[tharian]

Originally Posted by adrian

Thanks tharian. Both the brake cams are new and properly lubed and the brakes shoes disengage as soon as the brake lever is released.
In this case, it is like the brake shoes slip at one point and regrab.

Pre - painting the rim, I had washed inside the drum with diesel and soap and dried the whole thing under the sun. Wonder if this has created a slippery spot inside the drum? But against this, I had thoroughly cleaned the drum and had scrubbed the drum as well as the brake shoes with a sandpaper.


Edit : 1. Why I mentioned trueing was because, this incident was not there before trueing. My bullet used to dive to the right on hands off. The person who trued the wheel said that the drum was till now positioned to one side related to the rim, which caused this. After trueing, the bullet is running straight with hands off, but brought this minor discomfort with it.

Edit : 2. I had used the same diesel / soap washing method with the rear wheel. But that is not causing similar symptoms there.

There are two ways I would deal with this, from your information.
- Continue running the bike and use the front brakes gradually and not fully to avoid locking up. Hoping that after some running, the liners and drum would clean itself out. It maybe happening only on the front because the stopping power and pressure is much more on the front brakes compared to the rear.
- Get the front brakes removed , cleaned again and re-fitted. I don't understand the trueing chaps explanation of the drum positioned to one side. I cannot picture something like that, as that will lead to the tyre rubbing the mudguard stays.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by tharian

There are two ways I would deal with this, from your information.
- Continue running the bike and use the front brakes gradually and not fully to avoid locking up. Hoping that after some running, the liners and drum would clean itself out. It maybe happening only on the front because the stopping power and pressure is much more on the front brakes compared to the rear.

Makes sense. I think I will wait it out.

Originally Posted by tharian

I don't understand the trueing chaps explanation of the drum positioned to one side. I cannot picture something like that, as that will lead to the tyre rubbing the mudguard stays.

Actually a little bit of offset from the axis would make the motorcycle unstable. This would only show as minute change in gap between the tyre and the forks / mudguard stays on either ends.

This was how it was before



The rust issue





Actually this is the only rust I have in my 12 year old Bullet. Again, this was avoidable, if I had removed the tyres periodically (say around 20000 Kms) and had gone for a wheel trueing. Bullet owners take note of this factor as well.

After painting





The trueing incident

I had given the wheels for trueing like this (without the bullet and without the tyres)



I didn't mention the diving to the right side to the wheel trueing guy. To my amazement, when I went to pick the wheels up in the evening, he asked me whether my bullet was pulling to the right. I said yes and also said that for the very same reason the bullet dealers (Marikkar motors) had collected money from me during 2011 for getting the wheels trued. Actually I had ruled out an untrue wheel as the cause of the bullet diving to the right, after the dealer did the trueing and had assumed that I had an out of alignment frame, which some bullet have as a manufacturing defect. It was then that the wheel trueing guy said that the hub was not perfectly in centre of the rims and that was the reason the bullet was diving to the right. To be true, the issue has resolved after 12 years.

So the lesson learned : Always take a second opinion before giving upon something (especially if the first opinion was given by an RE ASS technician).

The tyre in question after trueing



regards adrian

[Majumdarda]

Guys, what is the procedure for arranging a RE Factory visit? I along with few of my group mates, are eager for once in a lifetime memory, but seems to be approaching dead ends.

Can someone please help with some contacts or procedure / charges etc?

Thanks in Advance,

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Guys, what is the procedure for arranging a RE Factory visit? I along with few of my group mates, are eager for once in a lifetime memory, but seems to be approaching dead ends.

Can someone please help with some contacts or procedure / charges etc?

Thanks in Advance,

Got this from the google search

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...4572494&type=3

[2wheelsvaga]

Hi, I have a couple of queries about the CL 350 J series.
With a full load (approx. 170 kg) how does it perform in the mountains? i.e. with 2 riders and luggage.
I am mostly thinking of its ability to go uphill. Do you feel the torque is not sufficient and it is often underpowered?
Do you notice a difference between say extreme conditions (Ladakh) and easier ones (Manali etc.)?
Is there any specific info on the upcoming 350 standard J series, and how it compares with the CL 350? If all one wanted was to get a bike for the mountains, will the standard likely suffice?
Thanks!

[Kalash_6324]

Originally Posted by adrian

Makes sense. I think I will wait it out.

So I've been experiencing the exact same issue with my 2013 Classic 350.
It feels like a pulse and only happens at lower speeds.
Only difference between our experience is that my drum brakes are at the rear.
I initially got the entire hub serviced and the bearings & brake shoes replaced and got the lever checked too, but unfortunately haven't been able to solve this issue in 7500 kms of riding.
There's enough play in the brakes for one to roll the bike front and back about an inch or two with the rear brakes applied.
This is on my list of issues that need to be addressed in the next service.
In case I'm able to get it sorted, I'll post an update here.

