[RRR]

Originally Posted by Reaper666

But I still love the Bonnie. She's a 2013 and so comes with no electronic aids. An absolute hoot in the twisties, especially so if you're comfortable with the tail stepping out a little bit.(No ABS, no Traction Control, loads of torque thanks to a big bore kit and freer flowing full system TOR exhaust). The only downside in my eyes is the ground clearance. She tends to scrape even when the suspension is raised to the highest setting. Looking forward to put a strong bash plate. It does look like the new gen Bonnie's have better clearance but wanted to know if you've experienced something similar. Cheers! 🤘🏼

Damn!! that sounds like really bad experiences, We had an A3 Bonnie in the gang and we didn't hear anything from him on ground clearance but he did mention about occasional pops from exhaust which he was not a fan of!
I absolutely loved the exhaust note of A3!
I have a 2020 Street Twin and didn't face any issues with clearance at all! I do have to approach any broken road/humps very carefully when I have pillion though.
The terrain we had was extremely slushy (No Asphalt) and lots of loose rocks you can see it in this video (post 12:00 min)

https://youtu.be/ST3tDo5AMyo

I'm curious to know how do you usually approach a road-hump? I mean do you let go the front brakes completely or not? If your front brakes are engaged when you approach a road-hump, your front springs are already compressed and that will impact the clearance. Its better to shed speed and let go the front brakes before the hump.

[Reaper666]

Originally Posted by RRR

I'm curious to know how do you usually approach a road-hump? I mean do you let go the front brakes completely or not? If your front brakes are engaged when you approach a road-hump, your front springs are already compressed and that will impact the clearance. Its better to shed speed and let go the front brakes before the hump.

I've tried both approaches but she tends to bottom out on most Bangalore speed humps. Let's not even talk about when there's a pillion! I typically have to take the bump at an angle the way you see folks in Lambos and Ferraris do. I literally creep at crawling speeds till I clear the humps. Initially thought it had something to do with the shocks but that was quickly ruled out by our mechanic. The only other Triumph I've seen having a very similar issue is the Speedmaster. The scrapes just hurt your soul! I'd still be alright if it was just minor scrapes, but the ensuing oil leak is what really troubles me.

[D3A]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

As always, any queries are most welcome! Till next time Ride Safe

Hi.

The rear brakes on the ST are useless, please rely on the front brakes, the rear brakes only help to reduce speed but cant stop the bike.

The stock suspension is soft, and will bottom out with a pillion. I have the Fox RSU on mine, absolutely love them, but expensive.

The stock tyres are pretty bad. The grip in wet and on rough roads is bad, and they suffer from tramlining. Also every tyre has air pressure limit, with 40 at the back please check that u r not exceeding the limit.

I moved the number plate to below the headlight and it rubbed against the mudguard with the front forks fully compressed. I had to bend the number plate relocator a bit. Do keep that in mind when u buy the number plate relocator.

Over time I recommend that u decat your ST. It breathes a lot more freely and cures the suffocation at higher RPMs.

If u want any more info feel free to send me a DM.

I have a decat/ xpipe, booster plug, DNA performance Air filter, Handlebar risers, bench seat, fox rsu, number plate relocator, sump guard, tail tidy, led indicators and running pirelli scorpion trail 2 tyres.



Regards
D3A

[D3A]

Since I can't find the button to edit my post, im posting my ST's pics in a new post. My apologies if it is an inconvenience. Plz click on the photo for better resolution.

