Originally Posted by Fortuner71 (Post 1375688)

hi all,

Some problem areas from my OHC , its run 53000 kms.

1) Gear shift is hard
2) Jerking on clutch release at low speeds ( 1st , 2nd Gear ).

I assume this to be due to the clutch => Need expert advice here , am I right ? please:

Questions :

1) Cost of clutch replacement ?


Thanks for the help.

Originally Posted by Sunilb (Post 1375821)

My OHC also has the same problem which I too thought to be the clutch issue but its working fine.
Then I read in one of the threads quoting it to be faulty ECU for all OHCs upto 2003. Need someone to revalidate this.

Originally Posted by ssjr0498 (Post 1376107)

1: Get the gear oil changed

2. Your clutch is busted, get the clutch, pressure plate and the release bearing changed.

The cost of the clutch is directly dependent on which clutch you use (stock or staged). I think replacing it in the company will set you back by some 10-16k. However, you can get Exedy (stock replacement), the same brand that comes as OEM on honda for abt 3k-4k from outside.

Locate a good workshop and get it changed.




You're somewhat right,that error was with cars pre September 2002. Post that Honda had rectified that issue.

The jerking that was mentioned is no way related to having hard gear shifts.

I have a pre sep 2002 vtec and I have that jerking issue, but I can shift my gear with my little finger :D.

Cheers
Shrey

Originally Posted by Tejas@perioimpl (Post 1376084)

I have a 2001 ohc. No such issue happened. How can this be related to the ecu? I don't think there is any correlation.

Originally Posted by pranavt (Post 1376920)

It's probably isolated to the VTEC's ECU. Present in mine too since my car's a 2000 model, but should be gone after I upgrade and remap the ECU. You have to slip and play with the clutch a lot because of this problem or the car jerks violently at low-rpms.

Originally Posted by Sunilb (Post 1376910)

They too had faced similar problems in their OHCs. Need to know from them how they got rid of it or its still there.

Originally Posted by pranavt (Post 1377437)

Sunil, the stock ECU cannot be remapped AFAIK since it's only available in South Asian markets like India, Pakistan, Thailand, etc. Hence me buying a JDM ECU and remapping that. The cost should be around 12k for a P28/P30 socketed ECU and another 10k or so for the ROM burner. But once I have the burner, you can just get a socketed ECU and I can burn the map on a chip for you.

Let's see how it goes, was just recommended against a remap since I don't know **** about remapping. But I don't mind putting months of reading time and energy into this and learn it from scratch, so it should be fun tuning an ECU with a wideband sensor and helpful folks. And since I'll keep my stock ECU with me, I will not be stuck with a useless car until the map is tuned properly.

Originally Posted by doomsday (Post 1379697)

Don't think all this is needed unless you are planning to go extreme NA or with forced induction. Some increased base timing, a little more fuel pressure should do the trick to optimise your current setup (ffe/cai). ROM burner is a dead investment. If you are so serious about getting a chipped ECU, get a standalone which offers much more functionality at any level and is infinitely compatible with any level of mods you wish to do even in near future.

Its a good thing wanting to learn, but your current approach will have you frustrated in no time. If you REALLY want to learn, get a standalone and the supplied software and you're ready to tune. The stock ECU will always be there as a fail-safe and will be capable of running your car even if it is turbocharged (staying off-boost obviously) in case something gets screwed up.

Originally Posted by pranavt (Post 1379943)

I do not have the budget for a standalone right now. As it stands, I can have a chipped ECU for a lot less than half the amount of a standalone.

And from the little amount of stuff I've read and apps I've checked out, the OEM ECUs (P28/P30) can handle FI with additional boost maps (Please correct me if I'm misinformed) and a lot more.

Originally Posted by pranavt (Post 1379943)

I do know that it will never give me the flexibility of a standalone, but if I do get frustrated, I can always get a used Hondata in the future. It is out of my budget to buy a stand-alone, then pay someone to tune the car for me after every modification. I do not know about the policies of Indian/Asian standalone ECU tuners/installers, but if I don't get the tuning software for myself, it can start getting prohibitively expensive very soon.

Originally Posted by doomsday (Post 1380327)

A used, working P28/30 will cost should normally cost in the region of US$120 and this means you'll be converting your current OBD2B setup to a OBD1- meaning you'll need a OBDII to OBD1 conversion harness which will cost you ~US$30.

A ROM emulator will cost you in the region of US$250. Which brings the grand total to about US$400+.

Next, you plan to use Crome, Neptune or Uberdata. These systems are the best thing that has happened lately in the Honda scene, allowing bang-for-the-buck (actually no bucks since they're free) tuning solutions. If you are adding boost (but you mentioned you aren't), an aftermarket MAP sensor will be needed. I agree, not many things can go wrong with a moderate NA setup, a little bit of common sense should be able to keep your motor out of harm's way.

Next thing you need will be a Wideband O2 sensor+readout. The AEM UEGO is one of the best VFM systems, will cost ~US$200 even though most tuners only trust top of the line stuff from likes of Innovate. For non-critical DIY stuff though, the UEGO should suffice. Not sure if you'll be investing in this, but if you are- this is the way to go.

So now we're at around ~US$600 even before you can start tuning. And the cost of burning the ROM hasn't been included yet. Translates to ~INR 30k assuming all this is being hand carried and no duties are being paid.



I don't know how much it'll cost to get a used Hondata and how easy its gonna be but I'm sure it won't come for dirt-cheap especially for a d-series motor since its not as common an application as for like say B16s.

On the face of it, tuning seems really simple- its not until you sit with that fuelling/ignition map in front of you that the complexity of it hits you. In other words, its an art- just like any other creative activity. Try playing around with a dummy map and talk to ECU tuners and you can start picking up the basics. After that, try getting some hands on experience on a mildly modded car with a aftermarket ECU.

You should be able to get the software for yourself if you're paying for the ECU install and persist for it. The reason the software isn't handed out freely is the fact that any joe-average can start fooling around with the maps and blow his motor in the process, and later blame the EMS for the same.

P.S. Guess we're going slightly OT with this discussion.

Originally Posted by doomsday

P.S. Guess we're going slightly OT with this discussion.