[gearhead_mait]

With all the beautiful memories we made for the last two weeks, traversing through the remotest corner of Ladakh, it was time to add the icing to the cake. Amritsar has been on our radar for many years, but somehow we were not able to visit. Golden Temple was on our priority list this time, and we were adamant to make that happen.
Plan for the day was to leave Jammu as early as possible and reach Amritsar by 11 am in the morning. We started around 6:15 am from the hotel and drove non-stop till the junction near Malikpur from where the road to the left, commonly referred as the Srinagar-Kanyakumari Highway, goes towards Pathankot. But in order to reach Amritsar, we continued straight from the junction towards Gurdaspur. A few kilometers from the junction we stopped at a dhaba for breakfast. Being the first customer for the dhaba for the day, we were attended with priority and were served with smoking hot Aloo Paratha complemented with a cup of tea. Do we need to reiterate on the taste front, that too in Punjab? Let's say, it gave a great start to an awesome day that lie ahead.

After breakfast we moved on towards Amritsar. The highway was in great shape, passing through wheat fields on both sides. It felt awesome driving through rural Punjab with the early morning sun washing the wheat field with its golden rays. Tractors and RE Bullet's - these comprised the majority of the local vehicles along the route.

As we were nearing Amritsar, Monosree started looking for hotels over the internet. We got a hotel in goIbibo app, with a good review and car parking. Hotel Orbion at Mall road in Amritsar was the one we booked and set the navigation in our MMI device accordingly. We reached Hotel Orbion around 11 am in the morning and found it to be suitably located - away from the chaos, yet just beside a Mall with all kinds of food retail outlets. The parking in front was a free public parking available on first-come-first-served basis. Luckily we got the parking just in front of the hotel and went towards the reception. We showed our booking but we were asked to wait as the cleaning of the room was in progress. After waiting for about 45 minutes, we were allotted our room. But we found the room to be unclean at places and reported immediately. The staff promised us to give us another room but instead of losing more time, we left our luggage at the reception and asked them to place in the room allotted to us, while we went out to visit the places around Amritsar.

We were undecided whether we should take our car or take the local auto rickshaw or which place should we visit first. The gentleman who was the parking attendant cum security was very helpful and he made the itinerary for us. He said taking own car to Golden Temple or Jallianwala Bagh would be stressful due to the chaotic traffic in that region as well the parking is long distance away from both of these POIs. He suggested as it is already late, we should hire a auto rickshaw and visit the Jallianwala Bagh. Then we should have our lunch and visit the Wagah border and be part of the closing ceremony and lastly visit the Golden Temple in the evening. We agreed to this suggested itinerary and he was kind enough to arrange an auto rickshaw for us.

The auto rickshaw driver took us to the old market of Amritsar, famous for clothing and accessories. We stopped at a shop and found the prices to be fair. Monosree bought an item for herself and we quickly wrapped up that episode as we were getting late. The rickshaw driver parked his vehicle at a narrow lane and we walked the rest of the way. It turned to be a wise decision not to bring our car here.

The Jallianwala Bagh and Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib) are located in close proximity, approximately one hundred meters apart. We went inside the Jallianwala Bagh to witness the history of the grievous past. Few sections inside the Bagh was closed for renovation, including the infamous well, but we were able to see the rest of the historical landmark before a crowd of students and visitors entered the place and it became impossible to stay any further.

Entering the city of Amritsar


A selfie enroute Jallianwala Bagh


Entry to Harmandir Sahib (Golden Temple) seen from the gate of Jallianwala Bagh


A place that witnessed one of the worst incident in modern Indian History


Few lines depicting the horrifying incident from the past


The bullet marks still present on the walls, so is the wound in our hearts


The infamous well inside the Jallianwala Bagh


Another building that houses belongings of the martyrs


A memorial built for the martyrs


We asked the rickshaw driver to drop us at the hotel and we decided to take our car to Wagah Border. The auto rickshaw charged us INR 100/- per head and it was justified as he not only dropped us at Jallianwala Bagh but went inside with us and guided us to the best of his capability and then returned us safely to our hotel an hour later. We thanked him for his effort and took our car towards Wagah border. Before starting we asked the gentleman at the parking to keep a parking for us as we would return in about 3-4 hours time.

Wagah border is located 30 kilometers from our hotel and we expected to reach within half and hour. Midway, we stopped at a small road side dhaba for lunch and ordered Missi roti, Amritsari Kulcha and Lassi. The Missi roti was unique and the Lassi was the best we had for some time now. In Punjab, surprises in terms of taste, could come from even unexpected of sources.

