[TheCamShaft]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Anyway, 53,000 kms on stock clutch plate in an AMT is very good life, considering the fact that the AMT slips the clutch more than a manual transmission.

Considering clutch slips can potentially happen in AMTs, what might be a reasonable consideration in terms of Kms/Years by when clutch plates must be replaced. Let's say even if a driver is doing too well in operating AMTs in ensuring the gear changes are smooth enough.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by TheCamShaft

Considering clutch slips can potentially happen in AMTs, what might be a reasonable consideration in terms of Kms/Years by when clutch plates must be replaced. Let's say even if a driver is doing too well in operating AMTs in ensuring the gear changes are smooth enough.

Its difficult to predict since the clutch life varies from car to car and depends on the driving habits, driving conditions as well. But assuming that a manual transmission is driven properly, the corresponding AMT variant of the same car will last around 60%-70% of the MT variant.

[mohan41]

Originally Posted by jetsetgo08

As expected, there is judder esp. in the 1-2 gears, as the AMT is lazy to downshift from 2 to 1, resulting in a little bit of clutch riding, but it is mostly noticed when driving in traffic. No judder is experienced on empty stretches.

Originally Posted by Sumer

Been 2 years of comfortable ownership with my Brezza VDi AMT. One practice which I always follow is to shift manually into 1st when I slow down to 10kph or less. In D mode, it keeps riding the clutch and refuses to shift to 1st even when the speeds are very low and it is clearly apparent that it rides the clutch. I feel the system is stress free at the cost a little more fuel via manually downshifting.

I bought a new S-presso AMT and been driving it for last 4 days in Bangalore city traffic. AMT appears to be eager to downshift 1st gear. When slowing down, if speed drops to below 10kmph, it downshifts to 1st gear. As I am also used to driving a manual Ertiga I felt that in some of these cases AMT could have easily managed in 2nd gear, like when the road is plain or slightly downhill. Even the upshift to 3rd gear from 2nd happens only after crossing 28-30kmph.

After reading the above posts, I am wondering whether this behavior is to avoid clutch slipping. The downside is more jerky experience as there is an unexpected shift to 1st gear and then back to 2nd gear once the speed increases back to double digits.

[Sumer]

Originally Posted by mohan41

I bought a new S-presso and been driving it for last 4 days in Bangalore city traffic. AMT appears to be eager to downshift 1st gear. When slowing down, if speed drops to below 10kmph, it downshifts to 1st gear. As I am also used to driving a manual Ertiga I felt that in some of these cases AMT could have easily managed in 2nd gear, like when the road is plain or slightly downhill. Even the upshift to 3rd gear from 2nd happens only after crossing 28-30kmph.

After reading the above posts, I am wondering whether this behavior is to avoid clutch slipping. The downside is more jerky experience as there is an unexpected shift to 1st gear and then back to 2nd gear once the speed increases back to double digits.

Maruti must have made some changes to the software to do that. Good move I'd personally say. As for me, 4+ years and 33000 kms of Delhi traffic on the factory clutch, I'm happy.

[BusCar]

Hello Kushagra452,
The clutch plate does seems to have worn out. Replacing clutch+clutch bearing would have been ok. Flywheel seems in ok condition and could have kept the same.
Good to know that now Gearshifts are smooth.

[mohan41]

I have two questions:

1) Is it ok to move the transmission between D mode and M mode while the car is running?
2) Is it ok to move the transmission from D to N while the car is slowing down when nearing a red light.

[ALTIMAed]

Originally Posted by mohan41

I have two questions:

1) Is it ok to move the transmission between D mode and M mode while the car is running?
2) Is it ok to move the transmission from D to N while the car is slowing down when nearing a red light.

