[quadra]

So one of the wheel nuts on my spark decided to go round and its aint coming out any-which-way. Those power spanners at the tyre shop are slipping as well. Manual spanners are not helping either

The workshop suggested tinkering - which i found out later is a cruel practice of using a blowtorch to remove the nut. This should solve the original issue however the alloy wheel paint near that area would need a repainting. Then comes the repainting of a single alloy and the headache of color matching it with the rest of the alloys (just thought - i can use that alloy with a spare wheel). The cost of tinkering is around 600 to 800 excluding alloy painting.

Any other options here?

PS: Will post a pic soon.

[DevilsCry]

Use a special anti-clockwise drill bit.

Basically they would drill a hole of a smaller dia into the screw that was stuck in the head. They would then insert an anticlockwise screw into the hole and turn it. This would cause the sheared screw to unscrew and pop out.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...g-my-figo.html

[Blow Horn Ok]

Originally Posted by DevilsCry

Use a special anti-clockwise drill bit.

That technique was used to unscrew a bolt whose head broke. How could a wheel nut be drilled? Only the Wheel Studs could be drilled and taped anticlockwise. But it would useless, since the Rounded off Nut won't budge from its place.



I believe, if a drill of diameter which is same as the wheel stud is done on the center of the stud (jammed nut one), the nut can be removed safely. This drilling would destroy the stud safely without any harm to the alloy or hub and the nut could be easily removed thereafter. Although a new stud would have to be installed.



Please note that I have used the Images just for reference and the Images are result of google image search.

[DieselDon]

Originally Posted by quadra

Any other options here?
PS: Will post a pic soon.

Need the pic to validate.

How much access do you have ?
Is it a socket spanner type (nut is inside a cavity) ?

(Use with caution)
- Use a monkey wrench (after filing/chipping the nut for grip.)
- Get a bigger nut whose insides are a tight fit for the existing nut's outsides. Hammer the bigger nut on to the existing nut.
- Possibly weld(sufficiently) another nut onto the existing nut (This was one of the ways I resorted to some time ago)

Cheers, D

[AbhiJ]

My 2 Cents.

1. Get WD 40. Bathe the offending nut in it.
2. Get some M Seal. Apply on inner walls of the socket spanner. Now push the socket over the nut. The M seal should fill the space between the nut and socket. Let the M Seal Set.
Once the M Seal dries, try prying open the nut gently.

50 % chance the above method will work. This has worked for me before... not on a car but other machinery.

[SS-Traveller]

AbhiJ's solution is the one to try, or try this: Fill up the spanner with wet sand, seat it (gently hammer it in) completely on the wheel nut, then turn gently.

Oh, and avoid that blowtorch unless you are planning to replace your alloys.

[mayankjha1806]

This was on a Jeep, where the NUT is outside the wheel, unlike a Car Alloy where its inside. The nut was rusted and had rounded off.

The guy used file (The rough metal strip) to first remove of rust and make some sharp edges so as the spanner will fit (Although a smaller one then normal sized spanner). After multiple tries of filing, and trying it loosed enough to use another plier like tool to unscrew.

[vina]

Originally Posted by quadra

So one of the wheel nuts on my spark decided to go round and its aint coming out any-which-way. Those power spanners at the tyre shop are slipping as well. Manual spanners are not helping either

The workshop suggested tinkering - which i found out later is a cruel practice of using a blowtorch to remove the nut. This should solve the original issue however the alloy wheel paint near that area would need a repainting. Then comes the repainting of a single alloy and the headache of color matching it with the rest of the alloys (just thought - i can use that alloy with a spare wheel). The cost of tinkering is around 600 to 800 excluding alloy painting.

Any other options here?

PS: Will post a pic soon.

Why is it stuck? Has it corroded? Have you tried overnight soak in lubricant (using some wet-in-oil cotton gauge) - that can help losen the nut on the bolt.

if you are willing to risk a blowtorch, why don't just grind two opp0site sides of it to the extent that the grinder reaches the bolt? that would effectively cut the nut without damaging the alloys for good.


The drill-bit method wouldnt work here, but something similar might - there are tools used to cut the thread on screws. You can use that tool (anti-clockwise) of sufficient diameter, cut the thread on top of the nut (such that the nut looks like a screw) and then put a larger anti-clockwise nut on top of your nut. Then when you tighten the anti-clockwise nut, that would bring out the nut that is stuck.

[LP640]

Like AbhiJ said, try WD40. You get a small spray can for about 100 Rs. Spray it sufficiently and leave overnight.
In the morning, hammer the nut on the head, this will loosen its corroded and fused threads. Also hammer to gain some edges back. Then try some packing between wrench and nut, like already suggested sand, and try to unscrew.

[220kmph]

Hi quadra, I had a similar problem with my Alto. In my case, the nut had been mounted cross-threaded by an in-experienced person during the last puncture. So, in the next puncture, the wheel spanner rounded off the nut on application of extra force and subsequently slipped. The tyre repair guy advised me to go to workshop to address the issue. So, with a punctured tyre, I gingerly drove for about a km to the nearest workshop. He neatly sliced off the afflicted stud (I didn't see how he did it) and welded a new stud. Of course, I did not have alloys.

I would recommend that even if it involves a bit of hot work, go for it. In case the paint work is getting damaged, just paint the singular alloy. No need to re-paint all of them. Nobody would notice the difference.

All the best.

[abhijitl]

With alloys there is no other way but to cut the stud & nut. Since the nut is inside & not protruding out like in a normal rim. In this process the rim always gets damaged & needs painting.

[Sankar]

If you could answer these two questions it would help.

1) Has the wheel stud come loose from the hub and is it rotating with the nut?
or
2) Is the thread stripped and nut going round and round over the stud which is still seated tightly in the hub?

Please post a pic of the offending nut if possible, helps to know how much space you've got there between the nut and the alloy and what kind of a nut it is.

I faced a similar situation when one lug nut was cross threaded by a careless mech which i came to know of only when i decided to get the lug nuts changed. But we were able to remove the cross threaded nut with the help of pneumatic impact wrench.

[Blow Horn Ok]

Originally Posted by 220kmph

He neatly sliced off the afflicted stud (I didn't see how he did it) and welded a new stud..

In no way a mechanic should weld a stud. The stud should be replaced with a new one by opening the hub. It is a very simple job. Welded stud would be a weak link and its not necessary that it is welded with precision matching the center. If you are driving on a welded stud, replace it with a new one asap.

[quadra]

Thanks for all your replies. I tried twice to reply to each one of you however my laptop froze on me.

Feels good to see that yes there are some workarounds / jugaad to fix this issue. Will definitely try them out and share the progress here.

Will post the pics asap.

Thanks

[rajeev k]

If the above are not successful try the butcher's method. Though very rude may work. Use the chisel on the nut faces with mild hammering. The flared edges of the cut would help the spanner to grip.

If not successful with the chisel try hammering in the anticlockwise direction. The nut will get damaged in both the cases but once removed replace with a new one.