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Old 12th April 2023, 21:59   #1
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Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

We made it. Us at Bhutan between Thimpu and Punakha
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-bhutan.jpg

Ever since my riding buddies did a Bhutan – Kerala round trip on their Harleys in 2016 the itch to ride to Bhutan from Kerala along with my better half on our Harley DYNA Super Glide Custom was on my mind. The opportunity presented itself in 2019. We both are employed in the Middle East and had to coordinate our leaves accordingly. By end 2018 we started preparations for the big ride

My riding buddies earlier had coordinated their trip through Mr Sangay of Dainty Tours and Travels in Phuentsholing, Bhutan and we too followed the same path. All arrangements were made and then COVID stuck.
Back in Dubai my riding was confined to the roads of Dubai on my V-Storm 1000. In 2021 I sold my V-Storm and brought a 2018 model BMW GS 1200 with 5K on the clock. This motorcycle was anything other than I had ridden so far. In a course of few months, I ended up buying a pair of Moskomoto saddle bags and a set of GIVI Trekker Aluminum panniers and GIVI Aluminum top box.

Meanwhile by Mid-August 2022 we did a USA west coast -Pacific Highway ride from San Francisco to Sandiego roundtrip, on a rented BMW GSA 1200. Rental was from Riders-share.com a platform for bike owners to advertise their motorcycle on rent. An Amazing experience it was.
After riding my BMW GS for about one year I started looking for a used BMW GSA in Kerala and in the process sold of my motorcycle in Dubai to have funds in hand.

Since its difficult for used BMW GSA’s to come by in Kerala my search led me to Bike Shop Racing a used motorcycle dealer in Mumbai. It was a fantastic experience and on my hands was a BMW GSA 1200, 2018 with less than 10K on the Odometer. I flew down to Mumbai in November 2022 did the paperwork, rode the bike down to my native place in Kochi. Beginning February, I went to Kerala to register the motorcycle in my state. On return the motorcycle was left at EVM Motorrad Cochin for service and tire change.
The initial plan was to use the Harley DYNA super glide for the trip but the recent rides on the GSA tilted the choice in favor of the BMW. Below are the photos of both these bikes.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-harley.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-gsa.jpg

We were constantly in touch with our tour agents and came to know on the latest developments in Bhutan Tourism. Bhutan was one of the last countries to open its borders to tourism post covid. Riders intending to visit Bhutan on their own Motorcycle may note these new requirements for entry into Bhutan as of March 2023.

 A Bhutanese government approved guide is mandatory to accompany you. Tourists cannot travel without a guide. We had to arrange a Taxi and driver for the guide since we were on a motorcycle.
 We used our passports to enter Bhutan. At the immigration Indians, Sri Lankans and Maldives citizens must pay a sustainability fee of Rupees 1200/ head/ day of stay in Bhutan. For all other nationalities USD 250/ Day must be paid as sustainability fees.
 Proof of hotel reservations is required, which your tour operator will arrange. All hotels are three star and above.
 Travel insurance- You may get your own travel insurance; else the tour operator can arrange it for you.
 Preferable to have the motorcycle in your name. In case you are using a Motorcycle that is not in your name you will need an authorization letter from the owner permitting you to ride in Bhutan.
 Original Registration of Vehicle, Valid insurance, Pollution control Certificate (Pollution Certificate can be done in Bhutan)
 Valid Indian Driving license.
 Rupees 4500/ Night of Stay in Bhutan for Motorcycle. To be paid in cash at Regional Transport office Phuentsholing.
 These documents have to be submitted to the RTO in Bhutan who will issue the Permit after payment of fees.
 Indian Currency is accepted, exchange rate is 1:1

Since my wife had limited leave it was decided that she will join me in Kolkata and return from Paro Airport in Bhutan. I Left for Kochi on February 24th picked up my Motorcycle from service Centre and rode home. Had few days to prepare my motorcycle for the ride. These were the add-ons that I had on the stock motorcycle.

