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i have a query-
yesterday i passed through some slush after which there was a incline up, just at the end of the slush. slush was not deep and neither the incline too steep. slush was about 1and1/2 feet for about 100mts and the incline was about 100mts long at about 40 degrees. when i was in the slush i was on 2nd gear 4 hi, then the jeep would not climb over the incline in this gear , even on press-release,gunning any thing , i could not take momentum before the climb as it would splash on my spark plug and miss for a few seconds, so i had to go slow till the start then go up, and it would not, so i stopped engaged 4 low , 2nd gear and went up easy. is there a way by which i would not need to halt and shift and move up as the gurkha did it , in 4 hi 2nd gear. but the cb would not. am i missing some thing here? any wrong technique?
i tried 4 low in slush but then my tyres would spin .

at the end of the day there was another steep incline which the gurkha did but i kept loosing traction and sliding down , why do i loose so much traction? i faced this 2-3 times now over the past 1 year that the gurkha would do it, but the legendry 3b wouldnt. am i getting it wrong somewhere or the gurkha by inherent diff locks and wt is more apt in certain places where i loose traction?

NEW DEVELOPMENT: got a new radiator, with the overflow bottle and topped it with 3 lt of coolant and 2 lt of water, running 20% cooler now. quite thrilled with this new contraption , will now note for any additional hose leaks to check if the higher pressures now generated are of any concern

For slush the NDMs is antiquated,...hence to keep the jeep moving you need momentum.

If you had wider MT tread, you could have crawled.

docfreak,
Especially, since you could not gather momentum before the incline, you should have done 1st or 2nd and 4 low and maintained momentum and added more without over revving.
In slush, 2nd 4 low would give you the needed traction at stable and graduated acceleration.
At the second steep incline, second, 4 low + momentum + not touching the clutch pedal combination should easily see you through, a break in continuous momentum would result in a hesitant climb ending in down slide.

NDMS are narrower and the desired traction cannot be achieved due to this plus the Gurkha has Diff lock.
Regards,

hi fazal ,
in the second incline i was in the 2nd gear 4 low. while trying it unsuccesfully. also the clutch i didnt touch, i was trying it some reasonable momentum and the break in momentum was not the issue but the tyres spinning half way up and i tried with varying revs as well. but to no benifit.

maybe its the tyres, maybe its me, will try it again tomorrow. then will poat the pictures and result again.

naveen/fazal/others who viewed----comment / commend the radiator thing , i am quite chuffed about it. perhaps the first planned mod i did , so i am over enthu ...:D

Oh Yes! The radiator thing...how could I forget??
It will help you more in summers as the tendency to heat will be overcome by the coolant doing its job. Every bit worth the money.
Regards,

NDMS you will have to air down if you want them to perform, about 15 psi for slush. Get a set of decent modern tyres, it will make your CJ3B a killer offroad machine. Am really missing the Trepador after i parted with them :(

Hi Doc Freak,

The Gurkha has a Divorced T-Case hence it can engage 4WD Lo on the fly in speeds under 5-10Kmph.

The Propeller Shaft connecting the Gearbox to the T-Case, can take up some speed mismatch.

The CJ3B with a Petrol Engine is very capable, but the driver has to be very careful an innovative with the Gearing.

T-90
1st 2.798:1 X 2.46 = 6.88:1
2nd 1.551:1 X 2.46 = 3.813:1
3rd 1.000:1 X 2.46 = 2.46:1
Rev 3.798:1 X 2.46 = 9.34:1

Notice your 1st Hi and 3rd Lo are similar (13% difference:))

Loosing traction is because too Low a Gear/Too much torque or too much wheel spin, or improper tyres.

Try the climb with a short run up in 1st gear Low, and aggressively pump the accelerator pedal, otherwise the engine will run out of breath.

Also a Jaggu suggest deflate the tyres.

Regards,

Arka

PS - I'm going to copy your Radiator mod very soon:thumbs up

will try it now in 1st low.

a new problem cropped up - my engine was not getting unough fuel but the pumps were fine and all seemed normal, then we opened the tank and voila ...what do we find?? some hair clips, including a little kitty, one tt ball, some newpaper rubber bands and lots of muck .

got it cleaned, fuel line completely air cleaned. then i realized hoe it got there...these little children play with my jeep every evening in various game formats of theirs and my fuel lid can open without a key, so :Frustrati these little buggers .

also that must be another reason i must have lost steam some way along . also while i was doing some tight corners my lid opened up and some dirt must have gone in .

lessons learnt and time to teach these pranksters a lesson:D

a few days back i faced a problem that while i was forced to break hard on an incline up , the brake felt as if metal was being grounded instead of the brake shoes and the pedal went in far more than before. after the otr the brakes were working but not as smooth and effective as before. a few days later the brakes completely gave up on me.
problem : the master cylinder had rust at the mounting of the pedal and the washers were unable to hold up so water went in and the compression was low.
solution: instead of the single cylinder i went in for the double barrel cylinder with the extra bottle and tubing attachment.
costs; single cyloinder was 700rs and the whole set up installed by me turned to be 3500rs. all stuff from mm vendor.
next upgrade required: to fully use the set up installed effectively i need to put in bigger 540 drums. (as suggested by the mech)

query: do i need the drums? did i do the right thing by putting in the double piston cylinder or just a waste of money?

also what does a wider track make a difference to the jeep's capabilities?

docfreak,
540 drums definitely increase braking efficiency due to more friction surface between brake pads and drum compared to 3B drums which are smaller, but you lose on the originality of a 3B.

Double piston cylinders too are recommended against the single for better braking, resulting in dual action.

A wider track on a 3B gives you more stability especially when off-roading, resulting in decreased body roll due to 3B's high center of gravity and more so due to its narrow track. A wider track negates the above to an extent.
Regards,

fazal bhai,
the braking issue is a practical one rather than of originality , i drive my jeep everywhere including in crowded city areas, so the need.

for the wider track- wider axels, differentials / negative offset alloys are the options , correct?

Not required, as of now I am running my CJ340 on
Front - The MM550XD 51" Front Axle and Disc Brakes and 4.88:1 (44/9)
Rear - MM550XD 51" SFRA with 30 spline and Track-Lock LSD, and 4.88:1
on stock 16" wheels and NDMS, There is no problem at all, I will upgrade them later as the Jeep is now on trial runs.
Regards,

the workings of the brake upgrade:

the cylinder has two pistons so two inlets, one for the front two wheels and one for the rear two, thus making it give double reliability in case one fails. the lines had to be re-routed so instead of bending them manually the lines were bent under head so as not to kink and decrease pressure towards a speceific wheel .

the other difference was that in the single piston type the brake light switch was located on the master cylinder end but in the double piston type it cannot be done as the size is bigger and no port, so instead the switch was installed at the junction of the lines from the front two wheels.

braking seems better......maybe its just in my head.

also got the underbody washed and all nipples greased and boy is she riding smooth....:thumbs up

next plan is to design and install a rubber based splash guard underneath and the long planned overdrive/diff ratio change with low ratio gear box.

arka..can the diff ratio be effected only by changing the carrier in the diff? if i correctly remember u mentioned this somehere..

Hi,
Personal observation, others might disagree: The larger drums used to take an awfully long time to dry out after a fjording.

With a double master cylinder, just make sure you're generating enough pressure. Are you able to lock the wheels?

The wider track will give better stability, but I don't think affects body roll in any way.

Regards
Sutripta

Note to mods: the word disagree is being rendered as dis and the I agree smiley!

Brake line should be F & R or diagonal FR - RL & FL - RR?? Even i haven't checked in my vehicle, info would be useful.