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Old 4th May 2009, 02:23   #16
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Thanks for the info Trust In Thrust, what i think is that the rpm are not increasing when i switch on the ac :(, is there any way i can spot the switch and see whether its working or not? Will the service center help out on this issue?

And yes i'm going to get the 120 watts fan tomorrow, there was no time today as it was late in the evening by the time it was installed..

Any way i can find out what make the evaporator is? All i could see was that it was enclosed in a black box and was pretty broad. Sorry for my ignorance there.. i was just too psyched about it i guess.
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Old 4th May 2009, 08:54   #17
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Originally Posted by eternalck View Post
Furthermore is there no way for the engine idle rpm to increase automatically when i switch on the ac? The engine does not stall but starts vibrating when i switch on the ac while on idle, so have to press the gas pedal slightly to bring it to normal...
There is a small motor like thing fitted near carb which is connected with AC switch. It changes vaccum to slightly increase engine RPM when AC is switched on. Check that its working properly or not.

Throw few mugs of water on AC radiator when you move out, it will make AC work better.
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Old 4th May 2009, 15:24   #18
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So i finally got an AC fitted in my 2000 carb m800 with a sanden 507 compressor today for 11500 bucks. The installation was very clean without any problems.

The stock 80 watts radiator fan has not being upgraded to 120 watts yet.
There is absolutely no overheating and the temperature needle stays in the mid position like it normally would, though i would change the fan to 120 watts tomorrow.
There is some power loss but its not so drastic that i feel gravely underpowered (apart from the fact that its underpowered already without an ac )
The condenser coil is of serpentine type and was installed in front of the radiator.

a) Now my question is, there is pretty cool air blowing out from the vents, but not so much as the air conditioners installed at my home or the AC in my dad's Verna. Is it supposed to be only this much cool?
The air is not 'chilling' to feel on the hands. Is the 80watts fan to blame here?

b) Furthermore is there no way for the engine idle rpm to increase automatically when i switch on the ac? The engine does not stall but starts vibrating when i switch on the ac while on idle, so have to press the gas pedal slightly to bring it to normal...

Can you help me with these doubts please? Thanks in advance


if you are using a sanden, then the cooling will be really chilly that you will have to keep the blower speed to #1 after some time. Its that effective. I think you will experience the chilliness after you upgrade to the 120 watt fan.
Word of Caution: Do not expect your car to cool if you are stuck in traffic. The Ac's in 800 start cooling only when the car is moving in gear, I don't know why but its cools the best as soon as you hit 3rd. be Prepared to bear the heat while in traffic. Another thing, if your car has been standing in the heat for long and you want to put on the Ac, optimum way is to rolldown your window and have the ac running at full blower speed till all the hot air goes out and you start feeling the cool air. also since the vents are small, remember that sometimes the cooling might not be very effective specially if you are driving towards the sun.
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Old 4th May 2009, 20:49   #19
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@krazydriver When i went out at 10 am today, when the temp outside was like 35-36C, it was chilling like crazy and gave me a headache while on medium position! Then when i went out at 1PM to get the sunfilms installed, it was not chilling, it was just blowing cool air (not at the outside temperature though) and it was comfortable enough inside and there was no sweating. It was like spring was in the air .

Then when i consulted the accessories guy, he told me that a cheap chinese cooling coil installed is the problem. I then talked to my own installer, he told me that it all was part of a kit.

Now if that was the problem then i think it would'nt have been able to chill so much even when in normal heat ~36C. The air was just at the temp like my 1.5 ton ACs installed in my home even i felt the verna lacking a bit (but its just in my head).

@Hashim How do i know its working, doesn't seem to be...
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Old 4th May 2009, 23:49   #20
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Also Hashim, the connection obviously has to be with some kind of a wire but i don't see any wire connected to anywhere near the carb!
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Old 5th May 2009, 00:09   #21
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there is a minature plastic pump with to rubber pipes and some wires going on in It is clamped on the firewall just behind the carb
The pump will look similar to the one in windscreen washer bottle
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Old 5th May 2009, 00:21   #22
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ok thanks SirAlec i'l check it out tomorrow.
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Old 5th May 2009, 12:15   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eternalck View Post
@krazydriver When i went out at 10 am today, when the temp outside was like 35-36C, it was chilling like crazy and gave me a headache while on medium position! Then when i went out at 1PM to get the sunfilms installed, it was not chilling, it was just blowing cool air (not at the outside temperature though) and it was comfortable enough inside and there was no sweating. It was like spring was in the air .

