[janakiram_m]

Originally Posted by shyamg28

Mine is a BSIV (sans ABS, so basically the 2nd revision of the Himalayan) and the service interval is 6 months/5000 kms.

Thanks. Yes it's the same for the BS3 version. But I never went for the 6 month "check ups" after warranty expired because they are not really replacing anything. And visiting the RE SC might make the bike behave worse by my experience. May be the SA was misinformed about the oil change.

Originally Posted by bblost

All the warnings about try this at your own risk.

Practice changing gears without using the clutch. You need to pay attention to the engine sounds, feel and all that.

I am aware and do clutch less upshifts quite often. However clutch less downshifts are very hard in my clunky BS3 gearbox. In a similar incident with my 1990 Bullet I rode it without clutch till my FNG. But this was in the heart of Trivandrum city at 4 pm with half a dozen signals and U Turns so went for a safer option.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

IMO, all motorcycles with a clutch cable need to have that cable lubricated at least once a year. More often in humid areas like much of India.

Although it should be, lubricating the clutch cable is often overlooked by the service departments

I specifically ask the SC to check, clean and lube the cables during my annual service. This year, the motorcycle was sitting stationary for few months due to lockdown and I kept postponing going to SC week after week for obvious safety reasons.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

These days I just keep a Vespa Inner Cable and Lock in my tool kit, it's easier to replace the inner cable alone as all you'd need to do is pull out the snapped inner, insert Vespa one and then lock it at the other end using the lock. Costs 60rs for OE and 30rs for Non-OE. Can be used to jugaad clutch as well as throttle if the situation demands.

As for starting from a stop. Walk with the bike and once you've gained momentum slot into 1st.

Thanks a lot. I will definitely keep a spare or inner cable with lock from now on. Riding has been negligible since last year, just 3000km as compared to 33000km from the 3 years prior. I was feeling disconnected from the bike with only the regular city riding. May be it's the city life that caused the cable it's life.

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Lubing yes, but a spritz of wd40 works on teflon coated cables. You should see the gunk that comes out. Keeps your clutch lever nice and free as well.

Thanks. WD-40 just got another role apart for the chain cleaning duty. Like the Cycle Agarbathy Ad, what the world would have been without WD-40

[bblost]

Originally Posted by janakiram_m

Thanks. WD-40 just got another role apart for the chain cleaning duty. Like the Cycle Agarbathy Ad, what the world would have been without WD-40

No. Just No.

Please use the appropriate degreaser and lubricant only. WD40 is good for removing jammed screws etc but avoid using for a specialized role for which much better things exist.

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by bblost

No. Just No.

Please use the appropriate degreaser and lubricant only. WD40 is good for removing jammed screws etc but avoid using for a specialized role for which much better things exist.

What? I have been using WD40 for ages on all my clutch cables (Indian, Imported whatever), and it works just fine. It will flush all the crud and dirt out, and leave a very thin film of lube - perfect for the job.

Unless you want a flashy can which says "Motorcycle Clutch Cable Cleaner" which will essentially be the same thing and priced at a few hundreds more.

Here's a shameless plug from a friend's channel:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4q8MFDrNeI

Others: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+cleaning+wd40

[ashwinprakas]

It pains my chest to see such tasteless jugaad's. And this is coming from me, someone who believes in clocking maximum miles at minimum expense to the point I've not pressure washed my bikes for about 2 years.

WD40 is a penetrant, and as mentioned modern cables come with anti-friction coating, in short you'd be doing more harm than good.

As for using chain lube, it gunks up with the least bit effort when sprayed inside cable inners, again doing more bad I'm the long run.

Control cables are basic consumables, as the name suggests you consume them and move on, not worth the time of day to form an emotional bond with them.

[bblost]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

What? I have been using WD40 for ages on all my clutch cables (Indian, Imported whatever), and it works just fine. It will flush all the crud and dirt out, and leave a very thin film of lube - perfect for the job.

Unless you want a flashy can which says "Motorcycle Clutch Cable Cleaner" which will essentially be the same thing and priced at a few hundreds more.

