Team-BHP - All questions for CJ 3B

Quote:

Originally Posted by docfreak (Post 2558373)

my overflow tank is perhaps sealed tight, as it never worked after installation. as in the radiator doesnt suck out and coolant from it even when empty, my mech says its due to absence of a thermostat.
The carb is a M34(jeep intended)
i didnt get what u explained about the spindle.
can u pls pm me ur number. i will surely disturb u.
thanks
sharat

Check the radiator cap. There is a vent in it that is used to suck coolant from the reservoir.

A thermostat helps engine attain optimum operating temperature faster than otherwise!

The vent in the cap is patent.

The jeep is running great, no sluggishness, no such issues. Only that the carb body below the butterfly has some petrol on it which can be felt.
I am running on two serial pumps but have not used the electrical pump since it was installed, never.
Somehow i am not very convinced with the benefit of a return line, though i did procure the necessary T and the tubing as mentioned in BD sir's post.
Is the overflow bottle functional in any hurricane engine? Also how does it work, as in what is the scientific basis of an overflow bottle functioning, maybe that helps me in assessng why mine doesnt work.
Thanks
Sharat

Quote:

Originally Posted by headers (Post 2559813)

A thermostat helps engine attain optimum operating temperature faster than otherwise!

2) Maintains the Coolant Level in the water Jacket and prevents hot-spots, which lead to gasket failures.

3) Keeps the engine in optimum running temp, thereby increasing power & fuel efficiency.(emissions:D)

one possible area of leak is the water pump top flange (3 Bolts) usually it corrode and the water evaporate through small pin holes.

Regards,

Arka

Quote:

Originally Posted by docfreak

Is the overflow bottle functional in any hurricane engine? Also how does it work, as in what is the scientific basis of an overflow bottle functioning, maybe that helps me in assessng why mine doesnt work.
Thanks
Sharat

Hi, usually the overflow is used for the excess fuel in the carburettor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by docfreak (Post 2559846)

The vent in the cap is patent.

The jeep is running great, no sluggishness, no such issues. Only that the carb body below the butterfly has some petrol on it which can be felt.
I am running on two serial pumps but have not used the electrical pump since it was installed, never.
Why don't you connect the T and then a pressure gauge. Then you can see the difference in pressure with one pump, and with both pumps.

Somehow i am not very convinced with the benefit of a return line, though i did procure the necessary T and the tubing as mentioned in BD sir's post.
Is the overflow bottle functional in any hurricane engine? Also how does it work, as in what is the scientific basis of an overflow bottle functioning, maybe that helps me in assessng why mine doesnt work.
Thanks
Sharat

The overflow bottle is just a catchment bottle. Assuming pressure cap on radiator header tank, needs to be at atmospheric pressure, and vertically as close to the radiator header as possible.

If any of these are not working properly, coolant will not be drawn back:
A) The small one way valve in the PrCap. Stuck.
B) Top seal of the PrCap., (not the pressure seal). Leaks air.
C) Overflow tank not at atmospheric pressure. Vacuum being created.

Regards
Sutripta

The insect mesh removed, temo has dropped by about 5-10deg.
Spoke to the jeep boss, (UBS) , he says that these are wet block engines, so if a sleeve other than the permeable IPL sleeve goes in, the baseline temp would increase to 80deg. So no sweat. Also that this temp over any sustained time period would have no adverse effect on the engine.

The overflow bottle mystery is yet on.
The suspensions changed as was suggested unanimously, now th ride is far better.
After everything, its a bliss to drive the 3b with purr under the hood. Today took her for a birding trail and the super silent engine was a big bonus.
I think the reliability issues should be sorted out now. :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by docfreak (Post 2559846)

It has worked well in my CJ3B, only issue i had was the capacity was little less (the tank i used) so could not fill more than 3/4 of the marking or it would overflow a lil bit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by docfreak (Post 2574149)

The insect mesh removed, temo has dropped by about 5-10deg.

Yup had the same issue and i never liked the look of mesh on CJ3B so had removed it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by genesis (Post 2614890)

What would be a good 4 core replacement radiator for the CJ?

Would something like what fits in a 540 work or would it be too big and the fan shroud/cowl will have trouble being refitted back?

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ve...ml#post2614838

Hi Soumya,

It better to make a 4 core radiator for the CJ3B.

The Metal Shroud from the Older XDP4.9 is a direct fit for the CJ3B Radiator Grille.

Regards,

Arka

Hi Shiva,
I picked up a brand new body for my 3b, from mayapuri, costed me approx 6k. But the body was of a cl 350 not 3b. was a direct fit and has been on the jeep for more than 2 years with no evidence of rust. I did get it completely coated with 3m anti rust though.

CJ runs like a champ after reducing distributor point gaps, spark plug gaps, cleaning radiator and replacing radiator hoses.

However a perplexing issue:

During an OTR on the weekend, if the jeep was facing a very steep downhill incline (NOT UPHILL) and was on idle/applied slight braking while crawling, then the engine died.

Would not restart. Once on flat land would restart in a jiffy.

Petrol tank was half full.

One thing which comes to mind is to make the engine 'fast' :) so it does not cut out, but is there another solution?

Does the float level matter when facing downwards or upwards?

Most related CJ problems seem to happen facing up an incline and not downhill.

Inputs solicited.