[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

I think the AFR varies with vehicle.

Why?

Actually IMHO, you need to go back to how a diesel works, and revisit the AFR in Diesels thing. You are barking up the wrong tree. Just my humble opinion.

Regards
Sutripta

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

The SA or WM (Works Manager) would not allow to connect OBD unless you face some True(?) problem with the Engine.

I find this remarkable.
Where I come from whenever you even merely think you might have the tinniest of problems you hook it up to a (car/make specific) OBD analyzer! That's what they're for: Don't touch anything, don't start fiddling with any parts. Always, always hook the car up to the OBD first! It takes seconds and it can provide you with a excellent overview what's happening with your engine, transmission, brakes, air-conditioning etc. etc.

Why would the SA or WM not be allowed to connect to OBD? It should be the first check they do before touching anything?

Jeroen

[foby.sebastian]

Has any one tried the below scenario ?

Start the engine remove the Engine oil dip stick slowly (be careful the oil may spill and make you dirty)

Ask some one to rev the engine a bit hard (Ofcourse the should be in neutral), while you remain in a safe distance from the engine and watch

If there is sludge/block developed inside the engine oil will spill out notifying that its an unhealthy engine.

Thats a must do health check before you decide to buy a used diesel car with the so called national engine The Fiat multijet AKA DDIS(Swift diesel),quadrajet(tata)....etc

[manikjeet]

Its a must do before buying any engine be it petrol or diesel. Its called blow back and shouldn't be present.

Also early stage is small amount of smoke coming from the same.

Please do not include VW engines as they have a little blow as default.

[Cooltronics]

Hello All... We have a 1987 model Maruti 800 (SB 308) which has clocked 1 lac km and is sparingly used (just on weekends for 10 km average). The car is in all original condition and serviced regularly at Maruti authorized service centre.
Our service advisor has suggested to overhaul the engine as the oil consumtion has increased, oil comes out of engine, power has dropped and engine is running on adapters ( I do not know what this means .. something in engine is fused and hence adapters).
Any suggestion on what all needs to be checked from my side and what should be done ? Service centre has approximately quoted a price of 30k and with absolute no guarantee of engine performance similar to what it was in its hay days.
Appreicate your suggestions and advice

[mithun]

Originally Posted by Cooltronics

Hello All... We have a 1987 model Maruti 800 (SB 308) which has clocked 1 lac km and is sparingly used (just on weekends for 10 km average).

Take the car to multiple service station and if all of them are having the same opinion, then go for an overhaul.

[gsurya]

Originally Posted by Cooltronics

Hello All... We have a 1987 model Maruti 800 (SB 308) which has clocked 1 lac km and is sparingly used (just on weekends for 10 km average). The car is in all original condition and serviced regularly at Maruti authorized service centre.
Our service advisor has suggested to overhaul the engine as the oil consumtion has increased, oil comes out of engine, power has dropped and engine is running on adapters ( I do not know what this means .. something in engine is fused and hence adapters).
Any suggestion on what all needs to be checked from my side and what should be done ? Service centre has approximately quoted a price of 30k and with absolute no guarantee of engine performance similar to what it was in its hay days.
Appreicate your suggestions and advice

As an option, look for a good 2nd hand engine from a trusted mechanic, you may get it done for half the price.

[caraholic]

Originally Posted by Ford Rocam

Ya you are right air is compressed via spark plug hole, Actually Leak down test should be done after compression test it will narrow down where exactly you are loosing the compression either, Gasket, Piston rings or Intake or Exhaust Valve seats, Air is compressed via spark plug hole using a special measuring device which can measure the percentage of air compressed which is being lost. for detail explanation you can read it here.

Leak Down Test VFAQ

where can i get these tests done.I live in Dwarka,Delhi

[balenoed_]

My Baleno had to go for a complete engine overhaul to fix an issue that popped up all of a sudden. It probably may not be all of a sudden, but the damage was being created for a while and finally it surfaced out.

