[ast.ggn]

Brief Background

RC 390 can be tough on your wrists, especially when you are stuck in traffic. I have used the bike for office commute for almost 1.5 year and for few outstation trips and every time I returned with wrists/ palms in terrible condition. I have also used it for few track sessions and bike feels at home on track (except for rear suspension and lack of power). While one might say that I should have opted for Duke 390 if primary purpose was touring, city commute etc. I somehow couldn't connect with BS-3 Duke whenever I took a test ride, worst part was that any act of aggressive braking resulted in sliding forward on the seat every time. RC was easy on back too, due to forward leaning posture. BS-4 duke was nowhere in sight at that time and KTM had jacked up prices substantially.

I am a reasonably fit guy with over 10 years of regular gym experience having "not so shamefully low" squat/ bench/ deadlift and can run a 10K under 60 mins at the same time. Never felt the need for any alteration except one fine day the bike went over a pothole and there was a nerve impingement in my left wrist/ little finger (similar to carpel tunnel syndrome or you can say age is catching up). I thought it might go away with a few days of rest but the numbness came back every time. I parked the RC for occasional use and got myself an Xpulse which I am thoroughly enjoying as of now.

It was a pain to see RC parked every time and selling it off was a depreciation disaster. (It is now on sale on T-BHP classifieds, if any one is interested). I was tempted to get Adv 390/ 310GS for a short period in exchange for RC but dealers were quoting abysmally low price for the bike. After a long period of being in a dilemma, decided to go for a handle bar modification to make it more city friendly. Made some searches and found out quite a few options. Some people have swapped Duke 390 handlebar on RC. It is a direct fit with exchange of couple of other parts but you cannot lock the bike after the modification. One guy had exchanged RC clip-ons from Apache, but it requires extensive brake line mods as well. Few days back, fellow BHPian VijayAnand1 shared the video link to R15 handlebar mod and it looked most easy and reasonable amongst other options. Finally decided to go ahead with it.

Stock Clip-ons





Now remove the mount cover and the mount attachment (not sure if there is a proper name for it). It is the part which connects your triple clamp to front forks.



Remove the part and whatever left behind it this (fork rod, I assume):



To make R-15 clip-ons compatible, you will need a new mount like one in the below pic. One side mount was a perfect fit, another side had to be fine tuned again on lathe to make thread compatible:



A comparison of old vs new mount:



Placed on the existing fork attachment and it can be screwed back on the fork and triple clamp.





R-15 handlebar in position. Be careful to screw back the new mount before removing old one from other side or else the bike will land on front wheel and may damage radiator:



New handle doesn't have any arrangement to stop the switch assembly from rotating whenever you press any switch, hence a drill is required on both sides to fit a screw:



Another similar drill hole is required on T Clamp mount to keep the Clip-ons in position and prevent them from rotating.



Final Result:





Close up view of finished work. Spray painted new mount to black:



Mounted foam grips to reduced vibration feedback.

R-15 handlebar doesn't have provision for inner thread to mount bar end weight, hence temporary jugad with Yamaha Fazer bar end attachments is done till I find some other solution. They hardly serve any purpose except for aesthetics.

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Total Time required for the modification is 7-8 hours as the new mount has to be manufactured on the lathe which take most of the time. Once the part is available, fitment takes hardly 1.5 hour.

Ride Feedback and other points

I have done close to 200 kms till now after the mod and my observations are as below:

+ Sitting posture on bike is lot more comfortable. Total raise in wrist position is close to 1.5-2 inches. Pressure on wrist is considerably low. If you want to tour on the bike now, torso position is perfect in my opinion.
+ No problems upto 120 kmph, bike performs well. I haven't pushed beyond that but it should not be an issue. (not advocating it)
+ Riding in traffic is a breeze. No pressure in stop and go traffic.
+ Strain on neck and traps is almost nil.
+ Yet to notice any drop in fuel economy.
+ Fairly easy mod. You can switch back to original position if you don't like it. It will take 1 hour to revert back.
+ Economical. Total job cost was finished under 3K. Totally worth it if you are considering selling the bike due to similar issues. Much better than taking a hit on depreciation and buying another bike.

- Modification is kind of crude work and may not be for everyone's liking. Couple of drill holes are required. Workmanship was average. A better job can be done with same mod.
- Bike dynamics have changed a bit. Previously you can lean in any corner any time and bike would behave as it should. Now it needs some planning. If you take your bike to track, forget this mod.
- Upward torso and rear set foot pegs make a bit of awkward seating position. You will need some time to get used to it.
- Since you sit lot straighter now, rear shock is lot more preloaded as compared to previous position. You will feel this in regular run. Not necessarily a bad thing but it was bit soft previously for my liking, now it is compresses more on uneven roads.
- Vibrations are consistent. My initial thought was that they have increased a bit but I feel they are more or less same.

