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Old 16th June 2020, 21:56   #1
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Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Once in awhile to compose, a little travelogue turns out to be smart to communicate your experience. Same for my case here. A year ago, in April, my soul was crying to see snow by driving less. As a resident of Kolkata, Zuluk and North Sikkim are the two spots to get snow by least drive. I picked Zuluk as my goal without reconsidering. To make an introduction, let me state how it occurred. Because of my business, I required to visit neighbouring states frequently. That time I had a work going on in Muzaffarpur and Darbhanga. After checking the google map found the distance between Darbhanga and Siliguri is just 323 km, and the excellent highway gave an added advantage. NH 27, the East-West corridor is the significant ease to reach Siliguri quick.
This time I was joined by my sibling Debjit. As the visit was booked with work, so no question of taking the family with us. Also, we took our Ecosport for the trip as it was a trip in continuation from the workplace and less passenger.

We began from Darbhanga at around 2.30 pm after finishing our work responsibilities. Drove lazily to reach Siliguri by 9.30 pm with a coffee break. Signed up to Hotel Suktara International, just beside the NJP Railway Station. Rooms were satisfactory, yet the management was poor.

Day 1: NJP to Zuluk
Woke up ahead of schedule as we intended to reach Zuluk at a stretch. So taking a quick shower, attempted to top off at the morning breakfast table, however, got upset by the weak service of the Hotel as I expressed before. Their pantry was the vulnerable part. After repeated chasing, the waiter for 45 minutes, we received two plates of Butter toast and Boiled egg. Cooling on what received later started our journey. We left for Zuluk via Kalimpong, Algarah, Reshi, Rongli. The road condition was average with few bad stretches in between Pedong and Reshi.
To Visit Zuluk, one has to take a permit from Rongli.

Papers needed by Indians for Permit is as follows:
1. One Passport Size Photograph
2. Fill and duly signed form which can be availed from counters
3. Voter ID Card. They don't accept the Adhaar Card.
4. Car Papers
5. If the car is in others name, need a permission letter from the owner to drive the vehicle.

A Kolkata Bhpian PriyanCar(Priyankar) helped me with a contact at Rongli to speed up the permit process. It helped me a lot, and we completed the whole process within 30-40 mins start to end. Took some light food before leaving for Zuluk. After stamping the documents at check-post at Padamchen, we reached Zuluk by 4 pm.

Padamchen Check Post
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On the way to Zuluk
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Rested the night at Homestay Snow Lion. Better than a regular place to stay with great food. As it was Offseason, so we got the accommodation without a problem. They charged Rs 1000/ - per head/day with three times food. The homestay is situated in upper Zuluk in the Military enclosure precisely at the beginning of the turn to the Zigzag road.

Zuluk is a little Hamlet lying on the Hills of East Sikkim at the height of 10000 ft above sea level. A population might be hardly 900-1000 people. Virtually a Transit point of Indian Army now. In years ago it was the travel route of traders among India and Tibet through Silk route. The stunning Zigzag made by man is one of the original charms. View on Mt Kanchendzonga from Thambi viewpoint is additionally an attractive pleasure for the traveller.

Snow Lion Homestay
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Day 2: Silk Route drive
It was the end of April, so we made sure to get a decent amount of snow on the valley and some on-road too. Our first stop was Thambi Viewpoint to cool our eyes on Mt Kanchendzonga. The perspective on the twisted road was the stunning view from Thambi. Thambi is situated at an altitude of 11200 ft above sea level. One can stay at Lungthung to get a perfect picture of first sunrays on Mt Kanchendzonga early in the morning from Thambi viewpoint which is barely a 500m walking from the nearest homestay.

The Mighty Mt Kanchendzonga
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The Range from Thambi View Point
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Our Ecosport enjoying the view
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The famous Zigzag Road
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I have visited Zuluk in March'16 however sad to retreat from Gnathang Valley because of heavy snowfall and road blockade. Visited Gnathang Valley last time. Situated at the height of 12700 ft above sea level is one of the remote Tibetian habitats. From January to April the valley is visible as a white Cloth of snow. One can stay there in homestays if wished.

