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Thanks a lot. I did check some of these. Amsoil seems to be good from the feedback here but it is expensive. I'll give it a try. Any reviews on the Hyundai Xsteer? This seems more value for money from the available options.

It is a Hyundai OEM oil in other countries, in India they use Shell or Servo. This seller must be sourcing it from gray market imports, but that shouldn't change the oil quality if it has been properly shipped and stored.

Mahindra hasn't ever come up with specs for their FEO / FEO v2 / other fluids so this boodmo listing for maximile is interesting.

https://boodmo.com/search/maximile/

FEO is apparently a 5w30 - https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-engi..._feo-52030522/
So most likely 5w30 ACEA C3 as the XUV500 UK manual suggested

FEO v2 for their newer cars is a 0w20 - that's going to be ACEA C2 or more likely as its a relatively newly developed oil C5 I guess https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-engi...o_v2-52030521/

Their Maximile Eco Premium that gets used for Supro etc CVs is a 15w40 so likely CH4 or higher mineral https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-engi...mium-52030531/

They also have transmission oils in 75w90 and 80w90

I have a global Fiesta 1.5 TDCi. What is the recommended engine oil grade for the 1.5 TDCi? It is running on a remap. Should we move to the next grade and from mineral oil to synthetic? A bit urgent.

1.5 TDCI was never on mineral. Ford WSS-M2C-917B/C standards that roughly correspond to ACEA A5/B5, 5w30.

Mobil Super 3000 x1 is the only oil on the open market that meets this Ford spec. Other oils are sold only to Ford service centers in bulk.

If you want ACEA A5/B5 5w30 oils, plenty of them such as Amsoil Signature Series 5w30.

I have a creta diesel (pre 2018). I have been one of the few who had to drive to work everyday even during the lockdown, so the kilometers have been adding up. Its time for the 50k service and I don't see much chances of the authorised service center being accessible over the next couple of weeks in Mumbai.
The company specifies CH4 15W40 from shell and IOC. Sourcing either is turning out to be an issue as most IOC outlets seem to carry only 20w40. Can I just buy some other brand like castrol or mak?
I am also trying to get the air filter from a local guy. What are the chances that I might get a non genuine spare part? Any risk there?

Hello,

You can buy any PCMO oriented DEO as long as it meets API-CH4 or higher spec such as API CJ-4 or even CK-4 as these are backwards compatible.

Castrol seems to be a popular brand in India and you can buy Castrol GTX Diesel 15W-40 which meets the API CH-4 spec.

I'm enclosing their authorized dealer locator: https://maps.castrol.com/?search=Ind...167.1561371159

You can also buy Shell Helix Diesel HX-5 15W-40. It also meets API CH-4 spec.

Trust this would help.

Thanks. It does give me more options. The only issue is that the authorised dealers generally play by the lockdown rules and remain shut.

You can source the any brand oil as long as it matches the recommended grade of 15W40 CH4.

I have used Mobil Delvac 1300 Super (15W40) too - a mineral oil in my Creta 1.6L CRDi.

Do look at fuel stations in your area as they do stock the oils in their offices. Look at Hindustan Petroleum fuel stations too.

Where are you going to get the engine oil filter?

I went with BPCL MAK CH4 15w40. The BPCL guys had an i20/verna oil filter and it looks like the same works for the creta as well.

For cars that run a lot of kilometres, consider Amsoil's energy conserving signature series. Unlike the misleading 'fully' synthetic oils sold by others. Amsoil's signature series has
- high dose of friction modifiers and scuff resistance package
- high dose of detergents/dispersants to keep the engine clean - especially critical for turbocharged and directed injected engines with EGR as these can knock badly if the engine is not kept clean
- a high Total Base number and protection against oil turning acidic with combustion byproducts
- and the base oil formulation is itself 100% synthetic, giving you fast and easy flow in cold engines (when most damage occurs) and lube film strength in hot running engines

especially when compared to other other top priced 'fully synthetic' oils like mobil variants. This has been shown in independent tests.

This give you a smoother engine that builds revs without hesitation, slightly improved fuel consumption, and much stronger engine protection for much longer - crucial towards end of oil life and for long drain intervals. Amsoil's 5W30 signature is certified for 40,000 km! I know of people who have run it for 20-25K km, felt the engine running as good as new and told by their mechanics that engine oil is in great condition. Careful people don't want to go much beyond the official 1year. Technically, the oil may be good even for two years if your car runs 15-18K odd km an year. Though I think Amsoil will never certify it for 2 years because it also depends upon engine and driving conditions, and someone will abuse it and come back with a lawsuit claiming the oil damaged their engine!