After a sumptuous lunch, we went to the Wagah border. There was a nice parking and it was being managed efficiently by volunteers aided by the BSF jawans on duty. Post parking, we were asked to stand in a queue for checking, which was separate for men and women. It was a terribly hot and humid afternoon and it was tough to stand in the queue with so many people breathing on your neck. Another problem was that being the Indo-Pak border, there were mobile signal jammers in place. So, if someone is lost in the chaos, only option in to approach the BSF tourist help centres and make an announcement. Monosree went inside the baggage checking zone before me, and that was when I lost her sight. After checking was complete on the men's side, I could not spot her anywhere. I had to wait for 15 minutes, before I saw Monosree coming out of the security room for women. There was some problem as one of the women standing before Monosree was carrying restricted items thereby causing delay.

There were no more incidents and we were allowed inside the gallery on the Indian side and we spent a nice couple of hours with the various music and performances keeping us entertained, before the flag of both the countries were brought down with pride and the border gate closed. Only problem was the sheer heat and humidity in the area and I was completely drenched in sweat as I left the place.

Amritsari Kulcha with butter


Missi roti


The Lassi


The signboard tells a lot


Flags of both countries flying high


At the Wagah border parking area


Few pictures from the closing ceremony at the Wagah Border











Flags being taken down for the day with respect


Dusk already set in by the time we started on our journey towards Amritsar city. Half an hour later, around 7 pm we reached our hotel. As promised by the parking attendant, he kept one parking spot for my car. We were really thankful to him for all the help he provided. He was grateful enough to ask if he would book us an auto rickshaw till Golden Temple, but we politely denied as he was preparing to leave for his home after duty hours. We didn't want to hold him up for more time for our personal benefit. Also we already went to the area once in the morning, so we were familiar.
We booked an auto rickshaw who dropped us at the crossing, hardly 300 meters walk from the entry to Harmandir Sahib. As we set our foot on the walkway towards the holy shrine, a person came from nowhere and wrapped our heads up with the orange handkerchief with the lettering - "Golden Temple". He didn't ask for any money, but we handed over INR 20/- to him and he disappeared within the crowd without saying a word. We were elated, as it was a dream come true moment for us to enter the Golden Temple.

At the entrance to Harmandir Sahib, there were a few steps we needed to climb to enter the temple premise. At the end of the climb we were stunned by the brilliance that was lying in front of eyes. Surrounded by holy water body all across, beautifully lit up and emitting a dazzling glow on all sides , was the Golden Temple. With the Shabad playing in the background, we lost ourselves for a while. Such was the ambiance!

We walked around the holy shrine before entering the main temple. There was a long queue for entering the main shrine but it was well managed and the behavior of every person in the queue was worth mentioning. Every one waited patiently and helped others. We took the blessing inside the main temple and while moving out, we were offered the trademark 'Prasad' consisting of "Halwa". It couldn't get much better than this in terms of taste, but for the calorie conscious it may raise some eyebrows.

We then went to the langar, where the visitors were provided food as a part of the community service of the Sikh. It was close to 9:30 pm on the clock, and it was wonderful to see people coming in from their respective workplaces, loosening their ties, folding up their sleeves and performing activities by washing utensils, serving food to visitors and even keeping the shoes of visitors in lockers, all with a wide smile on their face. And we complain on reaching our home half an hour late from office, due to traffic!

Inside the Harmandir Sahib


Few pictures of the Golden Temple






The joy of a long cherished dream coming true


The queue in front of the main shrine


Way to the Langar hall


Food was simple in the Langar, but tasteful. The hospitality bowled us over and even before we realized, we had spent more than three hours in the temple. Finally around 10:30 pm we decided to return to our hotel. We hired an auto rickshaw driven by a nice Sikh gentleman with whom we had a nice conversation on the way to our hotel.
We were allotted a new room in the hotel and it was nice and clean. A nice day spent in Amritsar will be cherished forever. Tired we were physically, but mentally we were still fresh. This road trip was turning out to be different than our previous ones, as in this one we were visiting new places on our return journey as well. Earlier it was always a hurried return to home. We were enjoying this trip thoroughly.

Hotel: Fabhotels Hotel Orbion, Mall road, Amritsar
Room Type : Double bed room
Price : INR 1699. Booked via goIbibo app.
Feedback: : Good location away from crowded area. Free public parking in front of hotel. Nice room.

