[Livnletcarsliv]

Originally Posted by CannedShroud

Please do share your 2 cents on this, and if someone has done it before on this platform.. (Tiago JTP/Altroz iTurbo/Nexon etc). Please share your journey as well.

You can do anything and everything if you have these - Money, Time, Energy, and most important if this is a project car. If not, nothing more. Period.

Tata was never good with petrol engines irrespective of the model and year. Even the Tiago JTP was not 100% Tata developed. It was developed in collaboration with Jeyam Automotive, Coimbatore. So there is a serious limitation in terms of RELIABILITY to extract more from the stock.

At the same time, Altroz diesel is a different beast altogether, especially when it comes to mod potential. Of course, with limitations again.

Btw, I would say those 180/200 hp 1.0/1.2 TSI polos may not be daily drivers. One of my friend Bhpian has a 300hp 1.6S fiesta and its not a daily driver. plus it needs special maintenance, highest 99RON fuel and so on..

Altroz petrol (not the racer) is one of the most boring cars to drive. And Altroz diesel is one of the best drivers car. I would not even do a stage 2 with Altroz petrol, let alone more mods.

[Phantom 510]

I am no expert but reliability and after market mods don't go hand in hand. It's better the car remains stock and be driven as it is IMO.

[CannedShroud]

Originally Posted by SavoyWalrus

I think stage 2 is the max that I would ideally go for in the Altroz. I just don't trust the gearbox, and reliability is paramount for me. Like @pedrolourenco said, you can have fun even if it's sub 150 bhp. Maybe try better springs and brakes to get better entry and exit speed. Cornering is as much, if not, more fun than outright acceleration

Yes, this sounds like the right path to follow - I will be researching about and hopefully will get through with the mods by May-June 25. I had reached out to some tuning houses and they do support other stuff like slotted rotors, braided brake lines. and even some head work on the block. Will keep the thread posted.

Originally Posted by pedrolourenco

Tata does not release this data but someone had found out the exact figure through some sources. I forgot the figure he told me. Will check again.

Thanks a lot

Originally Posted by Livnletcarsliv

You can do anything and everything if you have these - Money, Time, Energy, and most important if this is a project car. If not, nothing more. Period.

Tata was never good with petrol engines irrespective of the model and year. Even the Tiago JTP was not 100% Tata developed. It was developed in collaboration with Jeyam Automotive, Coimbatore. So there is a serious limitation in terms of RELIABILITY to extract more from the stock.

Yes, I am aware of the Jayem ties and how the 3 pot turbo mpi engine made it to the tata house, But the rationale behind the potential gain for power was that the nexon does better figures stock - and those are proven to be pretty reliable from a engine perspective.

Originally Posted by Livnletcarsliv

At the same time, Altroz diesel is a different beast altogether, especially when it comes to mod potential. Of course, with limitations again.

Altroz petrol (not the racer) is one of the most boring cars to drive. And Altroz diesel is one of the best drivers car. I would not even do a stage 2 with Altroz petrol, let alone more mods.

The thread is regarding the iTurbo, not the NA Altroz - you are right, the NA block is anemic and should never have been an option for a car in this segment. The iTurbo is the same engine as the Racer (with a different ECU). Otherwise mechanically same to till the flywheel.

This block is easily much more fun than even the diesel, with the power being very linear and enjoyably after a stage 1 map. The lag in the diesel is just abysmal -- not to mention the 2 second delay in the throttle response really sickens me to the gut every time i drive one.

Originally Posted by Livnletcarsliv

Btw, I would say those 180/200 hp 1.0/1.2 TSI polos may not be daily drivers. One of my friend Bhpian has a 300hp 1.6S fiesta and its not a daily driver. plus it needs special maintenance, highest 99RON fuel and so on..

You are right, I probably am getting a little carried away with the numbers. The chassis dyamics, steering and suspension being so good, I really feel that she has a lot more to give.