Also to be noted is that this has been happening without any wheel truing, so I doubt they are related.

[LongDrive lover]

I have a query:
On a Bullet 500 Standard, which would be more comfortable for long distance touring?

1. RE touring seat or 2. Khajanchi (Karol bag, Delhi) custom-made seat with or without backrest for rider too!!

Does custom made seat alter riding ergonomics, in anyway?

Thanks

[SgtGAWD]

Is it possible to install C500 clutch plates in my 2017 C350? If yes then can anyone suggest the parts required for the swap. What are the potential pros and cons of the swap? Also is it mandatory to change the engine oil whenever new clutch plates are installed.

My C350 clutch seems to be on the way out. The kicker isn't moving freely with the clutch engaged and the motorcycle jerks forward slightly whenever I engage 1st gear. The same issue occurs when I use the ES on 1st gear as well.

TIA

[aviator1101]

I own a 23 year old 350cc CI bullet which has run around 57000 kms. I use it extensively for commuting as well as touring. Of late, the bike has developed a strange problem. After washing, it refuses to start up for at least an hour. Thereafter things are normal again. Can someone help diagnose what's the problem?

[tharian]

Originally Posted by aviator1101

I own a 23 year old 350cc CI bullet which has run around 57000 kms. I use it extensively for commuting as well as touring. Of late, the bike has developed a strange problem. After washing, it refuses to start up for at least an hour. Thereafter things are normal again. Can someone help diagnose what's the problem?

Probably because of water getting into the CB points and/or spark plug.
If you have a air blower, you can use that after the wash in those areas to remove the dampness.

[aviator1101]

Originally Posted by tharian

Probably because of water getting into the CB points and/or spark plug.
If you have a air blower, you can use that after the wash in those areas to remove the dampness.

That might not be the case because I tried covering the CB point carefully with plastic before washing the bike. This issue of the CB point I am aware, I am using cast iron bullets for a very long time now. The mechanics are also unable to diagnose the actual problem.

[aviator1101]

Originally Posted by LongDrive lover

I have a query:
On a Bullet 500 Standard, which would be more comfortable for long distance touring?

1. RE touring seat or 2. Khajanchi (Karol bag, Delhi) custom-made seat with or without backrest for rider too!!

Does custom made seat alter riding ergonomics, in anyway?

Thanks

You may try Khajanchi. They are good. I am using a single seat custom made by Khajanchi for my Bullet. Sharing a picture of the same.
Where the RE touring seats have foam density as per a standard specification generally meant for long duration usage, seat makers like Khajanchi can make size, thickness, shape and foam density as per your personal requirement. If you are lucky, you may use a touring seat on some friend's bike, check whether it meets your requirements and then either go for it or go for a custom seat.

[Freespirit27]

Originally Posted by SgtGAWD

My C350 clutch seems to be on the way out. The kicker isn't moving freely with the clutch engaged and the motorcycle jerks forward slightly whenever I engage 1st gear. The same issue occurs when I use the ES on 1st gear as well.

TIA

My 2013 Bull had the similar problem but only on first engagement of gear. The solution I found was to cycle the kick lever 1 or two times - with clutch depressed till it became free prior to starting the bike first time and also when starting after longer interval.
An old mechanic said it was a case of sticky clutch & common to some 350s.
Clutch replacement should resolve the issue permanently.
As for 500 clutch assy. in 350 I can't say..

[aviator1101]

Originally Posted by SgtGAWD

Is it possible to install C500 clutch plates in my 2017 C350? If yes then can anyone suggest the parts required for the swap. What are the potential pros and cons of the swap? Also is it mandatory to change the engine oil whenever new clutch plates are installed.

My C350 clutch seems to be on the way out. The kicker isn't moving freely with the clutch engaged and the motorcycle jerks forward slightly whenever I engage 1st gear. The same issue occurs when I use the ES on 1st gear as well.

TIA

Yes, it is possible to install clutch plates of C500 in C350 but it requires some modifications. That is because the 500cc uses 6 clutch plates and 7 pressure plates whereas the 350 uses 5 clutch plates and 6 pressure plates. A good modifier should be able to do it. Many people have done it and claim the vibrations reduce and clutch becomes lighter. I have no personal experience, but would stick to the original clutch plates and would recommend you also do the same because these mods have adverse effects in the longer run.
Engine oil has nothing to do separately with clutch plate change, you may change but it is not mandatory.

[Majumdarda]

Good Day all...

I have a query in regards to my 2013 Bullet 500.

Can I directly replace the existing dual horns with Bosch's or do I need to connect a Relay too? If indeed a Relay is needed, then why?

The stock ones are 2.5A each. The battery is 12V 14 Ampere Hour (AH)
I have a pair of (30+30)W fog lights connected, via a relay and better wiring.
I also have the headlight wiring upgraded with a relay so as to support 100/90 (should my wickedness kick in) though I still use a 60/55, Osram.