We are in Padmanabhapuram palace - earlier known as Kalkulam Palace - the centre of power of the princely state of Travancore ( English version of Thiruvithamcode which in turn means region of prosperity ). Descendents of the ancient Chera dynasty.
Though the first palace and the mud fort here is traced to the year 1300, it was only during the reign of Maharaja Marthanda Varma in the 1740s that the present fort and palace were built. He is known as the maker of modern Travancore. He and his successors ruled Travancore from here until the seat of power was shifted to present Thiruvananthapuram.
In 1750s he dedicated the entire kingdom to their deity Lord Sree Padmanabhaswamy. This meant that he, as King and his family become the servants of the lord and ruled the state in the name of Lord Padmanabhaswamy as sacred trustees. All property, assets and wealth belonged to the Lord. Hence, "God's own country"
It was also natural for this palace to be renamed - Padmanabhapuram Palace.
The complex houses 14 palaces and 127 royal rooms built in a way to suit the climate in the region - wooden walls, carved ceilings and pillars, stone
pillars and statues. Though not as grand as palaces in rajasthan, this has a charm of its own.
Lets go inside
The main entrance to the palace
We enter the Kings council chambers, Poomukham. The wood ceiling is adorned with delicately carved flowers
Furniture gifted by chinese and Dutch merchants
We climb a narrow wooden stair and enter the Mantrasala - to seat the King and his council of ministers, Colourful mica decked windows and slanted wooden slats for adequate breeze.
Climbing down to another part of the palace, we enter the large Oottuputa - dining hall to accommodate atleast 1000 people at a time during festive occasions. Wooden beams as long as 30 feet supports the massive hall !
The next building houses the Thai Kottaram - the mother of all palaces which has very intricate wood carvings and ceiling
Thai Kottaram is the oldest of the palaces here.
Ornamental bedstead made of 64 different kinds of medicinal and herbal woods ! Healer to the user !
Said to be gifted by Dutch merchants.
Wooden slats of a different design to facilitate cool vetilation
Looking below at the Navarathri Mandapam ( hall of performaces ) from the higher windows of Thai Kottaram.
Maharaja Martanda Varma's successor, Dharma Raja Karthika Thirunal Rama Varma, who ruled till 1798. Dharma Raja because he actively practiced dharma shastra - providing asylum to thousands of people during the military onslaught of Tipu Sultan.
At the armoury.
Notice the black shining floor throughout the palace - laterite, lime and river sand, egg white, charcoal and burnt coconut shells. Ok, laterite for strength, black to absorb heat, lime for bonding and egg white for shine ? fantastic !!!
Indra Vilasom - for the foreign guests, in European style !
Pathway from one palace to another
We are at the Navarathri mandapam. The only hall constructed of stone in the entire complex. The dance floor has been polished to super shine and is called kannadithara - mirror floor. In Kannada also, kannadi thara / taraha means mirror like !! Similarities ?
This chamber meant for the royal family, could see the dance performances but not seen ! called kilivathil.
We come out of the palace and look back at the imposing hills of western ghats.
For close to two hours, we were lost in Travancore ! An island of Kerala in Tamil Nadu.
Outside the palace gate, we walk towards our car and then we see this shop. wow !
How can you resist going into a shop selling sharbath made of palm fruit on a hot summer afternoon ? ( taati nungu, tadgola ). We drench ourselves with it !
on NH47, Art of cement !
3pm, we enter God's Own Country. And after our briefing at the palace, GOC has more meaning !
Kovalam kalling !
We overshoot the left turn at Balaramapuram towards Kovalam beach and struggle to take a U turn for 20 minutes on the busy highway. Later, we again overshoot the left turn before Leela hotel and end up on the rocky north beach. This time we ask the way to the main beach, drive to the edge and view the frolic of sea.
I was a kid when Kovalam was known to be the most sought after tourist destination in South India. I now wonder, is that this beach ?
Hippy or no hippy, we are heppy to turn back !!
8 kms north, we make no mistake and take the right diversion from the highway and drive straight to KSRTC parking lot, Fort, Thiruvananthapuram.
I was busy trying to divert my wife's attention to beautiful offices on the other side of the road.
Maharaja Swati Tirunal sangeetha sabha. Centre for cultural activities in
the city ? most befitting !
Walking past the huge Padmatheertham , we enter Shree Padmanabhaswamy Temple and are made to sit in the huge mandapam opposite the sanctum. 7pm sharp, with blowing of conches and beating of chenda / chhende / drums, we witness the celestial arathi of the lord. He is barely visible from a single door of the sanctum, so we climb down from the mandapam and walk across the steps to the sanctum - having darshan from all the three doors. We follow with darshan of Sri Yoga narasimha and Sri Krishna within the massive precincts of the temple.
Roadside cartwala hot Nendra banana chips - the best we have tasted anywhere !
Not to leave without a quick glimpse of the city, we drive to the Kowdiar park area, appreciate the posh area, drive back and leave the city after we join the highway near the airport.
Past Attingal, we divert left at Kallambalam and reach the helipad at Varkala cliff. 10pm.
Hotel Sanctum Spring. Helipad, Varkala. No occupancy at all. Rs.3000 room for Rs.1200. 0470 2606993,
www.sanctumspring.com
Next morning, did not expect this ! What does this signify ?