Darjeeling, one of the most popular tourist spot in West Bengal needs no introduction. Countless threads are there on this beautiful place where every detail like transport options, hotels, restaurants, sightseeing etc are present. However this travelogue will be more about the journey of a newbie driver (me) doing his maiden drive to the hills & longest trip so far (1.5k Km)
After driving the Ecosport for nearly 10 months with little over 10k Km on ODO and doing nearby (read 300Km radius) trips which included:
Digha Mython Bakkhali Mandarmani http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...ourists-5.html
i was looking for something around 500km for my next trip. Puri, a popular beach destination fitted in perfectly. With a superb TL by Bhpian AJ-got-BHP, my level of excitement rose even more !
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...i-kolkata.html
I was all set for Puri-Konarak expedition, but alas the temperature soared. Going to a sea side destination did not seem to make a good proposition anymore. So naturally the next option was hills in a bid to escape the heat wave, and when you say hills to a Bong, Darjeeling is the first destination which comes to mind. I had read many superb TL on darjeeling here, like:
Samba's TL
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...-tourists.html
AJ-got-BHP's TL
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...ourists-5.html
BlackPearl's TL
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...ndra-thar.html
psurelia's TL
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...g-gangtok.html
and always wanted to drive there one day. However i was little apprehensive about driving in the hills & the risks involved. Most people i know drive within city & outskirts only. Our last car which was chauffeur driven was never taken outside Calcutta. Reactions from my family & friends after hearing my plan:
Mom: Silent..
Dad: Let him do whatever he likes. I am done with him !
Friend 1: Are you out of your mind ?
Friend 2: You need a hill driver to drive on hills.
Colleague 1: Its too late for getting train reservation. Book a Volvo bus.
Colleague 2: I have studied nearby. I have seen newbie trekker drivers memorizing each and every turn. You need to do the same.
Colleague 3: Its risky to drive home from CTS Bantala office at night. Why dont you take office bus?
But a life without risk is not worth living ! My best friend from college decided to come with me, and suddenly we had a plan. Although it takes minimum of 4-5 days to explore Darjeeling fully, we had been there many times (last year itself with colleagues) and couldn't take much leaves (IT industry, sigh). So decided to make it a quick 3-4 days max outing. I found this website pretty useful:
http://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_000010.htm
The Achilles heel of this trip is the poor condition of NH34, the primary road for going to Siliguri. There are a lot of discussion on this, even a thread:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/route-...g-nh34-35.html
Bhpian Samba and BlackPearl recommended me the following route:
Calcutta-Burdwan-Bolpur-Suri-Massanjore-Deoghar-Banka-Amarpur-Bhagalpur-Purnea-Dalkhola-Siliguri-Darjeeling
Most people in the group follow this route only and Calcutta-Siliguri takes as little as 11 hrs by some of them. Meanwhile Bhpian AJ-got-BHP recommended me to stick to NH34, mainly because i am going there first time and its easy for me to get confused by so many diversions. All navigation softwares like Google maps, Here maps or Sygic mostly stick to NH34 only. Given my poor knowledge of highways and directions I follow GPS mostly in all my trips. Besides my car is the hottest "SUV" now, wont it be able to take all the beating which NH34 throws at it? I went through this guide for hill driving one last time:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...l-driving.html
Bhpian AJ-got-BHP helped me a lot in planning and inspiring me for this. He prepared me a list of pointers which turned out to be very useful.
- It is not a race to reach Siliguri so drive comfortably and take your time instead of rushing up.
- Try and maintain an Average of 55kms/Hour including Short stops.
- Do not accelerate above 100-110 on NH-34, but try to keep minimum speed at 60kmph.
- Target Maldah by 12:00 noon to stop for lunch.
- Keep Tyre Pressure 2-4 points lower than OEM recommended even on hills.
- Beware of State Buses in this route, they do not let u overtake very easily - do not panick, keep to your right and wait for the right time.
- In your initial drive up on the hills, try to follow a local cabbie up and judge their style of driving especially when they corner on bends.
- Thereafter make your own road and you'll be just fine.
- On your way up, keep a watch on the Gear on which you have gone up, try using the same gear on your way down without using much brakes.
- Do not corner sharply.
- Speed is not the key on the hills.
- Do not honk if not required on the hills - use short press.