 Quad Lock mobile handlebar holder with antivibration
 12 Volt direct connection from battery
 GIVI Trekker out back Aluminum Panniers with GIVI Aluminum top Box
 Headlight guard
 Pannier liner bags for all three Aluminum boxes( brought from Ali Express)

Helmets; Airoh Carbon Commander and AGV, Helmet comms – Packtalk bold. For Photography three Sony Action cameras, Insta 360, DJI Spark (Drones are permitted in Bhutan with special approvals. Obtaining approvals takes time, and we were not aware of this requirement and hence the drone remained in our bags) and one dedicated Samsung S22 ultra for photography.

Other than all the protective gear, Raincoats and boot covers we also carried essential tools, Puncture repair kit, compact rechargeable air compressor, jump starter (both are life savers), Cable ties, straps, bungee chords
On 26th February the day before the big day GSA’s belly was filed up with regular petrol. Tried to go a bit early to bed but excitement is over the roof and sleep came it after Midnight.

Day 1 - 27th February 2023 - Cochin to Nellore ( Andhra Pradesh) - 820 Kms

Got up around 3:00 Hrs. Motorcycle was all prepped up and fully loaded. Left home at 4:00 Hrs. Traffic was sparse, and I reached close to Salem by 9:00 Hrs. Had breakfast (Tamil Nādu is a food paradise for travelers, you get fresh vegetarian food on highways), a short stop over for a quick snap in front of my wife’s college where she studied twenty five years ago

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-bfast-tamil-nadu.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-wife-college.jpg

After Salem Google map was taking me out of National highway on to state highways. little that I realized my maps were set to avoid tolls. Andhra Pradesh was super-hot, and my cooling vest came in handy. Reached Nellore at around 19:00 Hrs. Checked in at Hotel Minerva Grand and crashed for the night. For safe keeping of motorcycle the hotel has a basement parking.
As a rule, I wash my Riding gear every night and hang it out to dry in the room. At times it doesn’t fully dry out, but the dry wind next morning takes care of it.
My target was to cover around 700 Kms a day but the GSA is a mile muncher. It eats mile after mile in a very relaxed manner and I was covering large distances in no time. Also setting the vehicle on cruise control at times helps you to relax your arms.

Day 2 - 28th February 2023 – Nellore to Bhubaneswar (Orissa) – 1075 Kms

Left Hotel Minerva at around 7:00 Hrs. Got onto NH16 and the GSA was munching mile after mile without any drama. Guava sellers are dime a dozen on the highway during this season (certainly recommended).
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-andhra.jpg

I had a short detour on seeing a lake and took a drone Video.
This is a snap shot from the drone video you can see me as a speck in the middle of the photo
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-drone.jpg

One of my rules is to find a bed before sunset and I try not to ride in the night. However, hotels on the highway were fully booked and I ended up reaching Bhubaneshwar city at around 20:00 hrs. Adding to my woes were the road works and lack of highway lights. Found a hotel on the highway and crashed for the night. If it was not for the GSA covering one thousand odd kilometers a day would have been a daunting task.

Day 3 - 01st March 2023 –Bhubaneswar to Kolkata (West Bengal) – 452 Kms.

in front of hotel ready for the day's ride

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-bhubaneshwar.jpg

Kolkata was 400 odd kms away and decided to have more stops on the way. West Bengal has numerous Paddy fields on either side of the highway, which reminded me of my native place in Kerala. Took a detour from highway on to an unpaved road that had paddy field on either side. My drone has a follow me function and took a video with it.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-paddy.jpg


Every where I stopped people wanted to know the price, Mileage and my you tube channel details ( I don't have one so far). Few wanted to sit on the motorcycle and rev it which I obliged.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-trying-motorcycle-1.jpg
After numerous stops reached Kolkata at around 16:00 Hrs. Since my wife was flying to Kolkata, I checked in to Holiday inn which is very close to the airport.

Day 4 & 5 - 02nd March and 3rd March –Kolkata – 4 Kms.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-trying-motorcycle-2.jpg

My wife was reaching on 3rd March, and I had enough time to relax at the hotel. All her riding gear and clothes were already with me, and she was traveling with a small backpack. Kolkata is a very busy place with a cacophony of horns on the road at all times. The street food close to my hotel was super delicious. Tried Sondesh, Gulabjamun, Rasgulla, Rasmali ,Roti and Aloo from street vendors.
in Kolkata there are numerous Ambassador Taxis. These are seldom seen in Kerala. Felt very nostalgic which reminded me of my Dad in his Mark 2,3 and 4 Amby. A whole lot of battery operated rickshaws were also plying on the roads.