For the part of always having to run a higher fuel grade, I am fine with that - My iTurbo is already on a 95 RON ONLY map and it really is not a hassle at all!


Will keep the thread posted with further updated

[Chaman K]

Hi there!! It was a nice read going through your posts. We have a diesel altroz tuned to stage 1 and were wondering for a brake and tyre upgrade. Tyres are stock 185/60 R16s right now and was thinking about upgrading to Vredestein Ultrac Vorti - i 205/55 R16s since they feel very good on my polo tsi now but you've mentioned wheel rubbing in the rear arch which is sad. Have to hunt for quality 195/55 offerings then for when the car needs new tyres...
About the brakes - brakes are fine but an upgrade would definitely be appreciated. Are there any performance pads and/or rotors available??

[CannedShroud]

Originally Posted by Chaman K

Hi there!! It was a nice read going through your posts. We have a diesel altroz tuned to stage 1 and were wondering for a brake and tyre upgrade. Tyres are stock 185/60 R16s right now and was thinking about upgrading to Vredestein Ultrac Vorti - i 205/55 R16s since they feel very good on my polo tsi now but you've mentioned wheel rubbing in the rear arch which is sad. Have to hunt for quality 195/55 offerings then for when the car needs new tyres...
About the brakes - brakes are fine but an upgrade would definitely be appreciated. Are there any performance pads and/or rotors available??

Thank you for your kind words. In practice, the wheelwell rub is not bad at all, and I'm actually running the same factory wheelwell that came with the car (I'm running Michelin Primacy 4 195/55/r16 now).


The damage (more like wear honestly) is pretty minimal and is absolutely not a problem. It only happens at a specific angle just before full lock to either side.



As for performance brake pads or rotors. I'm myself out on a lookout for better pads/rotors for this callipers. From what I have gathered, the Petrol/iTurbo's smaller rotors has better Oem-replacement support like Bosch's ceramic composite pads. Those were pretty good but were too harsh on the rotors (I honestly don't mind replacing rotors every 20-30k kms if the braking performance is better). But unfortunately such options don't seem to be available for the diesel size. I've tried to reach out to brakeup.in but even they didn't seem to have options from reputable vendors like bosch, brembo, ebc.

There are currently active threads and communication channels open with both brembo and ebc to develop pads and rotors for Indian cars (tata Mahindra etc).

As for options currently available to us, Raceconcepts BLR have options for steel braided brake lines for better pedal feel and also modding the rotors to be slotted.

Apart from that. I'm not aware about any other options. Please do let me know, I'll keep this thread updated with further leads that I get or mods that I might do

[Deadskyi]

Invest in a better subwoofer I'd say. It should tie the whole setup nicely. Underseat sub, especially Harman doesn't sound promising enough.

[aBlueAltroz]

Hi,

I also drive an i-Turbo, with wolf stage 1+ map. I have also installed cobra lowering springs with MRF Perfinza tyres and using an HPI air filter. Currently I'm happy with the setup. Just wanted to know how good is the diesel Altroz's brakes in i-Turbo?? And how did you procure it? Boodmo?

Also, I think K&N is manufacturing stock replacement filters. Has anyone installed it? Code6 has a stage 2 map for i-Turbo. Any thoughts on getting it done?

Thanks.

[SavoyWalrus]

Originally Posted by aBlueAltroz

Hi,

I also drive an i-Turbo, with wolf stage 1+ map. I have also installed cobra lowering springs with MRF Perfinza tyres and using an HPI air filter. Currently I'm happy with the setup. Just wanted to know how good is the diesel Altroz's brakes in i-Turbo?? And how did you procure it? Boodmo?

Also, I think K&N is manufacturing stock replacement filters. Has anyone installed it? Code6 has a stage 2 map for i-Turbo. Any thoughts on getting it done?

Thanks.

