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-   -   The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/43377-tata-safari-2-2l-technical-problems-thread-8.html)

The needle will cross 4000rpm in neutral but the limiter comes into effect on the speed after apprx 165, you feel as if being pushed back by someone.

its not limited to 3250 in neutral. I reved mine upto 3500-4000 in neutral and goes up without a hitch.
Haven't tried crossing 140 kmph though, so cant comment

I havent gone beyond 120-125 yet so don't know.

As for grr..grr surging at cold start, it went away on its own. Funny. Started her after more than 24 hours and there is no surging at all.

So the only outstanding issues remain are rattles
1. Dashboard
2. Steering column squeak
3. Drivers seat squeak
4. Rear seat squeak

Going over a speedbreaker at moderate speeds(no jump, just slightly faster than dead slow), gives a "Khat" from suspension which can be felt through the floor.
Similar to if underbody is touching. But the speedbreaker in question was too low for underbody to touch as couple of cars also took it as faster than me

Will wait for a 1000kms or so before getting rattles fixed, so that all of them can be fixed in one go

Its the Idler arm, slight tightening will help.

thanks dadu, can it wait or should I go this weekend. I was waiting for more rattles to creep up before going for the fix

As I experienced the noise will increase over time(a month) as the play in the locking nut increases. Remedy is to remove the lockingpin, tighten the nut a tad and then put back the new pin.

You can wait, I waited since I was not able to find the source despite getting under the chassis. Once the noise became more frequent, the SA was able to detect it by banging the idler arms with his hand to replicate the noise.

This is not a serious mechanical issue, but an annoying one though.

I had got the left door rattle fixed during the 15k service. Has started to come again after a week of service.

They had tightend the door hinge / pins but looks like there is something 'inside' the door that is loose.

ORVMs also are becoming loose. Is there a way to tighten them 'inside' the casing other than tightening the 3 screws below the arm ?

As for the door rattle, if you open safari door you will see various thermocol bits wrapping wires etc., and in between panels. During repair etc., mechanics often lose these, and it contributes to rattle.

another source is the power window. There are a couple of bolts which are used to keep the power window on the railing. They come slightly loose over time, and then you have rattles.

I think there is a different thread on this, but wanted to check with the Safari owners if anyone has experienced this, so am posting it here.

Problem : Low fuel efficiency.

I've seen threads reporting a FE of 10/11 for incity use with A/c on always, and 13/14 on highways.

I understand that a lot could depend on driving style, traffic conditions etc.,

I dont think I drive with a lead foot and am getting with a/c on always, 9.5kpl in the city and about 12 on highways at max speeds of 100kph, so given the above factors, what kind of tuning can be done to improve the FE ?

1) Will ECU reset help ?
2) Is it due to bad fuel / fuel filters/ air filters ?
3) Blocked injectors ?
4) Will a engine flush help ?

thanks
Srini

Guys, one of my friend who has bought EX2.2 in Jan 2008, got his damper pulley belt broken and it damaged the head. However, it have been replaced under warranty and the vehicle is back.
I called Tata after this episode and asked them about this issue, since I bought mine in Dec 2007, they asked me to go to Avon and get it replaced .
I have sent my vehicle today to Avon for the replacement.

However I did not got any call from the showrom from where I bought the safari, it was my proactiveness, so I do not know who else will be affected, So get it touch with tata's to know about your vehicles as well.

bruty, same thing happened with a family friend of ours.
Thats a jan 2008 model too.
the car was in workshop for over a week.

Anyways I had asked this query earlier also, but no reply.
What do you do when the water in sedimenter light comes on?
The owners manual(which i downloaded) suggests that you can loosen a screw, drain water and again tighten the screw.
Is this a simple DIY or you have to go to TASC.
What happens if this light comes on at a remote place. How many kms can you drive without harming the engine or fuel pump etc.,

More power to you.
I felt that the gear knob is pretty good looking. Anyway, that is not really an answer to your question.

In 3.0 Safari, the metallic looking piece on which the numbers (1,2,3..R) are inscribed is glued on to the gear knob. If you carefully remove the metallic piece, I *vaguely* remember seeing a screw under it. How do I know? Now don't ask me that.

Cheers,
Su-47

10.7 is TATA official figures for city, so this is acceptable and depends on traffic etc.

Use clean fuel and you can reset ECU once, no harm.

You drain the water by unscrewing the drain plug.


(not an exact representation for Safari, for illustration only)


To drain: Slacken off the drain plug, to allow any water to drain off. Retighten the plug as soon as pure diesel is emitted.

If you dont the engine might start giving you hicups and might die later due to excess water in the fuel. Prolonged water can cause damage to the injectors.

Its a simple DIY, unless you are too scared, then suggest the TASC.

Tanveer, Dadu has illustrated already but just wanted to mention that my truck has clocked 40k kms on date & not once have I faced the issue of the sedimenter light staying on. Don't know if its luck or the result of staying consistently with the same fuel bunks over the past 22 months but whatever......

Suman, I faced it on Day 1, driving out of the Concorde showroom in Bangalore and again on the 2nd tank fill in a week's time. Havent had this problem afterthat though.