[gearhead_mait]

We woke up late, deliberately so, as our plan was to reach Agra(~700 kms away) and stay there for the night.
We checked out of the hotel around 9:15 am in the morning and stopped for breakfast at Haveli restaurant, just on the outskirt of Amritsar. It was a nice experience Haveli with mouth watering food and great hospitality.

Only three official outlets!


There were takeaway food stalls outside with sitting provision, while the restaurant was inside the building in the front


Nice ambiance inside the restaurant


Delicious parathas!


And mouth watering Lassi and Tea




Presentation of mouth fresheners were innovative as well. Notice the jaggery!


We were full after a delicious breakfast, but we lost around 1.5 hours in the process. We started on our journey but the road till Jalandhar had multiple diversions and we lost quite some there as well. Post Jalandhar, the progress was smooth through the roads known to us. We took the Eastern Peripheral Expressway that bypasses Delhi and by the time were on the Yamuna Expressway, it was already past 7:30 pm. Monosree started looking for a hotel in Agra, as I cruised steadily on one of the best highways in India. We found Hotel Maple Grand in Booking.com app with a very good discount. It had nice reviews and was located close to Taj Mahal along with parking place for our car. We booked it immediately and reached the hotel around 9:30 pm.

We parked our car, completed the check in formalities and took a few luggage into our allotted room. The room was large and clean. We ordered food from the hotel and it was tasty as well. Overall, we were very impressed and recommend this hotel for stay in Agra.

Hotel: Hotel Maple Grand, Agra
Room Type : Double bed room
Price : INR 1399. Booked via Booking.com app
Feedback: : Good location, close to Taj Mahal. Dedicated parking in front of hotel. Clean rooms and good food quality

[gearhead_mait]

We woke up little early as we planned to visit the Taj Mahal before starting on journey to Varanasi for the day. Taj Mahal wasn't a part of our initial plan but we included this at run time.
From our hotel to Taj Mahal it was a mere 3.5 kilometers drive and we reached the parking in no time. The moment we stepped out of our car, we were flocked by tour guides to take their service. We politely denied as we had very less time to explore the intricate details including the history for each section inside the Taj premise. Few of them went away, while a few still lingered on behind us. This continued till we reached the ticket counter where they finally gave up on us. We got the tickets including the visit to the Taj mausoleum and went inside.

There are enough references and descriptions available over the internet regarding Taj Mahal and it would be a failed attempt to even try to describe the masterpiece. One thing I can say though, is every word, every praise, every single review made on the Taj couldn't even get close to the level it belongs!

Few pictures around the masterpiece of an architecture - The Taj Mahal















































We spent close to 2 hours inside the Taj Mahal before starting on our journey towards Varanasi. An otherwise uneventful journey met with a little jerk when the horn of Sherdil stopped working near Etawah. Without a working horn in an Indian highway, with almost 1200 kms left of the journey still left, it was a risk. But luckily, we got help from a road side mechanic shop and they fixed it in 5 mins with one of the connectors replaced. But while they were working on the horn, I noticed minor leakage from the radiator near the joint just below the radiator cap. I knew this was not good, but there was still enough coolant left in the chamber and engine was still operating in optimum temperature. I had to take the chance to move on as it was a Sunday and most of the Hyundai workshops would be closed. I kept on driving, occasionally checking on the leakage whenever we stopped for a break. We continued and reached Hotel Kaushik in Varanasi around 8 pm. Final check on the coolant level revealed it was good and the leakage was minimal. We checked into the hotel and retired for the day.


Hotel: Hotel Kaushik
Room Type : Double bed room
Price : INR 1500/-
Feedback: : Location ideal for transit stay, just beside the highway. Proper parking. Average room.

Next day - Varanasi to Kolkata

Next day, we started around 7 am in the morning and reached our home around 8:30 pm at night. The journey was uneventful and Sherdil brought us back safely across thousands of kilometers, albeit a leaked radiator that needed attention.

After returning from Ladakh with the injured radiator, Sherdil took us to and fro our office for three consecutive days before I managed to get time to visit the workshop on a Saturday. The service adviser looked closely and asked immediate replacement of the radiator. This was the first time in the entire life span of ~7.5 years that any vital component of Sherdil was going to be replaced, that too at 104100 kilometers on the odometer. I didn't question the service adviser even once but silently laughed at our dirty old fellow, a trusted companion in truest sense and thanked him again for being the champion he is.

