Slowly but steadily, the longest & coldest night of our lives passed & the dawn broke on Day Twelve (10th June) at the usual time. At 7am, I decided to rise & shine. Threw off the quilts, put a jacket on & was ready to face the world. A nice day had broken. First on my list was to start the Safari.
(I had heard some Sarchu horror stories from a very close friend who had stayed here last year. On the way up, his Scorpio just refused to start the next morning & it took innumerable cranks and his battery almost died before it finally sprung to life with thick puffs of oil & black smoke from the exhaust. On the way back, he didn't want a repeat so he actually started up the vehicle 3 times between dinner & early morning just to make sure - he & his driver took turns. Now, that was an overkill I thought & no bloody way was I going to get up in the middle of the night to have various parts of my anatomy frozen! I cranked once after dinner & The Beast started first try. Good! Should be fine the next morning). So I opened up, put the key in the ignition & cranked gingerly. The Beast started up at the second crank! Hey, good going, sub-zero temperatures & all!
I guess the nice clatter woke people up & gradually everyone started filtering out in the open. The hot water buckets arrived & after some idle chatter, we went in to freshen up for breakfast. We'd gathered some water in the buckets at night - they were frozen! Washed up with the fresh hot water. Obviously no question of taking a bath -
are you nuts or what?????
Breakfast was ready in a while & then Roshun & his group were ready to leave. They were going down the road to the Army Transit Camp where they had some work to finish on Anil's vehicle before leaving for Manali. We gave them a ceremonial send-off, little realizing that we'd meet sooner than expected!
Our plan was to leave around 8.30. A few clicks of the warm surroundings (it was difficult to believe that the night could have been so cold) & we were ready to start our journey to Manali
Turned out that it was one of those days where delays & little stumbling blocks keep coming. So, as we were moving out at 8.36am, we saw Roshun & others were still there, just down the road! They needed some assistance in getting hold of a mechanic that they'd left at the Police Check Post. So off we went (with Subhashish), picked up the guy & came back towards the Camp. First obstacle - you'll recollect me mentioning the nasty water crossing just before we reached Himalayan Saga? Now, in the short time that it took us to fetch the mechanic, a Bulldozer had swung into "road repair" mode just after the water crossing - had dumped piles & piles of loose earth & mud right across the road and was busy levelling it.
So, Subhashish got off & gesticulated from across the water - no response. They kept telling us to take a detour & no way we were going to waste further time. So we crossed over & waited. Subhashish thereafter had some heated exchanges with the Bulldozer guy - pointed out that it was a 4x4 Beast etc etc. After a while, the BD guy finally relented.
The place was a mess with the loose earth & mud etc but nothing that 4L couldn't take care of - The Beast contemptuously trundled through!
Thanks Subhashish for convincing that what-cha-ma-call-it of a Bulldozer guy!!! Dropped Subhashish & the mech off at the Camp & at 9.47 am,
we were finally on our way!
I've seen that an unplanned delay often throws up more delays down the line. So true, yet again! 12 kms down the road, we see a queue & guess what? Obstacle number Two - Broken bridge, LOL!!! Anyway, walked down & saw there was place for another vehicle right up in front. So, in typical NCR style, sneaked the Safari into that slot
!
Preliminary conversations with the guys on the spot revealed a lot of blame game & "passing the buck going" on. The plates had arrived but apparently it was a missing wrench or other such tool that was stalling the process. We offered to help with our toolkit but the reply was
"Truck ki tools chahiye sirji". After 15-20 minutes of buck-passing, some senior guy arrived & things were sorted out somewhat. The repair work had begun!! Apparently the damage had taken place around 8 pm the previous evening so our leaving earlier that morning wouldn't have helped.
We were at the spot for almost an hour & a half, gathering first hand experience of how such a bridge is repaired. Was fascinating watching them put the bits together though the wait was frustrating. There were quite a few bikers waiting, struck up a conversation with one of them ( a student from Pune). The next problem anticipated (as you'd have gathered from the pics) was the chaos that would erupt when traffic from both sides would try & get through first!!! But we were lucky - a PWD or some such junior officer was
on our side of the bridge. He got hold of a police guy & walked across to the other side. In a matter of minutes, they'd got the traffic on the other side to park neatly & leave space for the vehicles from our end to get through first. Three cheers!!!!
At 11.38am, we started up & crossed over. There were a few cannonball cabbies behind me, I let them go. I wasn't going to be rushed, pushed & shoved up Baralacha La, that was for sure. What amazing views. The color of the day was, obviously,
WHITE!!!
The approach road to Baralacha La was one of the worst that we encountered on this trip. Water was gushing down over the broken path, the bikes were having a tough time - the biker in the 3rd picture slipped & almost stalled right in front of me when I was merrily chugging along in 4L. Had to brake sharply & change my plans!
As incredibly bad as the roads were, what was more incredible was the repair work they had done closer to the Top, on both sides -
JET BLACK TARMAC. We reached the top at 12.13pm. Didn't get off because the roads were narrow due to the snow walls & because of the broken bridge just having opened up, traffic volume behind us was very high. Baralacha La -
WOW!!!