The diesel Altroz's brakes are a direct fit (the Altroz CNG and auto also uses the same setup). You need to buy new calipers, brake discs and pads. It's a massive upgrade, I'd say. Feel is way better than the stock, which is subpar, especially if you have a remap. Boodmo is a little tricky, they sometimes have it, and sometimes don't. I sourced from a parts dealer in Bangalore.

I've added the K&N replacement filter too. Works perfectly fine. I've got a stage 1 Code6 remap. Pretty satisfied with it.

[CannedShroud]

Journey Update: Creature Comfort Upgrades
Ever since Tata introduced the BS6 Phase 2 cars, I’ve been on the lookout for drop-in parts to improve my Altroz iTurbo’s NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness). While I don’t yearn for an engine so refined that you can’t tell it’s running, a little NVH improvement never hurt anyone. The Phase 2 reviews were quite positive, so I started digging into the potential changes Tata Motors might have made for such gains—shafts, counterbalances, the works. To my surprise, I found nothing concrete.
That was until I recently sat in my friend’s Nexon. Despite sharing the same engine mechanically, the Nexon felt miles better inside the cabin. Interestingly, with the hood open, the Nexon felt even rougher than the iTurbo. However, none of these vibrations made it into the cabin, which led me to explore engine mounts (something I should have done earlier, honestly).
The Research

Scouring part numbers revealed some intriguing details. The Phase 2 Altroz comes with three mounts—A, B, and C—but their compatibility tables are puzzling:

• Mount A: Shared with Phase 2 iTurbo and Racer.
• Mount B: Shared with Phase 2 iTurbo and DCA.
• Mount C: Shared with Phase 2 iTurbo and Phase 2 NA.

It seemed promising that all three were compatible with the iTurbo. However, confidence can be fragile.
The Fitting Process

As soon as we started fitting the mounts, we hit roadblocks:

• Mount B: Despite being the most likely to fit, it didn’t. Two bolt holes attaching to the frame were spaced two inches farther apart than in Phase 1. While some light fabrication work could make it fit, I didn’t want to experiment with engine mounts. My FNG (friendly neighborhood garage) also lacked the expertise for such modifications.
• Mount C: This was a complete mismatch. Its shape differed significantly, with the mount holes positioned at almost a 90-degree angle compared to Phase 1.

Finally, some good news—Mount A fit perfectly!
This mount seemed the least likely to fit, but it worked. It’s heavier and the rubber feels stiffer than the Phase 1 version, which might seem counterproductive for vibration reduction, but it indeed felt better!



Left: Phase 1 mount
Right: Phase 2 mount



Results!


After replacing just one of the three mounts, the improvement in NVH is noticeable. The vibrations haven’t disappeared entirely, and it’s not close to the refinement of, say, a Maruti or Honda 4-cylinder, but it’s significantly better.
Idle, AC on/off, low RPM under light loads, or high RPM under pulls—it’s smoother across the board. And no, it’s not a placebo!


I used a Pixel 7 Pro placed in the cup holder, running an app to measure vibrations for about 30 seconds. While I can’t verify the absolute accuracy, the readings reflect the improvements:



Before (AC On)


After (AC On)


After (AC Off)


Here’s the part number for the mount:
Engine Mount A: 544224100175 (₹3,350/-)
Phase 2 (hehe get it?) : A Proper Subwoofer Upgrade

Gone is the off-brand, under-seat Hamaan subwoofer with its muddy, garbled bass. Enter a beautiful Sony unit!

• Subwoofer: SONY XS-W104ES
• Amplifier: SONY XM-GS100

This setup delivers clean, punchy bass that feels precise in songs needing it and stays subtle in those that don’t. I’m no audiophile, but for me, this is perfection! A DSP would be the cherry on top, but for now, the hacky JamesDSP app on my rooted phone does just fine.






Thanks again for the read, do let me know if you have any suggestions or remarks as to where we can go on from here.



She says Hi

Originally Posted by Deadskyi

Invest in a better subwoofer I'd say. It should tie the whole setup nicely. Underseat sub, especially Harman doesn't sound promising enough.

