[x-o-b]

Originally Posted by x-o-b

Silly I haven't yet physically looked at them

The calipers are single pot type sadly. I guess twin pots are an overkill.

I finished three tasks today. Fabricated a blanking plate for the EGR pipe and placed it near the exhaust manifold where the exhaust hose bifurcates into the EGR hose. This way the whole EGR system stays clean. The vacuum operated EGR valve still operates and the ECU thinks that the system is still good because feedback (via the electrical connector) from the EGR Valve still passes on to the ECU.

I also removed the breather assembly that houses the oil separator for the PCV system and serviced it. I cleaned the oil deflector which was pretty clogged up by oil. Then I cleaned the Air Mass Flow sensor as well.

Cleaning/clearing the inter-cooler is next on the list but considering the tedious removal process I am putting that off for a rainy day.

[himanshu_trikha]

Originally Posted by x-o-b

The calipers are single pot type sadly. I guess twin pots are an overkill.

I finished three tasks today. Fabricated a blanking plate for the EGR pipe and placed it near the exhaust manifold where the exhaust hose bifurcates into the EGR hose. This way the whole EGR system stays clean. The vacuum operated EGR valve still operates and the ECU thinks that the system is still good because feedback (via the electrical connector) from the EGR Valve still passes on to the ECU.

Will this setup be able to Comply with Emission Controls ,in simple words will this get a PUC Certificate on legitimate basis ?

[x-o-b]

Originally Posted by himanshu_trikha

Will this setup be able to Comply with Emission Controls ,in simple words will this get a PUC Certificate on legitimate basis ?

A cat-con delete will affect the emissions significantly not EGR delete although it does have an impact on the atmosphere nonetheless.

Just give this a thought, wouldn't stage 2 tuning and custom exhaust businesses be shut down "legally" if compliance was a problem?

[himanshu_trikha]

Originally Posted by x-o-b

A cat-con delete will affect the emissions significantly not EGR delete although it does have an impact on the atmosphere nonetheless.

Just give this a thought, wouldn't stage 2 tuning and custom exhaust businesses be shut down "legally" if compliance was a problem?

I am not sure about either meeting emission norms knowing a few things about combustion mechanics.

Unfortunately,In our country many things not ‘road legal’ survive perhaps due to huge population, corruption,lack of conscience and the rule or power/money.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by x-o-b

I also removed the breather assembly that houses the oil separator for the PCV system and serviced it. I cleaned the oil deflector which was pretty clogged up by oil. Then I cleaned the Air Mass Flow sensor as well.

Do you have pictures with the exact location of the breather assembly & oil deflector and if it made any difference in the operation after you cleaned it?

[(Alok)]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Do you have pictures with the exact location of the breather assembly & oil deflector and if it made any difference in the operation after you cleaned it?

here is the a picture from parts catalogue.https://oriparts.com/4/329/1828/545007

[x-o-b]

Imagine the scenario when the air intake filter gets clogged. Since vacuum is built during the intake stroke, and since air intake is restricted from the filter, the engine tries hard to "suck" at the PCV hose connected to it thereby drawing air from the crankcase or indirectly through the breather pipe of the engine. Also oil from the oil separator system could potentially be sucked into the turbocharger, inter-cooler and eventually into the intake manifold. This breather pipe is usually found dangling free in the engine bay with an open and free end.

Hence, it is also important that the breather hose has a good small dust filter to prevent dirt that would otherwise pass onto the engine and make way through to the engine intake system. Oh, and the same is true with those vacuum hoses. Never leave them dangling open and exposed to air, as these are also connected back to the air intake system. Other than causing loss of vacuum, these can inject impurities into the system.

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Do you have pictures with the exact location of the breather assembly & oil deflector

Thanks to Alok.

Originally Posted by (Alok)

here is the a picture from parts catalogue.https://oriparts.com/4/329/1828/545007


Attachment 2749201

Yes, that's the one. I know that the actual pictures would be better but I didn't click any pictures. I have this habit of leaving my smartphone in my bedroom while I go out to soil my hands like during cattle fodder collecting, agricultural activities, auto repairs, lumber-jacking, welding jobs, etc.

