[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by bikertillidie

Updates from 17th January



We finally know the reason.



A snapped timing chain
]

Wow, you do not see that too often. Any idea what caused this. Did you check and measure the chain for wear earlier on. You want to make double sure other bits did not get damaged too!

Good luck

Jeroen

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Wow, you do not see that too often. Any idea what caused this. Did you check and measure the chain for wear earlier on. You want to make double sure other bits did not get damaged too!

Good luck

Jeroen

I was shocked to see this as well.

We'll need to retrieve bits of the timing chain from the sump/timing chain tunnel & check for additional damage.

Not sure whether the valves & pistons have undergone significant damage. I intend to rotate the cam shaft by hand, once the timing chain is off, to check for potential damage to the valves. If it rotates freely, we'll probably just leave it as is.

Ditto for the crank shaft/ as well.

Not sure about the exact cause, but I suspect that the timing chain may have jumped off the sprocket (or a few teeth at least). This could have been caused by a limp chain tensioner.

The tensioner seems to be of the type which relies on oil pressure to operate correctly ...

But we'll only know once we take things apart.

I am praying that the damage is only superficial..

[bikertillidie]

Updates as of 20th January, 2018

The bumpers were dropped off at the workshop to be electroplated.




The timing chain and the sump was removed from the engine. The chain had caused a gaping hole near the front end oil seal. Dropped it off at the welders...


The vacuum plumbing was repaired and damaged sections were replaced with rubber tubing. Hopefully, this should last a few years.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by bikertillidie

The timing chain and the sump was removed from the engine. The chain had caused a gaping hole near the front end oil seal. Dropped it off at the welders...

The vacuum plumbing was repaired and damaged sections were replaced with rubber tubing. Hopefully, this should last a few years.

Good luck with the welding. These sumps might not be the easiest bits to weld.

On the vacuum plumbing; be careful to use sufficiently thick rubber tubing. It’s vacuum and if the vacuum makes the tubing collapse, none of the bits will work anymore! So test it before you put the carpets and trimming over them or you are in for a lot of rework!

Good luck!

Jeroen

[bikertillidie]

Updates from 21st January, 18

The alignment marks on the camshaft was set to TDC (for cylinder 1). To achieve this this shaft had to be lifted and rotated by 180 degrees.

Meanwhile, the crankshaft was also rotated to align the marks on the pulley to TDC. Not sure whether this is visible in the last photograph..


The timing chain guide near the camshaft needed removal to allow the new chain into position. The pin securing the guide being removed using a homemade "extricator".




The timing rail shows some deep scouring marks and would also be replaced.

The IP timing would be set next, after rotating the crankshaft to 24 degrees BTDC.

[bikertillidie]

Query to all Mumbai based folks -

Would you happen to know whether the CST Road markets stay open on 26th January?

I am planning a trip there to try and locate a used prop shaft for the car.

Would appreciate an early response, thanks!

[Klub Class]

Originally Posted by bikertillidie

Would you happen to know whether the CST Road markets stay open on 26th January?

Just checked with a FIATian friend in Mumbai

He said, it will be closed (on Fridays, market is not open)

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by Klub Class

Just checked with a FIATian friend in Mumbai

He said, it will be closed (on Fridays, market is not open)

Many thanks for this !

How about Chor Bazar - is it closed as well ?

[bikertillidie]

Finally decided against visiting Mumbai and have ordered the prop shaft via Partsbase.de.

- A1234108401 JOINT SHAFT

Found it rather convenient.

Does anyone on this forum have any prior experience dealing with them?

[bikertillidie]

Updates from 27th January

The new timing chain comes fully riveted from the factory. There are no links to be riveted after fitment.

The crankshaft needs to be loosened to slide it in.

Pics of the work underway..

The pulley, harmonic balancer, the clutch, flywheel and backing plate were removed..

Noted some damage near the water pump.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by bikertillidie

Updates from 27th January



The new timing chain comes fully riveted from the factory. There are no links to be riveted after fitment.



The crankshaft needs to be loosened to slide it in.


.

That sounds very peculiar? Timing chains are not riveted, but they do require a simple chain punch to take apart.

Jeroen

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

That sounds very peculiar? Timing chains are not riveted, but they do require a simple chain punch to take apart.

Jeroen

I am replacing the timing chain with one meant for the Tempo traveller. It has a turbo charged variant of the OM616.

The chain appears a lot more robust than the one which broke...

As can be seen from the photos, in order to open up a link, the ends must be ground off.

I have no reliable way to put it all back together, unlike the older varieties.

[bikertillidie]

Updates from 28th January

The day started out by visiting a prominent workshop in Pune.

Besides, the broken banjo bolt also needed to be removed from the housing.



The waterpump needed repairs. There was a gaping hole which had to be fixed. The fact that the housing was made of aluminium, made matters a bit tricky.






A helicoil insert was added to fix the stripped threads.



The fact that the Bajaj Tempo (Force Motors) spares continues to remain available in plenty, helped a lot.





Note the deeply scoured tensioner rail.





The engine block was flipped over, timing chain rails, tensioner, timing device, intermediate shafts, crankshaft bearings were removed to facilitate entry of the timing chain. This freed up sufficient room for sliding the new chain in..






The intermediate shaft bushing was checked for wear, the shaft and the timing device slid back in, after ensuring that the chain had been lifted adequately for the sprocket to slip in.

[bikertillidie]

Continued

The bearing surfaces were cleaned, inspected, lubricated and re-tightened to spec (90Nm) using a torque wrench.





The oil pump was cleaned, and reattached to the intermediate shaft.

The welded section of the sump was smoothened out using a file.

New seals were duly added at both ends.






It was reattached to the block after a light smearing of silicone sealant (after a thorough cleanup of the mating surfaces)







Piston 1 was rotated to TDC, and the harmonic balancer was reattached ensuring that the 0T mark aligned with the mark on the engine block.


The oil pan was bolted on next.

[mbz180]

Hello,

I'm not sure about other chains but Benz timing chains have one link which can be opened.

These are relatively simple engines, but if you or your mechanics have any doubts on how things fit back, please consult the workshop manual.

My petrol Benz's timing chain was just re-installed, the lock goes in the opposite direction to the direction of the chain's rotation to keep it from unlocking due to the rotation.

Please follow the workshop manual to the T; small but critical points in there which when followed can save a lot of heart ache later

Following your thread closely and enjoying it!