After the disappointing reply from the Thane service centre over the phone, I talked to Bajaj directly. I got asked to send an email, and to my surprise I got a call within an hour with the details of the in-charge at the Thane service centre. He explained to me that they can diagnose the fault electronically, and therefore to bring it to the service center. I didn't want to do that but I saw the logic in his argument and asked him when I could get it over. He said "anytime", so in the afternoon I took my unfaired motorcycle over. The way the guard said "have you got an appointment?" gave me the impression that I couldn't just show up at the service centre with a problem.
Talked to a the workshop in-charge and to my surprise there wasn't any separate diagnostics tool for the motorcycle - next post will have the details. The mechanic asked me if a fuse had blown and I said no, because my regular mechanic said he'd checked all the fuses (he's been 100% right so far, so no reason for me to question him) and it turned out that the error code was for the radiator fan relay - apparently it was malfunctioning. I found this strange because I could feel the hot air on my arm while riding on the highway that generally signals the radiator fan turning on, but hey, The Computer Is Always Right, so I said okay, get the part. They didn't have one in stock. Asked how much it costs, got a lot of shifty-eyed hemming and hawing and got asked for an advance.
In the meanwhile Vijay, the helpful mechanic (who is also highly recommended by shamshuis of this forum) said "let me check the fuses anyway) and he did - turned out the radiator fan relay fuse had blown. The workshop people were VERY relieved, which was strange - until they told me the cost of the fan relay. Between Rs 10,000 and Rs 15,000. Gulp. I'm glad I had a fuse problem and nothing else. He replaced the fuse with one of the spares but strangely refused to replace the spare fuse. In my relief I didn't insist and came home, only to find that the Ninja 250's fuses are unique to it - neither the Indian nor imported motorcycles use similar sized fuses (if I'm wrong, please correct me - it'll help!) so if you're going to go touring with your motorcycle, take a bunch of spare 10A fuses along, and a couple of 15A ones as well.
They requested me to keep coming in for service, else they get a lot of questioning from Bajaj. After this experience I DO want to go for official service, but I didn't like the fact that I needed to take an appointment or the fact that they wanted to keep the motorcycle overnight for diagnosis. I understand they are busy people, but if they agreed to me coming in that day they should have been better prepared. I also saved them at least 30 minutes' worth of work by taking the bike minus the fairing, and I would have expected them to account for that and put in at least that much time before throwing in the towel and asking me to keep the motorcycle there.
Credit where credit is due, however: the staff was very helpful, especially Vijay the mechanic who went out of his way to check everything and explain the technicalities in as simple terms as possible. The only fly in the ointment is the Bajaj angle: if I hadn't talked to Bajaj directly would they have been as helpful and accomodating? That's one question I don't know the answer to.
To modify the statement from The Matrix, "There is no tool". A diagnostic one, that is. Here's what you do if your FI light comes on (and all the fuses seem intact.)
I can put photos or a video up if you like, based on popular demand. If you want it, say so.
1. Remove the pillion seat.
2. Look on the right side of the subframe - you'll find a lone wire that seems to have been forgotten because it's connected only at one end.
3. Turn your ignition key to the 'on' position and wait until everything settles.
4. Push the plastic sheath on the free end of the wire you just found back and ground the metal end on the chassis.
5. Watch the FI light - if it stays constantly on, you haven't grounded the wire properly. Try again, either with a firmer hand or on a different part of the chassis.
6. Once you get it right, the FI light will go off momentarily and then start flashing. There are long flashes and short flashes, separated by a second of the FI light staying off. Make sure you've got the entire sequence before you remove the wire from its grounding. Do this at least two times so that you've got the number of flashes right.
7. Look up the error codes from the list below and take appropriate action.
• 1 long/ 1 short: Main throttle sensor malfunction/wiring open or short
• 1 long/2 short: Inlet air pressure sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
• 1 long/ 3 short: Inlet air temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
• 1 long/ 4 short: Water temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
• 2 long / 1 short: Crankshaft sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
• 2 long/ 4 short alternated with 2 long/ 5 short: Speed sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
• 3 long/ 1 short: Vehicle down sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
• 3 long / 2 short: Sub throttle sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
• 3 long/ 3 short: Oxygen sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
• 5 long / 1 short: Stick coil #1 malfunction, wiring open or short
• 5 long/ 2 short: Stick coil #2 malfunction, wiring open or short
• 5 long/ 6 short: Radiator fan relay malfunction, wiring open or short
• 6 long/ 2 short: Sub throttle valve actuator malfunction, wiring open or short
• 6 long/ 4 short: Air switching valve malfunction, wiring open or short
• 6 long/ 7 short: Oxygen sensor heater malfunction, wiring open or short
• 9 long/ 4 short: Oxygen sensor malfunction, wiring open or short Note from the Team-BHP Support Team: Please use the "edit" button if posting within 30 minutes of the first post, instead of creating another back-to-back post. Also use "Multi Quote" option for quoting Multiple posts.
Last edited by n_aditya : 29th February 2012 at 20:30.
Reason: posts merged
|