[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

I
had snapped off the nipple once. Got the caliper to a lathe where they
took out the broken part.

The stalling is to get parents to stop complaining!

Check for the lenght of the hose. If its the same/longer, go for it. Steel braided hoses make a huge difference in the feedback and modulation of brakes.

This will be a direct fit too for any caliper and any MC combination?

Any MC can be fitted from any bike. My RX is running a master cylinder
from an Aprilia RS125. Its just a matter of whch MC works best for you.

How different do you expect the MC of a Yamaha R15 to be from the MC of a P220 (the new ones with Bybre) to be with regard to brake bite and feedback?

ETS ones lack proper feedback and are the on-off variety, i.e., brake modulation is difficult.
On my ZMA I'm running a Pulsar 180 MC, Avenger brake lever (longer and
more leverage), Pulsar 220 SS braided hose, stock ZMA caliper with EBC
HH sintered brake pads, slightly modified front suspension. Well the EBCs ran out and have replaced them with RTR pads. My front wheels would lock up at 80KMPH if I panic braked ever, brakes were too much for my tyres and suspension. No locks however with RTR pads but brakes feel bit mushy.

I've been intending to get the Avenger brake lever myself. I guess I would love the P220 MC + Avenger Lever + P220 SS Hose combination. But how sure are you that this will work with the stock caliper? Because it ought to cost around 1.5k for the MC alone. Don't want to spend 2k in vain.

But doubt I can do much at the caliper end, I've swapped over to
asbestos brakes from the Unicorn as I read that non-asbestos brakes
aren't as sharp, but didn't make much of a difference. But I read about EBC, looks promising. But are these cost effective considering they need to be imported? How can I choose the right Pad?

[sagarpadaki]

Hey Sunny, I have the UG3 pulsar 180 which has ETS master cylinder assembly. I presume you are taking about the assembly which holds the brake oil and has a loaded spring which gets activated by the lever?

So I am assuming that since mine is pulsar fitting the KBX or bybre assembly must be straight forward. But how to ensure that the assembly is of bybre? Are all 220 master cylinder assemblies made by them? How much would the whole set up including the steel braided cable would cost?

Also any modification needs to be done at the caliper assemble at the wheel?

[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Hey Sunny, I have the UG3 pulsar 180 which has ETS master cylinder assembly. I presume you are taking about the assembly which holds the brake oil and has a loaded spring which gets activated by the lever?

So I am assuming that since mine is pulsar fitting the KBX or bybre assembly must be straight forward. But how to ensure that the assembly is of bybre? Are all 220 master cylinder assemblies made by them? How much would the whole set up including the steel braided cable would cost?

Also any modification needs to be done at the caliper assemble at the wheel?

Yes, he is referring the same cylinder.

While the Master Cylinder of the 220 will fit just fine, I believe the problem will be the thread for the mirror! The 220 mirror is mounted on the Headlamp Fairing and not on the handlebar near the Master Cylinder. I believe we'll need to source the Master Cylinder of the 220S, which is the 220 minus the fairing if we are to get this setup to work while having eyes at the back of our heads.

And how to find out if the assembly is from Bybre? AFAIK, the lid on the top of the master cylinder generally has the company's name on it. The present day Hero's have Bybre on the lid.

The cost for the Master Cylinder will be around 1500 and the Braided Hose Lines from what I could gather are around 400-500. The whole thing should cost 2000 in total minus labour charges.

I believe the R15 Master Cylinder with the P220 Steel Braided Hose Lines will be the best mix as the R15 master cylinder does have threads for the mirror as well(The same ones are used on the FZ I think) and gives amazing feedback to the rider.

[girimajiananth]

Originally Posted by ashwin.terminat

Planned Changes:

• Brakes: The new CBZ Xtreme and Hunk come with Bybre brakes post the Hero and Honda split for the front and the brakes on my bike being a Hero Honda, has very spongy brakes. Would like to get the Master Cylinder changed to the newly available ones, get a pair of KBX asbestos pads and some DOT4 fluid and check out how effective the braking might be.

Did you get the brake upgraded ? Any difference compared to the old one?

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by ashwin.terminat

Yes, he is referring the same cylinder.

While the Master Cylinder of the 220 will fit just fine, I believe the problem will be the thread for the mirror! The 220 mirror is mounted on the Headlamp Fairing and not on the handlebar near the Master Cylinder. I believe we'll need to source the Master Cylinder of the 220S, which is the 220 minus the fairing if we are to get this setup to work while having eyes at the back of our heads.

And how to find out if the assembly is from Bybre? AFAIK, the lid on the top of the master cylinder generally has the company's name on it. The present day Hero's have Bybre on the lid.

The cost for the Master Cylinder will be around 1500 and the Braided Hose Lines from what I could gather are around 400-500. The whole thing should cost 2000 in total minus labour charges.

I believe the R15 Master Cylinder with the P220 Steel Braided Hose Lines will be the best mix as the R15 master cylinder does have threads for the mirror as well(The same ones are used on the FZ I think) and gives amazing feedback to the rider.

Sorry for the late reply, somehow missed this thread.

Master cylinders from the same manufacturers (bybre ets) but different companies (hero Yamaha) are very similar in design but different in looks. Cheapest one from bybre across different companies will be the best bet.

Pulsar ones are cheap



Cost me 800 plus 12 for a banjo bolt. The SS braided hose from 220 is expensive, Rs 1107.

[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by girimajiananth

Did you get the brake upgraded ? Any difference compared to the old one?

I didn't get the brake upgraded! Well, not yet.

