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Today's update. The bumpers, rear and front have been painted Matt Black as have the grab handles all around and the insect grille. Once the top is changed to the Black top, the Jeep will loose its Military look.

The brake work is done. Suspension will have to wait till I get the Rims and tyres on board. I will have to decide after that, whether i will have to remove or add a leaf in the rear or whether i need to camber the leaf spring for a bit of lift (if its advisable at all).

I go shopping tomorrow for Wurth, Rhino hooks and the dampening and waterproofing sheets. Also will work on the Roll cage design and within the week have to get all this stuff worked out.

Re the roll cage i have been pondering whether the MM really needs a frontal roll cage. I am 60-50 on the not needed v/s needed. Will decide in a few days.

Then i will take on any electrical fittings and the ICE:D

Any suggestions are welcome on a platter.

I dont have the electrical fan for my ac install. Works fine without it. Have done Pune and back with ac on no problem. Gauge goes to 90 while climbing but pretty much stays there. Fit an additional fan only if you have to

Yup thats what even my mechanic told me. Will check and do appropriately buit since the condenser will be housed in front of the radiator, we might need a fan there else it will block a good part of the radiator.

Rohit, what do you advise regarding the dampening and rust protection? I am going to spray Wurth on the underbody as said above. What about in the tub floor and sides? Or should i spray Wurth and then stick that sticky sheet thingy or just Wurth (is Wurth a good sound dampener too?) of just the stick sheet?... And in the Bonnet? I want a cost effective solution to make the sound levels as less as i can without compromising anything.

I want the rust problem, usually present in Jeeps be solved. Where can i source it from?

First I must warn you that any dampening that you try to do will not be very effective from a sound point of view. Jeeps are inherently holey and open and noise will be there, no matter what you do. I did a sound and vibration barrier on the previous Jeep. Most expensive if you buy it in the market (I got it as a sample) but ok performance

To damp vibration from the doors and body panels you will need a bitumastic damper sheet (the kind they use on professional audio installs). Again very expensive and to be used selectively

For the rest of the panels PE foam is fine or even nitrile rubber. Give me a shout and come over today. I will take out some stuff for you. Or come to Steiger's i have a lot more samples stashed there

Any panel that has a slope you can stick insulation. I would not stick anything to the floor. Put loose tiles if you must. Sticking will ensure the fastest route to rusting no matter what rust proofer you use

Wurth is very good under body. Steiger does his every monsoon

For the tub and floor, you may consider POR15. Will give you some more dope on it when we meet

Cheers

Ro

Fantastic Rohit. Expect to hear from me today. Ill see you at Steiger's after fixing a time with you.

I have a pair of used lamda FWH leme know if you need em . You will need to get the inside U clamps :)

Yessir i need them!! I also need to come and visit you to take advise and see your Jeep. Maybe tomorrow? Sanjay and me have fixed tomorrow to go for the tow rope and tackles maybe we can fix a time today so we can meet.

Heres the engine starting video after the pump and nossle job. Result, cleaner running engine sans hunting/missing, very smooth running, no smoke at all.

YouTube - ‪MM550 engine starting.mp4‬‏

Sure come anytime.
Sanjay and me plan on testing the jeeps this saturday or sunday you can join us

Hi V-16,

Beautiful progress going on I must say, Congrats. Good thing u have installed power steering in your Jeep.. I think my Jeep has got the exact same engine as yours just that (I found out from your posts) the oil cooler is missing and I'm thinking I should get mine installed too. Can you please share in detail with more pics regarding the power steering setup. How different is this from the other (Koyo) setup. Is it simpler or more complicated? The thing is I want to get my steering powered too, and I want it to be as simple as possible with not much alterations. I'm still trying to learn as much as I can. I'm sure you are going to have loads and loads of fun with your Beast as soon as Its all completed.

Great, im game. Ill be in touch with you guys.