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-ambassador.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-electric-rikshaws.jpg

Picked up my wife from Kolkata Airport on 3rd morning and since we were riding only on 4th morning, we decided to explore Kolkata for the day. It was prudent not to roam around the city on a motorcycle due to the oppressing heat and traffic. The hotel arranged for us a cab for city tour. She changed to a Kolkata saree true to the spirit of the city and in Kolkata we visited the Victoria palace, India museum, Princep Ghat, Hoogly river, St Paul's Cathedral, Howrah bridge and the Birla planetarium.

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-priceps.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-planetareium.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-victoria.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-st-pauls-cathedreal.jpg


By evening we reached the hotel had dinner, packed our stuff, ready to leave the next day.

Day 6 - 4th March Kolkata to Siliguri ( West Bengal) – 569 Kms

Our itinerary in Bhutan was from 6th March and we had two days to reach Phuentsholing which was 700 odd kilometers from Calcutta and a day of hard riding could reach us to Jaigon the border town to Bhutan. After a filling breakfast at Holiday inn, we left at around 7:30 for Siliguri. Enroute, we had a slight detour to Murshidabad. A prominent place in Indian history. The Hazarduari palace and museum were a feast for the eyes, and one could spend the entire day wandering inside the museum learning regional history.

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-museum.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-hazari1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-hazari2.jpg
Our motorcycle was kept for safe keeping at a small mandir and a small chit chat for directions with the watchman revealed that we could take our motorcycle on a bamboo ferry and cross the Hooghly River which could save us some time. We crossed the river through the Lalbagh ferry ghat. While riding the motorcycle on to the bamboo ferry I lost my balance would have fallen into the river if not for the timely presence of a local gentleman who supported the motorcycle.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-crossing.jpg

On the way to Malda we passed a big water body- Farakka barrage- a barrage across river Ganga which is 18kms from Bangladesh border. This freshwater barrage is largest in India. The roads leading to Siliguri was proving to be treacherous due to large number of trucks and highway expansion works, we decided to stop over in Siliguri on 4th March. Checked into Marriot Siliguri at around 20:00 hrs and after a sumptuous dinner rested for the night.

Day 7- 5th March Siliguri to Jaigon, (West Bengal) Via Darjeeling- 250 Kms
Had a filling breakfast and left for Darjeeling at around 8:00 Hrs. Darjeeling is only 60 odd kilometers from Siliguri. Darjeeling was never on the cards, and we decided to have a very quick visit. The ride took us through hairpins after hairpins, which was a welcome change. At last, we started to see mountains and soon the mercury dropped to a very pleasant twenties. This was our first trip to Darjeeling, streets were all crowded with tourists and in few hours, we managed to visit the Zoology Park and Mountaineering Institute.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-darj.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-darje-2.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-darjeeling.jpg
Since our destination was Jaigon for the day we did not have the liberty to explore more in Darjeeling. By midday we left for Jaigon. The route took us through dense forest area. For a south Indian anything below 20 degrees is cold and the heated grips of the Motorcycle came in very handy. We crossed the coronation bridge, stopped for a few photographs.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-coronation.jpg

Cool weather and good roads and the scenic landscape made riding a breeze. Our plan was to reach Jaigon by late evening however it was getting very dark, and we decided to call it a day and checked in to Hotel Dooars Heritage which was right beside the highway a few kilometers before Jaigon. After the daily ritual of washing all the riding gear a hot bath and sumptuous Momos from the kitchen it was bedtime.
A painting taken at a restaurant in Kolkata to end the first leg of our ride on the Indian side.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-painting-restaurant.jpg
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Old 13th April 2023, 02:13   #2
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Re: Cochin- Bhutan-Cochin -My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200- A 6700 Kms ride to the Dragon Country