The PCV system injects partly burnt/unburnt fumes, that escape into the crankcase through the piston rings, back to the intake manifold through the air intake system (because that's where suction/intake stroke vacuum build-up is). The fumes get mixed up with the engine oil and tend to travel through to the intake. To trap this oil, the oil separator is used in the PCV system and engine oil is trapped and channeled back to the sump.

Now if the oil separator gets clogged by soot/smoke from the crankcase, engine oil doesn't get separated and hence travels to the air intake system (at a point after air filter). Engine oil, hence, gets into the intercooler and into the intake manifold, which obviously, is bad. The PCV system is, in some way, like a baby version of the EGR system. The cleaner this system is, the better it is for the engine's performance. I wish someday they would come up with a crankcase ventilation system where the gases are routed to the exhaust manifold instead of the the intake side.

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

... and if it made any difference in the operation after you cleaned it?

Well, my car is currently resting without its ECU, but I am sure cleaning the breather system will make a difference. It won't matter to me anyway if the difference is noticeable at all. I just trust the physics

[DirtyDan]

I have disconnected the the air mass thingy from the air filter and blocked off the EGR ONLY on my two original THARS, a 2013 and a late 2018. I have not done this on any other vehicle. All I can tell you is that my results have been absolutely trouble free after many tens of thousand of kilometers driven on both vehicles. The performance enhancement from doing this is VERY NOTICEABLE.

[x-o-b]

Originally Posted by DirtyDan

I have disconnected the the air mass thingy from the air filter and blocked off the EGR ONLY on my two original THARS, a 2013 and a late 2018. I have not done this on any other vehicle. All I can tell you is that my results have been absolutely trouble free after many tens of thousand of kilometers driven on both vehicles. The performance enhancement from doing this is VERY NOTICEABLE.

I'm trying to figure out the "physics" behind the performance improvement by disconnecting the Air Mass Flow (AMF) sensor cable.

Now, EGR delete clearly makes a difference because exhaust gases from a stock EGR system reduce the effective engine displacement and hence contribute to less power. That's the "physics" - there's logic to it. The purpose of the AMF, on the other hand, is to maintain optimal air-fuel ratio, also known as the stoichiometric air fuel ratio, which for diesel fuel is 14.5:1.
No input from this sensor implies, the ECU falls back to a default mapped value (which perhaps is more aggressive, I don't know). Wouldn't cleaning this sensor be a better idea? On Boodmo, the cost of this sensor is about 8K. Gosh that's expensive.

I fail to see how disabling a fuel optimization device boosts performance. I know it works because DirtyDan knows it does, but what's the physics behind it? Just curious.

[DirtyDan]

Originally Posted by x-o-b

I'm trying to figure out the "physics" behind the performance improvement by disconnecting the Air Mass Flow (AMF) sensor cable.

Now, EGR delete clearly makes a difference because exhaust gases from a stock EGR system reduce the effective engine displacement and hence contribute to less power. That's the "physics" - there's logic to it. The purpose of the AMF, on the other hand, is to maintain optimal air-fuel ratio, also known as the stoichiometric air fuel ratio

I fail to see how disabling a fuel optimization device boosts performance.

....if you go back to about post 74 thru 78 you will see that the recommendation to unplug the AMF came from a gentleman who is a mechanical engineer by trade and who is VERY knowlegable about Mahindra in particular. I don't know the physics or non-physics of this AMF unplug. I just did what this fellow suggested and my little red Thar runs like a scalded goose and after many tens of thousands of kilometers I have no ill effects. Others have tried this on other model cars and it has resulted in serious oil leaks. Not so the original Thar for some reason. That's my story and I'm sticking to it

[x-o-b]

Originally Posted by DirtyDan

....the recommendation to unplug the AMF came from a gentleman who is a mechanical engineer by trade and who is VERY knowlegable ...