I replace cables before a long ride.
My point is specifically for the bike chain. I would never use WD40 and risk damaging it especially when the correct products to use are not exactly expensive.

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by bblost

I replace cables before a long ride.
My point is specifically for the bike chain. I would never use WD40 and risk damaging it especially when the correct products to use are not exactly expensive.

Misread the quote.

WD40 on the chain is perfectly fine again. I have been doing it for years now, my chains have lasted 35k kms on a 650 cc. Look up the video from motorcycle garage on the effect wd40 has on the seals. Urban myth. Unless you soak the chain in wd40 for a year. Stop getting caught up on motorcycle marketing.

But I guess this going to be another one of those you vs me vs the world Which oil/brake pads/insert favourite motorcycle part here discussion.

Everyone do as he pleases and go out and have fun!

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Stop getting caught up on motorcycle marketing.

If it helps, we have the exact same diametrically opposing camps (global) amongst cycling community when it comes to WD40 on chain and cassette as pre wash pre lube quick spray lazy biker / what's easily available at hand degreaser.

GCN no less advocates WD40. I know a lot of pros and old school mechs who shrink in horror at the mention.

Pretty much the same for and against camps for diesel, but not as militant. Probably because its been around for donkey's years, and anyone using diesel to clean is also probably using motor oil or 2T to lube.

Personally I'd have tried WD40 "if" it was actually a cheaper fix.

Problem for me personally is that its not. Not when I calculate the Rupee per ml cost of WD40 to any "specialist" degreaser like MucOff for instance. Marginally maybe. Not near enough to bump me in the direction of taking a risk with expensive chainsets and cassettes. The WD40 can costs 150 bucks. My chain costs 1000 bucks. My cassette anywhere between 1400-1800 bucks. The math is not supportive of the endeavour.

So I prefer a bit of old school elbow grease, warm water and plain dish washing liquid instead.

What's mild enough for something I eat in, should be ok on my chain.

Cheers, Doc

[Red Liner]

https://youtu.be/UrEpAUi_QKA

I usually have to clean a chain when out on a trip. Time better spent elsewhere than mucking around a chain. Spritz and sprint!

[janakiram_m]

Originally Posted by bblost

No. Just No.

Originally Posted by bblost

My point is specifically for the bike chain. I would never use WD40 and risk damaging it especially when the correct products to use are not exactly expensive.

I used to use purpose built chain cleaner. Once when I ran out of cleaner mid way through the job, I had no other option with me and used WD-40. We had bought a large can for the stuck locks in the house. It did a good job even though a little more effort with the brush was needed.

For chain lube, I always go for a purpose built one. I was about to share the Fortnine video Red Liner had shared.

Also got the bike today. Total cost ₹3,091/-. The accelerator cable was a proactive replacement.

[shyamg28]

Originally Posted by shyamg28

3. Top box
I have purchased the SHAD SH39 from Bikenbiker, which is yet to be fit but for anyone interested, here's the invoice:
Attachment 2038028
I wanted to be able to fit a couple of jackets and knee guards and this more than serves the purpose for it.
The SH42 is slightly bigger and cheaper, but the quality of SH39 seemed far superior.

Finally got both the ZANA Top rack and the SH39 installed:



















Ridden around 150kms on highway and narrow twisties. There is a noticeable difference in the way the bike handles.
One thing I do like is that the added weight behind provides a smooth suspension for me even if I'm riding alone, kind of like how it would be to have a child as a pillion all the time.
On the flip side, it takes a tad bit more effort to perform overtaking manoeuvres, nothing significant, but noticeable nonetheless.
Another concern is the fact that the box with the way it's installed now, seems to have eaten up some space from the pillion seat. It isn't uncomfortable per se, in fact acts as excellent back support, but does push the pillion a bit forward. Good thing is that the mount rack can be pushed back further.

Overall, I'm convinced that this is a good utilitarian investment
Now, to ride more!

[janakiram_m]

Originally Posted by janakiram_m

And visiting the RE SC might make the bike behave worse by my experience.

Originally Posted by janakiram_m

Also got the bike today. Total cost ₹3,091/-. The accelerator cable was a proactive replacement.