[D3A]

Originally Posted by Reaper666

But I still love the Bonnie. She's a 2013 and so comes with no electronic aids. An absolute hoot in the twisties, especially so if you're comfortable with the tail stepping out a little bit.(No ABS, no Traction Control, loads of torque thanks to a big bore kit and freer flowing full system TOR exhaust). The only downside in my eyes is the ground clearance. She tends to scrape even when the suspension is raised to the highest setting. Looking forward to put a strong bash plate. It does look like the new gen Bonnie's have better clearance but wanted to know if you've experienced something similar. Cheers! 🤘🏼

Hi.
Apart from getting a strong bash plate, you can try the following:

1) Thicker/ heavier weight fork oil for the front forks. (Will stiffen the front)
2) Adjustable shocks at the rear. (expensive) (adjustable compression and/or rebound)
3) Fork risers for the front forks. (will increase the height of the front forks, giving you some more ground clearance)

Regards
D3A

[RRR]

Recently did Bangalore- Hampi ride, 60% of the ride was in the rain and it was really windy throughout. I was surprised how confident I felt cruising at 100kmph in the rain, I was shocked to see how well the stock Pirelli SportsComp performed in the rain, never felt loss of grip. Major part of the comfort was definitely coz of the complete rain gear I was using.

Im using ProSpec windshield extension which protected me from wind quiet well.
Here are some pics from the ride-

[BrainyLad]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

The biggest bummer is the lack of a 'Center Stand'!!! Not only does it provide peace of mind when your bike is parked in the society parking lot and you have someone plonk their dearies on the seat, as against when it is resting just on the side stand!!

Hi GreaseMonkey,
I am looking for my first SBK and currently my fixation is on either Speed Twin 900 or Bonneville T100. The difference in price is almost 1.5L between the two.
My budget would fit in speed twin; however, the GC is what i am worried about since i live in Chennai and my wife would be on Pillion at least 30% of the time. I cannot ask her to get down when i hit a typical "Custom" speed breaker in the roads.
How does the bike perform in those conditions and having a Center stand is one of my wishes as well. But considering the already low GC, having center stand. Will it not lower the GC even further - How bad is it on potholes or Speed breakers?

Originally Posted by Reaper666

Hey RRR,

When you say off-roading, what kind of terrain are you referring to? Was it just mild country roads sort of setup or like a proper trail? The reason I ask is because I had a really tough time with the Bonnie due to clearance. Especially road humps, let alone off road. I've already had 3 instances of the bike bottoming out (twice on unmarked speed humps and once on a jagged rock that was concealed in a pothole. I ended up with an oil leak all 3 times. .

Hi Reaper666,
I was under the impression that T100 has a slightly higher GC than Street twin. Also, for some strange reason they do not have the GC mentioned on the website.
How do you manage it now? Also, currently the delta between T100 and Street twin (Now, speed twin 900) is almost 1.5L. Is it worth the delta? I liked the seating position (at least based on the test drive they gave - They gave me a T120)
Surprise there is that the difference between Speed Twin 1200 and T120 is just 50k.

Need help on this please? Since my wife would not prefer to get down every time i see a non-standard speed breaker considering she said OK to 10.5L budget for Speed twin 900.

[GreaseMonkey]

Originally Posted by BrainyLad

Hi GreaseMonkey,
I am looking for my first SBK and currently my fixation is on either Speed Twin 900 or Bonneville T100. The difference in price is almost 1.5L between the two.
My budget would fit in speed twin; however, the GC is what i am worried about since i live in Chennai and my wife would be on Pillion at least 30% of the time. I cannot ask her to get down when i hit a typical "Custom" speed breaker in the roads.
How does the bike perform in those conditions and having a Center stand is one of my wishes as well. But considering the already low GC, having center stand. Will it not lower the GC even further - How bad is it on potholes or Speed breakers?