[gearhead_mait]

I don't quite know what to write in the concluding post. The road trip to Ladakh was our dream, just like many others around the country, even the world. Seven and half years back, when I took the delivery of Sherdil I never thought I would be able to undertake such harsh terrains in the Himalayas, that too in a small hatchback with 814cc 3 cylinder petrol engine and 175 mm ground clearance. Monosree, my wife, supported thoroughly during each journey and helped me with planning and execution of each of our adventurous road trips. Without her support, it would have been impossible to even dream about the places we have actually been too.

But this post is not just about us, its about the journey and how it all started. Many people ask how do we execute such long trips, thousands of kilometers, day after day. For us, the inspiration came from this forum itself, when I was not even a member. But executing an ultra long road trip, say ~6000 km round trip to the Himalayas, is not easy. Its not like someday you wake up, and decide on Ladakh or Spiti and make your move. Road trips are beautiful, probably one of the best modes to explore our Country. But it has its own challenges. There is a lot of difference between driving a day to reach your destination and driving multiple days but still finding yourself far from it. The challenges associated with it quadruples with each day spent behind the steering wheel. The body gets tired, stress factor sets in and there are multiple other issues that can possibly throw tantrum into a set plan. So, the best way that worked for us is to take a small step at a time. Smaller road trips are they key, increasing the distance slowly with each road trip. That way, not only one becomes familiar with the Indian highway, but also with how one's body is adapted with the increase in the time spent behind the steering wheel.

Another key factor, probably the critical of them all, is the car. This is the one you have to rely on during the entire trip. So, the question is - How much capable is it? I will not get into the debate of features like 4WD, ground clearances, electronic aided assists etc. etc. Those are important obviously, one cannot deny that. But they are best referred as features that adds a layer to the capability index of the car. Capability of any car is closely intertwined with the reliability associated with it. What's the use of a 4WD system, if any the other vital components fails midway. In trips like Ladakh or Spiti, that midway could be a desolate mountain pass where the temperature drops below freezing at night with no support whatsoever for hundreds of kilometers. We all would like to avoid such situations, wouldn't we?

So, the statement about one's car should not be -

"My car should be capable enough to take me to, say, point A".

But the correct statement about the car should be :

"My car should be capable enough to bring me back safely from anywhere I go. Be it point A, or Point B or Point C"

And to decide on the point A, B or C, that is appropriate for the car and the driver, one needs to build a strong bonding with the car. From here on comes the reliability factor that grows with time and adds a feather to the capability index that no feature could ever match. And that way the chances of any misadventure would be significantly less.

For me, I clearly know the point till which I can safely travel with Sherdil and I have the confidence that it will bring me back home from there, safely.

Do you?

Till we meet again, adieu from Ladakh!


Total kilometers covered in the Ladakh road trip from Kolkata


Reading on the odometer post completion of the trip


A memento we kept at our home, that would remind of the promises we made to return


Lastly, a video compilation of our entire journey to Ladakh. Watch in full HD setting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQZtfZjA8aM&t=33s

[vb-saan]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section.

That was indeed and epic trip! Thank you for sharing

[gmhossain]

It's an epic. Period.

I haven't been very active in Team-BHP lately but your travelogue forced me to break the slumber and say: hats off to both of you. Best wishes.

[ampere]

Very nice and a very different color of Ladakh! Colorful indeed!

[blackwasp]

Wow, what a trip! Glad too see you enjoy this trip. Loved the fact that you took the Eon to such roads. Last time I went to the mountains, I was amazed at the number of small cars like Altos and 800s that were just going about like it was nothing while the larger cars and SUVs were going at a slower pace.

I think a small car is the best to enjoy the winding mountain roads.

Also, great pics and the superb narration. Awaiting your next trip report.

[surjaonwheelz]

Epic in all sense. I was lost in the pictures, did you do any mid trip service for your 'Lion-heart' car?

It was a great achievement for you three, the couple and the car! You'll have experiences to share for a lifetime. Your point of bringing back from any location reliably is bang on. But hat's off to you to execute such a plan.

Experiences good or bad are a learning, don't worry much about the bad, it's already history!

Wish you many more happy trips in future.

Drive safe,
surjaonwheelz

[ask_017]

Wonderful travelogue with astonishing pictures. Salute to you and your companions dear sir. What you have achieved with your little beauty for sure is an inspiration for all of us. Keep going strong.

