HVK Scorpio Aug 12, Bombay-Behror, 1402 kms
Aug 13, Behror-Rampur, 692 kms
Aug 14, Rampur-Chitkul, 144 kms
Aug 15, Chitkul-Pooh, 207 kms
Aug 16, Pooh-Kaza, 178 kms
Aug 17-19, Kaza, 291 kms
Aug 20, Kaza-Jispa, 236 kms
Aug 21, Jispa-Leh, 374 kms
Aug 22, Leh-Kargil, 343 kms
Aug 23, Kargil-Padum, 248 kms
Aug 24, Padum-Kargil, 275 kms
Aug 25, Kargil-Leh, 259 kms
Aug 26, Leh, 148 kms
Aug 27, 2011, Leh-Turtuk, 241 kms
Aug 28, 2011, Leh-Pangong Tso, 445 kms
Aug 29, 2011, Pangong-Hanle, 203 kms
Aug 30, 2011, Hanle-Tso Moriri, 188 kms
Aug 31, 2011, Tso Moriri-Keylong, 375 kms Sep 1, 2011, Keylong-Chamba, 341 kms Khillar 2 Sach Pass: The Sach Pass itself, 430-530 pm
440 pm, Bhagotu Check Post, 3500 mtrs
We have taken 2 hours to cover 33 kms, quite fast.
This is the point which we feared stopped motorists beyond 5 pm. Or so someone had told us earlier.
The Check Post
But nothing of that sort. There are no timing restrictions here. It is just 13 more kms from here to Sach Pass. But some 1000 mtrs higher!
This check post is in the middle of nowhere, just 2-3 tents with cops sitting there entering our car/ passenger details in their registers. Friendly guys, theirs is not an enviable job.
But we got chai! So we took our first real break here - for 15 minutes, to register & drink tea.
Surprisingly, I see that Google Maps shows the road from Bagotu to Chamba. It did not have any of the sections from Khillar till here.
Wild Flowers
One word about the road - what you are seeing is a "wider" road - which was earlier narrow!
We now have company. The
bull-dozer driver of the HP PWD who has been working these roads for the last 18 years. His duty was to clear the road and he wanted to go to his home in Bhairavgarh - just 45 kms or 3 hours drive away! He proved to be a cheerful bloke, very talkative, shared with us many anecdotes and lots of info about this region & the building of the road. He has spent a career working only here and nowhere else. He drives the bull dozer which he says is an everyday job because of the constant dribbling down of rocks onto the road. The snow in this road is cleared the last, and the Sach Pass does not open till end-June, but can remain open till as long as end-Nov every year. In the winter months, he is deployed in the Bhairavgarh area. He was also quiet amused with our enthusiasm to drive these wretched roads, mostly the privilege of only the Bolero pick ups and Maxx taxis.
We had stopped thinking of the Swifts - we knew they would have got the message from the Bolero pick ups - since BolBolero had accosted 3-4 of them and told them to convey the message if they saw the Swifts dissuading them from following behind - happy in the thought they would be enjoying the comfort of hotel rooms in Khillar.
The higher we climb, the more the glaciers around us. The last of the "tempos" has already passed us by, although I believe that the pick-ups travel this route by night too.
You can go off the road into the valley and no one will know.
You can break down here & you will get no help for a very very long time.
Stopping at one of the places where the
glacier spills down into the road, we broke off chunks of ice and cooled ourselves - ouch, the cold hurts! Truly one of those ecstatic moments this day!
15 minutes, 500 mtrs, and maybe that was in 5 kms or so, that tells you the story of the steep climb, as the road started twisting around, in different height levels. The Bolero was trailing far behind by now since I always believe in taking steep climbs in one go in constant gear as far as possible and I can travel on such ghat sections pretty quick! We reassured ourselves that he was still following us, by peering down onto the roads below to see him roaring forward in hot pursuit.
"Bhoot" Ground
The ground evens out a bit and we descend into a wide valley with water flowing around. This is the
"Bhoot" Ground, says the bull-dozer driver. He points to the steep walls of the mountain around and says that the landslides and water flows here are terrible and every year at least 5-10 workers die here, that is why it is called the valley of ghosts! With the sun dipping down and encircled by mountains, the place is in shadow and exudes an eerie atmosphere, at this high altitude of 4300 mtrs. We stop awhile hoping the Bolero will catch up. Surprisingly, it is pleasant weather, not as cold as one would expect at such a high altitude - although after Ladakh this is far lower than most of the areas we had been travelling the last few days.
Now we could see clouds billowing out of the peaks on the other side, the Chamba Valley section which Glenn had warned us about - he had driven through these sections in total fog. When we told him later about glaciers, he said,
"Glacier? What Glacier?" He did not see any in the heavy foggy conditions he had to drive through. I now realised the meaning of what he and Kesri told me - the journey is very "rocky", we had not seen so many rocks anywhere else. This is total stone country!
At one point, it looks as though the road is getting swallowed up by the glacial snows, but in reality it curves sharply inward & climbs up.
4400 mtrs, The
walls of ice - so much a part of everyone's Ladakh photo album in May/June - surrounded as as we neared the Sach Pass. We loved it, there was a small photo session here. Lalu got some good exercise here running up front to take the photos of both the Scorpio & Bolero in full pose with the ice wall background. It was rock-solid, looks like the sun's rays never reach here, no water flowing on the road.
We reached
Sach Pass 4400 mtrs at 535 pm...............