Amsoil also makes a turbo diesel specific 5W40 for slightly older engines, again with extra protection against friction/scuffing. I used to think that Diesel engines need more viscous oils, but recent diesels are all 5W30 or lower. The new diesels and engine oil specifications are moving to even lighter oils like 0W20 or 0W16, with GF6 coming in from 1st May. Engine tolerances are tighter, and the thinner oils also improve fuel efficiency. Beware of cheater 'fully synthetic' oils in such engines if you worry about long term protection or run the car a lot, even if such oils meet the spec when new. Remember, the oil is relatively new in your engine only for a few days.

In India, Greaves Cotton sells Amsoil. Prices are usually quite reasonable compared to pricing in the US. It is not more expensive than other synthetic oils, especially if you take the increased protection and drain interval into account. Amsoil signature is often cheaper in India than other high grade oils like Shell Rotella T6 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. While performing better! (These others are good too, not bad at all.)

This also brings me to lack of transparency in the lube industry. In consumer's interest, the law should make a few thing mandatory:
1. Lube manufacturers and OEM brand sellers must post composition of the oil and additive package online. This not really secret as any lube testing lab can tell you the composition. We can then decide for ourselves if we want to pay for extra performance and protection Or if our usage does not need it.
2. Nothing less than 100% synthetic base oil and additives can be labelled as full/fully synthetic.
3. There should be a minimum limit of synthetic base oil and additive packages, say 40-50% for an oil to be marketed as semi synthetic.

Even semi synth can be a fraud. You can have an oil with 2% synthetic components and marketed as semi synthetic oil, and oil companies charge a premium for it. They can always claim how it is better than competitor's mineral oil without calling it synthetic or semi-synthetic. It's not as it there was no lube marketing before synthetic oils came in.

please: In the meantime, how about TeamBHP (or one of the automotive magazines) doing a project?
- to test new and 1 year old used oil from vehicles with similar usage, especially for the top marketed brands/ brands generally considered the best.
- With lab reports and tests of lubrication, protection, engine condition, etc.
- Technically detailed test results can be sold to OEMs and lube makers, summary report can be shared on TeamBHP for readers, with some interesting videos.

Hi Guys, I would like to know why does the car manufacturers ask us to change the oil after a designated period of 6 months or 1 year even if the car has not run the scheduled kilometers say 10k or 15k .Why do we need to change the engine oil even if the vehicle has not been driven for even 500 km. The logic I want to know is how the oil deteriorates lying in the engine sump of parked vehicle and it does not deteriorate in the storage cans it comes packed in. :OT

In the sump it is exposed to acids, moisture, carbon deposits etc etc - all these degrade the oil gradually and all these aren't to be found in sealed cans. So .. you're better off changing unused oil after a year, maximum.

I have a second hand 1.5tdci global fiesta that i picked up this January which has covered about 75k km. It has been petes remapped by the previous owner in 2018. The engine is burning oil, about a liter since its last oil change at 70k km. I did a proper check before buying the car and never found symptoms of oil burning. Car runs great with excellent fuel efficiency.

Anyways, my mechanic has diagnosed the issue to be oil slipping past the piston rings. Was recommend to do an engine flush to try decarb the stuck piston rings ,if thats the case and fill full synthetic oil of a higher grade 5w40 insted of 5w30. If the oil still burns at the same rate after the flush then ill continue to use a semi synthetic oil with regular top ups.

Should i do the engine flush? If not, should i fill a full synthetic 5w40( amsoil/mobil) and stick to 10k km service intervals or stick to a semi synthetic 5w30 or just put a simple mineral oil and do the oil change every 5k with filter replacements?



Am still smitten by this fiesta and Ill be using the car for another 2 to 3 years max but am not going to do any engine overhaul to rectify this issue, so need some stop gap measure. The horror of 2020 doesn't seem to be subsiding :Frustrati

MODS: kindly move this post to the right thread if it doesn't
belong here.

You could try even a 15w40 mineral to stave this problem off for a while but I think your car’s remap needs to have been a bit less enthusiastic