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The wobbling on U turn happens due to uneven wear of the front tyres. I changed my tyres about two months back to Continental as five years had gone by and 48k in the ODO. Was also fed up with the hard Ceat by then.i had atleast 5k left too.

I managed to figure out the bumper screw fasteners but broke one when trying to remove with a fork. Will just break all and replace, easier.

Guys want to share my recent experience when installing a new stereo on my TUV AMT T10. My car is 5 years old and decided to fit a 360 camera system. During the installation process, we did a lot of reverse gear engaging, left and right turn indicators etc when the engine was switched off. When we were done and decided to leave, the car started but the gears would not engage. Tried for a long time then called Mahindra Road side assistance. A local service center called me and suggested i get the vehicle towed and drop it off at their workshop. I tried many things, including reversing the stereo wiring and disconnecting the battery. Nothing worked and after about an hour of attempting, i was planning to call the RSA tow truck when i tried a last ditch attemp and the gears suddenly engaged. I got home and from that day for a few days this gear issue persisted on and off. I decided to check the health of my battery and found that the car would start just fine but the cranking voltage was falling to 6.8v and i would get the engine warning light for a few seconds on car start.
Decided to change the battery and this problem of gear not engaging as well as the check engine light went away. Hope it helps others.

Hi, I had to barge into this thread since a friend sent me this link out of curiosity and what surprised me is that after keeping the car in accessory/on mode without engine running you would have drained the battery quite a bit which led to the AMT trouble. This has happened in my Celerio AMT as well but after this happens the car doesn't crank. In your case the car cranked fine but you said the AMT was not moving gears. Thats not really related to a weak battery since even if the voltage is low, the AMT Pump would still run but at a weaker capacity. Generally the AMT Pump will run only for a few seconds every minute or so and build pressure in the system. After that it turns off until the built pressure is consumed or gets decayed. So if you had this issue after battery voltage went low, there isn't enough pressure being created in the system. Could happen if the AMT Pump is weak or accumulator has a slight leak. Things worked for you later because the voltage in the car would have improved and the pump could build enough pressure to engage gears. But this is not normal. For example, the pump in my car runs for ten seconds every 4-5minutes when left unused. That means the accumulator can hold that pressure without much loss.

Better get the AMT pressure and pump status checked at the ASC to prevent any chances of a full failure of the AMT box.

Thanks will do. Just want to add that the gears continued to engage when the engine is not turned on. I was made to understand there are sensors that prevent certain functions based on the health of the battery. I will have the AMT pressure and pump status checked as the 50k service is just around the corner.

I have been following this thread since I Purchased my TUV 2016 T8 but sharing my experience for the first time here. Recently I experimented with a staggered Tyre set up in my TUV. That means the front tyres I kept it the same stock size which is 215/75R15 as there was still some thread left on it. But the rear I upsized to 235/75R15(Goodyear Wrangler RTS) as the rear ones where fully worn out. Initially I was bit apprehensive whether the ABS kicking in early or not but that did not happen. My rear springs sagged a bit over the years and upsizing the rear tyres regained the vehicle stance. The advantage of this setup from my experience is that the steering feel and lightness remains the same and if you upsize the front tyres to 235/75R15 it will foul against the fenders and splash shield in extreme scenarios as I learned from other TUVians. Last January I went on a long Road trip to North Sikkim all the way from Kerala and really liked this set up. Also the ride quality at the rear improved and feels like the TUV has longer legs now but I know that the speedometer might be showing 3-4KMPH less than the Actual figure.

Forgot to mention that my TUV has now clocked around 100000Kms and I think the Dual mass flywheel is having it's last breath as I get intermittent noise from the bell housing area and severe clutch pedal vibrations. Already replaced the master and slave cylinders under warranty at around 40000Kms.

My Mahindra Mechanic told me that my front suspension ball joints are due for replacement. Just want to know from my felow TUVians whether the ball joints need to be replaced this early or not? Also I have noticed that front camber angle was out during the last wheel alignment check.