Day 8 - 6th March Jaigon – Phuentsholing -Thimpu – 154 Kms

The big day arrived. Our tour operator Mr Sangay the owner of Dainty tours and travels met us at the India- Bhutan border Post at 10:00 Hrs. We directly rode into Phuensholing. There was a Covid protocol still prevailing during our visit which meant that I had to ride into Bhutan without a pillion. Hence my wife walked into Bhutan, and I rode into Bhutan from the border security post. The border security personnel on either side carried out a customary glance on the Passports and let us through.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-entry-port.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-welcome-bhutan.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-guide-office.jpg

The moment you enter Bhutan what strikes you the most is a complete absence of Honking. More on that later. After the customary introduction with our Bhutanese guides Mr Thinley and Mr Lobsang, we walked to the immigration office to get our passports stamped. Passport stamping was a breeze.
We then followed our guide team to the RTO office in Phuensholing where the motorcycle route permit was done, the details of which I have mentioned earlier. Around 12:00 hrs we were ready to start our first leg of our Journey in Bhutan.
Our first destination was Thimpu the capital city and we set off with our guide and car in front and us on trail. Our guide Thinley gave us directions to each place of interest and moved ahead. Enroute, we visited the Buddha Point, Trashicode Dzong

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-img20230412wa0090.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-img20230412wa0091.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-img20230412wa0093.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-img20230412wa0096.jpg

Weather advisory had predicted clear skies for the day however we came to know that Bhutanese weather is very unpredictable. The rain started off as a drizzle. We stopped and we wore our raincoats and boot covers. Heavy thunderstorms followed and temperature plummeted to 4 Deg C on the display and then the hailstorm started. The pinlock visor was very effective and it prevented fogging on my helmet visor. We were just in time to stop at a roadside hotel where we had authentic Bhutanese dried beef and soup. Our guide advised us to stay put and after an hour or so the rain down pour changed to a trickle.

in our rain gear

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-water-fall.jpg

We refueled at a Hindustan Petroleum outlet. Fuel cost was Rs 82/ Litre
The initial impression of Bhutan is of awe. All the people that we met during the day had smiles on their faces. Riding in Bhutan is an eye opener for the visitors from the sub-continent. The absence of honking, adherence to traffic rules, only exception would be the Public Transport mini buses plying between Phuensholing and Thimpu aptly called the Vomit comets. It was news to me that Thimpu is the only capital in the world without Traffic signals. Most intersections are unmanned, and I found a round-about with a traffic policeman who had the easiest of jobs.
Reached Hotel Willows a 3 Star hotel at 18:00 Hrs. The hotel with a multicuisine restaurant is a new one in the heart Thimpu. Excellent staff and Amenities.

Day 9 - 7th March Thimpu City Tour - 0 Kms

Since all the tourist attractions at Thimphu was very close together, we decided to leave our motorcycle at the hotel and take the tour in our guide’s car. Thimphu, the capital city is on the banks of river Wang Chu and home to the Bhutanese Royal Family. The outside temperature was a comfy 10 Deg c and we left the hotel around 9:00 hrs. Travelling with our Bhutanese guide had its own benefits, the best being a running commentary on the local history. Our first stop was the Buddha point around six kilometres away from Thimphu where a 169 feet statue of Lord Buddha which was made in Korea transported to Thimpu and assembled here. The statue overlooks the Thimphu valley.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-buddha-1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-buddha-2.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-buddha-3.jpg


Our Next stop was the Institute of Zorig Chusum where students learn the thirteen arts and crafts like Wood working and Wood Carving, Knitting, Painting, Clay modelling, casting, tailoring etc.
The story of Elephant Monkey and Rabbit is every. This figure is in front of the Craft institute.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-monkey.jpg

Close by was the Motithang Taking Preserve where we saw the national animal of Bhutan called the Takin which looks like a combination of Goat head and the body of an ox and there is an interesting story to it too.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-animal.jpg

Our next stop was the Folk heritage Museum Founded by Her Majesty the Queen Mother Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, the museum portrays the lifestyle of a middle -class family in the Thimpu valley in the olden days. Here is where we came across the local brew called Ara a mild brew being sold in recycled pet bottles. We then continued our journey to Thangtong Dewachen Duthop Buddhist monastery run by nuns where we paid our respects. It was nearing midday when we reached the Jungshi paper factory where traditional paper called Deh-so is made. This was a fascinating experience where paper is made from the bark of Daphne bush. This physically demanding and skilful work involved soaking and boiling the bark, crushing, boiling, pulping, layering, and drying. We could move around the factory while workers were going through the processes. A shop besides sells handmade paper and paper products from where we brought few sheets of paper. It’s amazing to see this traditional skill still being kept alive.
We then went to the city centre and had a sumptuous Bhutanese lunch.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-city-center.jpg

