round of minor annoyances are over. It is providential that I decided to check the coolant level after opening the cap and not from inside. And lesson learnt is to beware of coolant coloured staining inside the tank.

Italians always get attention. If you dont give them they'll find a way to get it!!! :D