Hehe

Originally Posted by aBlueAltroz

Hi,

I also drive an i-Turbo, with wolf stage 1+ map. I have also installed cobra lowering springs with MRF Perfinza tyres and using an HPI air filter. Currently I'm happy with the setup. Just wanted to know how good is the diesel Altroz's brakes in i-Turbo?? And how did you procure it? Boodmo?

Also, I think K&N is manufacturing stock replacement filters. Has anyone installed it? Code6 has a stage 2 map for i-Turbo. Any thoughts on getting it done?

Thanks.

The brakes are solid! I sourced mine through Tata via my FNG. As for stage 2, I’d need a proper exhaust overhaul first. A decat might make this engine too noisy for my liking.
How’s your experience with lowering springs? I value the stock suspension’s balance for road trips, but if I ever upgrade, I’d consider fully adjustable coilovers. Thoughts?

[aBlueAltroz]

Originally Posted by CannedShroud

How’s your experience with lowering springs? I value the stock suspension’s balance for road trips, but if I ever upgrade, I’d consider fully adjustable coilovers. Thoughts?

Stock suspension was too soft for my liking. Especially the rear when driving alone. I could feel the body roll during quick direction changes. Thats why i wanted something stiffer. Coilovers wasnt available back then. So i went for Lowering springs.

Lowering springs is stiff, and the ride is on firm side. On bad roads and over potholes, you have to drive slow down. Your passengers will definitely complain the harshness. And the ground clearance is reduced and you have to keep that in mind. When you are with your family, you have to be careful not to go through speed breakers or bad patches too fast. Even you have to be careful over rumble stripes.

But on good roads, be it highways, twisties or even in city, the feedback and confidence you get to push the car is impressive. Ride is stiff but planted. Steering inputs are precise. Even the stock tyres felt grippy in corners. Im currently using MRF perfinza with stock dimensions 195x55 and the performance is more then enough for my still level. I am 100% satisfied with the setup now.

The possibility of someone making a coilovers for altroz is zero as the sales numbers of altroz is dropping each month.

And i felt the stock brakes are adequate right now. Never felt braking an issue after switching to perfinza. I am planning to get a downpipe and may be a stage2 map after that. Before that i think i should get some brake upgrades.

[aBlueAltroz]

Originally Posted by CannedShroud

As for options currently available to us, Raceconcepts BLR have options for steel braided brake lines for better pedal feel and also modding the rotors to be slotted.

Anyone installed steel braided brake line?

[Chaman K]

Been a while since I came by this thread!!
Our tuned Diesel altroz has already eaten up the stock tyres at 17k kms. We are completely at fault for that as the car begs to be driven hard. Evidenced by the fact we get 14-15 kmpl in our mixed driving cycle. (There is something wrong when you never have vehicles overtake you)
I was beginning to doubt it's some engine problem but then there was a long drive my grandmother was going on and dad lent his altroz and it returned 21.5 kmpl. So yes we have to chill out.

Now back to tyres.
To retain warranty of suspension - 185/60 R16 or upsize
195 vs 205/55 R16

Suggestions??

I love the 205/55 R16 Vredestein Ultrac Vorti-i tyres on my polo tsi. Especially wet grip and road noise which is very low. But open to different tyres for altroz. Our running is quite low so longevity isn't that much of a concern.

[CannedShroud]

Originally Posted by aBlueAltroz

Anyone installed steel braided brake line?

No, unfortunately — but they can be built to spec either from RC or EE BLR. Personally though, I’d rather go for better quality brake fluid first. I recently switched to ENV6, and it’s been an amazing experience!
The brakes feel beautifully linear now — very luxury-car-like. The bite is progressive, and it no longer feels like you’re pressing into a pillow. Absolutely perfect for touring — and what’s even better is that the feedback stays consistent even when things get hot.
That said, this “no change with heat” thing can be a double-edged sword because if you’re aiming for constant spirited drives, especially with the stock rotors, you might actually want some feedback variance to know where things are thermally.
My suggestion — go for ENV6 or a good Performance DOT4 paired with diesel rotors. The improvement is seriously worth it. You could even try a Performance DOT4 on your current stock setup first and see how it feels — it’s a pretty inexpensive upgrade and makes a noticeable difference.

