[cooded]

Am sure will get a beating from wifey when she hears of this proposal, considering we just got a baby girl,

Congrats....

@Randhawa: Did you hear the clip that i posted? Also my bike was all jingle all the way today. I could hear distinct tinkling sounds...like a bell ringing in a mandir very softly...hehe...ironically i was going to a mandir...

[EssYouWe]

Congrats Nasirkaka! Loads of parties due on this thread.

How completely are you looking to seal the joint? Hope you aren't expecting complete sealing. Some amount of gases always escape and it shouldn't really be a cause for worry.

As I had mentioned earlier, loss of back pressure can cause loss of low end grunt. That might be the cause of the 'Jhatkas'. However, it is unlikely that the back pressure dips enough to cause that.
Are you sure you aren't lugging the engine?

[cooded]

Also, I know its none of my business to say this, but try dealing with your bike yourself. Don't depend on mechs too much. If you stay within rational limits, you can't do much harm to it.

@EssYouWe : Your comments are always welcome.Hemant did point it out that being sensitive to sounds from the engine and going to a mechanic to fix them might introduce more problems. I am just going to observe and report to you guys for the diagnostics till the 2nd service.

[Randhawa]

@Nasir-You could use high heat resistant silicon the one which is used for head gasket seal. That could help.

@coded- sorry to say but you have messed up with the ex- cam. You have to get the cam changed and don't bother wasting time in trying to mend it by allowing the RE mechanic to fiddle with it again. Are you feeling any hesitation in pickup between 50-80? or loss of power and longer cranking to get the bull to life in the morning?

Wont be easy to get a new one from RE although you are covered under warranty. You have to take it seriously to get it changed. Approx price is around Rs 1000 I think.

@Achint - seriously you have no clue to the C5 jhatkas we are talking about Its a special C5 thing. It has nothing to do with back pressure.

[cooded]

@coded- sorry to say but you have messed up with the ex- cam. You have to get the cam changed and don't bother wasting time in trying to mend it by allowing the RE mechanic to fiddle with it again. Are you feeling any hesitation in pickup between 50-80? or loss of power and longer cranking to get the bull to life in the morning?

@Randhawa: Well i did suspect that the mechanic messed up. The pick up of the bike has not changed at all though.There is no noticable loss of power.Although in the beginning when the bike ran on low fuel, and after i used to fill her up, i used to find an appreciable increase in pick up.However i did not find any difference for the last couple of top ups. Also can you elaborate your analysis? I mean what is ex -cam and what makes u say that the cam is faulty...so that i can point it out to the mechanic.
Thanks again
Rahul.

[Randhawa]

My analysis is based more on your description of noise then the audio file itself which is hiding a lot of high frequency noises. When the auto de-comp on exhaust cam starts sticking at higher speeds then that particular kind of noise is emitted. This has been a bone of contention for lot of people. Its either perfectly tuned from factory or its not. Yours i guess was fine but you got it opened and the mechanic fiddled with it and made it worse. If left unattended for long can damage roller on hydraulic tappet.

[nasirkaka]

Congrats Nasirkaka! Loads of parties due on this thread.

How completely are you looking to seal the joint? Hope you aren't expecting complete sealing. Some amount of gases always escape and it shouldn't really be a cause for worry.

As I had mentioned earlier, loss of back pressure can cause loss of low end grunt. That might be the cause of the 'Jhatkas'. However, it is unlikely that the back pressure dips enough to cause that.
Are you sure you aren't lugging the engine?

Hey thanks.. Always game for parties.

I am looking at a temporary sealant, as i have been shifting between the upswept, the OEM bazooka and the goldie so-far. I would want to have the flexibility of changing in the future, so would want to avoid a permanent seal.
Lugging - I dread that and take all possible precautions to avoid lugging, including always crossing a speed-breaker in 1st gear.

@ randhawa:

a couple of small queries:

1. one careful examination, when i rotate the front wheel, it appears to rotates freely. But there is a very faint sound that comes. a sound of something touching somewhere at some point in the rotation. suspect the rotar touching somewhere. Could that be the cause of the squeaking? can that be rectified/aligned/adjusted? Hope the issue in not very grave.

2. regarding the rear wheel. when i start the bike on center stand, in neutral, the rear wheel DOES NOT rotate. on most of the other bikes, incuding my machismo and my friends machismo, when the bike is started on centre stand, and in neutral, the rear wheel generally rotates. Why not on the C5? is it common to other C5 as well? Also, when i try and rotate the rear wheel by hand (on centre stand), the wheel just does 2-3 rotation. in the machismo, it does 6-7. however, there is no sound of any kind from the rear wheel on the C5. Is it normal, or something to look in to? (please note that, i recently got the chain lubricated).

[Randhawa]

1. Its the pad touching the disc. Squeaking is caused usually when there is some sand stuck to the pad, dry pad, grooved or wrapped disc. If you don't feel any grooved formed on the disc then just try a drop of brake fluid over the edge of the pad or try sanding the pads.Otherwise just replace the pads, cost Rs 250 a pair.

2. Take the chain off and you will get your answer. Thats a hint By the way thats normal for C5.

[nasirkaka]

1. Its the pad touching the disc. Squeaking is caused usually when there is some sand stuck to the pad, dry pad, grooved or wrapped disc. If you don't feel any grooved formed on the disc then just try a drop of brake fluid over the edge of the pad or try sanding the pads.Otherwise just replace the pads, cost Rs 250 a pair.

2. Take the chain off and you will get your answer. Thats a hint By the way thats normal for C5.

Thanks. Would replace the pads during the upcoming last free service. Did not understand the "DRY PAD" part. Pads were dry when i opened them last. aren't they suppose to be dry? Wont lubricating it with brake oil affect the breaking strength?