Store Experience

Entire modification work was carried out at an accessory/ mod store in Karol Bagh. I am knowingly withholding the name as the guy turned out to be a cheat towards the end. Once the deal was finalised at X price, he increased it by few hundreds when the entire job was completed. He even had the guts to ask me to dig out phone recording or any other recording if I had (as if I make every recording of my discussions). Paying few bucks extra wouldn't have stopped me from getting the job done but once you commit anything and then back out, you are a cheat/ fraud in my opinion. I made a mistake that I didn't ask him for a written estimate and made the deal verbally. When the payment was being done, he disappeared from his store and left his workmen to argue with me. This whole drama towards the end left me a bit disappointed. If anyone wants to know his name (just to be careful in future), please pm me.

Thanks for reading. Hope you ride your RC pain free now.

Note to mods: Please remove speed reference if it is not allowed (in positives).

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[bivin]

Interesting thread. Did you consider tank grips like these?

https://www.jwmotoparts.com.au/store...KTM_RC390.html

I owned an RC390 for a while and one of my biggest gripes was being unable to grip the tank properly with my thighs, thus being forced to use my arms which is the MAIN reason for sore wrists.

Tanks pads are an absolute necessity on these bikes

[ast.ggn]

Originally Posted by bivin

Did you consider tank grips like these?

No I didn't consider tank grips because they won't serve any purpose with kind of usage I have. When you are stuck in traffic (especially stop and go and is quite usual for me), you are bound to have pressure on your wrists. Every couple of minutes, your either leg is dangling in air leaving no chance to grip the tank. Tank grips might help if you are on highways etc.

[Rocketscience]

I totally feel you, i have the exact same issue on my r15 v3, i'am 26 and in a pretty good shape but still my body does pain after a longish ride, what's worse is because of the stiff suspension, if i do encounter a sharp bump it almost breaks my lower back, i have a lower back pain from the past 3 days and couldn't figure out why, then I remembered encountering a bump at high speed on Delhi - Gurgaon highway, must have done the trick.
Will be trying a similar solution on my bike in the future.

P.S - Did i just read lack of power in track use on an RC 390? A bike that does 0-100 in 5.5 seconds! To each his own i guess

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by ast.ggn

R-15 handlebar doesn't have provision for inner thread to mount bar end weight, hence temporary jugad with Yamaha Fazer bar end attachments is done till I find some other solution. They hardly serve any purpose except for aesthetics.

RTR's bar end weights are insert types, heaviest I've used so far, only downside being they're absurdly priced, but they do serve the purpose with finesse.

As for that locking screw, if I were you I'd rethread the holes to fit a larger Allen Bolt at least since they act as a safety point if by chance the pinch clamp comes loose, strange, but I've seen it happen before, more prone if you ride on crappy roads. A little more safety and precaution never hurt anyone.

Now I know to each his own but I simply can't go without asking why you're opting for grip cushions on a sports motorcycle. I find this absolutely weird since riding such motorcycles every bit of precision is appreciated and these cushions numb front end feel considerably to the point of concern, I literally can't feel the front end breaking traction when using them, irrespective of type of motorcycle, hence the distaste for them.

[Entsurgeon]

Old memories. I did something opposite on my first gen cbz 21 years ago. I used the clip on handlebar set that were made for RD350. The top fork fitment needed thread modification and it took us 6 7 hours back then, most of it to adjust the bikini fairing so it wont foul with handle. The bars were solid aluminium and not hollow steel pipes.
Gave me great stance and looks.
Great job you did there

[ebonho]

I'm frankly extremely scared looking at this modification and all the karol bagh drilling on the triple T clamp man.

Please reconsider ...

Cheers, Doc

[ast.ggn]

Originally Posted by Rocketscience

P.S - Did i just read lack of power in track use on an RC 390? A bike that does 0-100 in 5.5 seconds! To each his own i guess

390 feels slow on BIC straights. Before you run out of track, you run out of top speed. It is a very good beginner bike but you end up searching for more power very quickly. Something like middleweight 600 is ideal in my opinion, litre class are too much to handle. I hope you get what I mean.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

RTR's bar end weights are insert types, heaviest I've used so far, only downside being they're absurdly priced, but they do serve the purpose with finesse.

Any idea what they cost? I might consider them if they are not astronomically high.