Opened up the left side panel where the air filter is accessed and saw this



Normally three screws are there to attach the filter to the box inside. One is broken off along with it's plastic part and another one is stripped useless and stuck.

Visited the ASC where I got the work done. They moved the bike to the service bay and opened the plastic panel. I was looking from the customer lounge and could see everyone gathering and tensed faces all around. I kept calm and simply asked to replace the cover. The SA said the air box comes as a single unit and costs ~ 1500₹. He said he took pictures and since the technician who serviced my bike was on leave, he will call me and I will have to bring in the bike tomorrow.

I have not opened up this panel on my own in the last two years. Any work on the bike, be it any breakdowns or routine services, has been through ASCs only. Even if the technician did not damage it, he is responsible to tell me he saw this during service. The technician keeping it a secret is suspicious. He cannot say he didn't see it because they've billed me "General Service" which included Air filter cleaning, which would mean billing without actually doing the work.

I don't want to go through an altercation with SC and thought about paying for the damaged part if it's a few hundreds only. But shelling out 1.5k is just dumb. So how to go about all this tomorrow?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by janakiram_m

I don't want to go through an altercation with SC and thought about paying for the damaged part if it's a few hundreds only. But shelling out 1.5k is just dumb. So how to go about all this tomorrow?

Make sure all hell breaks loose when you're at the ASC next time and demand for a replacement at their expense and settle for nothing less.

Document every bit of communication, make sure detailed emails are sent.

Life is short, no point faking niciety at your own expense.

Edit: You could just replace the cap with metal tabs that can easily be fabricated, but such callousness shouldn't be let off lightly, especially after charging exorbitant service bills for general servicing.

Regards,
A.P.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Make sure all hell breaks loose when you're at the ASC next time and demand for a replacement at their expense and settle for nothing less.

Document every bit of communication, make sure detailed emails are sent.

Life is short, no point faking niciety at your own expense.

Edit: You could just replace the cap with metal tabs that can easily be fabricated, but such callousness shouldn't be let off lightly, especially after charging exorbitant service bills for general servicing.

Regards,
A.P.

I agree. There is not doubt that the damaged screw head is due to negligent work by a mechanic. As for the broken tab, it might have been caused by a failure of the plastic but there is also the possibility the mechanic applied too much force on it.

There is no way I would buy a new filter housing.

If the dealer won't replace the filter cover for no charge, if it was mine, I would insist that the damaged screw was removed and replaced with a new one. I would then buy a new air filter, a similar sized screw and a washer.


After replacing the air filter would use the screw and washer on the broken tab location and reassemble everything.
The cover is not under any heavy loads so the remains of the broken tab will still be strong enough to do the job of keeping the cover tight enough to prevent dirt from getting into the engine.

[neil.jericho]

Originally Posted by janakiram_m

I have not opened up this panel on my own in the last two years. Any work on the bike, be it any breakdowns or routine services, has been through ASCs only. Even if the technician did not damage it, he is responsible to tell me he saw this during service. The technician keeping it a secret is suspicious. He cannot say he didn't see it because they've billed me "General Service" which included Air filter cleaning, which would mean billing without actually doing the work.

I don't want to go through an altercation with SC and thought about paying for the damaged part if it's a few hundreds only. But shelling out 1.5k is just dumb. So how to go about all this tomorrow?

Hear what the SVC says. If they insist you have to pay, please decline and then send an email to Royal Enfield customer care. Dont forget to attach pictures and add a link to this thread. Their CSM will get in touch with you and sort this out. There is absolutely no reason for you to pay if they have messed up and kept quiet about it.

[klgiridhar]

Originally Posted by shyamg28

Finally got both the ZANA Top rack and the SH39 installed

Looks very good on the bike. I have a question regarding this, do you know what the load rating of the top rack is? (The Zana website doesn't give any rating for the same) Can the rack handle a soft bag (around 40L) with roughly a week's luggage on the back?

Anyone who does long rides with pillion can also add their experience with moderate to heavy loads on the top rack.

Thanks,
Giridhar