Hi All,
Just reached back last night after completing Delhi-Manali-Leh-Srinagar-Delhi in my VW Polo (1.2 Petrol). The route that we took was Delhi-Manali-Leh-Srinagar-Jammu-Pathankot-Jalandhar-Delhi. While I will be writing a detailed travelogue in a few days, here are a few pointers, route updates and highlights from the trip:
Timelines:
- We left Delhi on Saturday, 20th July, reached Leh on Monday 22nd July. Started our return on Monday, 29th July and reached back by Wednesday night, 31st July.
- Overnight stoppages (1 night each) were at Manali, Jispa during the onward journey to Leh. Srinagar and Jammu during the return journey.
Permits:
- Manali - Leh permit was taken care of by the guys with whom we booked our accommodation for the night. Checked with Drifters Inn who refused to get the permit and so we finally stayed at Red House cafe where Raj got the permit for us. As an alternate, one can also get this done by the guys at Hotel Ibex in Jispa. There booking office is in Manali and they can meet up with you on your way and give you the permit.
A third option, which I got to know of only while entering Manali was, at the environment/green tax payment booth. While you pay a 200 INR green fee while entering, the clerk at that office offered to give us the permit right there based on a license and RC copy and it was close to 10 PM that time. So for everybody, who gets a little delayed in reaching Manali, this option is worth a try so that the wait for the SDM office to open up does not delay you the next morning.
- Inner line permit for places around Leh (Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri, Turtuk, Panamik etc.) - Issued only in Leh. I parked the car in Leh at our hotel as it had some workshop related work and decided to use rented taxis for the visits to the above mentioned places. The taxi guy secured the permit for us and did not charge extra for it, as we had negotiated a deal for quite a few places with him. But from what he told me, you just need any id proofs for all travelers (PAN Card, License, Voter Id, Passport etc etc) and easily get the permit in about 20 minutes. So nothing to worry on this front. Not sure if something extra is needed for further places like Chushul and Hanle.
Road Conditions:
- Delhi to Manali - Good roads. A few bad patches before entering the Himachal border, but those could be due to the downpour the previous night. Also, before reaching Manali, we crossed a longish patch of kacha roads. Not really sure if that is the main route and if there was an alternate, better route.
- Manali to Rohtang - Good roads for the first 80% of the route. Worst stretch of the entire journey for the last 20% of this stretch. The heavy rains on Friday (19th July) caused a huge slush deposit (around the Rani Nallah area). It seemed longer, but it lasted easily for a couple of kms. I saw larger vehicles like a Duster and an Innova also struggling in it, so I was almost certain that my Polo would have to really push hard to get through. It did get stuck for a bit, however the reverse & forward technique to build momentum and a little pushing by the locals took it through. Based on the advice from a local cabbie (which I later realized, I shouldn't have taken), pushed the car on a high RPM and very low clutch release. It did get the car through, but ate massively into the clutch plate. Could feel the clutch becoming really loose after that patch. It did not however give up then, and took me safely and delightfully to Leh. But this slushy patch, set the expectations right and we hoped and prayed that we don't get more rain on the way.
- Rohtang - Khoksar - Bad roads. Infact, some stretches there are no roads. It’s just a kacha road, with a lot of sand and stones. Slight slushy areas were there as well, but nothing to beat the rohtang stretch. There was some road clearing work being done by the BRO which held us up for about an hour, but nothing major.
- Khoksar to Keylong - Same story. No roads to bad roads. There are some short stretches of great roads but they end suddenly and abruptly, leading to stones and flowing water filled patches. Doable, but with caution. It’s a good idea to ask your co passengers to get off and walk if you are doing this in a small car with not the most luxurious GC. The underbelly will definitely take a few hits.
- Keylong to Jispa - We were told that this patch would be very smooth, however it wasn't. The same gravel and stone roads as a result of double laning in progress. Only about 5-6 (maybe 10) kms before Jispa, did we find great roads where we could think of accelerating.
Overnight Stay at Hotel Ibex Jispa
- Jispa to Barlachala - Good roads, with small patches of no roads and 2-3 famous water crossings (including the one at Zing Zing Bar). By now, we had seen and done enough and a good thing that we started pretty early in the morning. So this was not a worry. A little caution and low water flow due to early morning, allowed us to cross these peacefully.