Originally Posted by Chaman K

Now back to tyres.
To retain warranty of suspension - 185/60 R16 or upsize
195 vs 205/55 R16

Suggestions??

I love the 205/55 R16 Vredestein Ultrac Vorti-i tyres on my polo tsi. Especially wet grip and road noise which is very low. But open to different tyres for altroz. Our running is quite low so longevity isn't that much of a concern.

Great to hear you’re enjoying the car mate - wishing you many happy and spirited miles ahead!

I’m currently running Primacy 4 on my Altroz and honestly, they’ve been the best balance I’ve experienced on this chassis. Given how heavy and stiff the car is, paired with its softish suspension, tyres make a huge difference to how it behaves. If you’ve seen the Racer at the Autocar Track Day 2025, you’ll know what I mean - those Ecotreads did it no favours.

And you’ve experienced this first-hand too, with that 17k km life. The Altroz does love being driven hard.

Coming to the Vredestein Ultrac - while I haven’t run them personally, I’ve heard plenty of good things about them on the forum. Since they’re manufactured by Apollo in India, warranty claims (if needed) should be hassle-free too.

I’ve also tried Continental UC6 on the Altroz - slightly quieter than the Michelins, and definitely much grippier than stock. But what put me off was how they behaved on the limit. Grip would come and go a little too abruptly, making it hard to trust them when pushing. The Michelins, on the other hand, are beautifully linear and give you brilliant feedback on what the front end is up to.

Another option worth a look is the Perfinza. I have heard, they’re even grippier than both UC6 and Primacy 4, but you’ll have to live with a shorter life — around 20k km from what people report. With the Altroz’s weight and how the chassis tempts you, I’d personally prefer something that lasts at least 35-40k.

If outright grip is your only priority - the Yokohama S Drives are your best bet. Rail-like grip, crazy fun - but noisy, and forget about life haha (They get like 10-15k kms on swifts!)

Personally though, I’d still stick with the Michelins - excellent grip, great life, quiet, and they look good too. I’m not a fan of how the Vredesteins look (that sidewall design isn’t for me). The Contis look decent with the diamond pattern, but they tend to bulge a bit.

You could always pick up the Vredesteins to benchmark the Altroz against your Polo - I’d actually love to hear your impressions if you do. Tyres really do change the character of this chassis.

As for size — 195/55 R16 is a safe, OEM-approved spec (this was stock on the iTurbo in 2021). I’d only go for 205/55 if you really need the extra sidewall for comfort. I did try a 205 set on Contis once - manageable wheel well wear, no major issues. I’ve documented this earlier in the thread.

Looking forward to hearing what you pick and how it transforms the car for you — do keep us posted! Let us know about your experience between the polo and the Altroz as well!

[autoliebe]

Originally Posted by GTO

The memories you create with a car are more important than anything else. The money you'd saved up for mods, spend it on road-tripping with your friends / girlfriend / family.

GTO: reading this post after 1.5 years of its creation. A simple yet deep insight that is. Thankful that you wrote it and lucky that I read it today. Not exaggerating here but sometimes very simple things hit you the deepest to change something in you deep within.

Spending on upgrading cars which at times seems unnecessary is no good than spending on making memories with family and friends in that very same car. The return on that money spent is in multifolds.

I didn’t find any relevant thread on TeamBHP which summarises softer aspect related to cars, people using them and insights there on.

Time to make one such standalone thread tagging all such posts distributed across the forum?