Hi BrainyLad,
Welcome to the quintessential zone of having to decide the first SBK! Lets tackle the GC issue first. I too travel with my wife as pillion for at least 50% of the time. Together tipping the scales at around 155 - 165 kgs, on initial trips bottoming out or getting "Shockked" was so frequent that it reached a point of irritation for me. Sudden potholes or those fabled creative speed breakers as they are known became almost like minefields. GC is not the strongest aspect of the Bonnies honestly, however as we get to understand the machines better and the riding dynamics we tend to find the solutions. Both bikes (and almost all current bikes) offer you adjustable rear shocks. Adjusting the travel to set the 'Pre load' will help you set up the bike nicely to your personal requirement and you suddenly feel the bike change its behaviour. Once I got my bike shocks set for the preload (2 notches up from the softest setting) the scrapping or shockked events dropped by almost 90%. Also you get the hang of braking (braking action released just before the speed breaker) which helps the front suspension rise back from the braking load as the bike goes over the speed breaker. To summarise adjusting the preload will help you limit the travel of the shocks and you should be able to put the "Shockked" worry behind you. Just to clarify i had the centre stand fitted right at time of taking delivery and the problem is no longer there. Hope this helps. Personally with the right pre load setting I also observed a marked improvement in the handling of the bike. I suggest you take a test ride without pre load & with pre load setting changed for you to decide.

If I may, my 2 cents on the decision between ST & T100 are as follows:
The engines (CC, Power & Torque) are the same as per my understanding. It will come down to the styling that you prefer with the T100 being the purist choice with its spoked wheels & straight silencers offering the true "Classic" look. ST with the die cast wheels and slightly upswept silencers is like a "modern classic". Personally I think the T100 offers a better choice in colours and if Triumph is offering the 'Goldline' edition you may want to explore it (though I understand it will not be 'limited' as the ST Goldline was to 1k pieces globally) My heart was set on the 'ST Goldline' primarily for the colour combo and the brushed silver knee contact area on the tank and the pinstriping of course!! Hope you will find your heart strings pulled by either of those Bonnies Feel free to ping should you need any other inputs

[BrainyLad]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

Personally with the right pre load setting I also observed a marked improvement in the handling of the bike. I suggest you take a test ride without pre load & with pre load setting changed for you to decide.

Thanks, GreaseMonkey, this boosts confidence, and I will look into this. I am 5.2 height so that's one more reason i am looking at Triumph classics. When you say the handling in the bike did it impact the way it handles during turn etc. I will also be using this bike for touring (max 400 kms/day) on highways where i would prefer 100-120 as cruising speed. The other day i took a test drive on T120 since they did not have the Street twin and i just fell in love with it.

Coming to the maintenance and costs, i just calculated it so that i am prepared for the same since on the internet i see two types of buyers. One who sells it off after 2-3 years and moves to a lower version since the reality of the maintenance of SBK sinks in. The second category is the upgrade types who go on with the upgrade.
So, i took the first category because my plan is to retain the bike for at least 8 years.
Does the cost below reflect the reality of the SBK maintenance? Maybe i have overdone it ? I just want to be prepared though. Not Triumph specific but what i researched and came up with.

[BrainyLad]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

Hope you will find your heart strings pulled by either of those Bonnies Feel free to ping should you need any other inputs

Thank you GreaseMonkey. Yes, my heart goes out for T100, but head says Street twin. Actually, my heart will pop out if i say T120, that was a surreal experience and i fell in love with the bike the moment i turned on the ignition and felt the rumble. The only hit there is the cost. 13.7L + 1L atleast for the accessories comes to almost 15L. Whereas for the speed twin it would be 11.5L

One q, Does the T100 have a better GC than Street twin by few mm's?

[GreaseMonkey]

Originally Posted by BrainyLad

Coming to the maintenance and costs, i just calculated it so that i am prepared for the same since on the internet i see two types of buyers. One who sells it off after 2-3 years and moves to a lower version since the reality of the maintenance of SBK sinks in. The second category is the upgrade types who go on with the upgrade.
So, i took the first category because my plan is to retain the bike for at least 8 years.
Does the cost below reflect the reality of the SBK maintenance? Maybe i have overdone it ? I just want to be prepared though. Not Triumph specific but what i researched and came up with.