Car: Maruti Suzuki Baleno 2004 Model
ODO: 1.4 L Kms
Reason: Severe drop in pick up
Cause: Crank shaft key way worn out
Work Done at: Sejal Motors, Bangalore

History:
I have been hearing a slight noise emanating from the engine bay while I was driving around. It wasn’t so loud to catch an attention nor it was very frequent. But there was something amiss. I didn’t pay much heed to it and ignored and drove around and finally a damage was done on the crank shaft.

Present:
At the start of one of a long drive, the noise from the engine became loud and since I didn’t have a choice to cancel the drive, I continued the driving hoping there is nothing as bad could happen. Probably because the car never gave a problem for the past 7 years that I have been driving it, I was over confident about that. There wasn’t any issue with the drive except this noise which was not very frequent but sometimes louder. Towards the end of the trip, the noise became terrible and it sounded like some metal part being grind inside. Managed to complete the trip, and the next day took it to a local mechanic who had a quick check and immediately figured out that the crank shaft pulley bolt is broken and the pulley is wobbling, which could be the noise about. He got a new bolt and fastened.



The pulley back in place and the noise went away. But then I was welcomed with a terrible loss of pick up and while driving on an inclined road, the car was even stalling. After a while, figured out that if I switch off the A/C, it was better and it was not stalling on uphill roads but the pickup was very bad. At some instances there wasn’t any response to the throttle. I had to drive back to Bangalore if I have to do any repair job and managed to drive back without switching on the A/C. (The A/C was not the real cause, but it was just acting as a load to the crippling engine)

Took it to the workshop (Sejal Motors, Bangalore) and Mr.Suresh there, whom I knew well, received the car and started the diagnosis. I left the place and later got a call from him asking me to visit the workshop. Probably it was difficult for him to explain on the phone and I headed. He had removed the timing belt cover to reach out to the crank shaft pulley from where the noise for coming from. Since I had explained him earlier about the history of crank shaft pulley bolt broken, I guess that is the reason he could narrow it down to the same area. He showed me that the crank shaft pulley was damaged and grinded into pieces in the inside, and it was all metal debris lying inside. The notch on the pulley which the crank shaft sensor uses to detect the rotation and speed has broken and there is no way the sensor could be transmitting the correct speed/position information to the ECM. It was only a plain luck that the car was able to run with all these mess inside.




We suspected it could have happened due to the wobbling of the pulley that I mentioned earlier. Though we had fixed it earlier by fastening the crank shaft bolt, the damage was already done before. Not only the pulley was damaged, the pressure created on the key way coupler due to the wobbling of the pulley has worn out the key way on the crank shaft. Due to this wear out, there was a slight slip in the timing belt which must be causing inconsistent timing and effectively dropping the mileage.

Crank shaft Key way – This is a small groove at the end of crank shaft where the pulley is engaged to the crank shaft using a small wedge called as ‘key’. One end of the timing belt is connected to this pulley, meaning, this pulley plays a major role in maintaining the timing of the engine. If the pulley is offset by even few mm, there will be a variation in timing which will result in the changes in combustion strokes and loss of power and ultimately engine cessation if the timing goes too way around.

How a good "key way" should look like:-

(PC: Internet)

How the damaged "key way" in my car is looking like:-


So, this key way was worn out or eaten up quite too much that the timing of the engine was affected.

We discussed on how to go about with this and figured out the only way to resolve is to change the crank shaft as a whole. And that needs a complete engine re-build. I was insisting on a possible repair work on the damaged key way, by using a metal adhesive like loctite etc. But he was not very keen on doing that considering the risk involved. Without having another choice, I had to give a go ahead to remove the engine and replace the shaft. MGP ones were costing a bomb, and hence we went in look for an aftermarket one. He managed to find one at half the price and in good condition. The engine was taken out by the mechanic and the head was separated from the block. Cylinder block was taken to the lathe shop for further work on it such as removing the crank shaft, putting the new one, replacing the bearings, cleaning up the cylinder, replacing the piston rings and so on.