Ans 1 - No problem at all
Ans 2 - NEVER to be done

I purchased my Maruti Dzire AGS ZDI in Aug 2016 at Kolkata. It was the first AGS to be registered at the Salt Lake RTO. Having a budget constraint those days and add to the fact, I had just moved to India after using automatic transmissions (torque convertor and CVT), for me it had to be an automatic, but for me the AMT was a new concept. Till date my car has done 82,000 kms, absolutely trouble free. The below precautions I have undertaken from Day 1 (the same was applicable to all automatics I have used)
1 - Never change to N when the vehicle is rolling
2 - Always engage D or N at absolutely standstill position
3 - Never load the gearbox (when parking the car, with the foot brake depressed, shift to N, apply the hand brake and then release the foot brake, the load shifts to the wheels where the hand brake engages, only then press the foot brake again and change from N to P). In an AMT, follow the same, shift to M mode after the weight shift
4 - When stopping at stationary traffic / red traffic lights - shift to neutral and keep the foot brake depressed. This reduces the wear and tear on the clutch plate considerably. The same I have taught my driver. Hope this helps.

[nitinmurali]

Hi,
I have a 2020 Ignis AMT. Clutch was changed recently at 63,000 Kilometres. After that the crawl function is very weak. I have to make an accelerator input after every stop.The service advisor told me it's normal after changing clutch and the crawl function will come back to its original level after a few hundred kilometres. Please advice

[jetsetgo08]

Originally Posted by nitinmurali

Hi,
I have a 2020 Ignis AMT. Clutch was changed recently at 63,000 Kilometres. After that the crawl function is very weak. I have to make an accelerator input after every stop.The service advisor told me it's normal after changing clutch and the crawl function will come back to its original level after a few hundred kilometres. Please advice

That's a pretty good life you have extracted from the clutch.

It is common for the AMT to not crawl when the engine is cold and during the first ride after days of resting. Do you observe the issue even after driving for a few KM's?

[nitinmurali]

Originally Posted by jetsetgo08

That's a pretty good life you have extracted from the clutch.

It is common for the AMT to not crawl when the engine is cold and during the first ride after days of resting. Do you observe the issue even after driving for a few KM's?

I have driven the car for more than 200 kilometres. Still the crawl function is not as before.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by nitinmurali

Hi,
I have a 2020 Ignis AMT. Clutch was changed recently at 63,000 Kilometres. After that the crawl function is very weak. I have to make an accelerator input after every stop.The service advisor told me it's normal after changing clutch and the crawl function will come back to its original level after a few hundred kilometres. Please advice

It's just a result of the AMT calibration reset that's done during the replacement of the clutch. The AMT adapts to the wear and tear of the clutch by learning the bite point of the clutch continuously and this helps in offering the creep function in the best possible manner. Every time the brake is released, the clutch actuator immediately brings the clutch to the bite position and then gradually releases it further. This action is over ridden when the driver presses the accelerator and the clutch release is done without keeping the bite point in consideration. So, time to head to an open area or an empty road and check this - Does the car actually creep without accelerator input? If it doesn't creep at all, then the AMT re calibration process was not successfully done via the tool.

If it's really weak creep as you say, the car should move after letting go of the brake and with ZERO throttle input. If this is happening, the issue is only with bite point learning. All you have to do is to is let go of the brake, let the car creep and repeat it like a dozen times and never touch the accelerator. This will help the car learn the bite point and improve creep behavior. When you drive in traffic, due to the weak creep if you press the accelerator to get going, the AMT will never get a chance to learn the bite point.

If you want even aggressive creep, repeat the above activity in a place with a very slight incline both in D and R. You will notice that in the initial few tries, the AMT will release clutch slowly, which might even result in roll back. But as long as the roll back isn't too much, it will overcome it and get better over time.

If you are not able to do all this, go to a nearby FNG and tell them to loosen the clutch fork - AMT linkage nut by 4-5 turns and you will end up in pretty aggressive creep by brute force method

[nitinmurali]

Originally Posted by audioholic

It's just a result of the AMT calibration reset that's done during the replacement of the clutch. The AMT adapts to the wear and tear of the clutch by learning the bite point of the clutch continuously and this helps in offering the creep function in the best possible manner. Every time the brake is released, the clutch actuator immediately brings the clutch to the bite position and then gradually releases it further. This action is over ridden when the driver presses the accelerator and the clutch release is done without keeping the bite point in consideration. So, time to head to an open area or an empty road and check this - Does the car actually creep without accelerator input? If it doesn't creep at all, then the AMT re calibration process was not successfully done via the tool.