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Sorry for the late reply, somehow missed this thread.

Master cylinders from the same manufacturers (bybre ets) but different companies (hero Yamaha) are very similar in design but different in looks. Cheapest one from bybre across different companies will be the best bet.

Pulsar ones are cheap

Cost me 800 plus 12 for a banjo bolt. The SS braided hose from 220 is expensive, Rs 1107.

Thanks a lot for the update! How'd the installation go?

But, Yamaha also uses brakes from Bybre, but the feel of the brakes are much more different compared to Pulsars. Is it because of the calliper end or is it the Master Cylinder?

And the brake lever, is it possible to buy only the Master Cylinder and use the chrome lever from the Avenger? Or is it better to just buy the Master Cylinder of the Avenger?

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by ashwin.terminat

Thanks a lot for the update! How'd the installation go?

This was a very old pic, master cylinder I bought for the NSR in Singapore, sourced it from India where its much cheaper

Originally Posted by ashwin.terminat

But, Yamaha also uses brakes from Bybre, but the feel of the brakes are much more different compared to Pulsars. Is it because of the calliper end or is it the Master Cylinder?

Brakes as a whole are a function of combination of all the components. I have just posted what I've observed when I keep all other variables constant and change only master cylinders.

Originally Posted by ashwin.terminat

And the brake lever, is it possible to buy only the Master Cylinder and use the chrome lever from the Avenger? Or is it better to just buy the Master Cylinder of the Avenger?

Avenger brake lever is a direct fit to pulsar kbx maser cylinder, does not ets. Why not get an entire avenger master cylinder then?

[DRIV3R]

The new 150s also come with BYBRE, I have purchased the whole kit, master cylinder, caliper, but I am yet to install, it has been more than a year since I bought them.

My stock brakes are crappy Endurance ETS ones.

[ashwin.terminat]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Brakes as a whole are a function of combination of all the components. I have just posted what I've observed when I keep all other variables constant and change only master cylinders.

Avenger brake lever is a direct fit to pulsar kbx maser cylinder, does not ets. Why not get an entire avenger master cylinder then?

Oh! What about the mirrors? Direct fits in the threads provided in the Pulsar MC? I'm assuming all mirrors have similar threads?

I guess an Avenger Master Cylinder set is a better bet (if one desires Chrome levers). Instead of getting the Pulsar MC and swapping it with the Avenger levers.

Originally Posted by DRIV3R

The new 150s also come with BYBRE, I have purchased the whole kit, master cylinder, caliper, but I am yet to install, it has been more than a year since I bought them.

My stock brakes are crappy Endurance ETS ones.

How much did the entire set cost?

[DRIV3R]

Originally Posted by ashwin.terminat

How much did the entire set cost?

Something around 2k+. (maybe 2.2k, not sure since it almost an year) This was majorly the master cylinder, the caliper and supporting components. I remember the BYBRE calipers came with brake pads as well.

[ashwin.terminat]

Here's a recent picture of the bike

[ashwin.terminat]

Guys, Race Concepts recently posted this:

If your vehicle has our Big bore kit and head work, in the very least one must go up a jet size by at least 2.5, I. E. The stock pulsar 220 carb has a 115 main jet and to properly fuel an engine with head work and a big bore kit, it is recommended to up jet to Atleast a 117.5 main jet.

And since my bike has gotten both, the big bore and the headwork upgrade. I believe an upjet is warranted.

The Main Jet of the Hunk/Xtreme is 128. And going by their post, I need a 130.5. I have never done anything related to the jets till date. Hence I ask, how do I source one? :P

[Rachit.K.Dogra]

Originally Posted by ashwin.terminat

Guys, Race Concepts recently posted this:


And since my bike has gotten both, the big bore and the headwork upgrade. I believe an upjet is warranted.

The Main Jet of the Hunk/Xtreme is 128. And going by their post, I need a 130.5. I have never done anything related to the jets till date. Hence I ask, how do I source one? :P

In my experience its not a big deal. You should be able to get a 130mm jet from any local motor cycle spare parts guy. I think even fitting the jet in the carb should not also be a big chalange.

[ashkamath]

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Originally Posted by ashwin.terminat

Guys, Race Concepts recently posted this:


And since my bike has gotten both, the big bore and the headwork upgrade. I believe an upjet is warranted.

The Main Jet of the Hunk/Xtreme is 128. And going by their post, I need a 130.5. I have never done anything related to the jets till date. Hence I ask, how do I source one? :P

Hi Ashwin, could you please provide me with the contact details of Joel Joseph of Race Concepts?. this is Ashok from Goa and Joel is a dear friend of mine and we rode together in mid 2000 while he had a Suzuki Fiero and I had a Pulsar 180.
I ride a Duke 390 now and intend to do some performance mods on my bike.

[Akhilash95]

Originally Posted by ashkamath

Hi Ashwin, could you please provide me with the contact details of Joel Joseph of Race Concepts?. this is Ashok from Goa and Joel is a dear friend of mine and we rode together in mid 2000 while he had a Suzuki Fiero and I had a Pulsar 180. I ride a Duke 390 now and intend to do some performance mods on my bike.

Please think twice before doing any core performance mods to your bike like headwork, camshaft, etc. There is a high rate of failure in these kits and mods where hardly any scientific calculations done. There is enough evidence regarding this in the " FZ18" thread on xbhp.
PS- I have nothing personal against the tooner just stating facts.
PPS- U could get a remap or orangetronic ECU and the official akrapovic exhaust for extracting more power.