Cheers,

[CannedShroud]

A Very Exciting Update: Stage 2+ for the Altroz iTurbo

After months of contemplation and planning, I finally bit the bullet — and the result is spectacular. This wasn’t just a drop-in tune; it was a complete overhaul aimed at unlocking the car’s true potential.

Planned Upgrades:

1. Front-Mount Intercooler (FMIC)
2. Upgraded Intercooler Plumbing
3. Decat Downpipe
4. Custom Dyno Tune on 95 Octane

The work was carried out by the amazing team at Engineering Exponent (EE) in Bangalore, using the dyno at FRK Racing. Massive thanks to the EE crew — this wasn’t an easy job by any means, but they absolutely delivered.


The Journey Begins: Goa to Bangalore
The plan was straightforward: drive to Bangalore, get the work done, and fly back. The road trip itself was uneventful but smooth — a one-shot run with just a coffee break. The Altroz cruised effortlessly at 120 km/h for most of the way, thanks to brilliant 6-lane highways and light traffic after Hubli.

Took the Satellite Ring Road to enter Whitefield — a move that paid off big time. Shoutout to fellow BHPians who helped with the route!


Planning and First Impressions
Met the team at EE and chalked out the action plan. The next morning, work began with the removal of the bumper and cat-con to assess intercooler fitment. Reality struck hard — zero space behind the bumper, and the grille intrudes way too far in. A meaningful intercooler upgrade was beginning to look near impossible.




To make matters worse, we spotted a coolant leak from the oil cooler. Possibly due to the long, high-rev cruise in the summer heat? No idea. But it was a serious concern — I’ve had poor experiences with Tata spares in Goa, and the thought of going through that ordeal again gave me chills.



Thankfully, EE and their OE part sources came in clutch. The leak was traced to the oil cooler hose, but I wasn’t taking chances. I'd seen another Altroz iTurbo suffer from oil cooler failure, so I got the whole unit replaced along with the hose. Parts were in stock and everything was sorted by the next day. A night-and-day difference from most OE experiences!


Work Begins: No Baseline Dyno, but the Show Must Go On
I had hoped to get a baseline dyno run, but due to scheduling conflicts and an incoming weekend, it would mean delaying the whole process by 3–4 days. With clouds looming and my travel plan hanging, We made the call to proceed without a base run.
With the cat-con removed, the fabricator (Kiran at EE) got to work. The custom downpipe made from SS304 piping all around (2.5, 2.25, 2 inch) along with flanges made from solid SS - that resulted in an absolute work of art — clean welds, precise bends, and solid construction. Both O2 sensors retained in stock locations, along with the heat shield. Couldn’t be happier.



This photo was taken after a few test runs and hence has the yellow tint but imo looks absolutely sick!


The stock downpipe gasket was not up to the mark and after a few test runs started leaking. To fix this, solid copper gasket was used.

The Intercooler Saga
Now back to the FMIC challenge — one of the trickiest parts of the entire build.
We tried everything: vertical, horizontal, even upside-down orientations. We even considered a larger SMIC and a water-to-air intercooler setup. But with the stock bumper design severely restricting airflow and available space, the SMIC upgrade wouldn’t have been much of a gain. And the water-to-air option? Too complex, too expensive, and simply overkill for what we were aiming to achieve.




A quick look at the stock SMIC (Side mount intercooler)

Eventually, after hours of brainstorming and trial fits, the team made a bold decision — to cut off the stock plastic mounts and fabricate a custom bracket to mount the Behr Mahle tube-fin unit rated for 180 BHP. Risky? Absolutely. But it was the only solution that had a real shot at working with the space constraints we had. And it worked. Just barely — clearances are razor-thin. Even getting the hoses to fit was an exercise in precision. We upgraded from the stock 1.5–1.75-inch rubber piping to 2.25-inch, 4-ply silicone nylon hoses along with SS304 pipes, which required perfect routing and clamping to avoid any interference or rubbing.