@Mile Muncher, it looks like you don't do periodic tyre rotation. Uneven wear in tires can increase suspension problems. Also , upsizing rear tires don't have effect on speedo readings. Speedo is read from front tyre rotations.

TUV is a rear wheel drive vehicle and the speedometer sensor is in transmission which is connected to rear wheels. On new generation vehicles the instrument cluster takes information from ABS module.

My Jan 2018 manufactured TUV 300 T8 emits a thin/shrill whistling noise that can be heard with the windows down, only after a cold start. A lay man wouldn't even bother with this noise. When I slot into 1st gear and move for a 100 feet, the noise persists. By the time I move on to higher speeds and gears, the noise disappears.

Based on past experience, it sounds to me as if there's play in a rotary pulley (the wheel for the water pump comes to mind), but why would this noise appear and disappear like this. Any thoughts?

I had the same symptoms in my previous Bolero. Thin shrill/whistling sound on cold start and running for first few minutes, and then the sound would go away.

Both times it was diagnosed as a loose fan belt and the belt was tightened by adjusting the pulley.

Both times the belt gave up after a few weeks in the middle of the night, causing harassment. From then onwards I've vowed to replace the belts if they come loose after significant usage.

I'm not saying yours is the same situation. Maybe an FNG can diagnose better.
However, given that the symptoms are similar and your vehicle has run for 5.5 years, if the belts are diagnosed to be the culprit I would suggest changing the belts instead of tightening, just for the peace of mind. :)

Hi Locusjag,

Long time! The issue sounds familiar to me... it could be the issue as mentioned by Anantpoddar above or see this issue https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/offic...ml#post4576278 which I encountered in my 2015 TUV. The source of the sound/whistle was the power steering pump.

My car 2016MY used to make similar noise. I continued driving ignoring the noise and finally the drive belt for alternator/powersteering pump broken on the road. Luckily I managed to drive it to a workshop and replaced both the belts. After 5 years even if the belt looks good its better to replace them because the rubber material deteriorates.

Friends, those of you who have your TUVs with you for last 6-8 years now, might be facing an issue with the remote key. The plastic where we press the buttons (lock & open) might have worn out and inner circuitry visible. If your remote key is working fine, then you can get just the upper key cover replaced from your MASC just for Rs 100/-. I got it replaced for both my remote keys and they are looking brand new. Further details on my ownership thread in the message below.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-...ml#post5579363

Friends, most of you might be aware of the horrific accident today on the Delhi-Meerut highway in which a school bus collided head on with a TUV (carrying 8 passengers), in which 6 lives were lost for no fault of their own. The school bus was being driven on the wrong side for almost 7km on the highway and the poor TUV driver who was on the rightmost fast lane couldn't take any aversive action to prevent the head-on collision with the bus. Fortunately, there were no kids in the bus else this could have been very horrendous.

I think driving on the right most lane has become very risky and it's better to stick to the middle lane if you are driving on a 6-lane highway.

https://youtu.be/e0hgR_pzROM

In July this year my daughter was driving the TUV when the coolant seems to have leaked and led to Engine failure. The car develeoped a tinny noise from the engine and the heat warning came. Had to get the engine overhauled. Cost me 1.7L. Took two months and on getting my car back i am now facing the AMT gearbox going to neutral when there is a sudden deceleration due to braking. Sometimes when starting it does not go to reverse. Have to switch off and start again for the gears to engage. The AMT warning light is always on and the service center says it could be a sensor issue.
Anyone had this fixed? I am talking to another gentleman in Chennai with the same AMT issue. Any clues to fix will he appreciated. Service center is not confident that a replacement of the Power Pack or Sensor unit will fix this.

I tried asking in TUV WhatsApp groups and no answer to this so far, sorry. I did hear that the supplier who used to make AMT parts for Mahindra is not making them anymore and that a different supplier is expected to step in to support existing TUV AMT.