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Am running the maxxis these days 235 75 15 and very happy with it. Both on road and off it, steering is also pretty light. Only at parking speed it loads a lil. Had to adjust the stoppers so that the tyres wouldn't touch the spring at full lock. Thats all.

got a 3m antirust coating done, changed the battery , cleaned the radiator and also the fuel line seems to be doing well with the changes

the water pump pully was also replaced.

the ball of the clutch and the sterring adjustment done alongwith, whew..ran up a bill of 9k, but running better than ever, maybe i should ask m&m to acknoledge that the new 3b also never ranas good:Shockked:

In the last two days, the gear lever of my CJ has gotten stuck twice.

1st time on Sat in mumbai, got stuck in second. Could push the clutch to disengage but cant change to any other gear, (1,3,R). Drove like that to the mech and since he was not there, his assistant did a temp fix.

They took off the housing on the top and behind the ring we could see one tooth sticking out which was preventing the ring from going forward. (these are non tech terms). He felt the lever housing was fine.

They managed to get it working by one person pushing the errant tooth down, the other pushing the ring and a third rotating the wheel which had been jacked up. Warned me that it was a temp fix and that a patta (there are apparently 3 pattas) within the assembly which slides back and forth was broken and it could happen again if I changed gears hard

Went off for an OTR on Sun, jeep performed like a champ but on way back got stuck in 3rd. Drove in that condition from Panvel to Mumbai in traffic but made it home.

Now the question: Google tells me that this is caused by a faulty bush in the bell housing. The chotu mechanic says that a 'patta' in the assembly has to be changed for which the gear box has to be taken down.

Any input on direction is appreciated.

Hi Soumya,

If thwe "Patta" is Bronze/Golden in colour it is the Synchroniser Cones, which need to be changed.

Regards,

Arka

arka,
if it was the synchro which was the culprit then the 1st should have been working well , as that doesnt need the synchro. or am i getting it wrong somewhere?
enlighten us boss. please:

Hi DocFreak,

Genesis/Soumya has mentioned that the synchro ring jumped out of the Main Shaft, if that happens it will prevent the shifting fork from moving thereby blocking the shifter and Gear Leaver from moving.

Regards,

Arka

I am facing 2 problems with my JEEP's T-case.

1. The Hi-Low lever (Smallest lever) slips to neutral whenever the vehicle is on a descent and the accelerator is released.

Eg:- If I am on a slope in 3rd Gear and the accelerator is not used, the lever slips to neutral. If constant acceleration is provided, the lever doesn't slip.

2. The small lever doesn't shift to low range. The vehicle is always stationary and the front wheels are pointed straight.

What could be the issue ?

Edit : Forgot one more thing. The Oil pressure gauge always sticks near the low mark. It increases when the vehicle is accelerated. I have filled up at least 3 lts of oil day before yesterday. What might be the reason for this ??

All i can say its time to overhaul the Tcase and gearbox. Its a very simple box and once set right will not give you any trouble. No idea about technical details, but yes get it fixed coz it can be dangerous to drive in an OTR with slipping tranny.

Which engine are you running, the petrols have very low oil pressure. So gauge will show close to zero at idle and may go upto 2-2.5 bar at revs. If the oil pressure light switches off at start things are fine. Please note that there was no gauge for this engines. Mostly retrofitted and that too with diesel engine spec meters.

Hi Sabreesh,

I'll answer in points.

1) There is Play in the T-Case (Check the Intermediate Shaft & Intermediate Gear for Slack or Play)

2) Lo to Hi Ratio can only be engaged after 2H to 4H is engaged, other wise you cannot shift directly to Lo-Ratio in 2H.

If 4H is engaged and you cannot shift to 4WD, check the slack in the shifting lever, if it is not aligned properly you will not be able to shift, you can shift from 4H to 4L if the vehicle is doing very low speeds (under 5 Kmph) How ever this is not advisable.

If the Lever slips out you can use a Spanner to Lock the Front Axle Engage Lever and the Ratio Selector Lever:D.

If you have to drop your T-Case, you will be better off, servicing the T-90 and also replace the Clutch & Assy (if Required)

Transmission Tips on The Jeep CJ3B Page

Transfer Case Rebuild on The Jeep CJ3B Page

Transfer Case Tech Tips on The Jeep CJ3B Page
Regards,

3)The DI Series Engines generate very Low Oil Pressure, and that is characteristic of this (B275) engine, however if the Oil Pressure doesnot rise with increased engine speed, and drops drastically at operating Temp, then you need to look into
i) Oil Line (Pump to Oil Pressure Gauge)
ii) Oil Pressure Gauge
iii) Oil Pressure Switch
iv) Oil Filter
v) Oil Pressure Relief Valve
v) Oil Pump

Does your engine consume oil (Burnt during combustion, Bluish Gray Smoke, or does it leak oil?

Arka

Attachment Courtesy CJ3B Page.

arka, u will always leave a teaser in your answer to generate the enxt question..ok , tell us in detail(for us novices) about this spanner trick. also how do u disengage the front prop with some flange thing, i am totally clueless on it , so explain it like a lesson for dummies
thanks
sharat

Dear Friends,
This 3B manual is an ocean of info.

For a start I am uploading pics. of, wiring diagram (LHD), Fuel economy tips and trouble shooting chart( 2 pages).

Any particular queries, feel free to PM me and I will put it up on the forum for all to benefit.
Regards,











.

hi fazal,
these pages are a treasure mine, specially the wiring diagram i had never seen , post up other pages , perhaps 2 every week and over the week we could elaborate on the pages posted. we could start with the interpretation for the wiring diag in complete detail , as i could not make sense of it in very a very comprehensive way .
sharat

Hi Sharat,
What about the diagram was not clear, please elaborate for me to get it right.

If there are members who would save pages if sequentially posted here it is worth, or else anyone with specific queries an PM me.
Regards,

hi fazal,
i will elaborate on my question later, but i think sequential posting of pages with explanations wouyld be great , pm's defeat the purpose of a forum . i think so .

i am in a hurry as i am off for the raid de himalayas in a few hours.
will update after a week
sharat

A bit tired with electricals conking out every now and then especially with fuses getting loose/blowing up.

Would welcome suggestions for a robust fusebox replacement with 'proper' plug in fuses.

Are any particular vehicle types more recommended than the others?