None of this would’ve been possible without the sheer spatial brilliance of the team at EE. Huge credit to Jayant and Kiran, who made key calls at every stage — balancing performance, practicality, and safety. The custom mount, though unconventional, was executed so cleanly that it actually looks like it belongs there. The kind of work that shows both guts and craftsmanship.


The remains of the stamped lip of the crashguard had to be trimmed to make this possible





Intercooler plumbing - this was later welded all around just like the downpipe


The mounts were then welded all the way through on the crash guard with a flat cut silicon hose piece to prevent any rattle



4 Ply nylon reinforced silicon hoses, good for 180 degrees and 150psi.

Hats off to the team for pulling off what initially looked close to impossible. This isn’t just a build — it’s a testament to what passion and expertise can achieve when the odds are stacked tight, literally.

Here is the final look with everything closed up. Look at that clearance. Jeez!




With all of that out of the way, time to tune this tiny TEL spinny boy!


Wizardry: Street Logs and Dyno
We loaded a base map from Wolf and began street logging with 2nd and 3rd gear pulls. The data was then sent back to Wolf, and we continued tuning on the dyno the next day.
Turns out, the ECU (Bosch ME17.9.71 - TC1724) is fairly basic, and Wolf didn’t have robust definitions for the Altroz platform yet. The tuning team had to go in blind, reverse-engineering tables manually — a laborious task. Tata had also implemented different limiters for City and Sport modes, adding another layer of complexity.
But the Wolf wizards pulled it off!

One of my biggest gripes was the stock redline — the engine ran out of breath after 5500 RPM, making mid-overtake shifts unavoidable. We gradually raised the limit to 6600 RPM, but dialed it back to 6300 RPM after noticing some floatiness. That’s 100 RPM more than the NA Altroz, which shares the same valvetrain part numbers. A very welcome tweak.


Power Figures and Dyno Graph
We made 107 WHP and 170 WNm on the dyno. Considering drivetrain losses (18–20% as observed in Tiago NA runs on the coimbatore dyno), this translates to roughly 130 HP at the crank.

Not eye-popping peak gains, but extremely linear and consistent torque across the band — and that’s what makes this tune so effective.

Note: The dyno comparison is stock map + decat + intercooler vs tuned map + decat + intercooler — so actual gains over bone stock are even higher.

By back-calculating, the stock Altroz iTurbo was likely making ~85 WHP, which lines up with community estimates. So overall, we’re looking at ~23% power gain, and most importantly — it’s healthy and usable.


Real World Driving Experience
The transformation is night and day.

• The car now grabs boost eagerly, especially post 2K RPM.
• Low-end drivability remains intact.
• Torque builds hard and holds into the new redline.
• The car now pulls clean in 2nd and 3rd, and overtakes are a breeze.
• Most importantly, it feels FUN. Not just faster — but alive, like it wants to prance ahead every time you squeeze the throttle.

I am not sure if it’s objectively quicker. But it does put a smile on your face. That joy of pulling hard, hearing the turbo spool, and feeling the car surge forward — it’s a thrill no top-speed figure can replicate.



There are still a couple of teething issues with the map, but the Wolf team is already on it, and a revised version is on the way. Huge thanks to them for diving deep into this platform, especially with an ECU that doesn’t make life easy. The work they’ve done so far has completely changed the character of the car.
Even in its current state, the car is an absolute riot to drive. It builds boost confidently from low down, hits 14.6 PSI by 3,600 RPM, and just pulls with intent. The way it pitches up boost, the responsiveness, the eagerness — it’s a completely different machine now.




https://jumpshare.com/s/94v2qosBmyr7G64tDQaZ
A pull. Screaaaming turbo

Whether you're cruising or going for a quick overtake, it’s always ready, always fun, and always putting a smile on your face. Honestly, I don't know it’s faster — but it feels fast, feels alive, and it feels fun, and that’s what matters.


Thanks a lot for reading along and being a part of this journey. Next up - probably some better springs from the Racer

Drive On!