You must pardon me for my questions, since I am only a noob after all and wish to learn stuffs about automobiles. I pray that this "very knowledgeable" mechanical engineer bumps into this thread once again and educate this curious little brat .

[x-o-b]

UPDATE: My remapped ECU will be delivered today. I can't wait to plug it back in.

Meanwhile, I decided to move the EGR blanking plate from the exhaust manifold towards the intake side. The rationales were:

1. The plate would get way too hotter placed at the exhaust side and hence melt probably? At the intake side, the plate would stay cool because any exhaust hot gas would be colder comparatively, and there's EGR cooler too.
2. Blocking right at the intake implies that all the cold air from the intercooler finds its way only and directly into the intake manifold, instead of travelling towards the EGR side and perhaps losing some boost pressure there.



In this process, I also cleaned the air intake hose. See how dirty it was:



And this is after cleaning it up:



A partially cleaned Air Mass Sensor (to be cleaned completely) for reference:



I also fabricated the EGR blocking plate myself because the previous one was too crude and lazy-looking. This time I put some effort. The following pictures will tell the story:



A scrap of iron sheet (5 mm thick) ↑↑



Checking if the size is adequate ↑↑



Flattening Out ↑↑



Using the aluminum gasket as template ↑↑



Cutting to Size ↑↑



Grounded to remove rust and make it look presentable ↑↑



Looks like it fits ↑↑

Oh, by the way, I took extra care to sand down the edges so that it isn't sharp and hurts me during maintenance, installation, etc. or damages automotive wiring.

Lastly, before I install the plate in, I have to ask a question to the experts here.

Should I drill a small hole in the middle of the plate?
Why? Because I have seen that done in many after market blanking plates. They claim that it keeps the engine light from turning on (the emission malfunction light). Are there other benefits to letting in a little bit of exhaust gas in? Personally, I like it completely sealed such that the engine gets to breathe only pure cold air at all times. Please do drop some views, thanks.

[viXit]

brings back so many memories.
I had a blanking plate made out of aluminium that the engine swallowed.old car.
EGT was extremely high and it probably melted and went straight through. Never had issues though.

But throughout my experiments with blocking egr, whether a blanking plate on one of the egr plumbing sides or disconnecting the egr valve vacuum line, I always got a CEL after some time. Since your ECU is remapped, get them to code out the EGR function if it has a ECU controlled valve. Else this will throw errors.

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by x-o-b

Hi fellas,



The above are the only planned upgrades, and I do not intend to modify further like Stage 2, etc, etc. I have a few wish lists like installing custom tail lamps and front fender lamps (popular matrix type available for 2020 Thar) and recessed front bumper fog lamps (the old amber light type). A slight body work would be required for both the front and rear lamps as well as for the fog lamps. I have already installed power windows and centre lock, reverse camera, proximity sensors, TPMS, OBD-II scanner, Android head-unit, a luggage carrier and added front facing rear seats with a left-side-only rear door.


Take care fellas.

All good and everything but WHERE the heck are the pictures??!

Originally Posted by DirtyDan

I have disconnected the the air mass thingy from the air filter and blocked off the EGR ONLY on my two original THARS, a 2013 and a late 2018. I have not done this on any other vehicle. All I can tell you is that my results have been absolutely trouble free after many tens of thousand of kilometers driven on both vehicles. The performance enhancement from doing this is VERY NOTICEABLE.

Done the same thing, thanks to you and Dhanush's inputs and she purrs. Also added a throttle controller and she takes off quite literally. The throttle lag is very pronounced in this Thar. The feeling is about 20-25 hp more for sure. Gear shifts have reduced noticeably, honestly an ecu remap is just pure greed at the moment.

[DirtyDan]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Done the same thing, thanks to you and Dhanush's inputs and she purrs.

The cat is now out of the bag as to who Dhanushs really is. I hope you guys noticed the author of this....

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-t...they-work.html (IntelliTurn & CrawlSmart in the Thar ROXX- All about how they work!)