Few Pictures from the Valley
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Halted for few moments to appreciate and feel the nature before continuing to Old Baba Mandir. There is a history attached to the Baba Mandir as the temple was built to pay tribute to Harbhajan Singh, a soldier of Indian Army. The temple is kept up by the Indian Army. It was an incredible experience to visit a temple to offer gratitude to a military officer who martyred on the job at that freezing height. Saw the Bunker kept up properly by the army officers. After giving respect to the incredible soul, we left for Kupup.

Old Baba Mandir
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Snow and Mist all over near Baba Mandir
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Continued....

Last edited by vb-saan : 17th June 2020 at 06:43. Reason: Formatting
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Old 16th June 2020, 22:12   #2
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re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Kupup is at the height of 13900 ft. As the climate was deteriorating gradually, without sitting around casually, we rushed to the next stop. Missed the Kupup lake because of high fog and reached Kupup driving through the haze view of the snow-covered valley.

Beyond Baba Mandir towards Kupup
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A small clip of drive beyond Old Baba Mandir


As Nathula pass was closed for visitors that day, so the permit was denied to us. On the way to Tsongmo, we stopped at the second Baba Mandir after Nathula for some glimpses and departed soon to Tsongmo Lake. This temple is also built-in modern days to pay homage to the great soul, and it is also a significant tourist point for people visiting from Gangtok to Nathula.
The New Baba Mandir
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Took a few snaps in the hazy atmosphere of Tsongmo Lake and left for Gangtok without burning through any additional time in the crowded surroundings of Tsongmo lake.
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From the start, we were in a predicament whether to remain in Gangtok or continue further. Just before entering Gangtok, we hurled our minds and chose to reach Siliguri to take a long rest for the night. That was the slip-up we made because we needed to battle with the dreadful traffic on NH 34 on the following day to return venture towards home at Kolkata. It would have been excellent decision to stay at Gangtok and start the next morning to drive overnight in a much clear-cut and traffic-free NH 34. Our stay at Hotel Malisca was a delightful memory with a beautiful supper served at their restaurant.

Day 3:Siliguri to Kolkata
Next day we started early morning towards Kolkata. Sailed smoothly till Raigunj to have a brilliant breakfast of Luchi, sabzi and sweet at Raigunj Tourist Lodge. The first experience came at Malda after bypass road due to traffic jam which proceeded till Farakka approach road to reach comparatively free Farakka bridge. Later faced a genuine clog on SH 7 close to Sherpur. As SH 7 is a two-lane carriageway, there is consistently an opportunity of congested driving conditions if any vehicles breakdown due to any mechanical fault by chance. The road got stalled as a lorry got stuck due to some mechanical failure. By no other option, we lined our way following other cars through village lanes to link SH 7 again at Khargram. Later drove quickly till the famous blockage at Dankuni Toll. By some tossing between vehicles to pass through the Toll plaza, we arrived our home safely.

Though this trip was to taste the feel of snow by reaching soon, I still have a plan to revisit this part of East Sikkim to get the feel of other beautiful places staying in nearby homestays.

Last edited by vb-saan : 17th June 2020 at 06:45. Reason: Formatting
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Old 17th June 2020, 06:41   #3
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re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Thread moved from Assembly Line to the Travelogues section. Thank you for sharing
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Old 17th June 2020, 11:21   #4
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Nice pics Travelmania. Himalayas over the weekend. How cool is that!
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Old 17th June 2020, 11:47   #5
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Lovely crisp travelogue & excellent pictures dada. Another blockbuster travelogue from your end. Rated well deserved 5*. Thank's a lot for sharing. It brought back memories of our silk route drive. Sharing a few pictures.

Zuluk
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Gnathang Valley
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My Beast
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The convoy at Changu lake
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Changu Lake
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Last edited by Fordlover88 : 17th June 2020 at 11:53.
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Old 17th June 2020, 13:46   #6
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Awesome Pictures.
Very nicely described. Made me nostalgic of my trip to Old Silk Route with my Figo.
Two Snaps from my trip 3 years back.
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really a memorable trip.
Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim-fb_img_1563244869735.jpg
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Old 17th June 2020, 15:55   #7
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

You have refreshed and brought back good memories of the countless drives I had on this route many years back. The twisty roads, mist, weather, scenery, and the flora and fauna continuously keeps the driver engaged. The landscape changes dramatically after you drive atop the Zuluk Loops and there you see only Rhododendron flowers and no trees.