Attachment 2367559

Here are the costs that you should consider if you planning to keep the bike for 3 years or more !! Firstly evaluate extended warranty (it helps especially if you plan to ride 10k kms or more or otherwise too for any faulty components). Secondly please subscribe to Road Side Assistance (RSA), trust me you don't want untrained mechanics to handle your bike when you face an issue on the highway or anywhere away from a Service Centre. Thirdly invest in some good riding gear especially shoes. Touring shoes are not practical in the city & city shoes not advisable on highway!! So the first year costs suddenly start spiralling up if you dont have the right gear. Insurance is around 30K per year. Accessories are a honey trap (everyone needs to manage it) I try and hold back every time I am tempted by simply asking myself "Will this enhance my riding experience" or is this just a vanity item that helps us feel good!!! Reminds of the famous lines ... Bulati hai... par jaane ka nahi

[GreaseMonkey]

I dont think any noticeable difference in the GC of both the models

[BrainyLad]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

Here are the costs that you should consider if you planning to keep the bike for 3 years or more !! Firstly evaluate extended warranty (it helps especially if you plan to ride 10k kms or more or otherwise too for any faulty components). Secondly please subscribe to Road Side Assistance (RSA), trust me you don't want untrained mechanics to handle your bike when you face an issue on the highway or anywhere away from a Service Centre. Thirdly invest in some good riding gear especially shoes. Touring shoes are not practical in the city & city shoes not advisable on highway!! So the first year costs suddenly start spiralling up if you dont have the right gear. Insurance is around 30K per year. Accessories are a honey trap (everyone needs to manage it) I try and hold back every time I am tempted by simply asking myself "Will this enhance my riding experience" or is this just a vanity item that helps us feel good!!! Reminds of the famous lines ... Bulati hai... par jaane ka nahi

Yes and yes on extended and RSA. I liked the need and have to's thought process in your one of your threads. This thread made me ponder and revisit my points. Thanks to you and other BHP-ians..

On the Riding gears currently I have:
- Rynox Tornado pro-4 Jacket
- Solace riding jeans (Planning to get actual riding pants next month)
- shoes - Forma half boot
- Helmet - MT thunder
- compression socks
- gloves yes (with knuckle and palm protection) but planning to get full gauntlet in another two months.
- Rynox Optimus Tank bag
- GoPro 10 with chest/chin and handle mounts depending on my mood.

Was planning to upgrade as and when I save. But, is my maintenance cost I had listed realistic to a level?

Had made myself comfortable with these gears on rides that I go currently on my beloved RE TB AVL KS 2005 model. Max travelled is 350km and wanted to try a longer one but due to bad mechanics, my RE is sick now and restricted to breakfast rides once in two weeks (130<-->130 kms).

[BrainyLad]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

I dont think any noticeable difference in the GC of both the models

Do you know if T100/T120 have tubeless tyres? Just asking since if it gets punctured on the way is it a hard stop looking out for the RSA. I believe this is one less worry with street twin?

[no_fear]

Originally Posted by BrainyLad

Does the cost below reflect the reality of the SBK maintenance? Maybe i have overdone it ? I just want to be prepared though. Not Triumph specific but what i researched and came up with.

Where did you get the Brake pad price of INR 16k? That is exorbitant for brake pads. Even if you install Brembo race spec sintered for the front and rear, you won't cross 15k.

A very good aftermarket option is Brenta. They are the OEM maker of all brake pads and have very reasonable pricing - think EBC but lower.

The rest of your costs are in line, except for tires - might have to spend more on that given the current situation in India.

Accessories - don't include it in your costs. It is more of a personal choice, hobby item. I accessorize my bikes as I like them but they are not a part of my purchase investment process.

Spend more on the helmet. While MT is good, there are much better options out there. That is one riding gear you should spend your money on. The rest you can skimp.

If T100 is running Metzeler tires then they are tubeless. Carry a road repair puncture plug kit and an tire inflator (Xiaomi makes one) for emergency.