Initially i planned to start at 7am, but was advised to leave early preferably at 4am to avoid unnecessary traffic. Finally we started at 5am and headed towards Siliguri. It turned out to be a pretty good decision. Last time while going to Mayapur via Krishnanagar we faced a lot of traffic due to trucks & buses but this time we passed Krishnanagar quite early as roads were mostly clear. The condition of the roads are pretty bad as expected. Construction is going on in many stretches to widen it seems. There are some decent stretches with potholes here and there followed by big potholes & boulders where the construction ends. Low GC cars certainly need to be a bit more cautious while navigating these stretches and driving at high speed is a bad idea as that seemingly good stretch may suddenly have a big pothole out of nowhere. I kept myself well hydrated and stopped every couple of hours for a 10-15 mins break. My car had 10k service done recently and only had a puncture repair kit just in case anything goes wrong. Had faith in RSA and the Siliguri ASS in case of any hiccups. Drive was turning out to be slow and pretty boring till we hit Beharampur-Farakka section, possibly the first toll portion of the stretch. And what a lovely stretch it was ! Reached high speeds in no time. Just the kind of adrenaline rush i was waiting for !
Crossing the Farakka dam gave us a nice view of that area. Too bad photography isn't allowed there. After reaching Malda i was thinking of having lunch, but the place seemed to be crowded & full of traffic, so i moved forward. After travelling sometime found a decent road side dhaba where we had lunch.
As we neared Siliguri it started to rain and had to slow down again. Was deciding whether to stay in Bagdogra or Siliguri as the former is closer to Rohini road. But decided to go Siliguri for better lodging options. Finally at 7pm, after 14hrs of travelling we reached Siliguri. Scouted for hotels to spend the night & found one along the road. 800 rs per night seemed reasonable. Checked in and went to a local pub to raise a toast to the day's drive.
Woke up 8am next day and headed towards Darjeeling. Decided to take then Rohini road route upto Kurseong instead of going via Mirik. Crossed the Army camp and reached Rohini toll booth.
Rohini is steeper and the climb has hairpin turns compared to the spiraling road of Hill Cart. I initially fumbled in gearing but after sometime got the hang of it. I had to keep the gear mostly in 1st and 2nd and i was mistakenly up shifting where i shouldn't have. The road seemed narrow when a larger vehicle passed by and had to slow down but apart from that it was a wonderful drive. Never did i feel any lack of confidence or fear, save from the fact that those larger vehicles might brush against mine while navigating through tight portions of the road. In a particular section there was dense fog and visibility was very low. I turned on fog lamps and drove slowly.
After joining Hill Cart road, the drive seemed so boring. I hardly needed to use 1st gear and mostly shuffled between 2-3-4th gear. Captured some nice shots along the way. We reached darjeeling around 2:30-3 hrs from Siliguri.
We haven't booked any hotels in advance, and didn't have much budget either. Most low budget hotels don't come with parking and there are no public parking places in darjeeling. I was recommended the following hotels: Planters Club, Alicevilla & Pradhan. Called them up and only Alicevilla seemed to have room. However parking was not available. After asking police and locals i parked my car opposite to Rajbhavan and tried my luck to find rooms.
I came to know that the only paid parking available is Bigbazaar and it wont be a problem to keep my car in front of Rajbhavan like i had. A friendly taxi driver near mall also allowed me to park beside their cars. After looking at some hotels, went to AliceVilla and this time they allowed us to park in their compound. It was a big relief. Their rates are pretty decent @1950 including taxes and the location is 5 mins from the hub of Darjeeling, the Mall.
http://www.hotelalicevilladarjeeling.in/
After taking some rest, had lunch & explored the city.
Darjeeling Railway Station
Ghoom Railway Station
A walk behind Mall area
Sumptuous dining at Glenary's Attachment 1384408
Next day we woke up at 4am and left for tiger hill. I was advised not to take my car due to traffic and parking problems. Took a shared trekker who normally charges 200rs per person. But it was too foggy and couldn't see sunrise properly. On the way back visited Batasia loop and Dali monastery.
Tiger Hill
Batasia Loop
Dali Monastery
Also tried our luck at rope way, but it was closed. Visited zoo on the way back to hotel.
St. Joseph's College
Darjeeling Zoo 