[saket77]

What a grand trip! Loved the entire write up and the pictures.
We too took a Delhi/ Agra/ Amritsar trip last year and your pictures at Wagah & Golden Temple brought back some cherished memories.

And I can understand your AMS concern. Though I was not hit by AMS, but during my travel from Pheuntsholing to Thimphu, I felt real car sick in the rear seat of the car. Though the landscapes were beautiful, the only sight I wanted to see was a bed to fall upon. It was a good night's sleep that helped me recover. Take care,

Regards,
Saket

[RajeevSharma]

Thanks for sharing your experience with us in great details. I enjoyed reading it. I would like to thank you for enjoying the journey despite bad experience with HVK Services.

I have in the past used his services for booking hotels and also became member of Club 12. I also sensed that he got little arrogant as the time progressed. It could be that all the knowledge that he has got to his head and he started losing it.

The details and pics provided by you could easily propel you in the direction of becoming a legend yourself.

[Samba]

Take bow Sir! What an awesome travelogue. You three (you, your wife & Sherdil) are an awesome combination. Brilliant pics, plus your writing style perfectly explained the scenario you went through. Rated 5*

Sad to hear about the bad experience with HVK.
Good that your trip was not hampered due to this and you guys have enjoyed to the core.

[Safedriver76]

What an incredible journey, what an awesome travelogue.!! And a what an incredible machine !! You guys make long journeys look so damn easy. I have read many travelogues on this forum of members doing this circuit from all parts of India, in 4WD machines, but your journey stands out among those. You guys simply rock. Pictures are breathtaking and the writeup has been candid. Rating 5* straight away.

Supratim

[gearhead_mait]

Originally Posted by vb-san

That was indeed and epic trip! Thank you for sharing

Thanks vb-san!

Originally Posted by gmhossain

I haven't been very active in Team-BHP lately but your travelogue forced me to break the slumber and say: hats off to both of you.

Thanks gmhossain for your kind words. I feel privileged!

Originally Posted by ampere

Very nice and a very different color of Ladakh! Colorful indeed!

Thanks ampere!

Originally Posted by blackwasp

..I think a small car is the best to enjoy the winding mountain roads.
Also, great pics and the superb narration. Awaiting your next trip report.

Thanks blackwasp! Small car has its own advantages in the mountains, specially the one with short wheelbase and large approach and departure angle.

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

Epic in all sense. I was lost in the pictures, did you do any mid trip service for your 'Lion-heart' car?..
..Drive safe,
surjaonwheelz

Thanks surjaonwheelz! No intermediate service was required. I cleaned up the air filter by myself once we reached Leh city from Manali.

Originally Posted by ask_017

Wonderful travelogue with astonishing pictures. Salute to you and your companions dear sir. What you have achieved with your little beauty for sure is an inspiration for all of us. Keep going strong.

Thanks a lot for your kind words!

Originally Posted by saket77

...
And I can understand your AMS concern. Though I was not hit by AMS, but during my travel from Pheuntsholing to Thimphu, I felt real car sick in the rear seat of the car. Though the landscapes were beautiful, the only sight I wanted to see was a bed to fall upon. It was a good night's sleep that helped me recover.

Yes, I can understand. The Manali to Leh stretch tests the grit of both the man and machine. It has 5 high passes with 4 of them ranging between 15500 feet to 17500 feet. Rohtang is the lowest among them at 13000 feet. On top of that the cold winds blowing over the vast expanse of land, wreck havoc on the already tired bodies. Its tough and not a fun filled, smooth journey! That being said, it is the most scenic road that we have come across!

Originally Posted by RajeevSharma

Thanks for sharing your experience with us in great details. I enjoyed reading it. I would like to thank you for enjoying the journey despite bad experience with HVK Services.

Every trip is a mix of bad and good experiences. We had good experience with HVK back in 2016, but it had degraded quite a bit when we took the service again in 2017 during our Spiti road trip. This time it was worst! Good that we opted out of it at the correct time at Manali itself.

Originally Posted by Samba

Take bow Sir! What an awesome travelogue. You three (you, your wife & Sherdil) are an awesome combination. Brilliant pics, plus your writing style perfectly explained the scenario you went through. Rated 5*

Thanks Samba for your kind words!

Originally Posted by Safedriver76

I have read many travelogues on this forum of members doing this circuit from all parts of India, in 4WD machines, but your journey stands out among those.
Supratim

Thanks Supratim da, I am elated! Every Ladakh travelogue is special. The region is so beautiful that the sweetness spreads easily in the writing!