Johannes, i was not aware of the oil cooler too until my mechanic pointed it out when i inquired what that contraption was and why it wasnt connected to anything.:D

My power steering is straight out of a Bolero GLX. You will find in my earlier posts and will be able to see the Donor car too. The whole Box and pump with fittings was removed and fitted onto the MM. I changes whatever little bushes and pipes which needed to be changed as they were old. Nothing else. Because of the dynamics, the contraption has to be mounted on the bumper (same as in Koyo). The guy who did the install is an expert on installing power steerings and advised me to fit the one from the Bolero as it will match perfectly, being from a M&M vehicle. The other options were a set up from the Sumo (i dont know if that would be a Koyo). This one is a Rane and parts are easily available. I have an extra Koyo lying with me which i had initially purchased for the CJ but dropped the idea.

I have had to cut away a bit of the bumper to fit it in. This was because i wanted it flush with the bumper, else it would sit ugly on the bumper like an eyesore. Also i didnt want to cancel the balance rod set up. The challenge was to have a flush fit, not to disturb the balance rod and also position it as such that the bolts would not disturb the Chassis number embossed on the front bumper extension. Thankfully all was achieved, Thats whet happens when one goes to a mechanic whos been working with similar vehicles in the past. had it been someone else or maybe even my own mechanic, im sure he would have punched the holes through the chassis number for the holding bolts.

The Chassis number finishes where his index finger is and note the hole of the bolt is beyond that



Note the bolt is attached much before the Chassis number stamp



The PS Oil container mounted. P.S. The relay/cutout will be relocated on the Firewall once the Nitrile insulation is done.





The Sumo set up costs about 5k less but this is worth it, trust me. Also it was done in 24 hours flat. I guess this should be simpler as the Mechanic suggested it. In Anyways i had to go for a PS setup coz im going to run 15" 31X10.5 tyres which will be a pain to drive with during OTRs or even while parking.

More pics for you to see. It has all been painted matte black since then with the bumper so cannot be seen from a distance. These are pics taken earlier. Planning to fabricate a checkered plate cover held with butterfly nuts (for serviceability and ease in removing and refitting) running through the full front section between the bumper sections to look like a winch plate pad, which is found in modern day M&Ms. Only mine will be without a logo or maybe with a Jeep Logo. Even the battery container will be getting a Wurth treatment.

Will post recent pics tomorrow with all blackened parts to rid the Military look.

Need some pics of the radiator cross member with the cut out portion for the steering rod connecting rod (whats the name?) need to see how clean that job is.

Praaji, are all the mountings of the Power steering set-up in a "boxed" region? In Bolero the setup is completely boxed.

Spike

Stay away from the Sumo setup. I suffered with the sumo box and had to throw it away.

Sure thing. Ill post some pics tomorrow. I was unable to go today as its raining heavily in Bombay. If it subsides, i may go, if not, i will refrain and visit tomorrow and take pics.

My Black Rock rims are stuck and will be received only on the 12th, till then i was hoping i could borrow 15" 8 or 8.5J rims from someone who may be having them spare, to enable me to mount my tyres and put them on the Jeep. In this way id come to know if there is anything to be done to the leaves (by adding or deleting a leaf) or if i need to go in for a shackle lift. I have therefore left the changing of the suspension bushes and checking the leaves till then. If someone can loan me the rims to fit my 10.5 x 31'', Maxxis tyres for checking the above attributes, id be really grateful. The thing is that i do not want to waste money by investing in another set of rims when my heart is set on the Black Rocks right from the day i saw them.

Within this week im planning the Roll cage too. Six point most probably. Will decide on receiving some more pics of the front cage (driver's side) bar floor mounting. New seats for the front and back and the top (after the roll cage) and finally the dampening and rust control. I was wondering if the Dinitrol treatment is enough or should i just get a Wurth job done or both (for the under body and engine bay)

Awaiting more advice on the above from all of you gurus and others too.