If it's really weak creep as you say, the car should move after letting go of the brake and with ZERO throttle input. If this is happening, the issue is only with bite point learning. All you have to do is to is let go of the brake, let the car creep and repeat it like a dozen times and never touch the accelerator. This will help the car learn the bite point and improve creep behavior. When you drive in traffic, due to the weak creep if you press the accelerator to get going, the AMT will never get a chance to learn the bite point.

If you want even aggressive creep, repeat the above activity in a place with a very slight incline both in D and R. You will notice that in the initial few tries, the AMT will release clutch slowly, which might even result in roll back. But as long as the roll back isn't too much, it will overcome it and get better over time.

If you are not able to do all this, go to a nearby FNG and tell them to loosen the clutch fork - AMT linkage nut by 4-5 turns and you will end up in pretty aggressive creep by brute force method

Thanks for the detailed reply. I have a weak creep at present. I will try the methods suggested.

[nitinmurali]

Originally Posted by audioholic

It's just a result of the AMT calibration reset that's done during the replacement of the clutch. The AMT adapts to the wear and tear of the clutch by learning the bite point of the clutch continuously and this helps in offering the creep function in the best possible manner. Every time the brake is released, the clutch actuator immediately brings the clutch to the bite position and then gradually releases it further. This action is over ridden when the driver presses the accelerator and the clutch release is done without keeping the bite point in consideration. So, time to head to an open area or an empty road and check this - Does the car actually creep without accelerator input? If it doesn't creep at all, then the AMT re calibration process was not successfully done via the tool.

If it's really weak creep as you say, the car should move after letting go of the brake and with ZERO throttle input. If this is happening, the issue is only with bite point learning. All you have to do is to is let go of the brake, let the car creep and repeat it like a dozen times and never touch the accelerator. This will help the car learn the bite point and improve creep behavior. When you drive in traffic, due to the weak creep if you press the accelerator to get going, the AMT will never get a chance to learn the bite point.

If you want even aggressive creep, repeat the above activity in a place with a very slight incline both in D and R. You will notice that in the initial few tries, the AMT will release clutch slowly, which might even result in roll back. But as long as the roll back isn't too much, it will overcome it and get better over time.

If you are not able to do all this, go to a nearby FNG and tell them to loosen the clutch fork - AMT linkage nut by 4-5 turns and you will end up in pretty aggressive creep by brute force method

Update
The creep is back to its normal. I tried putting the car in D in open spaces like you mentioned and it worked. Thanks a lot

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by nitinmurali

Update
The creep is back to its normal. I tried putting the car in D in open spaces like you mentioned and it worked. Thanks a lot

Glad it worked. This can happen even over a period of time if the AMT has not got enough chances to complete a creep manoeuvre before the accelerator is pressed. Have noticed the same behaviour in my DSG car as well. The bite point learning is an important thing to ensure good creeping otherwise which will lead to weaker creep over time.

[arka_007]

Hi - I have a query. I recently bought the Alpha AMT in Feb 2024. We went on a short trip to Ooty and unfortunately while returning, a deer jumped right into the right side of the car. Luckily no casualties, but I had to replace the driver and rear driver doors as they were heavily damaged.

Coming to the point, ever since I got the car back, I started noticing a sound that is coming from the gear shifts, specifically when it's shifting up and down in the first 3 gears. I do not recall if this was prevalent before as well. I took the car to service center, and was told this is operating sound and is common among AMTs. I wanted to understand from the group if this is actually true, and there is a sound which is clear to come from the auto gear shifts, as I do did not hear this in the multiple test drives.