Our next stop was the archery field where a private archery competition was going on. It was amazing to see Archers regularly hitting the target at kept at a distance of 120 meters with their traditional bow and arrow.
We headed down to the farmers market where Bhutanese produce was being sold. Here villagers from the valley and nearby places gather to sell their agricultural products.
Next, we visited the plethora of souvenir shops lined along the street. The first shop that we entered had Bhutanese traditional dress on rent. These centuries old dress the Gho, a knee length belted robe of hard fabric worn with white cuffs for men and the Kira, a wraparound dress for women is very comfortable to wear. We wore these and had a memorable time walking down the streets of Thimpu.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-dress-1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-dress-2.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-dress-3.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-dress-4.jpg
Wherever we visited the walls were decorated with photos of Bhutan’s dashing young King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck and his Queen. The king is respected and admired by all alike. A monarch with a mission and he is credited with modernising the Dragon nation.
It was getting late in the evening, and we made our way to the hotel. All together it was an amazing day of discovery and fun.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-img20230412wa0146.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-img20230412wa0149.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-img20230412wa0151.jpg
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Old 13th April 2023, 21:05   #3
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re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Day 10 - 8th March Thimphu- Dochu La ( La - means mountain pass )-Punakha - 74 Kms
After breakfast we left hotel Willows at around 9:30 Hrs on our motorcycle with our tour guide leading on their car. The Motorcycle display was showing a bit less than ideal tire pressure. My rechargeable compact air compressor came in handy.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-tire-pressure.jpg

Our first stop was the Dochu La which is around 3100 MSL. There are 108 Chortens at Dochu La. These Chortens were built by the Queen Mother Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck as a penance for the life lost during war in southern Bhutan. We did a customary ride around the chortens from the left in odd numbers as symbol of respect. At Dochu La you can spend some time watching the beautiful scenery. Our guide mentioned that during good weather one can see the Himalayan ranges from here.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-108-1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-108-2.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-108-3.jpg

Me being an animal lover never let go a chance to get up and personal with these beautiful beings.

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-animal-love-1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-animal-love-3.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-animal-love-4.jpg
Our next destination was the Chime Lhakhang a Buddhist Monastery built in 1499 atop a hill in Punakha. The site was blessed by Lama Kunley who is known as the “Divine Madman” for his unorthodox ways of teaching Buddhism. There is ample car parking facility at the mountain base and all visitors have to pay an entry fee. The path to the carpark is lined with shops selling souvenirs.

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-monastry.jpg

Punakha was a thirty-minute ride from there and we reached in time for lunch at a local restaurant.
After lunch we rode to Punakha Dzong built in 1637-38 by Zhabdrung Namgyal a great Buddhist leader who is also known as the Bearded Lama. This Dzong stands Majestically at the Junction of two rivers called the Pho Chu and Mo Chu. After paying entry fees we had to pass a bridge to reach the Dzong. The river was brimming with fishe and our guide reminded us that they do not catch fishes. The Dzong has amazing architecture and its worthwhile spending some time there. In India there is a practice of women covering their heads while entering religious places. However, this practice is disrespectful in Bhutan.

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-punakha-monastry-1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-punakha-monastry-2.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-punakha-monastry-4.jpg
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Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-punakha-monastry-11.jpg
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Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-punakha-monastry-12.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-punakha-monastry-13.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-punakha-monastry-14.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-img20230412wa0177.jpg

We then rode to the 520 foot long Punakha Suspension bridge that offers some spectacular view of the river and valley. Walking across the bridge is quite a thrilling experience, a minor panic attack ensures as one reaches the middle when the bridge sways due to winds.