Those days the Kupup market was also quite active and goods from across border were sold there. I had even purchased a Pure Lhasa Apso pup from that village.

Trivia - Do notice packaged drinking water bottles at the shrine. There is a lot of faith among the tourists who pay obeisance at the shrine and they keep water bottles at the temple with the name of their elders/family members who are suffering some chronic ailments like knee, joint pains etc. The devotees visit the shrine again after few days and get the water bottles back and offer the water to their parents/well wishers. It is widely believed that it cures and provides them relief and they get well.

Last edited by amsidhu : 17th June 2020 at 16:20. Reason: Submitted incomplete post while typing erroneously. Thanks.
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Old 17th June 2020, 17:26   #8
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

[quote]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordlover88 View Post
Lovely crisp travelogue & excellent pictures dada. Another blockbuster travelogue from your end. Rated well deserved 5*. Thank's a lot for sharing. It brought back memories of our silk route drive.
Thanks for appreciating and rating the writeup and pictures. Your snaps added an edge more to my effort.

Last edited by Travelmania : 17th June 2020 at 17:33.
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Old 17th June 2020, 17:33   #9
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

[quote]
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVK Rider View Post
Awesome Pictures.
Very nicely described. Made me nostalgic of my trip to Old Silk Route with my Figo.
Thanks for your kind words. Old Silk Route is always a special affair for roaders like us. Your Figo is giving a beautiful attitude amid nature.
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Old 17th June 2020, 17:52   #10
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Quote:
Originally Posted by amsidhu View Post
You have refreshed and brought back good memories of the countless drives I had on this route many years back. The twisty roads, mist, weather, scenery, and the flora and fauna continuously keeps the driver engaged. The landscape changes dramatically after you drive atop the Zuluk Loops and there you see only Rhododendron flowers and no trees.
Thanks and Perfectly said by you. The all-encompassing perspective caused me to feel grand at that point of time. The View of Mt Kanchendzonga is awesome

Quote:
Those days the Kupup market was also quite active and goods from across border were sold there. I had even purchased a Pure Lhasa Apso pup from that village
.
As the weather was deteriorating, we didn't pause for a long time at Kupup. But should say Kupup is a deserving stop in this sector for its natural sights.

Last edited by benbsb29 : 20th December 2021 at 08:33. Reason: Fixed broken quote tag.
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Old 17th June 2020, 20:06   #11
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Lovely write up backed with perfect shots. In times of lockdowns this comes as fresh air.
Northeast is one place which is high on my wishlist.
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Old 17th June 2020, 21:13   #12
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Wow! Yet another lovely travelogue from you. Your Ecosport looks awesome in this terrain. Rated 5*.

Throwback from our Zuluk trip in 2016.

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Old 18th June 2020, 10:46   #13
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Excellent travelogue with amazing photographs. Thanks for Sharing.
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Old 18th June 2020, 15:29   #14
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Good travelogue with beautiful capture of memories through photos. The zigzag road from one point looks bluish while all other surroundings were as they supposed to be. Looks amazing. About timing I was wondering how did you manage to do a long travel during this country wide Covid situation. Later observed in one of your photos it was done in Apr, 2019. Anyways, keep up the good work.

Last edited by topse : 18th June 2020 at 15:43.
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Old 19th June 2020, 22:14   #15
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Re: Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim

Wonderful to see you in this forum Abhijit da!
Lovely travelogue which brought back a lot of memories.

A road trip to Sikkim is indeed one of kind of experience and every picture in this travelogue underlines the fact!

One of my friend went in his motorcycle in January to Rongli, but was denied the permit for Silk Route with the reason cited being the permits are issued only from Gangtok side. I thought there could be some change in the process, as I was issued the permit from Rongli itself in 2015. But your travelogue made me think that it could be for two wheelers only. Is it, do you know?

Just one picture from my road trip in October 2015. Quite a contrast from different seasons.

The beautiful Tukla Valley!
Falling in love with Zuluk, Sikkim-img_5794.jpg
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