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Quote:
Originally Posted by procrj
(Post 4989886)
This seems to be a battery related issue as there were no error codes. I would suggest you
a)Check voltage at idle and ensure that the battery is getting the necessary power to get charged. If not, you will need to get alternator checked and replaced if necessary. Battery charging error doesnt come up in cases of low voltage.
b)Check all the drive belts and replace them if you are close to 1L kms on the Odo or if you have been driving in a lot of city traffic regularly over years. |
You were right - it was alternator. Some parts of it went kaput and I had to get those changed. Wasted a whole day 😡😡
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntomer
(Post 4990135)
You were right - it was alternator. Some parts of it went kaput and I had to get those changed. Wasted a whole day |
Good to know the problem got root caused and hopefully fixed for good. Nothing worse than a lingering problem. Could you share details of the parts that went kaput and cost?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntomer
(Post 4990135)
You were right - it was alternator. Some parts of it went kaput and I had to get those changed. Wasted a whole day 😡😡 |
Wow!! How much has your car run? I would not really put emphasis on number of years as that seldom matters but how many Kms did the stock Alternator serve you?
To me, this looks like a premature failure for one of the most simplest yet a crucial component like the alternator, that can leave you stranded on road all of a sudden without a hint.
So, a failed alternator ensured your car could be driven for few Kms all alone on the battery power till the voltage dropped and all sensors started to throw errors for not getting the optimal voltage and the engine shutting down.
Please take it up with the ASC and find out why this failed in the first place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntomer
(Post 4990135)
You were right - it was alternator. Some parts of it went kaput and I had to get those changed. |
I have experience of this. I had posted earlier on this
thread.
In my case the cause was given as coolant fluid went inside the alternator. Details
here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by airbus
(Post 4990356)
I have experience of this. I had posted earlier on this thread.
In my case the cause was given as coolant fluid went inside the alternator. Details here. |
Wow. I was given the same explanation.
And when I sad it's bad engineering on Mahindra's part, they made all kind of excuses.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sathyasuri
(Post 4960455)
...TUV being a TUV sprang a surprise last evening when I turned on the AC, I think I heard a short unusual whistle and kaput hot air started blowing.
Took the car to the Mahindra service this morning, the mechanic checked for the coolant gas in the HVAC and it has completely leaked... |
An update on this issue, after a few part not available sir and we are fully booked excuses the vehicle went in for repair in the first week of Jan-2021. Meanwhile, I had engaged with the Customercare and they said they will do the best they can, also hinted at 25% discount on parts and labour.
I had dropped the vehicle for this repair around 11:00 AM and was told that the repair would take 2-3 days. But I got a call at 2:00 PM the same day saying it was done! Reason for the quick turn around: looks the culprit for the gas leak was a O-Ring (washer in normal parlance) in the HVAC system. The whole repair had taken less than 30 mins. The effort was so little and the part cost being only INR14 the SA deemed it not to be fit for billing and gave back the vehicle at 5:00 PM that day itself after a 60 KM trial run.
The vehicle has since then done about 1K KM and the cooling is fine. And thus... the TUV's quirkiness happily continues...lol:
Hi,
Does the TUV have a timing chain or belt? And when is it recommended to be changed?
My car has done 98K and somehow I forgot to get it changed. I am off to a trek tomorrow and will be driving it to Sankri - a pretty remote place. Though the car is showing no unusual sounds/issues, I am wondering whether it'd be a good idea to take it.
Your thoughts?
Thanks
Nitin
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntomer
(Post 4994033)
timing chain or belt? |
AFAIK replacement not needed. Checked this with a few folks who have done 1.2+L kms with their TUV. The only replacement needed at 1L kms is the auto tensioner and drive belts.
Edit: Checked Scorpio threads as well and it looks like the timing chain doesnt need replacement even on the Scoprio
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntomer
(Post 4994033)
Hi,
Does the TUV have a timing chain or belt? And when is it recommended to be changed?
My car has done 98K and somehow I forgot to get it changed. I am off to a trek tomorrow and will be driving it to Sankri - a pretty remote place. Though the car is showing no unusual sounds/issues, I am wondering whether it'd be a good idea to take it.
Your thoughts?
Thanks
Nitin |
TUV uses timing chain, you can have it inspected whenever the water pump needs a replacement.
If you are using this vehicle to go to remote places and worried about it, I suggest getting the vehicle out for a test drive and evaluation at the service center. Let the test driver note down his concerns, have the technicians further inspect it on the lift before giving you the good and bad news.
Remember to spare no expense when it comes to vehicles that take you to such places and back, it's always worth it.
Always change your engine oil as per schedule and use OE supplied oil, periodically check the oil level as well, this is how you keep your timing chain healthy.
For the first time ever, saw a completely flat rear tyre when exiting vijapura.
A big nail was the cause. The tank has done ~57k and so probably the tank needs a new set of tyres.
Also I am now frequently seeing the water in fuel indicator on the instrument cluster. usually if i brake or go over the bump, the indicator is lit momentarily.
My troubles with TUV don't seem to end. It behaved perfectly for first 5 years-90K KMs but last six months-10K KMs have been horrid. I can't change the car because I have moved to Pune and need a car in Delhi - but don't want to buy a new one.
I went to Kedarkantha trek on Friday; drove up to Sankri. While driving suddenly speedo needle dropped to zero and remained like that for half an hour - even ODO and Trip meter didn't increment in that period and there was a perceptible loss of power. After half an hour, it went back to working perfectly. Same thing happened while returning.
Is it some sensor failure? What could have gone wrong?
Thanks
Nitin
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntomer
(Post 4997620)
Is it some sensor failure? What could have gone wrong? |
Though I dont own Tuv300, but same thing happened in my fusion 10 years back, speedo needle fall to '0' with reduction in engine power.
It turned out to be v sensor malfunction and car was good to go after its replacement. Costed 2200/- including labour at that time.
This happens to me often. I had a mini heart attack the first time it happened. I thought the vehicle will come to a grinding halt, but nothing happened. As there was no issue to run-turn-stop, I continued cruising with both needles at 0 and gear shift indicator at "N". The entire combimeter came back to life after 8 to 10 kms.
After that, many times i have noticed the meter restarting during regular driving. The needles turn to the extreme end and come back to 0 for no reason, stay there for a while and then moves up to the actual driving position. All this happens without any impact to driving.
I have learnt to ignore it !!
Hi,
I have also faced same issue couple of times. It doesnt impact driving the vehicle. Have made a video of it & shown to technician at Mahindra. They found the culprit to be a failed speedometer sensor. It was changed under warranty for free. Took 10 minutes hardly to rectify the issue.
So all those facing this issue get the sensor checked & changed.
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shrinz.vivek
(Post 4999545)
This happens to me often. I had a mini heart attack the first time it happened. I thought the vehicle will come to a grinding halt, but nothing happened. As there was no issue to run-turn-stop, I continued cruising with both needles at 0 and gear shift indicator at "N". The entire combimeter came back to life after 8 to 10 kms.
After that, many times i have noticed the meter restarting during regular driving. The needles turn to the extreme end and come back to 0 for no reason, stay there for a while and then moves up to the actual driving position. All this happens without any impact to driving.
I have learnt to ignore it !! |
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