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-suspension-bridge-1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-suspension-bridge-2.jpg

We then moved to our hotel River Valley in Punakha which overlooks the river.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-hotel.jpg

The hotel has large rooms and windows that open to the beautiful view of river below. Dinner was served in our rooms and after the customary washing and hanging to dry our riding gear we had a good night’s sleep.
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Old 13th April 2023, 21:32   #4
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re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Day 11- 9th March Punakha – Paro - 120 Kms.
We rose early and walked down to the riverbank from our hotel. It was a pleasant 10 degrees outside.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-river-view-1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-river-view-2.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-river-view-3.jpg

Motorcycle in front of hotel with the 360 deg camera sticking out
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-gsa-360.jpg

After a leisurely walk we returned to the hotel and packed up and left for the Tachog Lhakhang chain link suspension bridge built by Thangtong Gyalpo who was known as the Iron Bridge Maker. Built in the 15th Century the bridge across Paro River was washed away in 1969 due to flood and in 2005 a new bridge was built close to the old bridge using the remaining 550 year old metal links. A modern suspension bridge constructed in the 1970’s stands next to the reconstructed bridge. We walked across the new bridge. Once can touch these centuries old metal links believed to have been mined locally and it’s an overwhelming feeling to lay hands upon such a historical piece of metallurgy.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-iron-bridge-6.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-iron-bridge-7.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-iron-bridge-8.jpg

By noon we reached Paro town where we had dumplings from a local restaurant and moved to the National Museum of Bhutan housing extensive collection of Bhutanese art covering more than 1500 years of Bhutanese culture. This major attraction is not to be missed and can take you around three hours for a detailed tour.

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-2.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-4.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-5.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-6.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-7.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-8.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-9.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-10.jpg

Paro town has an International Airport. A Birds eye-view of the Airport
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-3.jpg
We then checked in to Hotel Gawling which was a five-minute drive from Paro town.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-bike-front-hotel.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-guide-hotel.jpg

Day 12 10th March - Paro – 0 Kms

Tiger’s Nest Monastery at Paro is a must-see place for any traveler to Bhutan and this was the last destination of our trip. The monastery is about 3000 MSL and perched on an almost vertical cliff.
Our drive from the hotel Gawling in Paro to the base of Tiger’s nest took us about 20 Minutes. After paying entry fee of 2000nu per head we embarked on our journey to the top by foot. For the uninitiated trekkers like us it proved to be a daunting task to walk up the mountain path. As for our guide who accompanied us to the top it was a walk in the park. He does this climb at least once a week with tourists. Midway there is a restaurant where food and drinks are available. We took about four hours to reach the top with frequent stops and passed a beautiful water fall on the way. From the top a breath-taking view of Paro valley fills your senses.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-tiger-1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-tiger-2.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-tiger-3.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-tiger-4.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-tiger-5.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-tiger-6.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-tiger-7.jpg

Red Rhododendrons the national flower of Bhutan could be seen as we passed around 2000 meters. The flowers have a different colors depending on the altitude of the trees. We saw red and white .
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-rhodendrum-1.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-rhodendrum-2.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-rhodendrum.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-img20230412wa0188.jpg
The monastery at top has a lot of myth and history to offer. We spend about one hour on top and resumed our descent. Descent was fairly easy, and we took about two hours to reach the base and what an achievement it was for us. We reached the hotel at around 18:00 hrs and organized for the next day departure from Bhutan
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Old 13th April 2023, 21:48   #5
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re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Day 13 to day 16 -11th to 14th March Paro – Chennai – Cochin - 3212 Kms
Paro Airport is a 20-minute ride from our hotel. My wife’s flight was at 10:30 Hrs, dropped her at 8:00 Hrs. View from the Aircraft

Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-view-airplane.jpg

Me along with our guides left for Phuentsholing which was 142 kms away. We reached Phuentsholing at around Noon and after completion exit formalities with immigration it was adieu to Bhutan. Praises are not enough for our Bhutanese guides Mr Tinley and Mr Lobsang who were one of the nicest people that we have met. These gentlemen were super accommodating and understood and managed all our requirements with ease.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-tour-team.jpg
After exit from Phuentsholing my aim was to cover as many Kilometers as possible and reach cochin at the earliest.