As for that locking screw, if I were you I'd rethread the holes to fit a larger Allen Bolt at least since they act as a safety point if by chance the pinch clamp comes loose, strange, but I've seen it happen before, more prone if you ride on crappy roads. A little more safety and precaution never hurt anyone.

Originally Posted by ebonho

I'm frankly extremely scared looking at this modification and all the karol bagh drilling on the triple T clamp man.

I am apprehensive of that arrangement too and came as shock to me at the end. I missed that part in the reference video. I will surely consider putting larger bolt there. Though the arrangement feels adequate superficially but you never know with the kind of roads we have in our country.

Now I know to each his own but I simply can't go without asking why you're opting for grip cushions on a sports motorcycle. I find this absolutely weird since riding such motorcycles every bit of precision is appreciated and these cushions numb front end feel considerably to the point of concern, I literally can't feel the front end breaking traction when using them, irrespective of type of motorcycle, hence the distaste for them.

All my bikes were without any grips till now, for a change decided to put foam grip to reduce vibrations a bit. They don't suit my taste either and I will dispose them off shortly.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ast.ggn

I am apprehensive of that arrangement too and came as shock to me at the end. I missed that part in the reference video. I will surely consider putting larger bolt there. Though the arrangement feels adequate superficially but you never know with the kind of roads we have in our country.

The handlebar of your bike is all that's between you and going superman over the bars and face first into the tarmac.

Certain things on my bike I would never touch.

Suspension, frame, wheels, and handlebar.

Do whatever you want to do with the engine. At worst it will kill the bike. Not you.

In your mod look at what is connecting the the control of the front end of your bike (your hands hooked to the the fork stanchions) to the center pivot of your bike (the main bolt of the triple clamp).

Its two bars of cast aluminium on each side (of the triple clamp).

Now see how wide each bar is.

Now see how much material you've drilled out (to anchor the clip-on) and what's left of the bar closer to you.

Cheers, Doc

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by ast.ggn

Any idea what they cost? I might consider them if they are not astronomically high.

Here you go;

[PrasannaDhana]

But haven't you just dialed back on one of the most important core strengths of the RC390? As much uncomfortable it can be inside the city traffic/ touring, the rc390 is an absolute gem for anyone who wants to exploit that amazing chassis and supersport ergonomics. I am sure there must be extensive research behind the placement of clip-ons on the KTM, I reiterate what Ebonho has said.

At the end of the day, it's your bike and it's your choice. Wishing you the best!

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by PrasannaDhana

But haven't you just dialed back on one of the most important core strengths of the RC390?

My unspoken thoughts too, when I saw this thread.

I think he's on the wrong bike and trying to work around it.

I just cannot be aggressive or comfortable on an RC. Once we were racing our KTMs on Lavasa road. The fastest guy just behind me was on an RC and was most disturbed that a senior citizen on a Duke ahead was not allowing him to even close the gap.

So after a lap or two, at the chai break he offered me his RC to ride, saying if I was pushing the Duke like that I would find the RC a total hoot.

I rode his RC. The only time I have ridden the RC. And on every corner I felt I was 200% going to fly over the handlebars. Lol

Cheers, Doc

[ast.ggn]

Originally Posted by ebonho

In your mod look at what is connecting the the control of the front end of your bike (your hands hooked to the the fork stanchions) to the center pivot of your bike (the main bolt of the triple clamp).

Its two bars of cast aluminium on each side (of the triple clamp).

Now see how wide each bar is.

Now see how much material you've drilled out (to anchor the clip-on) and what's left of the bar closer to you.

Doc, little confusion I think. The said screws are not for any load bearing. They are present there to stop the handle from rotating, in case main screw comes lose. R-15 V2 has same arrangement, except with allen bolt which Ashwin mentioned. The holes drilled in the T clamp surely does compromise the safety aspect though and I understand your point. I will give it a thought and might return back to original arrangement. Please don't ask me now whether I have done finite element analysis of the new set up.

Originally Posted by PrasannaDhana

But haven't you just dialed back on one of the most important core strengths of the RC390?

Yes, core strengths have been compromised. I am well past that racing and supersport ergo fever now and would happily trade it for a more comfortable bike if I find right buyer.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Here you go;

Thanks Ashwin, yeah they are priced almost double of KTM ones. I would still try them if I stick to this arrangement.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ast.ggn

Doc, little confusion I think. The said screws are not for any load bearing.

I understand what they are for. But removing material from there weakens one of the two arms of the triple T there.

Repeated stress could create metal fatigue and a fracture.

And one fine day a hard knock could break it clean trough.

Google for broke triple T clamps and see the common areas where they break from.

You've drilled a hole straight through one of the stress points.

Cheers, Doc