Speakers: Components vs Coaxials

DerAlte · 2nd July 2007, 11:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

Somthing like this would suit tsk's palate very well

@B&T-bhai, how much would that cost?
-Power W6
-Power M6
-Pro 6MI
-Pro 65ND

Bass&Trouble · 2nd July 2007, 11:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte

@B&T-bhai, how much would that cost?
-Power W6
-Power M6
-Pro 6MI
-Pro 65ND

The M6 must be about 10k for a pair, The Pro 6/ 65 must be 5-6k a pair. Not sure.

santosh.s · 2nd July 2007, 12:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Relative, mon ami. @LBM has achieved the same by delaying the >60Hz part.

Yeah, I got him right and that is to be expected also (presuming ">60Hz" means greater than 60Hz). That is why the question- will phase control in sub be of any use given that it will be located (in the boot) farther than main speakers?

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin

All XOs have a phase as well as a roll off (freq.) response. Even 1st order "phase coherent" XOs have a phase response.

No two words.

Quote:

I have never bothered to implement a passive ladder network in a speaker crossover but prefer to do so at the line level instead (the disadvantage is that each driver needs it's own amplifier).

I don't want to go to that extreme (active system) due to cost/complexity, at least not for now. All I am looking for is the best "commercial" component pair I can have within my affordability (About Rs. 10K). And I feel this Alpine XO should be better than usual fixed ones. BTW, the Polk momo that I had mentioned somewhere else also has some relative phase control between woofer and tweeter, but it is more crude, not flexible to this extent.

DerAlte · 2nd July 2007, 12:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin

Der Alte, the bass blocker will also let you play the front speakers louder, but you already knew that didn't you.

That's what I was doing earlier, with a slight rearwards setting of the fader to get some LF from the rear coaxes.

@B&T's comment earlier on Safari's drivers had got me thinking, and I wanted to try out what they were capable of without the blockers - before changing drivers and putting in amps. The current stock HU-driver combo goes whoop-whump-whoop for <150Hz beyond level 24 (max is 40) on the Blau HU.

navin · 2nd July 2007, 13:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by santosh.s

I don't want to go to that extreme (active system) due to cost/complexity, at least not for now..

no I am doing this for home audio.

i'd never try to do this for car audio today. there is too much goingon in my car for me to concentrt on music and appreciate this effort.

DerAlte · 2nd July 2007, 13:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin

there is too much goingon in my car for me to concentrt on music and appreciate this effort.

OT: That was rather enigmatic.
What do you do in your car?

Or is it someone else doing something else in your car that is distracting you?
Ambiguity in English language expressions can be really dangerously hilarious.

navin · 2nd July 2007, 14:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte

OT: That was rather enigmatic.
What do you do in your car?

Ambiguity in English language expressions can be really dangerously hilarious.

Der Alte, you are old enoughto read betwen the lines.

BTW when we travel (as a family) we usually have more thn one conversation going. so that is what I was refering to. No wonder "they" call you the Dirty Old man.

DerAlte · 2nd July 2007, 14:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin

Der Alte, you are old enoughto read betwen the lines.

BTW when we travel (as a family) we usually have more thn one conversation going. so that is what I was refering to. No wonder "they" call you the Dirty Old man.

All in jest, sire. Et tu, brutus! My thoughts had been on the same lines as you described - you have said earler that you have a driver, so other situations are unlikely.

low_bass_makker · 2nd July 2007, 15:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by santosh.s

sub which has continuous phase control

ya i think it will help...

when I had not done the time alignment there was a very huge dip in sound major the midbass freq... when I am sitting with my back resting the seat and when I move a bit further

there was a huge difference.but now since the TA is done there is no dips observed...the above was caused because the midbass and the sub were canceling some ofthe freq but i think the phase control can help us here also....

gautamballal · 18th July 2007, 00:13

if u r on a budget get components for the front cheap but good components
would be boston (around 5000 ) slightly higer budget u would get rockford fosgate , focus , jbl and so on would suggest u go in for components for the front and decent Coaxial speakers at the back accoding to your budget

Sam Kapasi · 18th July 2007, 03:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by gautamballal

if u r on a budget get components for the front cheap but good components
would be boston (around 5000 ) slightly higer budget u would get rockford fosgate , focus , jbl and so on would suggest u go in for components for the front and decent Coaxial speakers at the back accoding to your budget

Hi Gautam,

Interesting advice, but who to? If you're answering the first post in this thread, he asked that question a little over 2 years ago.
Since then he's moderated 12020 posts, got married, got 980 new white hair and is now my good friend.

navin · 18th July 2007, 09:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

Since then he's moderated 12020 posts, got married, got 980 new white hair and is now my good friend.

and he got a new Double DIN Clarion HU!

EatMyDust · 18th July 2007, 10:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunbir

Thats why a component is a necessary compromise and proper installation is important to maximize the capability of the product.

I'd like to see some pictures of proper and neat component installations in the front and back.

I think installation of the tweeters is tricky if the car doesn't have any tweeter pods. I'd prefer the tweeters to be concealed nicely out of sight and not just jut out of the dash (or stuck on the dash using Araldite lol) or the pillars.

low_bass_makker · 18th July 2007, 10:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by EatMyDust

I think installation of the tweeters is tricky if the car doesn't have any tweeter pods. I'd prefer the tweeters to be concealed nicely out of sight and not just jut out of the dash (or stuck on the dash using Araldite lol) or the pillars.

Ya tweeter come with there pods. with flush and base mounting as a standard ones...and Please don't use Araldite for the job. Instead use the double side adhesive tape.

PatienceWins · 18th July 2007, 22:42

Hi,

I planning to put component speakers in the front with amp.
Is it alright if I move the front speakers to the rear doors?
I have co axials at the rear, behind the seats?

18th July 2007, 00:13	#130
gautamballal BHPian Join Date: May 2007 Location: Chennai-Bangalore-Mangalore Posts: 77 Thanked: 0 Times View My Garage	if u r on a budget get components for the front cheap but good components would be boston (around 5000 ) slightly higer budget u would get rockford fosgate , focus , jbl and so on would suggest u go in for components for the front and decent Coaxial speakers at the back accoding to your budget
	() Thanks

18th July 2007, 22:42	#135
PatienceWins Senior - BHPian Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bangalore Posts: 2,416 Thanked: 809 Times View My Garage	Hi, I planning to put component speakers in the front with amp. Is it alright if I move the front speakers to the rear doors? I have co axials at the rear, behind the seats?
	() Thanks