And then the block was brought back to the workshop for assembling and putting back into the car.

The old crank shaft taken out of the engine:-


The Key way of old and new shaft:-


The new shaft placed on the block:-


All assembled back and the engine ready to go into the bay:-




Things are back in place and the car is ready to start:-


Had some initial hiccups when the car was started. There were some jerks and initially suspected whether it could be a leak in the combustion through the head/valves or faulty ECM. But both were diagnosed to be not at fault and then the next suspect was the crank shaft position sensor. Replaced it, and that was the culprit.

Not only the original pick up issue was resolved, but there has been a tremendous improvement in the performance. The engine revs super smoothly and the response is lovely. Awaiting to run in for about 2000kms at least, before pushing it beyond 60kmph.

Parts Replaced:-
Head gasket
Oil pump gasket
Throttle body gasket
Exhaust manifold gasket
Oil case gasket
Water pump gasket
Big end oil seal
Cam shaft oil seal
Crank pulley assembly
Crank shaft (the most expensive of all)
Crank shaft position sensor
Stainer O ring
Key
Main bearing
Connecting bearing
Thrust washer
Bore sleeve
Piston ring
Lathe charges
Sealant

Learnings:-
- Never ignore even a slightest abnormal sound coming out of the engine. Pin point the root cause and fix it up immediately if required.

- Have a close eye on any repairs that you do around the engine. (Here, I have replaced the timing belt a few months back. I vaguely suspect the mechanic would not have tightened the crank shaft pulley bolt with the right torque and that could have caused the bolt to get loose and create all the damage thereafter. That is just a guess, it could be something else as well)

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by nitrous

Engine compression test is enough.

As my indica is down for a major refurbishing, I had asked my mech to check compression. I asked him again recently, and he said he checked, and things were ok. I asked him what the readings were, and he said he didnt have them. When I pushed him further, he said he didnt have the necessary equipment to do a compression test, and they had checked if there was any oil being blown out of the dipstick. They had found that there wasn't any, and in his opinion, that was enough.


Is it?

[deemash]

I own a Ritz VDI 2010 model which has clocked 1.2 L kms till date.
Off late, I see there is lot of white smoke coming out of exhaust as soon as the car is switched ON from cold.
Once the engine gets heated up, the smoke is no more. In cold start, I see the MID shows oil (red symbol) and hand brake signal intermittently.

Last service I reported about the smoke to Maruti Authorized service centre and they said it is OK only.

I dont know whether they are waiting for the engine to damage more and do a overhaul.

Please someone let me know what may the cause for the (blue I guess) + white smoke in cold start.

[sudev]

Extreme cold means lots of steam thrown out before engine and exhaust get hot. If there is no oil consumption (dip stick check) do not worry. 1.2 lac is not worry point

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by balenoed_

My Baleno had to go for a complete engine overhaul to fix an issue that popped up all of a sudden. It probably may not be all of a sudden, but the damage was being created for a while and finally it surfaced out.

How much was the cost of the entire job excluding the expensive crankshaft? Our Zen needs a overhaul and hence want to know the cost of such a overhaul

[balenoed_]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

How much was the cost of the entire job excluding the expensive crankshaft? Our Zen needs a overhaul and hence want to know the cost of such a overhaul

Just the engine overhaul costed 34K.

That is apart from some of the other parts replacement (crank shaft) specific to the issue I had. Otherwise, if it is just Engine overhaul, it is the above amount.

And depends on what is the purpose of the engine overhaul that you are planning to do. Also, if done at a show room, it will be significantly high. I got it done at my known mechanic and he gave a best deal as much as possible.

Let me know if you have any specific questions.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

How much was the cost of the entire job excluding the expensive crankshaft? Our Zen needs a overhaul and hence want to know the cost of such a overhaul

Why not go the half engine way?? IIRC it's price was around 32k for the Zen and even though it will be more expensive than overhauling the conventional way, I believe it will be worth it as half engines are assembled as per factory specs.