Then when i consulted the accessories guy, he told me that a cheap chinese cooling coil installed is the problem. I then talked to my own installer, he told me that it all was part of a kit.

Now if that was the problem then i think it would'nt have been able to chill so much even when in normal heat ~36C. The air was just at the temp like my 1.5 ton ACs installed in my home even i felt the verna lacking a bit (but its just in my head).

@Hashim How do i know its working, doesn't seem to be...
Exactly what i had mentioned. The only reason it wasn't chilling at 1Pm was because the car was already heated by the sun and the surface area on the windshield had intense heat coverage so you are unable to feel the chill.

Am glad that you like it. Now enjoy the Summer Chill.
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Old 5th May 2009, 13:17   #24
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hehe.. summers were never so pleasant with the 800 ...

one more thing, the installer disconnected my stock heater , it worked so good in the winters.. the defogger was a charm.
i dont think it would have affected the cooling since its vents were closing properly and the blower sent out air at room temperature when i set it at the full blue position.

should i have it reconnected when the rains come?


another thing, he had not closed the fresh air vent! and i had to close it the next morning before i ran the ac (stuck polythene bags and thermocol packing into it), the 'not chilling' post was after the ac was just installed and the vent was fully open above the cooling coil (there is some distance though);
so can it be that it was because of this that it was the problem? outside odors were easily coming inside the cabin that night, this is not the case now.

Last edited by eternalck : 5th May 2009 at 13:32.
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Old 5th May 2009, 13:51   #25
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all these issues just point to the fact that he was a newbie at it... at least its working great now.

yet another thing, there is absolutely NO air movement on the condenser coil with the 80 watts radiator fan, all the places i went to get it changed to 120w, i was just bluntly told it will be of no use :(

i think if an additional smaller fan could be fitted in front of the coil it would affect the stationary cooling power..as its not being cooled by the radiator one. all the air from the fan is being reflected back into the engine bay! WHY?

Last edited by eternalck : 5th May 2009 at 14:10.
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Old 5th May 2009, 18:52   #26
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Originally Posted by SirAlec View Post
there is a minature plastic pump with to rubber pipes and some wires going on in It is clamped on the firewall just behind the carb
The pump will look similar to the one in windscreen washer bottle
I checked it out just now, is it the round cylinder like thing, orange on top and green at bottom?

If yes then there's only one tube on the bottom green part and a tube on the orange part is missing, i can clearly see where its supposed to be (a long protrusion with a hole in the middle) on the orange top. There is a plug on the base with 2 wires going in but there's no new connection i can notice there.

I also notice that the rpm now remains high even if the ac is on or off.

Whats up with it?
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Old 5th May 2009, 19:44   #27
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Originally Posted by eternalck View Post
all the air from the fan is being reflected back into the engine bay! WHY?
Thats how the fan is supposed to work. The direction of the airflow is towards the engine to complement the flow caused by when the car is in motion.
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Old 5th May 2009, 20:36   #28
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yup that makes sense, why dint i know that !

"so i guess installing the 120w fan would also make no difference to the cooling since it depends on the airflow from outside and not the fan and since the car is not getting heated beyond the normal halfway mark (in fact it remains slightly below the halfway mark after the ac runs), there is no use installing that?" <--I now know that the radiator fan sucks air, please disregard this statement. I'm so a newbie when it comes to cars.

EDIT:
i've just had an epiphany! so does the fan rotates so it can suck air from the radiator? then it means that air must be flowing from the condenser towards the radiator, thats why it was feeling like there was no airflow in front of it.

Last edited by eternalck : 5th May 2009 at 20:48.
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Old 5th May 2009, 22:40   #29
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why is the rpm high now. what changes did you do.?

if the rubber hose is missing you should install one. it will go to the carburettor.
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Old 5th May 2009, 23:31   #30
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i did nothing, its just behaving this way by itself since this morning.

and yes its missing maybe this is the problem which is why its behaving this way...

Last edited by eternalck : 5th May 2009 at 23:33.
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