- Barlachala to Sarchu - Mix of good/bad/stone/gravel roads.
- Sarchu to Pang - Good stretches along with bad ones. At places, the roads are quite narrow (single lane). So be a little careful if there is a vehicle coming in from the other side.
- Pang to Tanglang La - This is the last hurdle and a pretty long one too. While the Moore plains will give you a wide smile and lots of happiness, but this lasts only for 15-20 odd kms. You can speed up nicely and try to make up for the lost time till now in the first half. After this however, the road is still under construction. So the delicious tarmac ends, and you are back on a sand and gravel road which lasts for a good 30 plus kms before you start your ascend to Tanglang La (second highest pass). As it is with all passes, the ascends and descends are the painful bit. A long climb, this one, full of sand/gravel/pot holes and possibly some slush (if it has rained recently).
- Tanglang La to Leh - After the first rough 2-3 kms, this road is blissful. New, dark grey tarmac and you can quickly cover this stretch till Rumtse. From Rumtse till Upshi, the roads are fairly good with small sections of bad/no roads or sand/gravel filled roads. Upshi to Leh is smooth, through the army cantonment and alongside Indus river.
- Overall - About 70% bad roads, 30% good to great roads.
- Leh to Srinagar - Much better roads for the majority of this stretch. If you have done the Manali - Leh stretch, this is going to be a cake walk. Leh to Lamayaru are perfect roads. you will cross the magnetic hill, pathar sahib gurudwara and the indus-zanskar confluence at Nimmu. You can speed up and quickly cross this stretch. Roads are fine between Lamayaru to Kargil as well, barring a few bad stretches around Fotu La (the standard mountain pass issue). Roads from Kargil to Dras are fairly okay and it is after Dras that the road condition deteriorates. Not as much as anything on the Manali-Leh route, but it will slow you down none the less. I am not sure, which part was this, but you again get a very good & scenic patch with excellent roads for about 20-25 odd kms (with an armed jawaan patrolling the roads every 100 meters) after which you start approaching the Zoji La.
- Slightly bad roads to begin with and then you reach the cemented brick roads area. Once that finishes, the road conditions worsens. There was a part of the road, which the BRO guys had just cleared and it had quite a steep climb after a mud filled stretch. While SUVs crossed it easily, it was sufficient to give any small car driver a nightmare. I crossed that with both my co passengers off the car. The descent is pretty bad too, but once you are closer to the base, the concrete makes a much awaited come back. From Sonamarg to Srinagar, roads are good. You can speed up and cover this in about an hour and a half.
- Try and cross Zoji La before 3 PM on any day, as the BRO usually undertakes maintenance activities between 3 to 5 every day and you will have to stop if this is on. We waited for almost 2 hours at this stretch
- Overall for this route - 70% Great roads, 30% a mix of not so good to bad roads. Zoji la is the only major obstacle.
A few inputs from my end:
- I did it in a small car, possibly the one with the least GC (VW Polo). So I cant say it is not doable, but be prepared for a lot of under belly hits and tense moments in case there is slush and heavy water crossings. For SUVs it's a pleasure and for the ones with 4X4 it is a cake walk.
- Before starting each leg, check with locals about the weather ahead. Advisable to hold back if there is rain
- Travel light, the lesser the weight in the car, the better will it be
- Start early on all mornings, specially after Manali. This will ensure that all major water crossings are light on water level/flow. It usually increases as the day progresses.
- Meat-Chawal at Chandra Dhaba at Khoksar is a must have.
- Neither of us were affected by any AMS, after Jispa, or at Sarchu or at Leh. We did take a Diamox while leaving Jispa but that's the only time we took it. However, do carry them with you and also pick up disposable oxygen cylinders.
- After having taken a Diamox, a friend still kept complaining pins & needles in hands/legs. We thought, it was a symptom of further AMS and kept giving oxygen to counter it. Nothing happened, and it was only later that we found that it was one of the side effects of Diamox
Will post some pictures along with a travelogue shortly. Safe travels to all those who are planning it. Be adequately equipped and advise caution while doing it.