Two loaded Motorcycles
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-loaded-gsa.jpg
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-loaded-luna.jpg

During the entire trip a series of hiccups with the motorcycle at a fueling station in Orissa during by return leg. After refueling the motorcycle wouldn’t start. It was only cranking and with each crank the remaining juice in the battery was draining out. Since I had a jump starter matters didn’t escalate and I could continue my ride, the only hassle being that the procedure had to be repeated at every stop.
Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country-battery.jpg
A stopover at my brother’s place in Chennai ensured that I had a replacement battery. Other than that, the return ride to cochin was uneventful. Reached cochin on 14th March.
Looking back, it was a wonderful trip and worth all the wait, we had covered a distance of 6730 Kms and the Motorcycle screen displayed a Mileage of 18.8 Kilometers/ Liter. Summer had already shown its ferocity especially in Andhra Pradesh where the cooling vest came in very handy. Riding across India brings you changing landscape as we cross each state boundaries The BMW GSA is the one bike I totally fell in love with. Multitude of photos and videos were taken, and few are shared here. Since our time was limited, we could cover only a part of west and mid Bhutan. A complete tour would take at least two weeks where in one could enter Bhutan through the western entry point of Pheunsholing, cover entire Bhutan and exit through Dewathang at the East which is only fifty off kilometers from Guwahati. This is my first attempt at a travelogue, and I have tried to be as concise as possible and wish all readers would have enjoyed this read.
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Old 14th April 2023, 04:51   #6
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re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 14th April 2023, 05:40   #7
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re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Wonderful travelogue and narrated well. Comparing your bike with vendor bike was hilarious
A trip of 6700kms in a bike need a perfect planning.
Wish you more rides and share your experience to us.
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Old 14th April 2023, 10:07   #8
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re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Amazing trip.. A perfect planning done with your better half. Loved the narration and the beautiful pics of Bhutan. GSA is an amazing mile muncher; any other type of bike models would have never made your trip so smooth and easy.
And liked the Muvattupuzha plates as well.
Wishing you 3 more trips together.
Kudos.
Joe
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Old 14th April 2023, 10:14   #9
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re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Congratulations on a beautiful trip and a brilliant travelogue. Remarkable achievement. Wish you many more miles of happy motoring with your BMW.
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Old 14th April 2023, 10:43   #10
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Re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

That's one heck of a ride and you made it look so simple. Very detailed and informative too. You have a great riding companion in your wife. Excellent, loved every word of it. Pics speak a lot too. Thank you.
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Old 14th April 2023, 11:37   #11
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Re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Congratulations on that amazing trip. Riding across India into Bhutan is exactly what the GS is made for and you've done justice to the bike.
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Old 14th April 2023, 13:02   #12
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Re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Wonderfully written. You need not have any anxiety as a first time travelogue writer. Good that you covered quite a few domestic places (esp in W Bengal) before you reached the border. Am sure it added zing to your overall trip. Was wondering, did you retrace the same route exactly? Or to lend some variety, your return path was largely different?
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Old 14th April 2023, 14:24   #13
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Re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Amazingly wonderful. You have captured your experience very well. GSA is one hell of a machine and trust worthy at that…

Happy and safe riding…!!!
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Old 14th April 2023, 15:41   #14
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Re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dibyendu Bose View Post
Wonderfully written. You need not have any anxiety as a first time travelogue writer. Good that you covered quite a few domestic places (esp in W Bengal) before you reached the border. Am sure it added zing to your overall trip. Was wondering, did you retrace the same route exactly? Or to lend some variety, your return path was largely different?
Hi Dibyendu, Thankyou. Yes covering few states to reach Bhutan certainly spiced up the whole ride. I more or less retraced the same route except I didn't return Via Darjeeling and added Chennai on my return. If I had few more days with me for sure I would not have traced the same path.
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Old 14th April 2023, 15:44   #15
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Re: Cochin-Bhutan-Cochin | My wife and me on a BMW GSA 1200 | A 6700 km ride to Dragon Country

We did our own trip to Bhutan just last month, 17th to 26th of March. Loved this, reminded me of our own trip! We also did a day ride while we were Thimphu to Dechenophug Lakhang and the Tango Monastery, which I'll post about soon. We stayed at the same hotel as well in Paro, Gawaling is really amazing! Hope to do the same trip as you have done. Thanks for an excellent travelogue!
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