Is it really necessary to take the chain off to get the answer for the No.2? I was opting for the easier route which is "to ask you".
I am content as long as that's normal for C5s. (would be fully satisfied if you could explain a bit on that ). Hey, its time u start charging for all the trouble shooting. Or maybe, leave it, as classic owners would be broke anyways after classic entered their lives.

[adityaj]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Thanks. Would replace the pads during the upcoming last free service. Did not understand the "DRY PAD" part. Pads were dry when i opened them last. aren't they suppose to be dry? Wont lubricating it with brake oil affect the breaking strength?

Is it really necessary to take the chain off to get the answer for the No.2? I was opting for the easier route which is "to ask you".
I am content as long as that's normal for C5s. (would be fully satisfied if you could explain a bit on that ). Hey, its time u start charging for all the trouble shooting. Or maybe, leave it, as classic owners would be broke anyways after classic entered their lives.

Classic 500 + fuel + Mods + trips + RE reilability = Broke.
BTW am using Sonax wax polish on the painted parts. It looks awesome after the polish. Also the surface is smooth as silk. Loving it.

[cooded]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Hey thanks.. Always game for parties.

I am looking at a temporary sealant, as i have been shifting between the upswept, the OEM bazooka and the goldie so-far. I would want to have the flexibility of changing in the future, so would want to avoid a permanent seal.
Lugging - I dread that and take all possible precautions to avoid lugging, including always crossing a speed-breaker in 1st gear.

@ randhawa:

a couple of small queries:

1. one careful examination, when i rotate the front wheel, it appears to rotates freely. But there is a very faint sound that comes. a sound of something touching somewhere at some point in the rotation. suspect the rotar touching somewhere. Could that be the cause of the squeaking? can that be rectified/aligned/adjusted? Hope the issue in not very grave.

2. regarding the rear wheel. when i start the bike on center stand, in neutral, the rear wheel DOES NOT rotate. on most of the other bikes, incuding my machismo and my friends machismo, when the bike is started on centre stand, and in neutral, the rear wheel generally rotates. Why not on the C5? is it common to other C5 as well? Also, when i try and rotate the rear wheel by hand (on centre stand), the wheel just does 2-3 rotation. in the machismo, it does 6-7. however, there is no sound of any kind from the rear wheel on the C5. Is it normal, or something to look in to? (please note that, i recently got the chain lubricated).

@nasirkaka: I have a similar problem with the rear wheel. I got the spline adjusted but then after that i experience a particular sound. I can hear it sometimes...often with a pillion rider. I still have to solve the problem

[virtualhemant]

Originally Posted by cooded

@nasirkaka: I have a similar problem with the rear wheel. I got the spline adjusted but then after that i experience a particular sound. I can hear it sometimes...often with a pillion rider. I still have to solve the problem

You sure its not chain cover noise? Lots of people mistook it for some other sound. Check the front of the chain guard and see if you see any marks made by hitting the chain against it.

[cooded]

Originally Posted by virtualhemant

You sure its not chain cover noise? Lots of people mistook it for some other sound. Check the front of the chain guard and see if you see any marks made by hitting the chain against it.

@ virtualhemant : I will be going to the mechanic(Mr.Pawar) you suggested,today in the evening. At the moment i cant hear any sound from the rear wheel...and thats where the problem lies, because the sound comes and goes at its will.This is the condition after replacing the rear wheel bearings.So obviously replacing the rear wheel bearings was not the solution.If the sound does not pop out at the workshop then i dont know how much will the mechanic be able to help me out. Do you want me to check on your bike too when i go there?

[virtualhemant]

Originally Posted by cooded

@ virtualhemant : I will be going to the mechanic(Mr.Pawar) you suggested,today in the evening. At the moment i cant hear any sound from the rear wheel...and thats where the problem lies, because the sound comes and goes at its will.This is the condition after replacing the rear wheel bearings.So obviously replacing the rear wheel bearings was not the solution.If the sound does not pop out at the workshop then i dont know how much will the mechanic be able to help me out. Do you want me to check on your bike too when i go there?

Yeah he told me that you gonna visit him. If it's kat-kat-kat kinda sound and that comes when you deaccelarate hard then it could be chain slapping against the chain guard. Lots of people have faced this issue here. My bike had this sound initially, I did a small DIY (posted earlier in same forum or on bcmtouring) and also flattened the front end of the guard. As my bike is there, check the front of the chain guard, you will see chain marks there.

Check with your bike and see if it too has marks.

[Randhawa]

Hemant is right, lot of people mistook the noise of the chain hitting the swingarm or guard with something else.

@Nasir- When I say dry means they get very hard, more then required. With the brake oil, its hardly acts as a lubricant. Within few minutes it gets absorbed within the pads.

If you decide to change the pads then do use a 100 grit sandpaper on the disc. Yup it's necessary to take off the chain. As you will understand the issue much better without me trying to make sense. If if you want to give up then surely I'll explain

Hey come on, it will take hardly 5 minutes to do that. Just take the lock on the chain off and chain will come loose. To put it back on just loosen the drum and after putting the chain back on tighten it up again, thats it. If you decide to take it off then utilise the opportunity to wash the chain with diesel or kerosene and put it back on. You will observe the wheel doing more rounds. "HINT".

Talking about spending money, yeah tell me about it. I have not done any modifications apart from amp meter and rest of the upgrades were provided by RE for free still I have ended up spending more then 10k excluding fuel.

I should put up a charity box for C5 and you all can donate as much as you want but funds exceeding 50k will require your pan card.LOL

@Adityaj- try getting blue diamond(USA made) teflon coating. You will love the smooth glass like feel.